Jump to content

vfrcapn

Member Contributer
  • Posts

    2,265
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    27

Posts posted by vfrcapn

  1. Stephen, believe it or not, I'm going to use the stock footpegs(for now), since my wife is really looking forward to riding on a VF again. I also have a "B side" version of the bike in mind that will use adapter plates and modern rearsets, coupled with mid-mount exhausts. :blink:

    I know you've gotta have some machining equipment around, why not make an adapter to fit modern pegs? I really like the stock pegs on my CBR600F4i, they have a nice look & feel, and still have the rubber on top that you don't get anymore with a lot of the newer bikes. :rolleyes:

    I got BLS's peg lowering locks fitted to my 1KR, I'd bet they'd fit on the 750 too and then you can use the VFR or CBR pegs, if that's what you're looking for.

  2. I went to see Scott at Blueguages.com for the same reason. Coupled with the reflection off the windscreen, it's distracting at the least. My brother, who flies, said the best color is red or orange so I went with that for the overall guage color.

    Then I changed out the blue for high beam to violet.

    I only had this picture without the high beam light on.

    DSCF1899.jpg

    Greg :rolleyes:

    I gotta ask why you store your VFR in a large frig? Or was the air temp sensor just on the blink?

    :blink: :biggrin:

  3. How are you doing with your R? I'm still eager to know how your front end works out(wheel & brake alignment).

    All the pressure, let's see you install two forks, a wheel and two calipers in less than 2 months!! :laugh: :huh:

    :beer: :goofy:

    I have the wheel on and the left caliper, they're all lined up ok, same as with the original forks. I'm using the same slimmed down right spacer, took about half the width off Jamie's original dimensions (~5mm down to about 3mm I think?). I think I'll have the same issue with the right caliper alignment, need to take some material (~2mm) off the mount on the fork or the caliper bracket to get it lined up. I'd be further along but all the brake parts were pretty cruddy and needed cleaning. That bit of anal retentiveness is your fault for posting such nice pics of your super clean build. wink.gif :blink:

  4. Just to be clear, I think the intention was:

    is the locating pin straight, (inline) with the handlebar (not the upper triple).

    or is the locating pin offset from the handlebar.

    Some of the responses seem vague.

    If you look at the pics above ...on the right clip on....mine is the one on the right....I have a 2000

    So that is what I would consider offset

    The one on the right here would be the "straight" one in the poll I believe. It's inline with the bar. BR, correct me if this is wrong.

    5thgenbars001.jpg

  5. Just to be clear, I think the intention was:

    is the locating pin straight, (inline) with the handlebar (not the upper triple).

    or is the locating pin offset from the handlebar.

    Some of the responses seem vague.

  6. It's from a 1998 VFR800. The part that looks like a choke lever is a "fast idle" lever on that bike, it was fuel injected but had a manual fast idle. And yes, the reason I chose to use that part was because of the modern controls, and the retention of the choke lever. The VF choke cable swaps right in.

    And, I am going to try Capn's throttle. If I don't like it, it's all yours! :fing02:

    I'm using the same left switch gear on my '86 1000. Hope the throttle works!

  7. Nice electrical but good grief that's a lot of work, cut & splice for me. :mad:

    Seb, here's a pic. Was 'told' this is the DK 1/6 turn, I don't see any markings and can't verify it but it came from a track bike rental shop owner. I assume the cable slot diameter is slightly larger than OEM, but I don't have an original to compare.

    IMG_6401Medium.jpg

    IMG_6402Medium.jpg

  8. Ok, left side pod is done, reassembled and all. The 1000RR start/kill switch(same as 900RR) looked daunting at first, but is actually going to be easier. I was thrown at first by the extra wire in the VF start button, but now that I have the differences in the switch figured out, it's going to be easy. All I have to do is cut the harness plug off the 1000RR switch, add 9" of wire(stolen from a rashed up CBR switch, which all the same color wires!), and then reinsert the pins into the proper slots in the VF plug.

    I'm proud of myself for getting over that hump! No really, I'm pretty damn pleased! Just one more hurdle - the fuse box. I'm wiring in an F4i unit, and it also has to find a new home behind the front fairing.

    I'm going to test the newly configured switches at motorhead's house on Sunday... cross your fingers for me!

    I have new pics, of course, and they will be up tomorrow. :biggrin:

    Looking good so far, Bailey is right, looks like it just came off the showroom floor.

    I've got a Dan Kyle 1/6 turn throttle originally for a RC51, I think it would mate up to the 600 switch gear? If you want it PM me, not sure if it needs a different length cable or not. Looking to get rid of it.

  9. Looks great, good to see that first kit out there and installed. It really looks like a nice set up, very well done.

    BTW, not sure what the issue is but the image post doesn't seem to work in this thread? Tried to post from my galley also and just getting the html tags.

  10. What kind of sleeping bag do you have? And do you use a ground pad? (Ok, I'm a rookie camper) I have a compack Eureka tent, but the sleeping bag and pad take up a bunch of space.

    MD

    I got the Big Agnes Encampment long bag, +15 degrees. http://www.bigagnes.com/Products/Detail/Bag/Encampment Picked it up at REI for 20% off. The difference with Big Agnes is they have no insulation on the bottom, just a sleeve for a pad, 20" wide for this one. I picked up the 1.75" REI pad, same design as the Thermarest. I've also read the 2.5" pads are very nice but the 1.75 worked fine for me. The pad provides the insulation between you and the ground and being in a sleeve on the bottom of the bag you don't roll off of it. Seemed to work great for me. Has a built in pillow pocket, draft collar around the neck, zipper draft protection. I tried conventional mummy bags but they were too restricting for my tastes.

  11. Wow! Thanks for all the information and links. Saved me too much time of just searching tents.

    Appreciate the personal reviews. Ease of use and a small travel size, a vestibule, good rain protection & solid form are key.

    Liking to keep the price well below $100 as I'm not a big camper dude and it'll probably go into storage for the rest of the year once I get back.

    Plenty of research through those links to do.

    I'll have to find a light-medium bag to sleep in. Again, space saving on the bike is the thing. Also, I'll have to look at a cable lock,

    to lock the bike to the tent when done for the day.

    vfrcapn, I'm not exactly planned for where. A friend here has shown me picks of Utah that were quite cool.

    I was thinking New Mexico, Grand Canyon / Arizona, then working up through S. Cali, Oregon and back to BC.

    Minimum 2 weeks, maximum ?????

    I think the down bags will pack the smallest, I've read down to grapefruit size? My synthetic packs to about the size of 2 small cantelopes. Also looking for a cable lock, more for the hotel stays than camping.

    Looking at the Eureka tent Phormanluge mentions, I think those side entry types would be more convenient than the style I got with the end door, although I haven't tried them.

    Here's a possible route I was thinking (going clockwise), still changing it around though. Summit route

  12. I've searched the sight and found good reviews on the Kelty Grand Mesa 2, but at $200US it's a bit much for my meager plans.

    Any and all input appreciated.

    http://www.amazon.com/Kelty-Grand-Mesa-2-P...355&sr=1-21

    You may like the price for this model a little better on Amazon. Board member, vfrcapn, recently returned from a circuitous trip of the far western US using the Kelty Grand Mesa 2, and reports that it worked very well. Good value for money!

    What he said. :huh: I paid $125 at a local sporting goods store.

    Backpacker magazine has a whole product review issue this month if you're interested. They did pick the Kelty Gunnison 2.1 tent as the overall best buy in the 2 person category, based on price, performance, etc. http://www.amazon.com/Kelty-Gunnison-2-1-P...7877&sr=1-1

    I thought it seemed a little large packed up. The Mesa 2 packed in to a bag about 12" long and 6" diameter, minus the poles of course. The REI tents also got good reviews, along with a bunch more that are way out of my price range.

    Where you headed after the Summit? east, west, north, south?

  13. Really, the reason was to obtain more clearance between the hugger and the underseat exhaust.

    I already have shimmed my upper shock mount to the point that the leading bolt mount for the chainguard is almost hitting the LH footpeg bracket at full swingarm droop.

    Rob, how about putting in the shorter 4th gen dogbone, gains you a little over an inch rise in the tail, then remove some or all your shock shims to get it just where you want? I'm running the 4G db and 3 or 4mm of washers on top of the shock. 'course my centerstand is completely useless now.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.