SEBSPEED

The length of insertion in the neck is the same. You MUST remove your lower bearing and measure the height of the old stem above the top surface of the lower triple BEFORE pressing it out. (the new one should be the same) You will need to press the new stem in to the same height and this can get a little tricky, depending on how good of a job you do grinding the steel stem out, and also on the availability of bushings for the press - you will likely need to insert the new stem past flush. Sockets usually work well for that.

The obvious clue you're missing here, is that all but a few Hondas since 1983 use the same size steering bearing... all those stems are the same diameter at the base.

Given that info, and knowing that the CBR600 & liter-size stems and VFR stems are the same length, makes it easy to say that with the correct set of tools, talent, and method, these could be interchanged.

I utilize a bolt loaded in shear to aid in stem retention when I build custom triples, and I would suggest you do the same if moving a stem from a steel triple to an aluminum one (no shoulder).

1000rr offset is NOT the same, it's only 25mm.

VFR stem base diameter is the same, you can grind the weld off press it out and press it into the aluminum cbr lower -IF- you measure everything and install the VFR stem to the correct height. once the height is set you can secure it by cross drilling and inserting a shear pin.

Much easier to replace with another cbr part!

Did you have the slides out when you soaked the carbs?

Yes, and yes.

If you end up having to ship it somewhere, I'm available. I love welding cast aluminum! :-)

Nobody likes a tease!!

Did the kit include the float needles and jets?

Should be able to see light through all the jets. Use a high pitch guitar string to clean those

They've been prefect for years and years now.

Was that a pun?

It's aluminum oxidation. It happens over time. No need to worry about pressure loss.

If it bothers you enough on a "forever" bike, then take some time to shop for a nice spare, and have it professionally refinished before installing.

Not exactly what you're asking for, but white showerboard (laminated luann) works very well as a dry erase board, and it's cheap. You could easily hang them over every workstation for an easy visual indicator of progress.

Use an old candle or WD40 to lube your cutting tools.

Super blue is NLA???

I have plenty left, shoot me a PM to get the ball rolling.

Congrats!

PPG formulas for both the earlier VFR silver colors are listed in a thread here. Go to Google and search "PSA Paint VFRDiscussion", it will come up.

Nevermind, here you go: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/29748-public-service-announcement/

I have used most of them with good results, as shown in the thread.

WTF guys!!

Would be in as well Seb.

Would they just unbolt to remove - use pitbull for transport.

Yes, remove 1 M6 bolt (5mm Allen key, same as bodywork) to remove entire assembly for transport, wheel removal, etc.

Just PMed you.

PM replied. Pic didn't come through, try emailing

Definitely interested m8, price & postage may be an issue though.

I'm not a huge fan of frame sliders as I believe they can increase the amount of damage on all but virtually stationary crashes. So what's the benefit of rear hub & forksliders - do those parts get scratched/deformed if the bike goes down?

I was looking to buy the Thurn Motorsports rear wheel insert, but that has no protection role, just aesthetic but happy to support a fellow VFRD'r, just need to understand why we need sliders in those positions.

Thanks.

These parts will fit in a pretty small box, so postage shouldn't be too bad.

A slider on the hub side serves to protect the expensive and sometimes difficult to replace hub nut, axle end, and cush drive casing. I have seen these damaged in crashes.

The fork sliders will save damage to the wheel edges, fork ends, and brake calipers. All are parts which could add up to be the deciding factor between an easy fix or a total loss as judged by an insurance provider.

Thanks, I hope to have some numbers soon!

That looks sharp bud! Good work!

Saddlebags make the best tail protectors, bar none.

If you had trouble with it, you should have run a tap in to clean up the threads.

You don't need to torque those bolts down, either. Snug + 1/4 turn in a criss cross pattern will do it nicely.

Cutting the top out springs doesn't limit the fork travel, it increases it.

You can cut your top-out springs in half too, and add the length to the preload spacer.