vfrcapn

Here's an improvised spring puller: http://gritzstudio.com/strom/spring_puller.jpg

You can use a length of wiring folded in half, the ends twisted together in to a handle shape. Wear gloves and eye protection!

04-05 R1, That's what I got.

929/954 Triples

Custom Axle

Nice looking bike.

capn, You can see the switch clusters come darn close to the tank.

The closest point of the switch cluster gets about 1/4" from the tank.

Those pics are full lock. There is room for your hands, no sweat.

Don't forget the shim on the left.

Looks good, clearance is about the same as my risers but they're much further forward, yours look a lot more comfortable.

SP1 lower triple is '00-'01 IIRC.

Looks great. Could I trouble you for a picture of the bars lock to lock, how close are they to the tank? I like my riser clipons but they've always felt very narrow and this could be a good solution.

Nice looking bike, if I could afford one it would be my commuter.

Will be interesting to see how this turns out. I picked up a used motor this weekend to swap in to my bike and am starting to think about rebuilding the original 85K motor. It would be a long term project but not as long as DD would take. I'll have to see about swapping 49 state cams in to a CA motor with ECU swap and addition of a PC.

Jim, are you doing anything with the pistons, rebore or new rings? I'd guess being such a low mileage motor it's still fresh.

Too bad the centerstands can't be made to come off and on the other gen bikes as they do on the 4th gen. It takes me just a few seconds to slip it on and off my 4th gen to do maintenance on the bike, so I never really missed the centerstand since I took it off many years ago.... Maybe someone can figure out a way to make it similarly easy to take it on and off different VFR gens?? Could be a very worthwhile project for someone to take on,especailly for those who really do not use their ceterstands when away from their garages........

Beck

95 VFR

I have mine like that. ('99) Removing the right bolt is the issue with header clearance. You can tap the bolt hole all the way through the mount to the center of the bike, then insert the right centerstand bolt from the center of the bike out. IIRC, the mount is threaded all the way through just rough on the inside, I ran a sacrificial bolt through to clean up the thread. I used some all thread with double nut on the inside and a single nut on the outside. On and off in a few minutes.

I just picked up the Bosch 3323. (thanks for the thread btw, looked this up while sitting in the auto parts store parking lot.) They had the Mobil 1 filters at about twice the price of the Bosch, anyone have an opinion on why I would pay $12 for the Mobil vs. $6 for the same size Bosch?

Don't hate me for asking this but I just got back from Wally world and saw a new fram oil filter. Called ultra it has metal screening wrapped in syn fiber. I know there are a lot of fram haters out there, but I've tried a different one with each change I've done. Yes even a 1st gen Fram. Now I've used fram on my car and trucks and never had an issue. By the way it was 8.97+ tax. Thoughts.

I use the Fram ultra filter, or the Fram standard, depends if the auto store has it on the shelf. Like Bailey said 4 years ago(!?!), anything will work sufficiently if you replace it at the specified intervals. I've stuck with Fram on my bikes and autos since '89, no blown engines yet.

Found Veefer's pics and video, looks...tempting!

Got mine yesterday!

Started it last night, but it'll be a few more days til the pressure plate is finished at the P/C shop.

Got any pics of the finished install?

As Monk said, it's the switchgear that is fixed by the drilled hole. You can rotate the levers until they hit something.

Looks good even though the 6/19 post was written in ancient Greek.

It's done and I love the results. Still great handling in a much more comfortable position. Throttle works well except at the extreme end of turns. That can probably be worked out with time and patience. Total cost was in the $150 ballpark. Great deal when compared to Helibars, etc.

Pics?

Well, I got the center from Thurn last week and finally got around to putting it on. Looks good, I think anyway.

Looks great, going to cost me $300 though as I really want the red powdercoated wheels now with that center plug!

pics for anyone unable or uninterested in YouTube

Wow, incredible job and it looks fantastic!

RC51 forks on a 1999 VFR800. No, I would not switch back.

The longer trail due to the RC51 triples different offset makes the bike steer slower (all else being equal) but on my bike, the front end is slightly lower than stock, and the rear end, I raised up, plus the handlebars are wider for more leverage, so it pretty much cancels that effect right out.

The brakes are absolutely stupid, and the ride quality and adjustability are far better than the standard VFR boingers. I added an Ohlins rear shock, courtesy of a VFRd member, and the transformation is complete.

I did the same conversion and +1 to Veefer's comments. Offset of the new triples should not be disregarded as it is going to have the single biggest impact on trail which determines turn in. Lowering the front and raising the rear gives a different effective steering angle which can mostly offset the increased trail. I'm happy enough with the conversion and would do it again for the reasons Veefer stated. Good luck!

...after the creator no longer has need for them.

You lost me right there....How would I no longer have a need for it?

Looking at the second pic, I don't see why a flat 954 lower wouldn't work just as well as the SP1 lower?

I thought this may be the reason, when using SP forks.

Looks to have "better" adjustability with the gullwing.

Yep, good point, missed that.

I used M8 grade 12.9 allen head bolts. Drilled and threaded all the way through the upper triple, then threaded the bolts in with locking nuts to secure, plus some blue locktite.

If I was to do it over Veefer's approach is how I'd probably do it, better than my method.

I made up some aluminum stops:

I know they'll be worthless in a crash but they do work as stops to keep the bars from hitting the tank or pinning my thumbs against the tank. If I had to machine them over I'd use steel, one did break and I remade it a little beefier. It's been good for a few years now.

Looking at the second pic, I don't see why a flat 954 lower wouldn't work just as well as the SP1 lower?

Some good info to go on here folks, thanks.

I had thought the 51 forks had a bulge where the lower clamps to it, but it doesn't.

My upper came with a plastic ignition shroud also.

Looks easy to cut and fit.

Back to looking for SP1 lowers and those Showa stickers.

Bloody price went up on these new, the other week.

vfrcapn, did you manage to change your seals?

I just got the bushings today, planning to start tearing it down tonight if I can get the energy. I'll post up up a pic by tomorrow hopefully, have to have this done by Saturday morning for a weekend ride.

I read the 954/929 flat lower has clearance issues with the frame or other parts so I went with the recommended gullwing SP1 lower on my 5G. I think I also read the RC51 flat upper wouldn't leave enough fork showing for clip-ons, so I went with the suggested gullwing 954 upper. I'll have the forks off this week for new seals and can take pics of the lower clearance issues if needed.

IMG 0305

Pure art, nice.

Looks great!