The Phantom
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Posts posted by The Phantom
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I can't pull the bike on the center stand anymore, without the help of someone pulling the bike backwards.
I lowered the back witch the 'rotate the triangle method' and dropped the front so it measures 64mm from the top of the forks, to the triangle plate.
What can I do?
How's your technique? You need to:
1. Put foot on centrestand tang and push to the ground
2. Right hand under lifting handle above left pillion peg
3. Left hand on left bar
Now simultaneously push down with your foot, pull up on the lifting handle, and pull back on the bar. Normally this should result in a smooth controlled lift onto the stand with very little effort. As you are lifting higher the effort required will be more, but still manageable.
Edit: forgot to say, nice work on the sidestand mod!
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I understand there is quite a bit of pent-up demand in the VFR community for these (at the right price), I am surprised that nobody has decided to manufacture another limited run.
These, and performance full header systems. I'm looking into the possibility of getting my Indigo full system replicated, I'll see about having the Wolf riser pipe copied too (virtually any canisters could be used).
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... or an over under shotgun on LHS
That too would look trick. Rob, do you have a full system?
Something I neglected to mention is that there is a lot of scope for really tidying up the undertail area. You can see in the pics I posted that the new inner fender runs right back (in the last pic I'd cut it to match the rearmost section of the subframe). Originally it was to run past that, and then down to become a bracket for the rear bodywork/lamp. I've still gone with that, however the bracket in question now bolts onto the rear of the new inner fender. In addition to this there is also a bracket that locates the twin canisters - the Wolf bracket was rubbish, as was the plate bracket. Pics to follow.
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Oh well, I've still got Murray cheering me on. :unsure:
YAY ROB! :thumbsup:
It's a piece of cake, just get some aluminium sheet and go for it!
Or, go with Plan B, a pair of high left/right cans like RC51 :salesman:
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Another pic:
border='0' alt='user posted image' />Img_0719.jpg
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My data is not for a Gen 5, but I can't imagine it could be too different.
I got a pair of Wolf canisters, a riser-Y pipe, and the rear mounting bracket and licence plate bracket when I picked up my system - no undertray included. The understanding that I have is that what Wolf provided was fairly basic anyway.
I just decided to make a new inner fender, and I started by making cardboard templates (apologies for the pic quality, taken on a phone camera a few years back):
border='0' alt='user posted image' />templates.jpg
From these, I cut sheet aluminium to the templates, and bent it to suit, then had an OzVFR mate tee up a former colleague who was handy at welding aluminium:
border='0' alt='user posted image' />alloy undertray.jpg
As the upper rails kink in towards each other where they mount to the main frame, I had to put a fold in each side and bend it in slightly, so the front-most face of the box is actually trapezoidal in shape. This makes it really easy to drop the box out of the subframe, so it was a worthwhile mod.
The shape of the rear section that goes over the top of the canisters was dictated by the height of the canisters, and the crossbrace that sits under the pillion seat.
The 'sunken' part over the riser pipe is so that the original seat lugs that slip inside the frame rails and prevent lateral movement could remain; I couldn't be bothered working out a different way to address this although it ended up being a fair bit of work. I made a CF cover for the riser pipes which is to be riveted in place. The oblique shape of the cut-out is because the y-pipe is offset, the 5th Gen Wolf riser was more symmetrical.
Because of the size of the battery box, the rear pair of coils had to be relocated to the side of the bike - this was simply a mistake I made by not planning well enough. And even though the box is bigger, it's still not big enough to provide practical storage, it will only fit a battery, a toolkit and a puncture kit - I'd make it even bigger next time around (as if that's going to happen).
As far as ride height goes - I cut the rear subframe gusset under the seat lock to allow the canisters to sit about 20mm higher - this meant that they sat a bit closer to the front of the bike (i.e. the rake of the riser pipe was decreased).
I then flipped my eccentric, but this isn't an option for you
Although you only have 6" clearance ATM, once the plastic inner fender is out you should find you can get the canisters closer to the seat. Then you'll probably have to rely on a shimmed shock to get any additional clearance you require. At 3.25" dia, your canisters will help a lot, and if the Gen 5 subframe rails are 8" apart like on the Gen 4, you should be able to get them fitted with a 1.5" gap between them which will further aid clearance.
The Wolf cans are 4" diameter, I had to use a hydraulic jack to spread the frame rails by 0.25" to give enough clearance for my inner fender.
The seat needed to have some plastic trimmed away to clear the new inner fender when the seat is being slid into place. I've also covered the underside with adhesive insulative foil.
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Joe,
The Evo Star is a relatively recent addition. People have been reporting great results from the original kit without the star for years.
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The factory pro website doesn't have a listing for my '91..and I am assuming the '93 is the same? Help?
Yep, same from 90-97.
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Or you could spend the $200.
Well I think I will - have always been interested in the Factory shift kit, and the Star wheel makes it that much better again. As has been mentioned, shifting is something that you're always doing, so you might as well enjoy it more.
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Great write-up and a good front-page feature. Thanks JetPilot, Trace, and HS.
Why not just mod the OEM star to replicate the Evo Star? Always looking for something to Dremel :lol:
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You're way too perceptive, Phantom! I knew there was something else I needed to do the other day. The feeler that's on there is going into the drawer with a couple others I've got. I lubed the chain right after the pics were taken, but I need a new one badly anyway. It's on the list.... :D I wouldn't have expected anything less. The bike just looks better and better, lovely work.
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Wow I was right, this really did turn into an oil filter thread!
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Goodie, an oil filter thread :beer:
I have used the Yamaha filter for some time, ever since I saw this post to the big list back in 2000.
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P.S. I tried to throw in a plug for the site but it looks like it didn't make it into the article
Too late now, but perhaps it would be worth putting a low-key "www.vfrdiscussion.com" decal on the bike somewhere?
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Way cool, Rick :thumbsup:
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Very smooth, Magellan.
Two suggestions:
1. Lose the left peg feeler (or find the right-hand one)
2. Lube the chain
: )
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Shifting with your left hand, huh? You wacky "Down Under-ers", you! [so what dya think of your Holden getting the Vette motor, changing the steering to the correct side of the car :lol:, and coming to Murka as a Pontiac?]
(Sorry late response - some crazy pagan festival came along and kept me offline for a few weeks)
It's pretty cool, although it appears that the Goat buyers want something a bit wilder. Holden has just cut production of the Monaro so I guess Pontiac didn't sell enough of them...
There was also an AWD version available here which was a bit of fun, if a bit on the heavy side.
The sedan and ute continue, and the sports models are getting the 6 litre motor now :thumbsup:
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Nice mod and write-up Trace. I'll get one for my bike and follow your tips for the install.
I agree with your points regarding the pros of a shift light; my guess is that if you need to ask why? then you don't need a shift light... I remember running my 383 Chev down the quarter 15 years ago, one hand on the Mr Gasket shifter (LEFT hand of course! :P ), just waiting for that light to go off so I could shift the Top Loader up a gear and nail it again :thumbsup:
On the bike (yeah yeah I know it's been a while, sit down Ian) I love drowning in the noise the donk makes at 10k+, but at those revs I find that there's usually an apex to concentrate on - if not another bike also going just as hard. A little flash will work nicely for me.
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I dunno, can you provide more pictures of your lovely and talented spokesmodel who is carefully displaying the airbox lid? :salesman:
Agreed, can't quite see enough in the first pic to be able to make an edumacated comment :lol:
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Damn, that yellow 5th gen and charcoal (?) 4th gen are the nicest looking examples of each that I've ever seen. Thanks for keeping the inspiration coming!
You're welcome.
Not charcoal :lol: I was keen to see how a matte black finish would look, and the bike required repainting anyway, so away I went with 400-grade wet and dry... it looks like hell up close but I got the effect I was after!
Tell you what, though - starting in on the tank was VERY difficult, as it was relatively unmarked. The factory black gloss is a lovely colour, 'coca-cola' in sunlight with nice pearl metallic hues.
The bike was 'mocked up' for that pic:
- CBR1100XX mirror is held in place with wire
- Rear bodywork is missing a piece where it meets the indicator (since repaired)
- NR-style aluminium scoop under bellypan is just silver spraypaint
- Mesh side panels are actually silver-painted flyscreen...
- No brakes or drivechain
But it served its purposes - told me I was on the right track with my mods, and more importantly inspires me to get on with it when the project starts to drag its heels... which is often! To give you an idea, I have an email from Safe-T from 2002 asking me "did you ever finished painting your bike?" :goofy:
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However, I'm debating about the heat shield...because it....well.....shields heat from yer laage! I made a test run the other day with it off....yikes! The vicious radiant heat, not to mention the hot air coming out of there too, is HOT!! Mebbe the Jet-Hot coating will make it bearable. Believe me, I'd like to see as much of these pipes as possible.
Yep, same goes for the 94-97 VFR if you lose the steel heatshield that bolts to the back of the RH footpeg assembly. But it looks grand without it :goofy:
Not quite as good as an 800, mind you - there's a lot less plumbing on display:
http://www.ozvfr.net/gallery/Phantom-restoration-pics/aba
Looking forward to *your* pics now Trace!
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Just for the Phantom. Thanks for the suggestion. Now how do I keep it this way without making my wife feel excluded? Guess I have to buy her that 636 she wants... :joystick:
You don't muck around :goofy:
With the 'hidden' outlet and no rear pegs, I think this is possibly the cleanest looking VFR rear end I've seen.
If you go with JetHot, and are prepared to pull the whole system off, the rear bank header pipes look pretty amazing when coated. Especially if you leave the upper heat shield off...
http://www.vfrworld.com/images/list/don_wright.jpg
Oh, and tell your wife to forget about the 636 - the new magic number is 675...
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All done! Here are the pics
Very sharp Magellan. I'm all for recycling :lol:
I've also been wrestling with where/how to mount the licence tag under the Wolf system. I like your solution but it does hide what you've done, also I imagine it mutes the sound a little? Which probably would be a good thing with my system...
Can you post some daylight pics, with the seatcowl fitted? (I'm assuming you have one). I'm thinking the red canister + seatcowl will give a nice symmetrical look to the rear end of your bike (and perhaps you could consider losing the rear peg brackets just for the pic B) )
Gee, I wish I'd finished my Wolf installation already, underseat exhausts are becoming so passe :beer:
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I have never seen shims, so I was hoping to see one and how they are used etc.
Is there 1 kind of shim for VFR's for multiple places or many kinds of shims?
Shim is simply another term for 'spacer'. If you've ever placed a folded cardboard coaster under a table leg to level the table, then you have 'shimmed' the table.
Shims are also used as part of the valve clearance adjustment for gear-driven VFRs - in this case they are simply a small metal disc cut to a specific thickness and marked as such.
The shim that works best on the VFR shock is a simple U-shape used for adjusting camber on cars, as per this:
http://www.cliphouse.com/ImagesProducts/PSN116-T.gif
Just ask your local car tyre dealer for two or three, probably won't even charge you if he knows you.
Wheel Polishing
in Modifications
Posted
Good info there, Bent. Some questions for you:
1. What's 'brite dip' anodising? I take it it gives a more polished look than normal anodising.
2. What's on the frame of the 4th Gen? and what's the best way to cut through it in order to polish the frame?
In Oz we have a few companies that strip and nickel-plate wheels - looks good, like a cross between the harsh look of chrome and the soft lustre of polished aluminium, has a bit of a gold hue to it. Pricey though.
I've had my wheels fully polished since 1999 and they still look good, just need a bit of work from time to time. I recommend California Custom Purple polish for the most low-effort/high polish result around (and believe me I've used a lot of polishes). I have some Nyalic now and will coat the wheels with it when I get around to cleaning them up again, Nyalic is one of the better clearcoats available.