spud786

Id be hard pressed to ever recall any synthetic on non synthetic oil light weight or heavy weight that made a significant difference with mileage, if so it would be in the tenths of a mile. Just never anything worry of consideration in mileage regard to a motorcycle.

For the money, its hard to beat 2 quarts of 10w40/ 1 quart of 20w50 for longevity of parts and oil change interval.

Same as 14 years ago. Valentine One and a H.A.R.D. Unit from Legalspeeding.com. Best combo there is on the market imo.

I need to send my V1 in for the upgrade so it can do Bluetooth display on my phone for the same reasons listed in this thread.

Lots of information out there. "Best" kind of depends on the question "what for?" .

I went with a Redline by Escort (Bell the same company now) and I will soon be penning my latest lessons learned in the series "Tales of Redline".

That looks like a hornet's nest.

yes Redline is top dog, except no substitute.

Only the dual atenna ones meet the gate, the others work to some degree, but cant pull off the things the redline is capable of.

Don't believe me, but all independent testing its the proven one by a wide margin.

I tried a single antenna gps model, not good enough, the redline will detect around blind corners, blind hills. Otherwise your right on top of them before notice.

Anyone running xband is a rookie

I have well over 100,000 miles on vfr clutch no extra work required, other than don't use oils not designed for clutch plates.

For the price of the 2014 you could buy a used 6th Gen and a used 5th Gen! While the 2014 has some nice improvements, they are not significant enough to pay 2X the cost of a 6th Gen.

maybe but if someone wants a new bike, you cant force them to accept anything other. If I had a nickel for every used bike that ends up with issues shortly after purchased it would be a good chunk of change.

Now if buying used, the 06+ would be the direction, cause they come with all the retrofits factory installed. Now I never considered the 5th gen sportier, looks dated and the motor was never enough reason to want one.

oem clutch only is the best, its near a life time clutch unless something happens to it. But in a case like yours, you may have to throw the baby out with the bath water and start over.

you must have some kind of warpage, or slave is not holding pressure correctly.

The redline or the STI , they are the only ones that meet the gate in detection. they also have auto muting, good for bike application, so its hands free operation. These coming in magnesium casing. Don't try to wrap them in anything , you'll burn them up. and built in voltage monitor, also good for bike application.

The valentine is old school and you need extra mp3 adapter unit if you plan on a wire to the ear.

I had read that the M1 Extended Performance was still using all PAO...

It has added calcium for longer term cleaning and that's your extended performance.

BLS posted a uoa with a mere few hundred miles, with metal counts that are high for a vfr in that short amount of mileage. I guess if all you guys are running sub 1000 miel intervals, you wont see how much metal you are actually losing.

So the battery in my VFR is dead. ORiginal in a 2010 model, with only 2100 miles when I bought it so I'm not surprised.

Any suggestions? Anything wrong with a Western Power Sports YTZ14S?

- Dan

With some aftermarket , you have to verify the sizing . Yuasa being the Bar, I know the scorpion is the same size, don't know about the western.

yes

Just do the gasket modification, so you don't end up with the same issue, the next day or the next month, it seems improving the oil flow is paying dividends thus far. Increase the oil port in the gasket. from .5mm to ( 2.75mm to 3mm).

Sounds like you replaced a good RR, and the real problem is the stator.

Vtwin used to be around 518 degree flash, now its down around 440 degree like their car oils, vtwin used to be the real stuff, the base oil has cheapen. 10w40 used to be at 487 degree, mobil has made changes to its expensive oils while maintaining price, consumer none the wiser.

Amsoil has a 0W-40 motorcycle-specific oil that is the cat's ass~

Referring back to that Amsoil video the guy states that Mobil 1 0w30

is the base oil to all their auto synthetics and Mobil 1 5w30 is the

base to all their diesel synthetics... in their view M1 is the premium

POA... The motorcycle specific oil is either one or the other or a

combination...

There only a few places to get pao, that has nothing to do with the final product, and to even insuate they are the same is totally incorrect. Anyone with a nose should be able to tell they aren't the same oils.

the question should be how much pao is in Mobil1, in comparision. The way the flash point have dropped on many Mobil1 products, such as the VTWIN, id say not much.

For me personally, I've always sought out more training, and every opportunity has made riding more enjoyable. The one's I'd like to take now are: Trials, the local Trials Training Center has a "Trials for a Day" course where they rent you a bike and an instructor... )))))))

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That would be much more of an advanced course.

I never took the basic msf and while it does have some useful info, I did have to take the advanced course to rid a ticket or else I would never have taken it. Was the advanced course of any value, that really depends what your skill level and riding experience has been . Adult new riders, theses courses are really good for testing purposes, cause they haven't seen any of this type of exposure. If youve ridden and raced since a kid and made it to adulthood, you might find them boring with little challenge.

All I can say about the advance course, they don't care how you ride to achieve their obstacles, as long as you can do the obstacles they don't care about how many fingers you use, unlike a basic msf course.

I don't have pogo front suspension, probably you have heavier springs and too light of oil in combo, then you'll have that issue. But full adjustable suspension is nice, which the 8th gen still does not have that in reality. Did you also get compression adjustment?

Luckily I was able to get a usable set up on my 6th gen, but I know that few have achieved that with out sending them off.

Nonetheless it's a sure improvement on the original VTEC.. although leaving still heaps of room for improvement Honda-san.

Not imo , it lost a ton of adjustability, with fork tube height , clip-ons ect

Its okay if you need a New VFR, but I don't.

Run a real oil and drop that metal count 70%

actually I cant guarantee the full drop without the leaded Fuel diet

There's really no point in replacing them both till the other one is needed, that just doubles your cost. Make sure to do the gasket modification or your new one could start noise soon after install.

Ive seen the results of larry's , wasn't too impressed, compared to known better results. Im just saying better to get real results , generated from your motor.

no valve change from 02 and 09, I wouldn't touch the vtecs, the tighter they are the smoother your bike through vtec transition, adjust the regular ones if you want.

There's really only one thing that tends to make noise on the vfr, and that's the cct's. Valves them selves never make noise unless way too loose.

You guys really ought to run a uoa, before sheeping on the 5w30 ban wagon. I think you'll be a little shocked. I know BLS has not for any useable runs.

actually that motul is fine with a Cat as long as you don't burn oil. However the add pack is very strong, and more than likely is trying to get that 5w30 to hold up in a motorcycle, it definitely has a far better chance than those light weight car oils 5w30's.

I almost bought a 2005 fjr for $9500 brand new, for what I do it was a little big , and at the time, I had to park it in the backyard through a privacy gate.

Id say the decision is based mostly on a lot of interstate travel, verses a lot of sport riding between the two, the FRJ is quite abit heavier as the only side note.

Got mine installed on my 5th Gen. Really like it! Superb workmanship and super solid fit. Plus it looks like an OEM part. Thanks huntinggunns!

Glad you like it. OEM look is what I was going for and I agree, it looks like we got it nailed down.

Just got back from 3000 km trip with this RAM mount, an iPhone and GPS. Worked great, very stable, keeps stuff off the bars, which I like! Here are some pics of the set up. Thanks Huntingguns

Thanks for the feedback. It looks like the design has shown it's long term durability. I have had mine on for over a year now and once the rubber rawl nut seats to the inside of the steering stem, it won't budge.

I need one asap for my 7th gen.. Huntinggunns, do you have a unit available? Please advise.

Jim

Hey, any more of these on the radar? My tank mount resulted in a rubbed spot on the tank when I use the a camera so I'd prefer to move it to the stem. Thanks!

PM's sent.

Eventually I will buy one of those from Hunting guns, I want the chrome cap, hope he still has one when Im ready.

my KTM is getting all my free money at the moment

My 07 RWB ended this year's riding season a few days early by eating its stator. Mileage is around 45,000 miles IIRC. I haven't pulled the cover off yet, but all the electrical tests indicate she's pooched. Lots of corrosion in the connections, too, so I'll be doing all of the little maintenance I should've done last spring when I bought her.

On a separate note, my '95 stator looks as good as new, with 67,000 miles on it. They don't make 'em like they used to, or something...

You shouldn't have corroded connections, that's separate issue from stator failure. Ive changed stators on a few different bikes, never any wiring corroded issues. And that's just making sure the connectors have a positive mechanical connection and protected with wd40 ONLY!!

The connector issue may be cause additional heat stress within the stator.

My 07 RWB ended this year's riding season a few days early by eating its stator. Mileage is around 45,000 miles IIRC. I haven't pulled the cover off yet, but all the electrical tests indicate she's pooched. Lots of corrosion in the connections, too, so I'll be doing all of the little maintenance I should've done last spring when I bought her.

On a separate note, my '95 stator looks as good as new, with 67,000 miles on it. They don't make 'em like they used to, or something...

The old gen also doesn't have the output of the 6thgen, but has far more kronic RR issues.