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SEBSPEED

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Posts posted by SEBSPEED

  1. What are you doing here Marty? Have your son post the pics for you, get back to work! +1.gif

    I'm feeling the crunch myself, I just got my spring on the rear shock swapped today, still need to do the fork seals and springs... and wetsand, and buff, and add the camera mount, and install a bunch of other little stuff, and, and, and... :beer:

    Oh yeah, then I need to dial everything in and make sure its good... I'd like to do my shakedown run at home!

    Keep up the good work!! :thumbsup:

  2. Thats pretty sweet. Interesting map. I always like to compare various maps. I predict it will use more fuel though, take a look at your cruising rpm ranges at 20-40% throttle. I think thats where a lot of gas is used. Report your mileage back.

    Those numbers look great. I'd like to have seen a bone stock base run on the same dyno.

    Just as any "resident PC guru" would! :rolleyes:

  3. Now mind you it was probably before the recent rains when they shot this Satellite photo and the campground was a little greener and packed but you can really see where I was. I will not have to steal any more of Sebspeeds pictures for my trip report.

    :lol: :lol: And I was about to let you sponser a road trip in California for me, in exchange for pics from the 101!! :P Great little gadgets, those GPS's are. I had a Magellan unit that I took with me on my big trip, but I never even turned it on... just used directions I printed out from Yahoo maps...

  4. 1.5" clear acrylic. I made about 40 sets for 5th and 6th gen bikes for folks here on the forum. I think it's a nice addition as you can see behind you MUCH better. There's nothing fancy about them. If you can find the acrylic, some longer metric bolts and you have access to a bandsaw and a sander, you too can make them without much trouble. I think even GenMar sells them for about $60 / pair.

    Shoot, I think I have some of this out in the garage... :goofy:

  5. Good points Seb, Darren and I talked about the engine bolts as well. I think that would be the way to go. As for the centering plugs - I think he plans to include a pair with each set of sliders.

    I'll try to get a couple of up close pics of the base where it attaches to the engine bolt.

    I know that Darren has a couple extra sets turned of the bases, and he was about to turn the plastic. He's away for the weekendm but I'm sure he'll chime in next week.

    :thumbsup:

    Cool, I'll keep an ear on the ground, a nose in the air, and an eye on this thread... :salesman:

  6. Nice job! Looks like they're in a good place to protect the rads and engine covers. Any pics of the slider base where it faces the engine bolt? Just curious.

    And a suggestion for Radar, if you wish to make more of these as a kit, I would buy extra engine bolts and tap them, then include them and their price in the kit. It makes it more appealing to people that way, as all they'd have to do is spend $$, without having to track down a machine shop and then wait for them to do the job.

    And one more, maybe offer the "centering plugs" with a deposit, so buyers could return them, and you wouldn't have to make so many?

    All that said, I might buy a set, if you're making them... smile.gif

  7. Wouldn't hurt to try, anyway. This is one of the things I'd like to try with my vtec 'zorst one day too.

    The advantage of putting perforated core in, rather than just leaving all the guts out, is that you will get better exhaust gas flow.

    Plus it should sound better (less like a clapped-out muffler).

    Maybe if the perforations were very small. Too large a hole (1/8th inch or more), and I don't think it would do much without the packing as well. The packing serves to absorb the sound waves, but also to guide the zorsted particles out. It seems to me that running the core without the packing would create turbulence, and decrease the velocity of the gases, hurting the power output. Or summat. :joystick:

  8. Eggs Zachary what I was going to suggest, but without the packing. You should be able to get s/steel perforated core from any muffler shop (or at least those that make their own mufflers). I bought some core a couple of years ago when I was trying to quieten my butchered (not by me) zorsts on my VTR1000.

    If you were to put perforated tube in the zorst, it would be essentially the same as most aftermarket ones, except the heavy-duty stainless that Sankei use to make these things would make it resonate/vibrate less, so if anything it would sound better.

    Wouldn't hurt to try, anyway. This is one of the things I'd like to try with my vtec 'zorst one day too.

  9. Fork out the $$$'s. Your VFR deserves it.

    I've seen a lot of different exhaust brands, and as a fabricator and (certified aerospace)welder, I have to say, that there are some out there that I would not put on my vfr. If I can make the same or better on my own for less, why pay someone? :rolleyes:

  10. You know, if you'r eleft with an empty round can, you could source a replacement core(round perforated tube) from one of the aftermarket companies, and use that inside your stock can, with some steel wool or fiberglass packing. Shouldn't be too hard since you can weld, and you'll have much less invested in that, than in a "real" staintune, with the stealth look of a factory part! :thumbsup:

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