vfrcapn

The larger RC51/929/954 triples with the 54/50mm USD forks are extremely close to fouling the inner fairings throughout their rotation and even when pointing straight ahead.

Mine don't rub, but they're awful close. ][

One might be able to forego running the black inner fairing pieces (talking 5th gen here) down where the lower triple is, but I'm not sure how much room that would gain you, I've never investigated.

Mine did rub for whatever reason so I removed the inner fairing. There's all kinds of room now, you can reach in and change the turn signal bulbs, unplug your coil wires if you want, carry a lunch, store a cat or small dog...

Cool, I thought you were going to say you got these, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=190141989370

So, who's the winner?

Nice clean install. :thumbsup: I modded a Chamberlin remote similarly.

If you bought a 1092-74 or 1092-79 PM me, I'll take it off your hands.

New values are 14.1V at 2500rpm, 13.8V at 5K rpm, a full 1V higher at all rpm's. I've never seen 14V at the battery before, ever. Running around yesterday with a lot of short trips, frequent starts and the battery seemed solid, no weakness. Battery is sitting at 12.8V volts now with the bike shut off. I'm cautiously optimistic this problem may be fixed! :thumbsup: (Although I'm going to hunt down a Yamaha rr just in case...)

Update: one week later and values are still the same. Battery still is at 12.8V while the bike is off. I haven't had to charge it and no problems the past week starting it up. Was really getting sick of "selfislhy wasting bandwidth" starting!

:thumbsup: to this wiring mod, thanks zam! :beer:

Here's the quick summary on my '99: did only step #3 and charging voltage at the battery went from shaky 13.1V (2500rpm) to solid 14.1V. I commoned the red-white wires coming out of the new style Honda rr using zam's recommended button hook method and also soldered it, then ran direct to the battery positive with a 30a fuse in the line.

The background is my batteries have started dying sooner and sooner over the last few years. I was always able to charge them back up and they'd run for awhile but the top off charge would need to be more and more frequent. This was regardless of new/old battery. My current battery is 8 weeks old and was just about dead Sunday morning, for the second time. The Electrex/ElectroSport flow chart showed everything within specs other than the voltage at the battery, which would not go over 13.1V and was about 12.8V at idle.

New values are 14.1V at 2500rpm, 13.8V at 5K rpm, a full 1V higher at all rpm's. I've never seen 14V at the battery before, ever. Running around yesterday with a lot of short trips, frequent starts and the battery seemed solid, no weakness. Battery is sitting at 12.8V volts now with the bike shut off. I'm cautiously optimistic this problem may be fixed! :thumbsup: (Although I'm going to hunt down a Yamaha rr just in case...)

The rr connectors were getting very hot when I was letting it idle Sunday, now the power/ground plug shows no sign of heat build at all. The stator plug is still getting very hot but it seems to be isolated to the connector itself, the wires a couple inches away on either side were not particularly hot. It would seem the connector has some major resistance? I'm thinking it needs to be rewired and the stator wires upgraded? I've cleaned the connectors and they seem about as good as they're going to get.

edit: I think swas answered my queston in the previous post. Time for new stator plug...

Very nice!

Microns rule! :thumbsup:

well. I dont want to bite your thread, but I got my carbon look gsxr mirrors in yesterday, and well, to say the least, they aren't going on as easy as yours did for a 5th gen. oh, and the the wireing was the easy part. since i needed mirrors badly, I used the stock mounts and some bolts to secure them for a temp fix, but it looks like "monster Garage" not too ugly, but not smooth either. the wiring is 2 wire on the mirrors and 3 wire on the bike. very simple to solve, use i diode on both of the wires9 running and turn signal, and there you have it. I am getting some plexi next wekk, and I am going to make some better mounts( maybe even relocate my foglamps too) once I get it all cleaned up, I will def post it up. right now the mirrors are too high up, they need to be angled down to look better/be wider. oh well, it beats a broken mirror!!

I'm very interested too..post up some pics, maybe we can get BLS to machine up some adapters/extenders to mount them nicely. Can use my bike as model..

Gaaaa!! All this talk has got me wanting to farkle again. I'm thinking of having a go at wiring it through the headlight flasher, and powering it from the bike's battery rather than an internal one.

By the way - this isn't my idea, so I can't take credit for it. I copied someone else's initial idea, but just did it slightly differently.

I got it working through the high beams. The contacts in my remote acted only momentarily when the button is pressed - the door doesn't continuously open and close if you hold the button down. I assume that's built in the circuitry. I took the two leads from the contact switch straight to a relay which is triggered off the high beam circuit. Even if you run with high beams it's only going to momentarily activate the opener remote.

HELP!

I am putting my front end back together and have searched the site exhaustively. Does anyone know of the existence of a formula for determining the correct lenght for the spring spacer after a complete overhaul of the front end?

I am thinking it should be something like stock free spring length and new free spring lenght differential to find the additional lenght to add for the new spacer length. This does not take into account the difference in spring rates.

I went from stock rate to .95 kg straight rate.

Are these Racetech springs? The advice they gave me was start with new free spring/spacer length same as stock free spring/spacer length. WAY to much, felt like I was pointed at the sky. Starting with that though I progressively ended up taking off 10mm, 10mm and 5mm from the spacer, and felt it probably could have gone a little more. This was a 5th gen and their .95 springs. If you have the extra AL spacer tube or can get more that may be a starting point. Pulling the spacer out takes just a few minutes if you need to cut more down. HTH..

Very sorry about the bike but glad you are ok. The machining is incredible, post up pics of your next project!

Aftermarket gsxr mirrors with the signals seem pretty cheap on ebay, I thought I had seen them for less than $50/set?

Anyone got any idea on the measurement of bolt to bolt of these gsxr mirrors? Are these the same as Safe-T used?

I'm not sure on the GSXR mirror's bolt dimensions but Safe-T used the Aprilia RSVR mirrors, pic here: http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/pro...?idproduct=2662. The Aprilia bolt dimensions are a little narrower than the VFR's but I think Safe-T covered that. I have one I'm working with now, needs a mounting spacer to move the mirror out a little and put it at a more useful angle.

Thanks guys! Hope this helps you out if you're looking to do it! Like I said, would look great with these:

Looks great. :thumbsup:

Aftermarket gsxr mirrors with the signals seem pretty cheap on ebay, I thought I had seen them for less than $50/set?

I just put the RC51 front end on ('99 VFR) and decided to make up some steering stops. These probably wouldn't survive a crash but they keep my dash from becoming even more scratched up than it is. The L shape is so the hole drilled through the triple misses the underside rib.

English please....Is there a place to buy them here in the states?

You can get them through eBay, http://stores.ebay.com/THURN-MOTORSPORT.

I've been eyeing them myself. I will say, Aprilia RSVR mirrors >don't< fit the 5G... :schla15:

Cool, nice job on the undertray.

Mine will look a lot better after it's been ceramic coated.

Looks like you moved the ECU to the RH side of the bike.

I might have to see if I have room for that.

Thanks, I was inspired by your project to go buy a riveter and on adding the side panels. The tray itself is the basic shape and mount points from the Wolf kit.

I didn't have room left to fit the ECU under the seat and there's really no where to mount it on the left that I saw. The upside is I do have enough room now to get the tool and flat kits under the seat.

Mike

Here's some pics. I picked up the Wolf pipe a few weeks ago on eBay, without the underseat tray which I had to make from scratch.

I like the idea on the ceramic coated aluminum tray. I still have a roll of carbon and may try using my aluminum tray as a template to make one from CF once the temps warm up. Heat management is the real problem with this set up, I'm thinking a thin aluminum or carbon heat shield between the pipe and tray/battery box may be needed.

As Jim mentioned below we're working through some details to get the Wolf pipes duplicated. it's going to be at least a few more weeks but hoping to have more info soon, holidays put everything on hold.

Happy new year! :biggrin: