spud786

110,000 plus miles, never have put a water hose on the bike. anyone beat that?

Another fun way to measure the effects of all this would be to measure the temperature of the R/R.

Not just fun, but, if I said I did not want to disconnect anything while running, this is a nonintrusive way to try to identify power dissipated in the R/R.

i can ride 200 miles, to the naked hand, stock RR is luke warm , nothing there to measure. ally helps to run an accessory , to bleed off excess

Everything is there it measure. But what you just pointed out is that air circulation has an effect. The measurement would have to be the steady state, after a "long term" while the bike is stationary. Yes, not an ideal way to get information, especially since the temp would only feed more calculations..

Im just speaking over the last 110,000+ miles , no issue with oem part longevity

Another fun way to measure the effects of all this would be to measure the temperature of the R/R.

i can ride 200 miles, to the naked hand, stock RR is luke warm , nothing there to measure. Although Ive been through a couple stators, still waiting for failure of the second failure and install the 3rd, Stock RR has been fine.

Stator life for me has been a consistant post 55,000 mile with oem stators , in addition all original wiring.

any thing that reduces power consumption (hid's ect), expect more electrical issues, it actually helps to run an accessory , to bleed off excess

I use Heavy film base lubricant mainly for sprocket wear, not really chain wear, Dry lubes, no lubes or wd40, does nothing for sprocket tooth life, as it doesn't provide that thick film cushion that's needed, to prevent or greatly reduce metal to metal contact.

I'm only talking about removing the external cam chain tensioner to replace it, but as I said, I am not worried about doing so as I heard the chain could skip timing on the cam once tension is removed as the cam will spin from pressure unless it's set to TDC.

To answer your concern, as you release the tension on the cct, any rotational pressure will subside along with that, there really instant enough play to jump a tooth easily anyway, unless you actually tried to turn the motor over or tried to start it .

Fantastic suggestions, all - THANK YOU!

I only have an analog multimeter, and with no drain the battery appears just under or at 12 volts, and just under 13 when she starts up, so I'm going that route - will roll her over near an outlet and charge it up. While I'm waiting I'll check and clean the kill switch connections.

agm battery?

charge the battery fully, it should be 12.8v minimum on a full charge, really a good AGM will hold 13 volt for weeks in standby, but you have obvious issues with your statement.

if you charge the battery and a few hours later it falls below 12.8 volt in standby, get rid of it.

The 02 model originally had a different flywheel, you have to ensure that you have the newest flywheel to work with the latest stators.

Those agm batteries, tend to drop a cell after a few years, clock reset is a symptom of that. go the the st1300 battery same size but more oats.

2006+ for the revised wiring and vtec, no recalls

Hey guys, does the bike need to be set to TDC (top dead center) to remove the CCT. Getting some mixed opinions from people saying it should be set to TDC so that the cam shafts don't spin from the valve spring pressure when you release tension on the chain, causing the chain to skip teeth.

However reading through all the CCT changing guides on here, not once does anyone mention setting the bike to TDC first.

If just installing a new cct, tdc is not required

All sounds normal, you are trying to fix an issue that doesn't exist

After a long, hot summer here in Florida I decided to take a short trip in mid-November as the weather cools. Looking at about 2500 miles round trip across the southern parts of LA, MS, AL and TX that I've never been in before. Taking it easy with short days and overnight stops in Destin, FL; Columbia, MS; Alexandria, LA; Nocagdoches, TX.

Any recommendations for what I should see, or where I should eat, along the route?

Basic GPS track is here: http://umap.fluv.io/en/map/tampa-to-texas_3267#7/29.061/-86.550

I rode my Dirt bike from florida to texas, on ih110 , I did it for sex, I see no other reason Id do that run.

Lots of truck transmissions have a whirring noise when using the Granny gear, just like the vfr. its more than straight cut gears or they'd all do it, but normal for the vfr.

Hi VFRD's. Today I went on a ride with my buddy who has an 05 Repsol with a Barnett clutch. I was fortunate enough to have the privilege of riding his bike. Boy did that clutch feel smooth. I want to replicate this experience on my 08 VFR.

My question is will getting the Barnett Clutch kit along with better springs make my clutch feel smoother? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Are you sure you are not feeling more of the close ratio gear box smoothness of the cbr, aftermarket clutches generally suck compared to stock Honda.

Heavier springs only make the clutch pull harder , Nothing wrong with the vfr clutch compared to the dosens of bikes Ive owned, cable pull clutches do tend have more feel engagement than hydraulic in some cases.

My wifes Toyota and my chevy Colorado, both went 110,000 miles on the plugs(normal wear) just a maintenance change out, neither looked as severely worn as the vfr at 56,000 mile. The ground electrodes were nearly gone on the vfr.

In my experience, the ONLY difference is longevity. Iridiums will easily go 50,000 miles & more.

I went 56,000 miles on my second set of plugs in my 06vfr, bad move, ground electrode was near desentigrated, with huge gaps, surprised I had no runability issues.

40,000 miles max from now on, cars 100,000 mile is okay.

Mine needed a 200 ml top up during the second oil change period, and has not needed any more since.

HONDA full synthetic on intervals of 4000 miles. Now at 14500.

The 08 Fireblades are notorious for burning oil. I have heard up to a liter per thousand miles is somehow considered "normal".

Honda replaced the rings as a warranty issue on 08's.

I think the manufacturers try to limit their liability and expense to say its normal to use a 1/2 quart of oil per 1,000 mile. Ofcourse they are all full of chit.

My ktm says its normal to burn 1/2 ounce per hour, ktm is damn lucky that it doesn't. It doesn't burn at all actually , very impressive.

Your well past the seating point with rings, so if its consuming I doubt it will improve, you might be able to reduce consumption with a different oil.

The ebcs don't seem to last as long, and near the same price, less than 10,000 miles and I was scrubbing metal, where I easlily get double off the oem pads.

I'll stick with the oem, if I have time to order ahead, via that reason, I had to buy a second pad set of ebcs, but next time back to oem.

My VFR desperately needs some new spark plugs. I went to change them and I think I've lost the factory tool.

Has anyone got an alternative to the factory tool? I'll order a new one but I think it'll take a week or two to get to me. I've read some horror stories about people using regular spark plug sockets...

Never had a factory tool, its probably worthless, use a 3 inch and a 6inch extension in combo, with proper socket and a magnet tool, you don't even to remove fairings for the front, and just pivot the tank for the rear ones. Its actually not bad at all.

In fitting the new shock, we took out the battery, it is one with little yellow plugs on top of the cells.

With it out, I noticed that the fluid level was WAAAAY below the minimum mark on the side. some only have half up to the minimum level, some 3/4

The battery itself performs flawlessly.

Bought a bottle of DM'd water but now wonder if I simply fill with DM water only or if -since the levels are so low- I must add some acid???

Acid vapor is not kind to metal parts, that's why better to stick to sealed type batteries, otherwise distilled water is fine for your purpose.

Thanks guys. I have been reading through the "vtec electrical problems" post all day off and on. My head is spinning. Its tough becuase a lot of the talk is pre-06.

Could this have been caused by a combination of weak battery and always riding with high beams on (I like to be seen!)

My next question for you VFR gurus is with an 06 is the whole blue connector ground wire issue something I need to check as well?

Thanks a million

All bikes need to prep the wiring, atleast I do this on all bikes, my 06 is all stock wiring at 110,000 mile no wiring has melted or required replacement, those spots you showed pictured are known trouble spots, ensuring the contact areas are clean and tight an ohm well, and prep with (wd40) is what I use. I inspect those areas every year or when I have a side cover off.

Now the stators are not life time items, 50 thousand or so is about average life, I still have original RR as there's nothing wrong with it.

Okay, I'm playing devil's advocate for a second. Everyone says never use brake fluid from an open container, because of the hygroscopic properties of most brake fluid. Everybody knows that catastrophe awaits anyone who dares use fluid from an opened container. My question: Has anyone directly known someone who has had issues with boiling brake fluid, not on the track mind you, but in real life experience?

I know the potential issues, but are they really as gawdawful as the brake fluid makers would have us believe? Is a container that was opened, then the lid screwed back on tight and stored in a heated/air conditioned garage really going to cause the brakes to self-destruct?

If its metal bottle stored outside, you could get condensation( ive seen this with fuel drums). Plastic bottles are resistant to have condensation issues, and normally not an issue in a insulated building.

You should, brake instantly without locking it up , while looking for an exit hole if needed to avoid the target ,all depends on the amount of time.

keep in mind the 1 second it takes to reach for the brakes you've already traveled 40 ft, learn to ride with a finger or 2 covered and be proficient, and you'll last longer than the average mc career, just in reaction time alone.

How do you clean frontwheel i caant get beside the discs to clean the inside of my wheel

I just ride it, never cleaned in over 110,000 miles, no problem with wheel bobbins or anything, bug guts and grease provide a protective layer, and you seem to have much less issues than average.

course some regions seem to have a big corrosion issue, that you just don't see in my area.