spud786

Hard engine braking was only a problem my V4 posed to the pack of my

I4s friends... cammy hit I4s don't posses engine breaking to the

degree my V4 did... so as we would over take the slow movers my abrupt

engine braking after the pass would cause the I4 behind me to almost

harpoon me... they complained that the way my V4 slowed after I

chopped the throttle was like following a bike with a inoperative brake light...

I've noticed the same thing. My VFR engine brakes a lot harder the my ZRX did. Do you think it a VTEC thing? 8 valves instead of 16?

No its an I4 thing, less engine braking than a v motor. I use engine braking secondary to the brakes, never an issue with getting run over or closing the gap behind me. Cause I'm carrying alot of momentum and not excessively using engine rpm to slow, which the vfr will do cause it has alot of it.

I use it in coordination with the brakes, I think we got some difference in technique thats creating issue

Not knowing the particular scenario

Generally if I have somebody that is wanting to run faster than me and on my decel and they close the gap alot to where they are on the A$$, then they are indeed running faster than me, I'd probably move over and wave them on through.

If your turning off of high speed roads and needing to slow and turn off, I typically use a hearding speed techinque with some handle signals, well before turn off, that includes some brake flashing. A gradual slowing process

In stop and go trafiic I allow more distance to the front if someone is pressing their space cushion.

I'm not sure of the value of a decel tail light, and vfr tail light isnt that brite. So to your question, not something I would do, but I'm willing to watch the process.

What if I used a vacuum switch set real high, like 22+ inches, to make the brake light come on when you're under heavy engine braking? How about maybe just lighting 1 of the 2 bulbs? Would there be any thing wrong with doing this?

What is the purpose, if your using enough engine braking to were your going to get run over without brakes , I think you got to readress some issue.

You Note a critical issue with all this chain maintenance in the North. People in the deep south dont deal with salt and ice melting chemicals, I guess that makes it easier.

The Motorex 622 green holds up very well in all day rain and I had very marginal wear on cs at 53,000 mile , the real issue is all the road grit that needs to be cleaned off because of rain. For you its a push of a button or automatic, For me its a quick wd spray with a rag, not too bad at end of the day .

I have enjoyed the thread and sorry if viewed as a debate, I'm just seeing if all this money and time getting the oilers to function well is worth the effort.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q190/ho...t73/ironpig.jpg

When I had the chain on it for 20k kms Keny thought it was a bit to tight and we added some more slack to it. Now the chain is at 55k kms (34K mls) and it never needed adjustment or cleaning, stretch is less than 0.5%. I did replace the front sprocket 7K kms ago.

What do you typically get on other chains with VFR with no luber?

I think I'll write Pablo a note telling him how many people are finding the pre-set or suggested flow schedule to be too rich. After moving my pro-oiler from my 650R (where I had zero chain adjustments or cleaning in 14k miles) I found the suggested setting too rich for my VFR. Currently I am using 20/3 setting and that may be a little lean for commuting. NFW will I ever go back to the clean/lube routine pre pro-oiler.

Who has seen big life chain life improvement?

Swimmers 14,000 mile on a Honda 650 R offroad bike , which i assume was dual sported . no ajustment till 14,000 mile. Thats very good.

I pulled an RK chain on a dual sport, that was lubed with triflow type lubes (kronicly ) throught chains life that probably had 5 adjustments and at 14,000 it was kinking pretty bad. (but that was extreme maintenance)

Other chains(like 3 of them) on that bike lasted around 10,000 mile avergage with same type lubes.

I switched to Regina chain and the Motorex at same time and I too went 14,000 on the chain, till need adjustment. Chain or Lube?

That was a major difference of improvment though, and huge improvement on cs sprocket wear, definitely from the LUBE

any body seeing that on the vfr, like youve gone from 15,000mile to 30,000 just because of the luber

Ofcourse, somebody that took the time to care for the chain, there's never any reason to be riding around on heavily rusted chain like I've seen in some pics. That rider no doubt would see alot more improvement with a luber.

But somebody that has engaged in keeping the chain in good shape that went to a luber and saw big life gain?

I've been following this thread, and I dont know if anyone is gaining chain life , But I definitely see alot of time , frustration and money including cleaning of the garage floor.

When all is said and done, get the real thing , and easily cleanable and workable with wd

MOTOREX 622 STRONG STREET GREEN CAN

not avaliable in California due to emmisons standards

available at cycle gear , holds up signifcantly better than anything on the market and stays fluid , never seizies up like waxes.

I've ran alot of crap on the street and ever since trying this, Never have I (EVER)wanted to switch , its a completely different platform, than the various available crap for the road.

Maxima ten weight is very very thin compared to ss8 , and both are supposed to be ten weights. Your right the weights seem to mean nothing from brand to brand.

My experience, every time you switch oil brands, you create a completely different platform of fork action

Ditto on the showa ss8 it is 10 weight , anything thats rebound adjustable OEM from showa is 5 weight on everything I've seen.

I'm glad many of you are trying the oilers. Nice write up from the start

You'll nerver see the red dust , cause when it blows out, your oil will blow in . This should be where the seperation of chain life begins with the oilers.

There's no way to prevent the drying of the internal grease, its going to powderize from heat and condensation, but once it does and you get alittle pin wear and the orings start breaking their seal, the oil of chain oiler should get in.

The big test would be someone who dramatically increases their normal chain life on the same chain. But I dont mean someone who normally allows a chain to rust or neglects, then going to an oiler. That would be useless info.

But somebody that typically does 3 adjustments in 10 to 18,000 mile and sees redust and kinking and uses strengent chain maintenance, if they can go 30,000 mile on the chain without any further adjustment need that would be significant.

you didnt save anything , 520's will not hold up on a vfr , go ahead and order a 530 and steel (now) for a back up

they barely hold up on 30 horse bikes

I've seen that link or article several times over the years on various forums

I've got 40 mph roads that are about 80 mph max between the elevational changing blind corners, if running faster that that you got a death wish on public road.

But I've got other roads that are post 100mph in the sweepers and then slow down on the straights , alot depends on the enviornment.

Did you have the corbin too, I use a cushion setup in the stock seat, its unbarable without it. I think the larger butts can absorb more stress. I rode the stock seat about 20,000 mile before enough was enough, now over 60,000 I still yearn for a new seat. Is the sargent lower than the stock seat ?

Its the square edges to me on the stock seat thats killer , if they eliminated those and built up the front alittle with some good foam, it would be a fine seat.

Pepboys carries the motorcycle specific filters for the vfr, semi oring design too, for like $6.99

My foot rides on the rear brake lever while I'm on the peg of my '06. I would like to lower it a bit. I want to be sure not to f up the operation of the brake light while at it. Can anyone be specific about to to accomplish this?

Thanks,

Gunzer

yes adjust the lever it wont effect the light, but you can test it out, My first set of pads only lasted 7500 mile because my foot was riding on it(they have it adjusted too high, after adjusting , pad life more than doubled >G<

Is there a specific reason why Honda recommends 10-30 in my 07? Are the US 07's also recommending 10-30?

fuel economy, it will be a 20 weight by 1000 mile though

I know its kool to do all this modding stuff rather than just ride the bike, but Damn look at that chain LOL

Thats a nice idea, I may acually try that some day

Yeh I dont know why some have more heating issues, I know the last guy was running watter wetter without antifreeze , and it says very clearly on the bottle does not significantly increase waters boiling point which is 212 degrees.

being the vfrs normal operating range is higher than that , I definitely see an issue developing

I have no problem with the vfr cooling system , if bike goes over 220 fan comes on sends it back to 200 no issue completely stock

223/224 degrees is the max i ever see in the 37,000 mile I've owned it

I've run all the diesil oils and for the money and function I like the Motorcraft 15w40 best .

You've been robbed!

I believe as of '05 they put less tools in the kit, (not sure which ones, [think one was the hub spanner]), but you should have wrenches, screwdrivers, feeler gage, etc.

My 06 came with chain adjuster and extension and that was it, 1 month later salescalled and said the had a seat cowl for it. I really loved the cowl but the tail bag is more of a nessesity.

I was trying to find places to store a tire repair kit and CO2 when I realized that my bike had an additional storage area. I took off the seat and looked closely at the plastic cover in front of my rear brake fluid reservoir. After removing the top plastic rivet, I pulled the plastic housing back and found that there was room on the right side of the bike for storage. It's equivalent to the battery's size and then some. I left the rivet off and have not had any problems with it rattling, etc. during my daily commute.

This came in handy when my right mirror snapped off on a ride out of town. I didn't have my tank or EXL bag with me to store the broken mirror. The mirror and stalk fit in there w/no problem.

Just wondered if anyone else has found a use for this space.

Hum I didnt know there was more room, I keep tools and stuff under the seat, my compressor ,rain gear and stuff in the tail bag.

Ive run alot of different oils

I've been running 15w40 Motorcraft diesil oil for the past few months, thats one that I havent seen anybody use. I like it fairly well

2 royal purples, 1 casttrol and 1 lucas( Now Thats FRICKIN SCAREY)

I used Mobil 1 Clean 5000 and a Wally World ST7317 Oil Filter.

Wasn't sure if the Mobil 1 Clean 5000 10W 40 was ok to use in the VFR I wanted to get the MX-4T but the place I went to didn't have it so I picked up the Clean 5000 after getting home I check the Mobil Website and here is what they had to say... I believe the VFR API is SJ so I think I'm fine till the next oil change by the way where is the best place to find Mobil 1 MX-4T ?

Can I use Mobil Clean 5000 in my motorcycle or my boat engine?

For four-cycle motorcycles, we recommend Mobil 1 MX-4T 10W-40 and Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50. These products are designed specifically for four-cycle motorcycles, including wet clutch applications. If your boat engine calls for an API SM, SL, SJ, SH or SG rated oil, you can use Mobil Clean 5000. However, we recommend that you follow the recommended oil change interval in your owner's manual.

mx4t , autozone is the cheapest place