spud786

So far Im the only one whos replaced a front tensioner without even removing the airbox

All bikes have the same failure potential, but given a choice, the voltmeter should be in front of your face or you'll probbaly miss the early warning, like I did. I was having a good time riding and not looking at it, Only when My RD screamed it only had 10.5 v did I get warning. I know for a fact I had 14.7volt out of the driveway. 45 minute later Im dead in the water stuck on the road.

I had less than ten miles of dead in the water time at that point after RD squealed. Atleast it made me turn around and head for the house, cause I would have ended up alot futher out..

I really need to try this one day on my 75k mile 02! Good write-up btw!

ps my manoneter has lost all it's fluid, whats a decent replacement?

BR

Add in my 83,000 mile o6, if it aint broke dont fix it .

Okay I do see it looks like plastic bristles

Where did you buy this from? I was just looking around for something similar to this.

Using a steel brush on an oring chain is bad, just hose it with wd40 the take a rag and run through your fingers , It needs no more cleaning than that.

Here's another tid bit

I ran pure Pao 5w40 with 2000 miles oil changes on another bike, I noticed cam lobe wear at 25,000 miles, they didnt look as sharp. The key indicator though was a little scatch in one of my lobe peaks that had completely disappeared. Only way for that to happen is wearing down flush.

IMO, 30 weight which is basically what a 5w40 is, or after 500 to 1000 miles. Its not strong enough film base to prevent lobe wear. IN essence I believe the 10w40 is a better weight overall, or even a 15w40 in a pao type oil. Even these oils can drop a grade by 2000 miles. A little shear, alittle fuel dilution I can see a 10w30 in the 20's with not too much effort.

Just too add, I could only hit 98 mph with that 5w40, with 20w50 amsoil or motul 15w50 I could hit 102mph full throttle pegged. A gain up 4 mph additional top end .

There was more glide with the heavy weight, seems to me

Ergo Calculator

Hope some of you guys find this entertaining.

To tell ya the truth , its kind of stupid , i was entertained for a minute

THe only oil i ran longer than normal was 20w50 vtwin mobil 1, that was right at 4,000 mile , i could have gone longer, maybe another 1000 mile. The diesil oils, 15w40 wil go 2500/3000 very easily.

I dont recommend using 8,000 mile intervals unless your following the owners manual operatiing procedures. That means being in 6th gear by 35 mph

8,000 mike intervals should not be used for anything ridden track like.

The key part of the vid and you hid the camara , did you pee on your finger, where did the wetness come from?

I just dont understand why you went to all the trouble of the video and not show the where the leakage was coming from.

Its like reading a book and skipping a chapter of key info

Greetings my Good Man,

I'd like to Elaborate further with some of my findings

""Shortening the screen to the degree that some riders have considered would also seem to me to be self defeating. The shorter the screen, the less pronounced the aerofoil effect. After a while, you may as well be on a naked bike."""

THe vfr you can sit straight up on the interstate at 100 mph in comfort, cant do that on a non windscreen bike. I see riders on 600 bikes all scrunched down at highways speed , obviously the airflow is causing issue. THey have lower windshileds,

You do have to be very careful, giving up one issue and creating another.

Thats why when I test screens, I require more than 500 mile in a series of varying conditions. Ive had pefect clean air screen turn into a buffeting bitch in traffic.

One reason I m still running the stock screen , overall, it about as good as it gets

Just make sure the throttle valve fully closes lock to lock on the bars( so rpm doesnt raise with turning the bars) . but somwhere between zero and 2mm play. Stock , they normally come with about 5mm or more of play. it will aide in the first 1/4 throttle use, you might also find acheiving full throttle easier.

But even new and perfect condition there are spots in the rpm range that will generate some mild surge, if in that 1/4 throttle range.

Also possible your fuel injectors ar alittle clogged, might try some fi cleaner, strong enough a metal can is needed.

EPA settings has 1/4 throttle lean, it shows up as a mild surge in some rpm areas, we are talking mild surge not bucking or anything. Take all the slack out of your throttle cable, that will aide cause of the wrist position will change.

If running any modifications , like airfilter or exhaust, expect more issues, without a properly set up PCommander. The bike is too lean stock below half throttle to absorb any modifications that would lean it out further.

Keep in mind US fuel map is changing and not to our benefit, this will also create issue.

BR, What happens if you disconnect the air control valve?

does that do the same thing , any code? I might be willing to try and see the effect

BTW, I've never heard any pair valve knocking , they are little reed plates, I dont see how they could knock.

does anyone know if any of the the '07-'08 viffers (sorry: interceptors) have all these electrical and running problems? i want a good bike thats comfortable and has hoot-producing potential, but that wont leave me stranded, or wishing i had a cowboy hat and chaps. i know, i know, im probably the only motorcyclist in the world that wants that, but everybody's different right?

06 through 2010 have had zero recalls, and everything has been getting retrofitted to this level.

I have 76,000 mile on my 06 (no valve check), and the first real part failure was a stator at 56,000 mile. Theres no bike your going to buy with better longevity IMO, I rely on my bike to be trouble free. NOw as with any other bike, its all in your early prepping that bears fruit down the road

you should only be so lucky with any other bike

But if you put a set of heli bars and a good seat, VFR is a luxury liner

Did you test everything?

Like 130 mph

going against a 10 mph headwind

being around multiple vehicles in turbulent wind

_________________

Many different set ups accel at one, but fail at the others The stock screen is good normally by a few inches, Normally if you raise up a couple inches the air is quiter , but go too high you get dirty air again.

I tried this laminar lip standard version, it was fantastic in clean air, but far more noise. and if you got around vehicles in turbulent wind it would buffet and rock like crazy. Stock shield over all with taller seat worked well for me, plus the leg room

double bonus

They do have puig or mra racing screens that are lower, ever thought of those ?

So I've been doing some searching on "raising the bar" and it seems like most people have gone with Helibars and are satisfied. I was actually thinking of going with the Convertibars because you could bring them up 3" if you got the longer brake/clutch/throttle lines. Called them today and a recording said they were in the middle of some Probate Court proceeding and were currently not taking/shipping orders...great, I wonder why? I guess if I still wanted 'em, some internet site still has 'em in stock somewhere, but how to do you go about finding the correct longer lines? Anyone know?

If you love your Helibars please chime in. Or if you hate 'em can I ask why? I'm gettin ready for my first long ride and am trying to make it as PAIN free as possible.

If you want to know what a heli bar is like, raise your stock clipons out of their detent and twist them forward. The only difference is the healies are also 1inch futher back.

The vfr has alot of adjustability if you use it. Buyy a set of heli and a good seat, vfr is set for life

Changed my vote from Rotella to Mobil 1. I really wanted to believe it would replace an expensive synthetic, but my 5th gen ate it in less than 2,000 miles. And shifting was pretty bad with the Rotella out the gate. Bike runs/shifts/sounds much, much smoother with M1 4T again.

Maybe it's a gear driven cam thing but no more cheap oils for me.

Thats because you have female qualities( thats not a negative) just means your senses arent clouded like most males.

I agree the rotella 15w40 is about the worst shifting , for an oil that get so much glamore talk

Has anyone found dino Rotella to be better than Syn Rotella? I ask because after only 2k miles my bike destroyed the T6 and it shifts like hell now, but I hear about 15W-40 owners going 3-4k no issues.

Keep in mind with my comments, I destroyed my fork oil the black coal and sluging in 6000 mile, where other have changed fluid at 16,000 mile and that oil still look not bad.

Rotella(syn) disetigrates in a bike much like a car oil, its a sub 2000 mile oil in a bike. My testing analysis, showed this break down under 1100 mile. The reason I did the tsting, I didnt like what I was seeing in the oikl dumps.

Rollella 15 w40 is about the worst shifting oil I've ever put in the vfr,

My 6th just turned over 25k and I'm going to replace the fuel filter this spring, it's original and I'm noticing an increase in midrange lean-surge. It may also be the amazing "gasoline" available here in Denver... it's enough to make me consider shipping in 55 gallon drums of gasoline from KS, but that's another rant for another time. In any case, I'm going to start treating this is a every 3 years or ~24k mile item from now on, and will do it during the yearly coolant/brake/clutch fluids swap in the spring I guess. This time I got from ATE Super Blue to ATE Type 200, no more smurf juice looking at me through the sight glasses, and Honda Coolant with a tablespoon of Redline Water Wetter. I love maintenance!

The VFR fuel filter theres no requirement, its a life time item unless it gets damaged , I'm at 72,000 mile with no valve check and thats required, fuel filter ?? Poof

Not likely to happen, just dont put dirt and water in your tank or not ride and allow it to rust.

So this thought came to me the other night: Why dont I get rid of the linked brake system on my VFR, and replace them with something much simpler; standard stainless brake lines.

Without actually planning this out, I dont think it would be that difficult. Would it be as easy as disconnecting the banjo bolts, and routing some stainless lines?

I dont have ABS on my 6th gen, but I want to upgrade my breaks, and paying 300 plus for a stainless steel set with all the little lines seems like it would be way more of a hassle. what do you guys think?

I only use 1 finger on the front brake and find them to be pretty strong brakes. Enough to where I'd never have the inclination to go your route.

But delinking, atleast if operating as designed, you'll get weaker brakes, cause it wont be getting the linked effect, which is more stopping power.

Hows your fluid bleeding and flushing over the bikes life been?

I'll be putting my as-yet-unridden new-to-me 93 on the road soonish. I've got a jug of Prestone pre-mix Dex-cool compatible coolant, Dot 4 brake fluid, and Iridium plugs ready to install . . . now I have to choose an oil to go with. I used to use Mobil 1 red cap (Motul 5100 gave me clutch-slip on my 98). My local store carries Shell Rotella synth at $51 (!) for a 4-litre jug, but I am wondering whether this hi-mile bike might prefer dino. MC specific oil around here is limited to smallish bike dealers. So my question, for those using Mobil 1: which Mobil 1 are you using?

Man , that suks you got clutch slip on the Motul, they do use moly in many of their oils..

I am just trying out Castrol power 1 racing, full synthetic, 5w40 mainly because it was cheap at the time $60 / 4 litres.

This oil replaces the Castrol R4 superbike

Seems Ok, gearchange is very slick, engine runs cooler.

I was worried about the "5" aspect of the cold viscosity, but that is at 0 deg C and it is never that cold here.

Previously I used Mobil xtra 4t semi synthetic 10 w 40 with good results, and have used mobil 1 racing 4t in previous VFRs also with good results, but it has become very expensive, about $80 for 4 litres.

A few people here swear by Motul 5100 10w40 semi synthetic, but I think it is too expensive ($70 for 4 litres) for what it is.

The manual recommends a 10 w 30 now, seems a bit light to me.

Not too sure about running the 5 w 40 over our hot summer though.

Quick update on this also, I think this oil (5W40) is too light for the Aussie summer, the slick gear change went off after about 1000 Kms so I have gone back to the 10w40 semi synthetic.

It is probably OK for winter use.

That oil is also available in a 10w50 weight . It is super Light weight in 5w40, and not a long life oil but is premum quality base oil, I agree its too light for vfr tranny in that weght.

I agree Honda can stick there 10w30 Ide crap. Vfr will eat a 10w40 into a 30 weight anyway in about 1000 mile.

I agree with Tightwad, once connection is damaged, unlikely ever to be reliable, is this a 3 yellow wire plug connector?

Knife,

The only thing I can tell ya, if your asking is 4 T worth more, they are not the same base oil, cause the flash points are significantly higher on the 4t , by about 40 degrees.

The bad: The constant noise is mostly gone but I can still hear an intermittent rattle/tick/noise so either my back one is bad too or something else is amiss.

Its hit or miss to get a tentioner that doesnt rattle , just look at those who've replaced them multiple times even at best they dont rattle for a while , being you did get change on the issue , says you replaced the right part.

You probably seen my mention on the issue with oil type that corrected my noise and it was loud& Kronic , but I recently noticed The oil hole through the gasket can barely fit a needle through, I wonder if increasing that hole would free the oil flow alittle and aide with the body rattle, so people can use what ever oil they want and be noise free.