spud786

So does anybody send in used oil samples to a lab for analysis?

I guess I'm a bit on the lazy side because I opted for the Mobil1 just so I wouldn't have to change the oil as often.

Dutch I did 2 samples back in the first 10,000 miles, I did about 5 oil changes in the first 6000 mile, that was with rotella syn. I was seeing alot of contaminant even at 1000 mile intervals, between 6 to 9 ,000 mile I did the samples, Amsoil 15w40 generated the same wear numbers as the Rotlella syn but amsoil had double the miles. Both were out of spec on viscosity and flash point 1100mile on rotella and 2000 on Amsoil, there was also some fuel dilution.

After about 10 or 15,000 mile My oil started holding up alot better, I havent felt the need to retest.

I just wanted to see what the analisys said versus my eyeball on my oil dumps.

Something like a Mobil 1 motorcycle oil is about the only thing I'd run near 3k+. Mostly I do around 1,500 /2000 miles on the diesils, I can change the diesils 3 to 4 times for the cost, and the engine stays flushed out better.

The problem is more the level of metal that builds up in time in your oil, it scrubs on everything, including clutch plates.

Electrical tape on the bar to keep the bar from drawing off heats sounds good on paper but the tape will not be able to withstand the heat and soon will be sliding all over the place when in use, the heat just emulsifies the glue.

Yup, that was my think'n.

I think the grips will be coming back off for install adjustment, If the heaters will melt gell, what chance does electrical tape stand

I'm tempted to crack open my airbox to look at the stacks.

The velocity stacks are designed to give each runner the same length. All modern engines are this way, same for intake manifolds and exhaust headers. Thats why we have spaghetti exhaust plumbing.

Edit,

It is very good advice about the battery and very intriging. I see honda autos that start a little slow but still start. The abs or srs light will be on with many control unit failure codes. A weak battery is the source of the problem 9 times out of 10.

I had my airbox lid off today and my bike has the tall's in the rear short's in the front.

K&N with 28k miles and an opened up airbix lid and the filter wasnt even dirty.

28,000 and not dirty, does that kind make ya wonder about the filtering?

Okay I just cjanged the spark plugs and airfilter in my 2006 model. didnt even pull a fairing or raise the rear of the tank. The front plugs are subseptible to dirt so blow out well with compressed air, the rear plugs are kept much cleaner. all my plugs removed looked like some slight wear but the gaps were still in spec at 27,000+ mile. I think 35,000 is an easy, course my bike has been subjected to leaded race fuel which tend to clean everything pretty.

But the spark plug wells are like 2 feet Deep, okay not really, more like 7 inches deep, a magnet is a requirement, I couldnt believe how deep they wer though. disconnecting the direct coil connectors took alot of thought. They have a squeese release mechanism, pul too hard to pull apart. I used a large flat blade on the seam where the male female join , and slightly twist whle squeezing the release.

But the Velocity stacks, assuming all the airboxes are the same, its quite simple, the airbox bottom in the rear is much lower than in the front, the tall stacks go there where the bottom is deeper, in the front has a raise bottom so shorts go there. BY stalling this way all the tops of the stacks are the same height for smoth air flow across them, if you put the tall ones on the higher bottom and any low ones on the deeper bottom.

'

your just going to create alot of turbulance, and wont get smooth air flow.

my airfilter barely could get light through it

Update to my surging issue!!!!

After reading another post though, I switched my stacks to this configuration which seems to be how the manual depicts them and how they are installed at the factory.

Left Front: Short

Right Front: Tall

Left Rear: Tall

Right Rear: Short

Here is the thread: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...c=30771&hl=

I don’t know why this makes a difference, but it does seem to affect how the bike runs. So if you’re running the stacks as front/short and rear/tall, and are experiencing low speed high rpm surging, then I suggest trying the stacks in this configuration. It worked for me…

I believe that as the potential source of your problem, good for you finding it!

I've seen the "shorts in front talls in rear" recommendation before, but none of the half dozen factory Vtecs I've looked at had this config from the factory and I know Honda spent a lot of time setting up our air boxes! :thumbsup:

MY o6 vfrabs has both short ones in the front and both tall ones in the rear , they had never been touched from the factory

Oh come on , its riduculus to assume I got used to poor forming Toyota, I never had any fuel systems issues on that vehicle , all it ran was Exxon superunleaded. It may be hard for you to believe, but you replace fuel filters very frequently as a Maintence item whether it needs it or not.

But on that vehicle ,I put a timing belt on it, a battery, a distrubutor cap and rotor(80,000 mile spark plugs, and fann belts in 145,000 mile, it was actually in very mint condition.

My last bike I ran 40,000 mile with no fuel filter at all

Whats it matter though, unless the fliter clogs up or something there's no issue, but no I'm not replacing the fuel filter unless theres a reason to do so, and again if Honda Thought the Filter was good for only a certain time, they would put it in as a maintenance item.

But heck no I'm not replacing my 06 VFR fuel filter till theres a reason, 25,000 mile and counting.

Do I change the oil? more frequently than the filter, but oil and air contamination is much more an issue than fuel filter contamination as long as clean fuel substance is utilized.

Is there some sort of logical reason Honda would ever put the fuel filter inside the fuel tank?

The VFR fuel filter is a life time item unless somehow it gets contaminated, there's is no recommended replacement for it.

I wouldnt touch or replace it without good reason.

Life time filter??? How do you figure that? Why do they make replacement filters then? Its a pretty good idea to change it at least once every two or three years. If it clogs up you bike may run really lean and then it will run really hot...so I have heard. Will anyone else like to chime in on this Life time filter statement? :goofy:

Nothing in my manual related to fuel filter replacement, so I would think they made it large enough to handle it, unless its subjected to alot of contaminant. Like rust water or bad fuel stations

I had a toyaota I ran 145,000 mile on original fuel filter (but I traded the vehicle which was still fine), as long as it it doesnt get contaminated, its a life time item

Is there some sort of logical reason Honda would ever put the fuel filter inside the fuel tank?

The VFR fuel filter is a life time item unless somehow it gets contaminated, there's is no recommended replacement for it.

I wouldnt touch or replace it without good reason.

Well here's version 1 of a simple bracket to move the pegs 1 inch up and 1 inch back. Had to remove the heat shield entirely. If anyone has a used one I'd love to buy it so I can cut it to fit. The main thing I noticed was how much easier my legs "locked" around the tank and how hot my ankle was getting without that heat shield. I made .5" holes as well, which you can see peeking out. Now I plan to take this contraption to a machine shop and get them to make it right, but as it, it feels solid with all my weight on the tip of either peg, not much flex. The rear brake line to the reservoir is bent tight, but does not completely block the flow. I can't see going back any further or the rear brake "hinge" would rub the shiny exhaust shield.

my knees used to ride near the frame, quite uncomfortable on your knees, once I raised the seat height , my legs are more around the tank, its completely did away with sportbike leg crunch.

If I ever get an aftermarket seat , I'l have it custom built a few inches taller

The gold valve orifice is very open and requires the proper shim stack to slow the oil flow, if you open your stock valve up utilizing stock shim stack, might as well go ahead and throw it in the trash now.

I have been having lots of problems tring to figure out what is wrong with my charging system. Thought it was the RR, wasn't. Thought it was the battery, wasn't. Thought it was the wiring, wasn't. Thought it was the stator, wasn't ..................... But wait, maybe it is.

Lets get all the facts on the table.

Battery Voltage = 12.3v

Charging voltage at Idle = 13.2v

Charging voltage at 5k rpm = 12.1v and lower as time goes on.

Mr.RC45 shows the same voltages at the same rpms... I've gone through extensive trouble shoot procedures and even changed the R/R twice and stator once... no joy... I'm not so hot when it comes to electrics so I'm watching the thread... right now I can't go 3 days without a external charge... it will just quit running...

I went riding today and now I have the same voltage readings.

I have 13.2 at idle, then voltage drop as RPM increases. It does seem to go back up to 12.7 when I reach 7000 RPM, but it is not steady.

I need to fix this as I find it dangerous paying too much attention to the voltage meter and not the ride.

I have replaced all three components last summer when I started having the clock reset to 12:00. :wheel:

you have weak readings try cleaning all your contacts from stator and from rec red wire to battery and black ground wire,

When i had my epiphany about the wiring last weekend, i didn't mention something because most people don't have one.

There is a device called a megger, this an ohm meter that outputs high voltage and alot more current than a simple multimeter. The multimeter is fine for 90% of checking, the megger will help to find bad continuity where a multimeter will not.

I would venture to say it is still a wiring issue, unless you have soldered all connections and totally cleaned your grounds.

I check my connections occasionally also, like you said you can loose 1/2 volt very easy with bad connection. I ran a charge test yesterday as a normal maintenance probe. Battery at 13.2volt, running at 1500 rpm 14.77volt

That looks good

Resistance between all 3 legs of the stator = 0.3 - 0.4 ohm

is that correct , i was thiking it should be more like 1kohm between the wires, but I could be wrong

if you charge the battery will it charge to 13 volt , and sitting idle for couple hours still hold above 12.7, if it wont that's a weak battery

Since this is a bit of an evergreen topic, I thought I'd post an inexpensive fixit for the stupid fairing clips.

I got these rather robust clips from my local NAPA outlet, 10 to a pack for 7 bucks.

Picture 009.jpg

They are larger then the stock Honda clips and require you to slightly enlarge the mounting holes by using a slightly larger drill bit and turning it by hand through the fairing holes. Don't use a drill, not required. Try 1 size larger, test the new clip and if it's still too tight, try 1 size larger still.

Here's a lineup of the crappy broken Honda clip, an intact one, and the NAPA one:

Picture 011.jpg

you know the 2 bottom fairing joints prt #45612 body tight fastener at pepboys works great, push button type can be used easily many times, They are like $1 for 2 . They only fit the bottom though cause of the clearance. But they are so simple and easy to operate it's the only choice for the bottom fairing joint IMO.

In the Midwest you can find the Purolator at Advance Auto Parts.

I found the purulator MC specific at Pepboys, semi oring and everything, Indentical to Honda filter, $6

Local dealer charging 9.99 recently went to 11.99, That was too much