V4 Rosso

On 4/25/2021 at 9:24 PM, Dutchy said:

The 150 Sport in the correct factory red

 

That would make a nice postcard

I had the same issue with a K&N oil filter. Had bought my VTEC from a dealer a couple of months earlier. I was cruising the autobahn at 100+ mph, going home after spending a week riding the German Harz region with a couple of buddies, when the oil pressure warning light came on. Immediately hit the kill switch and was fortunate enough to be very close to an exit and have enough speed to coast to a byway. Rear tire was covered in oil, so was my left boot and it felt slippery when I kicked out the side stand. Bike was towed back to the dealer and he swapped the engine out of precaution and because he felt bad for me because this was the second time I got stranded with the bike (first time was a blown out stator).

 

I've seen this also happen with HiFlo oil filter with welded on hex nut. Never use these!

Hi V4 Rosso,

Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

On 25-3-2017 at 5:56 PM, Dutchy said:

Spring is in the air!

 

 

Also on the north side of the river

There is a mile long concert hall a few minutes riding from his home.

 

I agree with keny, these pipes will look better without decals.

Most buy a helmet that matches their bike.  You, off course, do it the other way 'round.

Congrats on the new ride

And they could have shown or talked about some of the real fine details that are easy to miss from pictures of the whole bike.

There are just too many

Nice having it featured, well deserved

Thanks!

Yes, I was thinking about going a similar route. I too have a fibreglass fairing awaiting to be painted and installed as my current fairings have to many battle scars and good replacements are hard to find and/or very expensive. Also VFRD member keny generously donated me a dash from an RC24 that should give me some more room too.

Did you also had to move the oil cooler? I was thinking of relocating it to somewhere just in front of the radiator or the headers as in the stock position the oil hoses are not spaced far apart and rub the fork uppers.

Did you modify the front subframe in any way, as the only thing I don't like about this setup is that the big and wide USD forks do not have a lot of room to rotate.

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Looking down the right fork leg you can see it touching the subframe

Btw. that exhaust on your 3rd gen, it doesn't look much like a silencer, is it just a straight piece of ss pipe??

Very nice, looking forward to seeing some shots of the whole bike.

The cush drive assembly is based on a Ducati quick change unit from JT and I've used a set of urethane bobbins instead of the genuine Ducati SilentBloc rubber ones.

In the end this has shaved 3.0kg off the unsprung weight on the rear.

vfroem, are you still here?

I have a 16 mm radial m/c off of an R6 that I'm considering trying. Given the larger diameter piston, I'm expecting about a 14% increase in effort but a corresponding decrease in lever travel. With the benefits of a radial's more rigid mount, I'd expect better feel.

If the pivot distance of both brake master clinders is the same, expect an increase in effort of 30% (a 16mm. brake master cilinder is 30% larger than the 6th gen 14mm master cilinder). If the pivot distances are not equal, and that is not unlikely as e.g. Brembo radials come in 16,18 & 20mm pivot distance. I don't know what the pivot distance is of the 6th gen but on my 3rd gen it is roughly 25mm. If the 6th gen is close to that number it could add another 30% extra effort.

I would check & clean the pads and discs before anything else. As the others have said, the stock brake setup is more than adequate and you should have not problem lifting the rear wheel when braking.

Because I wasn't able to pre-pump the cartridge with oil (because I didn't have a long enough tool to grab the damper rod and

You don't need a special tool, next time attach some rope to the damper rods.

C. My spanner wrenches were so thick that I couldn't get one on the damper adjuster and one on the lock nut.

I wouldn't feel comforatble tightening the lock nut just by hand.

My real concern is whether or not oil is able to make its way into the cartridge if it wasn't pre-pumped in prior to the fork cap being tightened (creating some sort of air pressure issue?). I don't know enough about forks/suspension to know.

Yes, the oil will make it into the cartridge no problem.

It looks good from every angle. I think you could not have picked a better colour for this bike, beautiful

Are you benig asked often as to what brand/model bike it is?

What a fantastic looking bike, great job Seb

Excellent choise of parts, it all matches perfectly.

I thought I saw a pic of a metal version (That will not wear out?)

I doubt a metal joint will last that much longer. And if it does: I'd rather have that €6 nylon wear out over 50K mls than both the joint and the far more expensive speedo sensor drive pin after 100K.

I think this one comes close:

There was also a dark green OEM colour, quite a bit darker than BRG but I think it looks nice:

More is comming.....

Looking forward to it

And welcome to VFRD!

If one fits stronger clutch springs (like +10%), do you still torque the bolts to the spec as per the manual?

Yes, as in this configuration the torque value has no relation to the spring tension.

Plain SS and not some coloured bolts (white & blue to stay with the theme )?

e.g. Gilex in Amsterdam sells Ti and high grade aluminium Poggipolini bolts in various colours.

Very nice What is the function of the tube just above the brake pedal?

And welcome to VFRD.

CBR929/954: from base of the lower triple to the top 8"7/8. Bearing surfaces on the steering stem are spaced 7" apart (outer dimension).

I like it

Don't these 3D printers have some sort of limit in terms of printing scale/area/field. Wouldn't bigger sized objects need a format as big as a "plotter" where the printing feild and scale would be bigger....so it's not like one can already print things like fairing panels these days, unless you have access to a very expensive commercial version of the 3D printer, which I suspect is only affordable to big companies with big R&D departments presently...... .

Brammo used 3D printing for their bodywork: http://www.3dsystems.com/sites/www.3dsystems.com/files/3DS-Brammo-case-study.pdf

Very large scale 3D printers have been made that can print a house in concrete.

Attached is an article taking about 3D printers being used in Rapid Manufacturing by race teams. It shows what is currently possible with these machines.

Racecar_Engineering_Advanced_Engineering_2013_.pdf

Who knows in a few years ou acn download some files and print new fairings for when you have dropped your bike Come to think of it I have CAD files somewhere of the RC30 and RC40 fairings, hmmmm....