spud786

This site freezes up with Internet Explorer  , some kind of long script error

On 9/14/2016 at 11:38 AM, Rogue_Biker said:

Honda Factory service manual recommends torqueing down the oil filter to 20 ft-lbs.

 

But that's with an OEM filter and not the K&N filter with a build in bolt.

 

I once hand tightened a K&N filter with a 1/4 twist of the built in bolt with a wrench. It leaked after 3k miles and I had to re-tighten it.  20 ft-lbs. is pretty light tightening anyway.

I tired 20 ft lbs to see if Honda knows what they are talking about, they dont.  20 ft lb compresses the gasket so much the filter is able to make metal to metal contact with the filter flange on the motor, and it will grove it over time.

So Yeah Honda knows squat, I figure they spec 20 ft lbs, to ensure it doesnt come loose, but its definitely not required as with any other motor or filter.

I've ran ppower fronts for years and years, really grown sick of them.   I new they were getting hard to find, and wanted to find a future replacement. Got a Metzler m7 rr front, right off the bat its stickier , has traction feel and very stable, with the bike handling.  Thats one issue I was seeing with the ppower, just horrible handling, ecpecially after the tire had alittle wear on it.

The m7 tire is super super light, also has a the tire dot, its the least weight ive had to use on a tire in over 111,000 miles.

Not sure of the longevity yet , but its a very good performance tire, and my ktm dirt bike was showing me how bad the handling had become with the vfr on a ppower front. The m7 made me want to ride the vfr more.

I just replaced my second  oem stator recently  , once over 50,000 mile you are on borrowed time. Both of mine exceeded post 50,000 mile life. Im now on the 3rd oem stator.

BTW its been about  a year since Ive been on this site, constantly freezes up using internet explorer, something about a long script.

Ive used the stop and go, okay to get home, not worth a squat on longevity, road laws have no meaning for me though, and may be why rope plugs and stuff like that doesn't hold up.

I do internal repair with the flexible Witch Hat and blue flammable glue , not had one fail yet.

I rode before kids, during kids and after kids, Heck I rode when my wife was in the Hospital having kids, she was wondering when I'd show up, priorities , ya know!

I am considering changing fork oil on my eighth gen. Has anyone else done it? What weight oil and how much air gap to leave? Thanks in advance.

My 06 vfr fork oil was coal black and sludging at 5,000 miles, second change about 15,000 miles, much better, afterwards only do it 30,000 miles or more.

Some guys had better looking oil than I did at higher mileage. Really Ive never seen as bad of oil in any of my dirt bikes compared to the intial change of vfr oil. The forks on the VFR are just adequate size wise.

so maybe your oil looks real bad and maybe it doesn't, generally street bike forks arent as beefy as offroad bikes.

A Top shelf excellent agm battery will read 13 volt freshly charged and hold that weeks later . you may have other issue, but a 12,2 battery in a rested state is not good.

I have my ktm 500 which is a dual sported offroad race bike , I try to atleast put a half hour or so on the vfr per week to keep gas running through it, but come riding time Its KTM all the way, just too much that you can do with that bike.

When I got the VFR I went street only for near 8 years (served its purpose), but missed the offroad capability and the exercise, ride the ditches, track , super moto , jumps, does it all.

I doubt I buy another street bike, but I'll keep the vfr , its still runs Mint condition in its post 100,000 mile age , the KTM aims to catch up. Ive had the KTM alittle over a year and pushing 15,000 miles, so the reliability is there for an offroad race bike, no motor issues at all thus far.

I still have a Daytona 675. Bought it before the bike ever hit the US soil, before the first road test ever was published. After 10 years and tons of track miles, I still have more fun riding it on the track than anything else.

I've always loved the look of those 675's. Beautiful machines.

definitely a track machine and no chance for any relaxiation, you get on one of those ,you are looking down straight to HELL!

^{Don't understand , if you know his insurance company and obviously its a company van, why is it hard to file a claim, plus you have the video. You can take pictures of the bike and get it fixed and still file with his insurance company.}

^{AGAIN, that's a company Van, you should have no isses}

Im probably the only VFR rider that has the least amount of issues with everything from electrics to thermostats and high mileage, I simply use a prestone mixes with anything at a 60%+ range + distilled. Been that way since the bike was new off the floor in its first month.

Now if you allowed the coolant system to degrade, to the point you need a cleaner, that's I factor I've never have to deal with.

I had oil worse than that after the first month(or at 5,000 miles) , all of my other changes greater than 35,000 miles have been good looking.

But you made the first change out and this oil still looks bad, how could that be?

Id say the black is coming from new bushings in combo with too little fork oil height , the vfr forks are just not adequate for anything aggressive, excessive fork movement in combo with new bushings, put a lot of black in your oil, imo.

BLS runs mobil 5w30 , Im kinda surprised people didn't catch on, when those uoa's were posted , and how little time he had on the oil, A normal timed oil change, his numbers would have been ugly.

They didn't look to bad , for 500 to 700 miles(that actually made them look better than they really were).

The whole reason they put the RR on the front of the 6th gen was for better air flow, you took a step back 20 years.

But I don't know how people kill stock RR;s mine has been flawless well over 100,000 miles. However, you placed yours around all kinds of heat, which should aide you entering the failed RR club.

I moved from the Rotella T6 5w-40 to Mobil 1 5w-30 Extended Performance due to the wear protection capability test data ranking M1 5w30 4th out of 176 oils tested.

Was that in a motorcycle engine or car?

Or if you were using Busy little shops numbers, from his uoa's, that show a lot of metal for a 700 mile max interval and really unsatisfactory. Yet he still spews the nonsense.

Im just wondering where your getting your information from.

I find the 2006 vfr has out standing stator life, and still on all original wiring, 111,000 miles on the second stator, both have yielded post 50,000 mile life.

I only run oem , have had a new stator ready to go for the last year , but have been mainly riding my KTM. Although the VFR gets ridden about once per week.

I try to get my 6th gen out once a week, I doubt I'll ever buy another street bike it does everything a street bike needs to do.

My Luv, is for my ktm 500 ,, total Hooligan bike, moocho exercise and world changing terrain capability.

Hi all, building a custom bike from alsorts of bikes and I have a VFR750 97 rear caliper question...

Had the caliper serviced, and just fitted new pads, the rotor is rubbing against the pads and I am not familiar with the caliper to know if this is normal ?

Took the caliper of just to check everything again and noticed the two pistons and not flush with the housing, is this normal for VFR750 ?

sounds normal with touching the rotor, the pistons being out at different degrees sounds weird unless you have some kind of weird play in the caliper mounting pins

Battery and stator sound okay(for now) or you wouldn't have gotten it started multiple times, but check all wiring under the seat, and the fuse slots, then pull the side panels and disconnect all connectors and inspect , wd40 works fine. to clean out and prevent, for anything that's not obviously damaged.

The pulse generator is totally separate on the vfr stator, so stator can be completely dead, and as long as you have battery output vfr will run fine.

Reviving the thread here.

I did a quick check on my recently purchased '99 and got the following (just took battery charger leads off prior to testing);

Bike off - 13.5 Volts

Idle - 14.3 Volts

5000 rpm - 14 Volts

What does that tell you? I'm new at this.

For a 5th gen, that sounds good, they don't quite have the output of the 6th gens, put the bright lights on when you do the 5000 rpm test or a lot gets shunted to ground, and why you see the voltage drop with rpm.

I always break that bolt lose with the chain on, other wise you need the special tool to hold the sprocket. It should have 20 ftlbs on it, which isn't much compared to some bikes have 100 ftlbs on them.

I would put the old chain back on to break lose, or new chain of course, you might need another master, or just go buy a cheap master link, just to mount the chain to break lose.

you really don't want a rivet link to do that, get a plain link ,,, then afterwards go back and install the rivet link on new chain

I assume the bike was ridden in winter salt country alot , or spent more time under the water hose than ridden.

So if I understand correctly, the CBR600 shock in the 6th gen is a pain in the ass to adjust the preload on?

Remote preload is nice for anyone(2 up or not), you also have more adjustments than a standard collar, normally 4 x the amount