spud786

The lube I use is not legal for sale in California, so wouldn't do you any good. But you need something that will build a Heavy lasting film base on the sprocket teeth, if you can see the metal teeth, then the film base is inadequate to eliminate metal to metal contact. Also the lube needs to stay fluid, so all the little chain rollers spin freely, unlike waxes that clogg up the whole chain up.

Ive bought two cans of chain wax in my life, once in the 80's and once in the 2000's. I forgot Id bought the first can , but then remembered what crap it was. Still have both cans to this day.

Most cases the fronts do where faster than the rear, even though they are normally hardened steel, and that's why they are hardened steel to increase life. Rear steel sprockets are normally not Hardened steel in comparison, but last about 5 times longer than an aluminum, Actually, if you cut metal to metal contact of the sprocket teeth with heavy film strength, a steel rear may last near a lifetime. Normally the front will require more turn over. Your not going to beat the oem vfr sprockets life wise.

Even the cheapest 530 chain should be better than the best 520 or atleast on par. Its physically a weaker chain.

If the desire is life and reliability, you go with the Best top rated 530 and steel sprockets, any other view I rate as Foo Foo.

Ive ran 520 chains for more than 30 years, I know them well, and no fkn way would I install one on a vfr.

About half were out of spec (but well within tolerance),)))))

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Either they were out of spec or not, you cant have it both ways. and if you had a dealer do it, then you probably don't actually know what they were other than hearsay chatter.

Sounds more placebo effect to me. They'd have needed to be way out of spec to notice an improvement in operation.

Some day I may check my 110,000 mile vfr, but it runs strong as always , no degrade at all, and its routinely hammered with tight track, but I run a special fuel diet. The vfr is the only motor Ive not checked the valves on, cause #1 its not a known motor to have serious valve movement issues, especially utilizing the preventatives.

My other motors in the past, have been routinely checked cause they have shown a history on the model with movement, including my new ktm has been checked twice . in the first 30 hours of operation. where others have seen movement, Ive seen none, I give credit to my air filtering and fuel diet to achieve good long term valve life.

The shock is non serviceable, but some after market shops, will install a way to drain and refill it, if the preload has been disconnected your pretty screwed in using it , without modification to be able to service.

you have to put the screw in the top of the tensioner, or else it will do that. #12 plus the washer

Thank you. Totally spaced this one out. This is my problem.

How fast does it pour out, was this the front or the rear, just curious how much pressure the flow has? modded gasket or standard?

you have to put the screw in the top of the tensioner, or else it will do that. #12 plus the washer

once down below .08mm , then it gets iffy with valving being zero. But a lot of people freak if they find their valve at .2mm on the vfr ,even though its still in spec.

both my oems, surpassed well over 50,000 miles, 1st one 56000 mile at time of death. That's why I have a new one on hand ready to go, the second one is in that range.

^{Yeah , I guess your right on that point, as long as comparing to what's normal , when New.}

the wiring is supposed to be individually coated not all melted together like paint.

the vfr valves have plenty of room to zero. with .2mm as minimum spec, that's plenty of room below spec.

Now my KTM has a .1mm spec, that leaves not much room to zero, and why Ive checked those valves twice to ensure they are holding, where as the vfr I could care less, even though it has post 100,000 mile mileage.

VFRor, yours looks well on its way...

Here my (4th gen) with 50k miles on her; I could have continued with this one no problem

IMAG2863.jpg

IMAG2858.jpg

Looks totally melted just not burnt, its a short out at any moment

Im looking at comparison I don't see any improvement over oem, actually oem has better epoxy, plus connector already installed.

if swaying people from oem that offer the best life, that's okay, but Im just looking for the quality gain which is not in the pictures, Im sure the gary stator is usable for a period of time.

But in reality adding any of this leaded "race fuel" will not reduce wear or make any difference at all. Fun to think that it might though.

And Im sure your have the experience and the time, which I know is not fact.

So your opinion is a little pointless, but fine with me.

no you don't need or want a straight mixture, only enough to decarbonize and provide some top end lubrication benefit (it actually circulates throughout the motor), With a cat you definitely don't want anywhere near full strength, its too much for it to handle, just a cup or two per tank, and that really works across the board on any bike. The quality of the fuel makes a difference too, with end result.

By last uoa produced 4 ppm aluminum in 2500 mile oci, that's on a 110,000 mile vfr that hunts like a Cheetah.

Yeah that's what it looks like

Keep your eyes closed

the hardened valve seats nowadays rarely wear, the valves on the other hand, and lets not forget piston and cylinder itself. I don't want to post mine, they would only create envy.

Damn, you guys should run some leaded race fuel and cut down on all that wear.

Motorcycle super store is my typical with free shipping. plus you can research the tire information .

The line is steel braided, and I haven't moved this position of the line at all. It's been in the same OEM spot for 80+k miles. And this "dark fluid" thing has only been the last 2-3 oil changes. I'll order a slave cylinder seal kit and see how it goes and report back. Thanks for the ideas.

Generally, that black is from the internal rubber of your lines is breaking down.

It normally can be seen on brand new lines, for a short period of time, the fact your seeing it after 80,000 miles is more detrimental.

Braided steel lines is only on the outside, not the inside.

I spent $11 grand on a KTM dirtbike, the vfr has been getting weekly mercy rides as a result. I'll never rid the VFR its too valuable with High mileage and mint condition. But The KTM fills the itch for my exercise routine.

Thanks for the advice chaps. The VRF 1200 option is not on. Too heavy - I think they are carved from unobtanium or something. I think maybe swapping the master cylinder looks like the best bet - I read somewhere that someone fitted a Tuono set up.The current set up has been checked by my expert mechanic and he reckons it is as light as they get. So, maybe I'll hunt down an SP MC or look at the Aprillia alternative.

You know, its up to you, but I think that's an expensive pain in the A$$ risk, that will more than likely not bare fruit.

Don't discount the extreme rear ward sweep of stock clip-ons, having an effect . raise the clip-ons out of the detents and pivot forward alittle, see if that helps. This costs nothing to try, but changes the angles of squeeze and wrist position.

I still need to see that uoa. 2000 miles is not much if its a really good weight to run in a hard ridden vfr.

How are you judging thicker film strength???

I can pretty much guarantee, my 2 quarts of 10w40 and 1 quart 20w50(for longevity) is running thicker than your 0w30, Through out the motor including the transmission

I just wanted to see a UOA of a Hard ridden bike with significant mileage more than 2000 mile on the oci, with the 0w30 car oil.