spud786

I dont see a hole in those to mount, and the nylon one offers some adjustability. But like mentioned, the nylon one has not really been an issue, If you replace it every 60 or 70.000 miles.

WHAT????

how do the nylon ones adjust?? its one solid chunk of junk mine was dead before 6000 miles.. forget 60,000!!

Im over 100,000 miles and on my second one, never had one fail yet, just replaced as a proactive measure from wear..

the nylon one is a press fit , that offers some flexibility with mounting, I doubt the aftermarket aluminum would offer the same tight but flexible fit.

I dont see a hole in those to mount, and the nylon one offers some adjustability. But like mentioned, the nylon one has not really been an issue, If you replace it every 60 or 70.000 miles.

The Vfr is a fairly heavy bike, I think it handles like crap below 35 psi, much like a slug.

About the lowest I go is about 34F/ 40rear. Below that the pronounced sluggishness shows up. course when running border line pressure like that, you have to check pressures ridely. Therefore 36/42, is very usable and allows some leeway.

But as far as delaminating, Ive run sustained post 100mph with hot rear pressures as high as 48 psi, no exploding, cold that was around 43.5 psi

several years ago I tried both the regular and the tall laminar lips, both pretty much crap with negative effects. The tall one made me want to throw up from google eyed buffeting, and the shorter one was noisy, and cross winds provided negative effects.

Pretty much stuck to stock afterwards. also I still have cracks in my stock shild from the added wind pressure the laminar lips put on my shield.

Some Vfrs use clear bulbs and other yellow bulbs

I have heard people say that a V-4 has more low end torque than an inline 4 of the same displacement due to the V-4 firing order. Aren't two cylinders firing at once whereas with in I4 only one fires at once or have I got that wrong? Anyway I agree the VFR is limp in first gear but I thought that was due to gearing.

I recently tested an R1 crossplane, looking for a vfr replacement. It was at the top of the list, it may have more peak power but really I didnt see alot of differnce, except the unstability once the r1 was hard on the throttle though 100 mph(acceleration headshake), but that might be weeded out through suspension adjustment. End result, defrintely not worth giving up the VFR. Lets hope the Cbr is alot better, Im wanting to cop a ride off one of those. Some of these guys should have rode, 80'100's and 125's of the 70's, then they'd have a better idea of what no lowend actually is.

My 6th Gen VFR has a tremendous amount of engine braking. I don't think its just mine since I have read others comment. I think it is way too much and wonder if it can be reduced when the throttle is shut off.

I am just thinking out loud, so any ideas or 'no-goes' are helpful. There are 4 butterfly throttle plates, correct? If I could get half of them to remain very slightly OPEN when the throttle is shut, would it reduce vaccuum? I understand that would make the cylinders uneven when throttle is open more, but in theory? Or is there a screw-stop that can be adjusted to leave all 4 plates open slightly when throttle is off?

Basically, I don't want any fuel going in when throttle is closed but butterflies are partially open - is that even possible? I don't know what sensor will cause the injectors to fire...

Thanks for any ideas!

I dont rate the VFR engine braking as excessive , but it is there, freer exhaust should loosen it up some, or just learn to use it.

Did you come from 2 strokes?

Suzuki imo, is about the weakest, so Im surprised you have 65,000 on an sv stator, I know my suzuki stator went out about 21,000 miles, and that is pretty much the average for that particular model, but I did see 1 or 2 make it towards the high 20's a rarity.

I have a friend and his vstrom stator failed at 10,000 miles.

The majority of oem motorcycle stators, are sub 50,000 mile units, most fail in the 20 to 30,000 mile range, any models that average above 50,000 mile are considered above above average life, the your 06 falls in the range. Although you had a failure in less than ten thousand miles thats very poor for the vfr and not normal, you might check all your wiring from the stator through all the charging circuit and see if you have over heating and melting plugs. But when they replaced your stator do you guarantee it was an oem unit?

In all the Oem vfr stators, are the best that can be had, yes they will fail , they all do. Ive experienced very good stator life on the vfr, the first oem 56,000 miles and the second oem is pushing 50,000 and still going, cant really ask for much more, considereing the statistical numbers in stator life, for the majority of motorcycles is much lower.

Im still waiting for someone with aftermarket stators, to come even close to oem.

I was in a mc store the other day to get a tire, and on the clearnce table, they had a 110 linked DID ZVM2!!!!!!!!

For $40 dollars brand new, I didnt need a chain, but that was too good to pass up. Do you know what it costs to buy a DID ZVM2?

That was over $100 in savings minimum, I dont even think you can find one for less than $160

Mostly they break because, from what I understand, people are trying to break the chain before grinding the rivet heads smooth. A high quality chain breaker will easily run nearly $70 by itself, so you're paying about that for a chain breaker/rivet tool. It just isn't strong enough to break a chain that isn't prepped. Sometimes it just of irks me that some will pay good money for useless bling, but balk at paying for decent tools. Just kind of a pet peeve of mine.

yes once you get to a 530 chain and higher, they will break most chain breakers, grinding the rivet heads totall flush you can usually pop off side plate with a large screwdriver. I dont own a chain breaker, not a must have tool, however a rivet punch is desirable, Im tired of using a anvil and ball peen hammer.

I finally mounted my oem identical airfilter today, sold by EMGO, its half the price of the honda and is identical, I bet made by the same manufacturer as the Honda one(its that identical) in every way. I paid $25 shipped for the filter.

VFRs are an absolute cakewalk compared to a ZX-10R. On that bike, you have to remove both seats, 2/3s of the tail cowling, both side fairings, the inner fairing panels, the entire airbox assembly & ram air tubes, the PAIR system, the coolant overflow tank, and actual portions of the frame (not to mention moving the tank and radiator) just to gain access to them. On a 5th-gen you need to lift the tank and unbolt the oil cooler -- consider us very lucky.

Im glad I read this, a zx10 was a consideration, but thats too much trouble

Compare to most aftermarkets the stators are, the cct's different story. I never had any noise on the rear cct, till about 90.000 miles though. The front one I replaced at 30,000 mile and it rattled like day #2.

So thats two Ive bought, I almost bought a manual one, when that rear one started rattling, but there was some error in my purchase so I took it as a sign and went oem instead.

I think you are on the right track, routinally moving mirrors they probably loosen over time, and no longer stay in postion.

Great thread! Thank you for taking the time to take such clear pics and posting it!

It's good to read this thread, my 2003 VTECker has some 60,000 km on the clock and I'm only just starting to hear the odd CCT noise on letting off the throttle after giving it lots of gas... "blipping the throttle" so to speak. I know the sound oh too well from an old 1971 Toyota Hiace I had way back when... must've changed the CCT 3 times... in one year.

If you're needing to replace the CCTs 3 times a year, wouldn't that mean that something else is amiss (loose chain?) and you would have to fix that?

I've been told that I need to replace my CCTs but also more likely, need to replace the chains (front and back to be sure). Apart from giving the CCTs a go, is there any other test I could do to see whether its just the CCTs that are worn, or the chains are dodgey too?

The more you ride with dodgey CCTs, are you more likely to ruin/stretch the chains? Or is it just the fear of the chains skipping a tooth and stuffing up your engine the main worry?

(Sorry for all the questions! I'm very n00bish and trying to get my head around this before I fork out big bucks to get it fixed).

The honda ccts are just a pore excuse for not a precision made item, the plunger fits loosley in the body, they can rattle brand new or down the road. Its nothing to do with the chain, its the cct plunger in its body that rattles. Some may think its the chain buts its not.

I noticed absolutely no one runs 16/44...As it applies to a 6th gen (16/43 stock), why not? Not enough of a difference?

Is 44 tooth avaliable in steel? actually 15/44 would be about right to hit the bikes top speed, 15/43 is slightly overgeared to do that unless running down hill.

The problem still exists on 07's. On the freeway around 80 and the whole dash went out. No tach, speedo, gas gauge. It was daylight so I later learned that I had no taillight or headlight. Bike ran fine but I went straight home as a precaution. First time bothering to read this thread but I'm glad it's here. My 30 amp fuse is not blown and the red wire looks fine but the 30 amp connector is starting to discolor. Sounds like I need to look thru all my fuses. Do I need to run thru all of my wires to look for chaffing?

If your 30 amp connector is discoloring, its probably resistance in the connection, causing heat build up, its good to prep them with wd40 and do a resistance check on both sides of the connection(less than 1 ohm). The 06 + models have electrical connector improvements , they've even added some waterproof connectors on the 09's, But you still need to prep your wiring for the long haul with some wd and a continuity check, and occasionally recheck.

NOte to self , dont buy BIKE MASTER

Doesnt sound like its an exact oem fitment/replacement, maybe its like the K&n, you have to remove the standard OEM gasket for it to work right.

Oops... Never seen such recommendation. Actually I asked for a K&N or a BMC but I got the BikeMaster one. However, I was thinking of that 's not a bad one in comparison with the OEM air filter.

Yes, I did remove the gasket at the first place. But the problem still.

The EMGO, is the only exact OEM replacement that I know of, its Identical to OEM

NOte to self , dont buy BIKE MASTER

Doesnt sound like its an exact oem fitment/replacement, maybe its like the K&n, you have to remove the standard OEM gasket for it to work right.

Kal dek has been fully into the differences of of differnt calipers on vtech years, which both are definitely different from the 5th gen, he's your best shot knowledge wise. BUt no way would I want 5th gen calipers or 02 -05 6th gen calipers on a 06+ bike.

So send that stuff back

The problem I have with k&n, they cost as much as oem, thats not worth the money for an aftermarket equivilant, I have no use for the nut on the filter either, so Id rather buy oem or the half price puralator motorcycle filter at pep boys.

Luckily they have a Cult like following to stay in business with their oil filters and dirt sucking airfiliters.

Back before they finally came out with water proof winter motorycle gloves, I used thermax liners, nitrie liners, and heavy leather, that combo was okay, but doesnt hold a candle to winter Tundra gloves, those actually did very good. Only issue mine arent totally waterproof, but now they have mc gloves made to this caliper plus waterproof. Thats where Id start

Im not big on covers over the grips, you take your hand out for some reason, and in a clinche situation, hamfisting getting back in could cause an issue.

Each independant, I suppose thats true, Ive always found anytime you change one of the major factors you start with a different platform to adjust.Ive always found ,anytime Ive upped spring rate it Requires less oil height, atleast if running the same weight oil.Oil height has its greatest effect in the last 25% of travel, if talking 12 inches , thats the last 4inch. If only talking 4.5 total inches like on a VFR, the greatest effect is in the last 1 inch or so of travel.Oil height doesnt reduce travel(unless) using too much oil causing hydraulic lock towards end of stroke, but the right amount of increase will stiffen the curvature of the stroke, but not reduce total travel.I had race tech do a set of forks with gold valves several years back, I sent them back twice, still no good in comparison to my original modified set up, That was not a good investment at all.

They didnt like having to redo them either, overall I fiqure, unless you have a tuner on site, thats willing to adjust or take them apart multiple times, which is what I needed, its really the only way. The first set up they sent me, just blew through the travel too much, I think those gold valves just open the oil flow too much. When I sent them back , they stiffened the slow sped valving , but I still had to run them at 2 out on compression(practically closed) to make them usable.

Thanks, I'm going to measure the old ones with calipers tonight and compare to another set of new ones I have.

Another question: Was I stupid to put medium thread locker on the pad pin threads before torquing to 18 N.m? I did grease the pin well...

Yeah I wouldnt lock tight the pins, heat and corrison could cause freeze up.