FotoMoto

Nice project, but I have a suggestion. First, those lock washers look too big for the bolts. Second, I would have a large flat washer up against the bottom of the mount with the lock washer on top of that. Helps distribute the load across the bottom of the cast aluminum.

Good eye Kurt. They were the closest I had on hand. A larger washer will need to be trimmed to a D shape for clearance. I've also run bolts alone (that's how they come) with threadlock with no prob's.

Not meaning to hijack your thread FotoMoto... But your pictures reminded me of the question I had for a while: why do people replace their brake reservoirs with these... things?

Good question with at least two answers:

1. It's the matching master cylinder for the 6 pistion gsxr1000 calipers I have on the bike.

2. This design can give more clearance at full lock compared to the traditional design.

I also added a vtr1000f clutch m/c to match #1 and get the benefit of #2.

Makes it look like wheelbarrow in my opinion. Each to his own.

I would certainly use a color less conspicuous than gold.

Other than that, I don't think tall handlebars are too out of place on a VFR. The police VFR750P/800P look just fine... except for the mirrors maybe.

I was seriously considering the handlebar mod myself, but I think I'm starting to get used to the stock clip-ons.

You guys bring up another benefit: you can run whatever color and bar bend you want or even go old skool chrome. Here's another pic of a black bar I've used:

I prefer the gold bar on my vfr as it picks up the gold engine cover and 6 piston calipers quite nicely IMNSHO. :salesman:

Any problems with fairing interference at lock to lock turning?

On the vtec, none as it's fairing seems to have been designed with higher bars in mind. Its fairing upper "wings" don't curve back like many designs so no issues there. The 755 bar bend is high enough that it clears the top of the tank so no issues there. IIRC, even my large ass tank bag cleared OK too. It may have hit the horn button at full lock but I don't really recall.

On my superhawk, I did have to trim the fairing uppers for full lock. I had all ready gone to max on that bike with VFR clip ons which hit the headlamp switch at full lock but I wanted even more height and especially pull back. My current 4gen RCBVFR is such a mixed bag of parts that it doesn't really matter to others but I have no issues with the tank; however, it's very close on the fairing side so bar pitch/rotation in the mounts and switch/lever setup dictates that.

Very nice Doug!

What's the part # for the straight bar? It looks like that one would give dimensions(rise) close to stock if used with the standard risers?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GOLD-MOTORC...71133QQtcZphoto

So as you can see from the price of these bars plus the mounts, you're looking at less than 1/4 the price of LSL setups if you don't need longer throttle cables or brake lines. Inspecting the basically identical handlebar setup on my former Bandit1200S is what got me to try this myself and I've done it to each bike I've owned since then. :thumbsup:

Here's a quick how-to on adding real handlebars to your VFR which opens one up to countless combinations of reach, pullback, height, etc. I've done this mod to two VFR's and one SuperHawk since seeing that my former Bandit1200S had basically an identical setup stock from the factory. Actually it had larger holes for big rubber dampners to help with a bad buzz at highway speeds.

Although you can do the entire mod with the upper triple on the bike (I have), it's much easier in the long run to remove the fairing upper and the upper triple (referred to as the top bridge from here on) to give you more working room. Trust me. :wheel:

Here's what I have been using recently: TAG #4092 +5mm universal mounts, plus rubber spacers (probably from Lowes or somesuch), and lockwashers not included. NOTE: 4091 are standard height and 4093 are +10mm.

Next, I drill the top bridge at the casting marks (how convenient) with an 1/2 inch drill bit. Old rubber inner tube around it to lessen scratches from the vice.

Next, I add the mounts and bolt in the handlebar while it's still off the bike so I can cinch down the lock washers.

Then I remove the bar and the top sections of the mounts (don't skip this step) and slide the top bridge back on the bike. Tightened down the main nut (30mm) then loosely add the throttle assembly and switch gear to the handle bar and loosely bolt the handlebar back again into the lower mounts.

Add the fairing upper and start adjusting everything to fit from lock to lock. Depending on the bar specs you may need to reroute throttle cables, brake lines, and/or switchgear which this renthal 755 bar on the VTEC require all the above but nothing new/longer was needed.

Here's a couple of shots showing the difference in bar bends I've been using. The renthal 755 (upper bar) was on the vtec while the "straight" drag bar (lower bar) I'm using on the 4Gen RCBVFR. Pretty significant difference as you can see. Note the holes drilled to lock in the switchgear.

Here's a couple of comparison shots of a "daytona bend" (low rise) handlebar vs. stock clip ons on my old superhawk. This was the first bike I tried this mod on. The mounts on this one were very high (35mm) hence I got a flatter rise handlebar.

I shaved my seat down myself using a regular hand wood saw and some smaller hand saws. It doesn't look that great, but once the seat skin is back on you can't even really tell. Probably the most annoying part was getting the staples back in, but it worked and looks great!

Use an electric carving knife and throw a layer of batting (found in the sewing or crafts section) on top before re-covering.

An absolute masterpiece. (insert slow measured clap here). I is the MV Agusta of VFR's. Could you build a better shock res. mount though. That is the only thing that looks less than integrated on the whole project. And that's saying a lot after all the mods are seamless. :thumbsup: :idea3: :beer:

WOW, thanks Cap'n! And thanks to those for the featured thread front page move. :thumbsup:

mmmm, MV Agusta's sure look sweet and I'm seriously considering an MV black/CF paint scheme since I think they look so suh-weeeeeeet.

Yup, the shock reservoir mount MUST be improved. Either I'll fab up something or as Dutchy suggested I'll hack off the peg part of the mount.

Anyway, here's how it looks at the moment:

as I'm loading it up for a 1600+ mile extended weekend trip out to Big Bend National Park; a tank bag and rear seat bag are more than enough. This will be my fourth trip in two years. Yes, I now love that place. Weather forecasts are perfect. I'll post a trip and bike report when I get back. :wheel:

I had to get my butt in gear to make this and the Texas VFRd rides. I had a long list of things to fix/improve/make or basically git-ur-dun:

at least a month or so before. Nothing like a little stress to add to ride. :offtopic: Well I got most of the list done plus a cheap cosmetic rear wheel axle cover! :thumbsup:

I need details, details I say.

Wiring diagram, pin numbers, whatever.

BTW, could the fairing set back anoth inch or two so the semicircualr cutout meets the case better?

Basically you need the wiring schematics for both bikes and then it's pretty straightforward. I DL'ed the 1000 manual from somewhere on the net; sorry I forget from where exactly. I can burn you a copy of mine if need be. You'll need the RR headlight harness to plug into the back of the gauge. Cut connectors off both harnesses (yikes!), unwrap and start tracing wires. Not all that many are needed and some colors match up. Two power leads with one constant for clock and the other to the fuse box for a keyed source.

Like I said, the coolant unit is the biggest obstacle and a speedo healer is needed for correction factor.

Thanks for tidying up Baileyrock.

i really dont think that the 1000rr unit will work. i have a wiring diagram for it and it talks to the ecu on several lines. i cant recall correctly, but i dont think the coolant sensor even goes to the gauge cluster. it might, ill look at it when i can dig up the diagram.

Yup it works.

The upside: TACH WORKS NOW!!!!. Coolant works. Neutral, high beam, turn signals, oil pressure, and reserve fuel level (comes on at 5.1 gal) lights all work and function properly. The over rev light also works but on the 4gen that's not such a big deal as the limiter kicks in about the same time. Redline is the same as the 4gen (OK 100rpm higher for the anal types). Fits my 600rr upper stay and fairing perfectly. Very light. No damage; $150 shipped from epay. Two trips. Looks factory; well...... because it is, sort of. :blink:

Downside: now have a $300+ koso rx1n paper weight. Coolant gauge requires a different two lead sensor. 4gen is single lead and pegs the gauge at 270f when plugged in. I was able to use the sensor from my Koso so the paper weight isn't quite so heavy. Will get the 1000r unit later and sell koso. Just as mustang66 experienced with his 6000f4i gauge, the speedo is way off (by the power of 10 or thereabouts) and will need a speedohealer box to function correctly. Temp fix is putting my sigma 800 back on. Needs cbr headlight harness to mate to vfr harness (cut/splice a bunch of wires). No air temp or incremental fuel level only reserve notification.

Why a 3rd gen swingarm. 2 reasons.

One, bolts to the frame, easier to use.

Two, I had one left from a previous transaction.

I guess I should have asked, why aren't you using a 4g swingarm with the 4g frame? Having a 3g all ready in house is a good reason!

Sounds like a lot of fun! Why the 3gen swingarm?

Did you get your instruments working correctly? Do you have good written instructions on the wiring? I may want to steal your hard work.

I have a set of VF1000R gauges I WAS going to put on my RC211V replica, but that looks so much more fitting!

Bad news I'm afraid: see phase one thread:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...32026&st=30

I love it! The gold crank cover is awesome! Great photos too! What camera are you using! Surely not a point and click!

Well here's another cover shot (pun intended).

Yup, not a P&S although I have quite a few of those. I'm a photographer (fotomoto get it?)and these were shot with my work gear.

Well it's just about done but I doubt it ever will be finished. :joystick:

Internal: converted to H7's, new oil lines, oil/coolant change, and factory jet kit installed. Next I added an "extra" gsxr r/r upfront between the forks. The upgraded honda unit is stilled wired in also but unplugged. I also added a voltmeter so I will know if I need to switch to the backup.

External: flush mounts, mirror mounts (from VFRd lobster), painted engine cover, and bar ends.

Any luck getting tech support with your gauge issue?

Doug,

The Koso gauge issue isn't looking good. I'm bummed. Tech support (French Canadians) has been helpful and courteous but couldn't get the tach issue (not accurate at all) solved even after bringing in two company engineers. Official answer: it's made for newer style ignition systems. WTH? All the other functions I have connected work GREAT. I'm going to try a CBR1000RR unit next.

I've also been working on some other things:

1) Got Silverstar H7's installed as the modified H4's threw out a funky beam pattern in the CBR housing. Back to the winky look now but the pattern is normal.

2) Marine grade voltmeter ($8 on ebay!) installed.

3) 06 GSXR 600 R/R with 43 miles on it installed. Bonus: came with OEM mounting bracket/horn that I installed between the fork legs. It's wired in parallel with the stock system which is unplugged. IOW, I have a backup system on board and wired in. I just need to plug/unplug between the two. Kinda' cool I think.

4) Pulled and cleaned carbs, added factory jet kit and carb sync. Motor runs so much better and smoother now. Example: pulling up to an intersection but not coming to a complete stop, I can leave it in 2nd and smoothly pull away (it's geared also).

5) Mirror spacer mounts so I can see better with the wider superbike bars.

6) Flush mount front turnsignals (as requested by posters)

7) Correct size front tire (came with a 60 series)

8) Nicer condition oil lines (originals were heavily corroded)

9) Painted and/or polished engine covers (originals corroded)

10) Oil and coolant change/flush (coolant probably still original; catch tank had heavy deposits)

11) Didn't take pictures as I was too damn busy doing the first 10 things! Sorry, will post some later.

And on that note, we'll see what the fender eliminator kit looks like when it arrives. But for now - not bad! Total cost --- $4.99 for the spray paint and an hour's worth of sweat and swearing. That's it! LOL. Here's what it looks like. Whaddya think?

I did this on my first vtec back in 2003 but the thread was lost a year or two later in a crash. I love free mods! I don't count the cost of the paint as I all ready had it on hand. :salesman:

Another coincidence: I added the Canadian Ken kit to my 96 RCBVFR (uses a vtec subframe).

Suh-weet!

Looks great Yack. How does it feel?

Hey Steph,

The mods look GREAT! I think I will try this double layer look on my RCBVFR side covers.

Just notice that you say your de-linked vtec weighs in at 441lbs. How did you take off nearly 100lbs?

Can't be bothered with another edit! That bike is magazine feature quality, after Safe-T's n'th degree effort with Murphy, FotoMoto's bike gets my vote as the next VFRD showcase bike!

WOW, I don't know what to say except: Thank You!

I actually got to ride it around this evening after tying up several loose ends. I was riding on egg shells; fearing either I'd drop it or something would come loose and kill me. :beer: After about 15 minutes of putt-putting around the neighborhood, I took it out on some longer streets and actually wacked it open a couple of times. WOO-HOO! :huh:

Now it's back to the garage to alter and fix some things and then maybe this weekend give a good thrashing as some of you say. :goofy:

For some reason it made me think about using an oldschool Campagnolo bicycle headset.

Now that looks suh-weeeet but most things high-end bicycling are high $$$. Are these? Probably so. I'm trying to keep this cheeeeeep.

Fotomoto,

Length? Special features required?

Send me a drawing and I'll have it made, if we don't have any friends wiuth a lathe! :salesman:

The length is relatively unimportant since the hub is hollow but as you can tell from the pics it's not that long. The "axle" could have a better fit inside the wheel hub. Currently, I have the lock nuts/washer assembly wrapped in electrical tape to make it an interference fit within the wheel hub hole. Not high tech but it works. Now the specs for the cover are more important if that is what you are referring to about length, i.e., circumference. I'll have to measure it more accurately if you need figures for a lathe. Hmm, group buy anyone?

A little more thread showing and a cotter key to assure no loss nuts on the freeway. I hate when that happens.

Can I steal your idea now?

Yeah, there is plenty of threading on it to extend it further out. I'm thinking 3 or 4 threads for a more realistic look.

Please feel free to steal, copy, and/or modify this! But if you make improvements or come up with something better/different, you must post it.

OK, it just looks like one. :goofy: I've always loved the look of the single nut rear wheels but the costs were just too high. Even the cool Thurn motorsports cover isn't cheap. By sheer coincidence, I happen to be looking at the bent triple I had removed from my 4gen while thinking about ordering the cover. BINGO! I can't believe it fit the center hole of my 6gen rear wheel. Got out the cutting wheel and got busy.

I used some of the nuts and washers from the steering head bearings. There are two sets of threads with different OD's. My thumb is in between them in the above photo. I threaded the two larger nuts and a washer on to the larger threads which will be on the backside of the wheel.

Next, I cut some black plastic as a template for the cover. Now that I see it will work, I'll get a machine shop to copy and make one out of aluminum. There went the free part. I then threaded the chrome nut we typically see on the top of the steering neck onto the smaller threads locking down the cover. the plastic cover doesn't sit flush along the outside edge due to the pressure from the nut. A metal cover wouldn't be affected like this.

To complete the look, I'll need to drill the nut/threads for a cotter pin. Don't look at the unmounted brake reservoir , that's next on the list of things to finish.

That F4i plastic looks really good. That may be more my taste than the 600RR stuff, even. How difficult was it to mate that F4i stuff?

Check out this thread:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=31254