The Phantom

Hiya Marty!

The R1 clip-ons are too low to work with the VFR fairings, you need Convertibars or HeliBars.

You use the R1 front brake lever/cylinder assembly, but as you are running higher bars you need longer brakelines.

Keep the stock Honda switchgear and clutch lever assembly (or switch to a VTR1000F clutch lever assembly if you want to match the clutch fluid pot to the R1 brake fluid pot).

Love it, thanks for sharing Larry.

Yep, I think you should do some upgrades to your bike Scotty

As the light gets into the higher 'K levels, blue transitioning to purple, it gets useless for lighting the road.

The ricers and BMW/merc fanbois love them because they look kewl, but you really can't see a damn thing once you leave the city limits at night.

And you definitely don't want to try to drive/ride in the rain at night with HIDs of higher temperature than 6000k.

As Randy said, cheaper kits don't last very long, you need to spend a bit to get reliable hardware.

A better option than just slinging HID lamps into reflectors not designed for them is to fit HID projectors. If you are happy to take the housing apart - it's easy - then these things are just about plug and play... the projector is designed to fit into a H4 housing and is secured by threaded lockrings, and then you get sensational low/high beam but without blinding oncoming drivers, because the projector has a very good cut-off pattern.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=927

To each his own beck. I think people are allowed to do what they want with their money per specific taste. Your idea of good handling and another riders idea of good handling are in most scenarios, not the same.

I have to agree. Beck used the 170 D207 as an example of a wider tyre upsetting his handling, well I ran exactly the same tyre/rim combo and loved it to bits. No problems with 9/10ths cornering (on a private track under controlled conditions etc. etc. etc.) and the only downside for me was that both front and rear were toast after barely 5,000km. I did run a 160 D207 as well and it did handle better, but I certainly had no problem with handling with the oversize rubber.

So to state that wider rubber will ruin your handling is categorically impossible, giving the variations in set-up and rider preference out there. Also need to consider that the VFR is a very forgiving bike and you can really screw things up a lot and still be able to ride it with a high degree of comfort and confidence.

I agree with the comments regarding the way the bead is seated and the importance of it being correct, but I won't comment on the pics shown because how can you make a judgement based on pictures? It could be that the bead is seated perfectly safely in the example(s) shown.

Hi Dave, welcome to VFRD.

My guess is that they will have smaller bolt-to-bolt dimensions than the 4th Gen - most CBR mirrors are like this. Get those measurements and compare to yours and you'll know (or someone here certainly will).

More info on this - if you want to run a Ducati wheel, the 1098 wheel won't fit, nor will the wheel off some of the more recent high-performance Monsters, and the Streetfighter. They have a larger diameter axle.

You need a 916 - 996 - 998 - 848 wheel.

Yeah that's where I posted mine too

Good to see this project still coming along

Towards the end of its racing career, RC45s were running 6.5" rims with visibly noticable offset, and they seemed to go round the corners ok.

^ I like that - it doesn't stand out any more than it should and the black lug nuts set it all off nicely.

Who's going to be the first to run a cop setup on their 4th gen?

I'll have a crack at it

Aaaaand a quick stalk of Dutchy's profile gives us this - looks good. There is a lot of 'Aussie' going on in that pic :)

^ That's the other one I was thinking about, but couldn't remember who made it

Painted black it makes the wheel look like a single-nut fitment. I think Dutchy has got one?

Thurn Motorsport in Germany:

Few more data points.

Not on Fireblades.org, but someone did it fairly simply on a Blade... no mention of how long it lasted though.

http://www.rrzone.co...72191#post72191

I found someone who switched to COP on a FZR600 and went on to rack up 15,000 miles on the bike with no problems:

http://www.fzronline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3187

And his how-to:

http://www.fzronline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=6316

Perhaps Fireblades.org has someone who's taken COP sticks from a later CBR and fitted them to an earlier model... not that I am advocating stealing IP from another forum

But if someone has done this mod to a Honda, that's the logical place where it would be documented...

OK I'm with you. Here's what a 90 degree V4 would do - two pistons at TDC at the same time.

Ok, well I could see how it would work like that. I wonder if this setup would cause some interesting vibrations... Kind of a poorman's biggish bang. Do you have any links to the one you've seen?

Not any more - it was done by a guy named Matt Wallace on the old VFR mailing list when John Perkins was running it. He rode it around like that for a while and said it sounded a little different but rode about the same, then switched it back to normal, IIRC simply because he could find no advantage to running it twin-twingled.

VFR750 crank:

If we put a piston on each conrod, and then put those pistons into their respective bores, I believe we would have two pistons at TDC and two pistons at BDC, the angle of the V would have no bearing on this whatsoever.

RC45 crank, for reference:

^ Well on a 750 you can lift one cam on each bank, rotate it laterally and reinstall it. That way each bank fires at the same time so you could in effect have both cylinders in each bank at TDC simultaneously.

The bike will run just fine like this, it's been done before.

I don't see how this would work on any of the 180 degree motors as one piston will always be at BDC when the other is at TDC per bank. I could see how it would work on a 360 degree motor though.

When you 'twin-twingle' the V4, your pairing changes from across the bank to across the V... so you do in fact get both paired pistons at TDC at the same time. Whether this is relevant to the discussion I'm not sure - I am only about 80% up on the content here so far, but will learn more because I want to run a coil on plug set-up too :)

^ Well on a 750 you can lift one cam on each bank, rotate it laterally and reinstall it. That way each bank fires at the same time so you could in effect have both cylinders in each bank at TDC simultaneously.

The bike will run just fine like this, it's been done before.

Came across this diagram from the 1986 VFR750 F-G microfiche, don't know if it helps...

Lovely bike, thanks for posting the scans up. And as always, it takes something special to get vfroem out of lurk

Wow, that's an interesting way to go about it. The CBR1000R swingarm is certainly a lot prettier than the VFR ones.

Keep us posted! Sorry I can't help on the wheel fitment info, but looks to me that you are 90% of the way there already.