HispanicSlammer

Nice how to, you know if you get hot soldier burns on your wifes placemats she is gonna kill you! ?:D

Cannon Powershot S330 Digital Elph. It takes short movie clips too.

It is over in Maint Adjusting Controls

It takes some of the pressure off my knees, being lower, however I had to adjust the brake and shifter to bet better control, there is a pictorical on that too somwhere, I have a better feel for the road now I can feel the tires gripping better now. The pegs are good. :idea:

Very Interesting mod you say the cost was about $1000 or so? Including the lights you have mounted on the mirrors.

Yea that was the whole idea, turn it on before it gets overheated, next time I am tuning my PC2 or somthing I just switch on the fan, or before I overheat in the stop and go traffic. It seems to be much cheaper than the $40 replacement thermo switch. I would like to point out that having the fan on at speed is counter productive since it sucks air into the radiator from the side vents, once you get going at speed the air goes from the the wheel well and out thru those vents the opposite way! Having on the fan would just work against the the natural flow when your riding at speed.

The switch does not bypass the radiator fans normal operation cause the circuit is still the same, however with the bypass I can turn it on whenever I need it. All that it does is bypass the thermo switch when I turn it on, so the fan goes on. The way I wired it the fan will still go on if the thermo switch kicks in. Like I said before it was not coming on until the bike was already well over the normal operating temp, I need to replace the oem switch, but the dealer does not carry them in stock, at least this way I can turn it on for the $2 I paid for the parts. The replacement OEM part is $40 and it takes at least a couple of weeks to get the part. The manual switch was already on my dash, from an old project I took apart and rewired.

When I was syncing my starter valves my motor boiled over, I had a burned out fan fuse. I replaced it and then started up again, the fan would not come on till it reached 260 degrees. Hell with that I will turn it on myself! I need to replace that thermostatic switch, but even when it was running right it would not come on till it was 215f , I just want to be able to turn it on no matter what.

Fan Override switch. The purpose of the switch is to be able to manually turn on the radiator fan. ?I did it out of necessity since my fan thermo switch wasn't working properly and I didn't have $50 to get a new one at the time. ?Priorities prevented it, so I took some wire a few connectors, a switch and wired up a bypass. It is a ground trigger switch, all it does is ground the fan power, it is tied into the existing thermo switch so that will still work. If you take the power lead off ?the thermo switch and touch it to the body of the radiator the fan should come on, thats how it works the thermo switch gets hot and the circuit is completed. Unplug the female connector from the thermo switch on the left side radiator, It is actually on the radiator threaded into the radiator. I made a wire extension that male connects to the female connector, the other end is a female that goes back on the thermo switch its a female connector Its only about 2 inches long and is just an extension, I used a tee spice in the middle of it to be the ground source Here is the connections to the switch, one end is tee spliced to the extension wire the other is connected to a ground source on the frame. This end is the ground connector it is run from the manual switch to a ground I made it so I can pull the whole thing out without much trouble no splicing to the original wires. You can see where the manual switch is located and where I grounded it (a common ground buss)

I usually have a friend around, but I like to work on my bike when ever I get the notion. Which means an extra hand is not always around. It usually takes 2 or 3 people to measure sag, one to hold the bike, the rider to sit on it, and one to take measurements. Most folks skip the holder and have the rider stand on his tip toes while holding the bike up. I decided to give it a try SOLO with some ingenuity I came up with a plan that WORKED! The front sag can be done with a zip tie solo. However the back is what presented the problem. HERE IS MY SOLUTION REAR SAG It consist of a conical shaped table leg, a long hard piece of wire (flexible to bend but not soft), and a zip tie. I wrapped one end of the wire around my key, tight enough to not move too much, hardly at all, I took off the plastic cover on the wheel and stuck the conical wood piece in and marked a spot for the wire to go thru, then I drilled a 1/8 hole all the way thru it. I attached a zip tie to the wire and tightened it to stay but move then it was touched. The key in the helmet lock is a great place since it is directly above the center of the wheel (98-01) and it is far out enough to be a strait drop down to the piece of wood. There was a slight amount of free play in the wire but only about a mm, it hardly moved at all. With the bike on the rear stand I marked the point where it came to rest, (shock fully extended) At this point I let the bike down to the kick stand, it sort of bounces, then I set the zip tie all the way down to the wood to recalibrate it, gently sat on the bike, and for a moment lifted up my legs to get full sag reading, gently sat it up and then back onto the center stand, this is the result. I marked it with a pen and took off the wire to measure it. 43mm from point to point, give or take a mm for free play. I added a click of preload and remeasured (39mm) then 2 click more preload (and now I am correct at 32mm) I have my rear preload 4 clicks from full soft now to get the recommended 32mm of rear sag. My half arsed tool worked great! FRONT SAG This is way easier to measure, this only requires a jack, a zip tie, and a ruler or something to measure. I have a sliding metal ruler with a stop on it that moves. Begin by placing the bike on its kick stand, and place a zip tie around the fork like so. reach in and push the zip tie all the way down. Now gently get on the bike and sit her up, you can see the zip tie thru the opening near the handle bars, if you accidentally bump it too much then just push it down from above, then sit down and let it come to a rest, gently get off. The zip tie should stay in place if you put it on tight enough. Now I put the bike on the center stand and then jacked up the front wheel to get my sag measurment. The distance from the oil seal to the bottom of the zip is the sag! Mine was at 43mm so I cranked the preload down 3 full turns till it came to 32mm.

Those vests are silly looking but they are required on US military bases, I had to have one each time I went to Fort Carson on my Motorcycle, and when they say 25 mph they mean 24.99999999 and nothing over, or some 19 year old gung ho MP is gonna give you a ticket.

Well I sure didnt, Last time there was a thread on the subject it was ugly, but then again this thread is not about that. I wonder Hav, just how much did all that stuff wiegh? ?I took maybe half that much on my 2 week trip to Laguna, I eneded up not camping at all except the first day, it was way too hot to camp by the time I would find a spot to camp I could have made another 100 miles to my destination. I could have cut my side bags, and went lighter. ? I wore my Stich so I did not bring Jeans, but rather these lightweight microfiber pants, they pack about 4 to 1. ?I could have left some of my electronic gizmos at home too. ? My mp3 player has a hard drive and just couldnt take the shock of the motorcycle. leave that at home, bring my phone but not the motorcycle adaptor, I have a mini laptop which was great. ?All in all I could have packed probably a tank bag and a a rear bag no side bags, perhaps a ventura pack or a hard bag like a Givi.

There have been a few post on pulsating brakes, one cause is a warped disk. It is not a very common thing with floating disks brakes because they float on a band of rings and the rotor itself is heat tempered. However a dragging brake pad can heat up a disk and warp it. I have been getting alot of pulsation in my brakes as I begin to apply them, I suspected the rear brake, it is difficult to tell, so I put the bike on the rear stand and turned it to see if it was rubbing, I could not feel any rubbing so I turned next to the front wheel. I jacked up the front wheel and this time I could feel the brakes rubbing as I turned the wheel, somthing was wrong. There were several possibilties, due to the fact that it would only rub at a certain position, It could have been a warped disk or the axel was bent. I dont have a truing stand so I used my handy dandy Miguel special, 2 jack stands a rod and a bunch of clamps, I have a dial indicator I bought for around $30 bucks some years ago when I was going to rebuild a car engine, I removed the wheel and set up a way to turn the wheel smoothly. Here is my setup this is from behind. It worked great, no false readings from the stands moving. The clamps worked well, I had my magnetic dial base on a heavy hunk of rail road rail. I measured the right rotor first > Here you can actuall read the measurements in the next picture it was within 0.010 inches of play (the service limit is 0.012") The other rotor told a different story much more runnout and way out of spec! It was the warped one! 0.034" much more than the service limit For good measure I tried a different measurement by taking off the bolts and sliding it where it was mounted, the measurements were the same. I took it to the salvage shop, they did not have one in stock, but there are a few bike that share the same rotor for a 98-01 VFR, unfortunatly they cannont be machined, they must be replaced, I priced it out at $249 retail, and around $190 for discounted price, salvaged price varied from $120 to $175 ouch!! CBR 600 F4 (99-00) Valkerie GL1500 (97-02) CBR 900 RR (93-94) MFG: 45220MBG003 I recently tried prying a warped disk back into spec with a large crecent wrench, as long as the carrier is not bent out of shape the floating disk can be tweaked a bit one way or another to get it back in spec. I tried it on my wheel balance station with the dial indicator there to show me where to pull or push on the disk, then run the wheel around and remeasure until its within spec. It might warp again but a few times of this and it will stay, this will only work if its not too far out, and the carrier is not bent.

After tearing off my right OEM footpeg, I decided I would replace them with light wieght Lockhart Phillips adjustable foot pegs. Completely remove the old peg, take out the cotter pin, remove the holderpin and washer. The Peg is camberd to allow it to pivot. I put the footpeg in place then slid the holderpin just far enough to hold the peg. Push the spring back in place like so Slide the holder pin all the way down. Replace the washer Put in a new cotter pin and bend it around the holder pin. Turn the adjustable foot peg to the desired postion Tighten the allen bolt Check the peg for freedom of movement, it should be able to pivot easily There were some issues with the new pegs the required me to adjust the control surfaces, since these pegs ride about half and inch lower than the OEMs.

Procedure for Fuel Injected VFR models VTEC follows below on a reply post To diagnose a fuel injection problem on a 5th generation vfr with the ECM self diagnosis feature, Begin by removing the seat, locate the ?service check connector? and you will have to find a ?jumper wire? not provided. 1. With the ignition key to off and the engine stop switch on RUN 2. Short the ?Service Check Connector? 3. Turn the ignition key to on, do not start the bike though 4. If the ?FI? lights up and stays on with the ignition key on then there is no memory data 5. If the ?FI? BLINKS then there is data! Long blink = 10 short blinks VIDEO here is a short video on the procedure look for the blue connector on the left hand side of the rear subframe zoomed out I am indicating it with my finger my FI light blinked 12 times, number 1 injector, I found the connector was loose, I pulled it apart cleaned it and reconnected, fixed! VTEC PROCEDURE essentially the procedure is the same however the connector you need to short is up front on the right side near the fuse box.

Yes, It is just a swap out of the turnsignal relays. The relay is located behind the top cowling behind the dash. It is just a simple plug and play device.

Taking off the front wheel is outlined very well in your owners manual! It is just a matter of jacking it up from under the headers, getting off the axle bolt, taking off the 4 caliper bolts, taking off the 4 axle pinch bolts then sliding out the axle. It goes on the opposite way. somtimes the calipers bolts might be on really tight carfull no to strip them. I did a pictorial how to here Remove the wheels Jasco stripper is very thick and can be put on very precisely, however its caustic and hazardous.

I would not recommend stripping the front wheel while it is on the bike! ?Esp. if your using a stripper and not doing it using elbow grease, too many things you can get stripper onto that would not be good! ?Brake lines, caliper seals, ABS, the tire itself, also there is not enough room to do a good job if you leave the wheel on the bike. ? If you just to strip the rims and leave the spokes black just tape it off with a good body tape, then paint on the stripper with a good brush that you can control, if your gonna do it the old fashioned way using sandpaper then you will need to take off the wheel in order to get working room. Took me 5 hours to do the entire bike including cleanup and reassembly. ?If I were you I would wait untill I need a new set of tires then just pop on new tires after incase you accidently put stripper on the tire. Brake dust likes to lodge into the rough surfaces of the spoke sides and center sections, its a pain to clean.

Clutch This is cake if you just did your brakes! remove the cap to the clutch fluid, suck it out or use a rag. The bleeder bib is on the clutch slave cylinder near the kickstand ( Bleeding a standard VTEC We began by removing the seat and prepping the back area for work. Take off the 2 black Plastic pieces on both sides of the tank. Actually its not necessary to remove the piece on the right side but It could be a bit of a hassle to deal with. Removeing the Plastic on the right side With the plastic removed you have more room to work, push in the center of the plastic clips to remove them. Proportion valve bleeder on the left side Left side removed covers the proportion valve and battery Turn the handlebar to level the master cylinder remove the cap, plate, and diaphram My vacuum bleeder has an auto filler that seals off the master cylinder and siphons in new fluid from a fill bottle. Begin Bleeding The front Brakes Begin on the right side top bleeder (its the only bleed valve on the right front) You vacuum until its clean fluid then pump the bar hold it and close the valve. You will get air in the bleeder line its unavoidable, just make sure its clean coming out. Cruddy fluid still coming out Now go to the left side and do the top valve. The bleeders on the calipers are 8mm, after you get clean fluid pump the handle again hold it and close off the bleeder Top off the master cylinder and your done with the front, put the cap and stuff back on. Doing the Back Master Cylinder Remove the cap and diaphragm I suck out the master cylinders first and top off with new fluid before bleeding. The siphon filler would not seal cause of the ABS plastic was holding it up. If you spill brake fluid clean it up with soapy water right away or it will eat the paint! The center valve on the front left caliper is connected to the rear master cylinder start there They recommend that you remove the caliper and hold it at 45 degrees to help the air bubbles float out, they also say to replace the calipers bolts when you remove them. NAH! Power bleeder!! I just push on the secondary master cylinder above the caliper to pump the air out. Push on the caliper forward to pump the secondary master cylinder The Proportion valve wont bleed at all until you pump the petal, its 10mm wrench Top off the rear reservoir so it doesn't go dry, start with the rear top bleeder The old fluid is very dark! you will use a lot of fluid to do the VFR! almost a liter, we used synthetic Valvoline brake fluid. Getting to the valves on the rear caliper is a pain in the butt you can see a glimpse of the top bleeder in this shot Again pump the petal hold it and then close the valve, do the front valve after the top valve. Clutch Line Remove the cap, suck out the bad fluid, top it off Location of the slave bleeder on the left side of the bike Check the firmness of the levers and petal and make sure the clutch operates. If you feel spongy then you still have air in the system you will need to re-bleed!

Power Commander Control Center The unit has several Tables that adjust different things, as youmay know the PC takes inputs from various sensors and adjusts the readings. The PC simulates a different reading from the sensors to adjust the way the ECU delivers fuel. These sensors are the Throttle position sensor, Atmospheric pressure sensor, and Manifold Pressure sensors. These sensors control different portions of the powerband in different ways, because different conditions impact each sensor differently, Manifold pressure has a greater effect on low rpm conditions than the Atmospheric sensor, and vise versa so each table must be set up to compensate for these different conditions. Honda VFR800 command center table explanations Table 1 AAP (barometric pressure sensor) This table can be used to add or remove fuel from 10% through 100% throttle. The maximum value for adding fuel is "9". The maximum value for removing fuel is "-35". Table 2 TP (throttle position) This table can be used to add fuel at throttle settings between 5% and 80% if Table 1 does not allow the desired fuel ratio. Small changes in this table equal large changes in fuel delivery. Table 3 MP (manifold pressure/vacuum) This table is used to adjust fuel delivery at small throttle openings, 0% through 5%. Large values are required to make a noticeable change in fuel delivery (steps of "5" or so). Maximum value is "125", but if a value over "35" is used it might be necessary to use Table 2 in this area. Table 4 Ignition Adjustment for ignition timing is +4/-11 degrees. Timing is adjustable from 2,000 rpm to redline at all throttle positions. On street bikes with normal fuel, advancing the timing does little to improve power. It is possible on some models to achieve small gains as long as the highest octane fuel available is used. (note adjusting ignition timing can cause detonation and can damage the engine that is why high octane fuel is recommended with ignition changes) My motorcycle backfires when decelerating so I adjusted the MP table for low rpm, by setting the fuel settings at -12 at zero degrees throttle for 2000 rpm through 8000 rpm, also similar for 2% throttle open. It seems to make a difference without losing power on the rest of the powerband, I did not adjust the rpm range from 500 to 2000 since that is the idle range.

LED Voltage Gauge A precise, continuous way to monitor your bike's alternator output and battery condition. An essential instrument if your bike has bigger or extra lights, or other powered accessories. It uses a solid state, ultra compact design that is extremely durable and completely waterproof. This voltmeter fits anywhere and comes with two interchangeable, numbered faces so it can be positioned horizontally or vertically. Indicates from 9.3V to 14.8V using a ten segment multi color bar graph readout. Small electrical system changes are noticeable at a glance. 1.85" x 2.8" x .5" CAT. NO. 2506 $ 57.00 http://www.aerostich.com I bought one of these volt meters because I have so much stuff on my bike, heated grips, duel burn head-lamps, and electric vest. I had an embarrassing event in Denver where my bike wouldn't start in a group ride, now I know when I need to charge my battery. Installation attach the power leads to the unit Drill hole for the wires Shoot the wires thru the hole The unit has 2 screw holes with self tapping screw and a face plate fits over the holes, the unit is water proof, I hooked up the leads to my relay system, however the manufacturer states you can attach it to your battery directly the amp draw is so small that the battery will not drain overnight, sure I don't believe that so I set it to my key. When I start up the motor the LED jumps up and down when the revs go up and drop

I decided to check out the rear axle since my bike has 23k on it, to check for signs of bearing failure and axle wear. Begin by losening the main bolt The main bolt is a huge 46mm jobbie that is on very tight I borrowed Craigs socket to get it off, at this point you just want to get it loose, since its easiest to do with the wheel on the ground first loosen this bolt with the wheel down on the sidestand. Remove the rear wheel Remove the Chain Gaurd It is held in place by 2 screw type plastic clips, 2 hex bolts, and 2 brackets that hold the brake hoses. Once you get the chain gaurd off carfull not to lose the retaining backers that hold the hose brakets Remove the lower air gaurd Remove the main bolt and the washer, then loosen the pinch bolt on the top rear of the swingarm, then use the spanner from the tool kit to get enough slack in the chain to unhook it from the sprocket. Remove the rear hub Inspect the hub for rough bearings, if it turns notchy, noisy, or fits loosely then it should be replaced, put some grease on it anyhow. There is a spacer inside that you could mistake for a bearing, its just a spacer and it fits in there loosely. Remove the rear brake Inspect the axle for scoring If you have a dial indicator and a v block check it for runout as well, check for damage, replace if nessisary, if not grease that puppy up , then inspect the needle bearings, if they are good repack them with grease. My bearings all turned smooth and easy, they were all tight, and the needle bearings had grease, I just packed in a bit more, nothing bad to report, the axle was in good shape, I cleaned up my hub and switched the sprocket around. I also cleaned off the grime from the chain guide, since you have access to it now is the time to clean it!

Here is a link to a very well written and useful site discussing maintenance, disassembly and reassembly of VFR cartridge forks. (You may need to paste this link into your browser.) ?Enjoy! ?Larry http://www.math.uwaterloo.ca/~rblander/VFR_forks.html From the link above, it sounds like fork oil changes should be ?routine. In fact, it sounds like a good idea to change the fork oil twice. First, drain the oil. Then fill and pump the forks, just to get clean oil into the valve stack and pick up any remaining dirty oil, followed by a second draining. Then a final oil fill. Anyone ever do that? Anyone? Beuler? ?Larry ************************************** Fork Servicing By Miguel Mayo After reading the how to that Larry posted I decided to break out my manual and have a look see, the write up Larry posted covered most VFR except the Fifth and and Sixth Generation (98-03) There are a few minor changes that need to be addressed such as slightly different fork oil. My 1998 VFR uses 10 weight oil, you can use the Golden Spectro 10w cartridge oil or use the Honda SS-8 brand (10w) Remove the lower Fairing Loosen the Handle Bars This is not too difficult 12mm bolt, you dont need to completely remove it quite yet. Loosen the top clamp The top clamp is a large hex key, just loosen don?t remove! Reach under the faring and loosen the lower clamp 14 mm bolt, its hard to reach, do not loosen too much the fork will slide down! Just enough to where you have loosed the initial tension, it is much easier to loosen the bolts now before you jack up the bike. Remove the front brakes Remove the left side hex bolts and slip off the caliper Remove the Brake hoses from the fork Repeat this on the other side, it has 12mm bolts instead of hex bolts, the brake hoses on the right side are held on with 3 bolts, remove the outer one first to gain access to the inner 2 Jack up the front end and remove the front wheel Instructions On How To Remove The Front Wheel Remove the Forks Once the wheel is removed and the front is jacked up, loosen the triple lower and upper clamps enough to let the forks slide out, be careful here! I labeled them with tape since they have different sliders. remove the top cap This was difficult I had to place the fork in a vise and used a large rubber place mat that or a mouse pad, don?t use your wife?s place mats! That?s several divorce points for sure! Clamp it down in the vice and loosen that top cap. using 2 14mm wrenches loosen the top cap off from the pinch bolt Remove inner assembly There is a spacer tube, 2 washers, a concave shim, and a large spring, take note of the spring shape the tight winding goes to the bottom. Dump out the old oil in a pan then remove the cartridge assembly by loosening the hex bolt at the bottom Remove the Cartridge Place the cartridge in the pan and pump out the remaining oil. Make yourself a measuring dipstick Once the oil is pumped out of the cartridge it should slide easy, replace it back into the fork, then screw it back in with the hex bolt 14 ft/lbs , turn up right side up and begin adding the new oil, you will need 15.5 oz of it in each fork. Don?t pour it all in all at once. It is best to do both forks at the same time, since the fork oil level should be even for both. (You do this before adding the spring and top assembly back in) Pour in almost all the of the oil in then pump the dampening rod 10 times, make sure the little hole near the top of the rod gets immersed other wise no oil will make it inside the cartridge. Pump the outer fork 5 times too then use your dipstick to measure the oil level 5.1 inches to the top of the fork, (compressed shock measurement) . Get both oil levels to 5.1 inches and even for each fork Replace the spring, the 2 washers, the spacer, and the concave shim. You should replace the o ring on the top cap as well, screw it back on the damning rod and tighten it to the pinch rod! Top screw on the top cap you must compress the fork, return it to your vise and tighten the top cap to 14 ft/lbs slide the forks back into the triple clamp use the measurement in the picture the bottom pinch bolts on the triple clamp must be 36 ft/lbs the top hex bolts are just as tight as you can get Replace the wheel. Replace the brakes, fairing etc!

For that race ready look and ease of plastic removal use Dzus clips, availible at Lockhart Phillips in packages of 3, 3 clip, 6 grommets, 3 slip on backers. ? Lockhart Phillips (949) 489-9090 Part number 236-203 $19.95 I used 4 packages, they went on with out incident for the most part, however there are a few modifications that need to be made for the 2 backers that fit on the top where the ABS meets the softer plastic dash, where they connect with the metal fastner hole. 2 layers of plastic and a layer of metal makes the clip too short to reach the backer pin, I fixed this by using needle nose plyers on the backer to smash the pin closer, one of them I had to cut the clip in half to get it to fit, even so it took some force to get the clip to engage. I also used my Dremel tool to grind off some of the excess plastic on the inside of the fairing for added clearance then sanded it smooth. I also used 2 clips on the lower black fairing that covers the headers, I left 2 of the original hex ones on since it comes off with only 2 of 4 fastners undone, I had to use my Dremal on the inside backer tabs to smooth them out to accept the Dzus clip on Backer, its too thick if you dont grind it off. It is too expensive for sombody who doesnt do alot of wrentching themselves, but I like the custom look. $19.95 for a package. dzus</font>

20K Valve Check After Riding to California and back I thought it was a good time to do some major maintenance, replace the front tire that's cupped, 8k miles (not bad) oil change, clean the K&N airfilter, and check the valve clearance. Began by removing the upper and lower faring and seat. This is also a good time to clean engine parts of dirt and build up I removed my K&N filter and soaked it in water with laundry detergent. Remove the Gas tank clamped off the gas lines. Remove the reedvalve tube, and unhook the rubber bib to get to the rear cylinder head, remove the 4 10mm valve cover bolts then lift out the valve cover, remove the pulse cam cover on the side that accesses the timing hole. Remember there are 4 valves per cylinder the 2 on each side, exhaust on the outside of the V and intake in the inside of the V the cylinder cover also tells you which piston number is which. Rear left cylinder #1, front left #2, rear right #3, front right #4. I have done this before on another post so I wont repeat myself just add things I didn't mention before. This is the rear cylinder head. I turned the crank till the timing line was lined up with #1 and both cam shaft lines pointed out, this is the compression stroke. I don't know if you can see the cam shaft lines I highlighted the lines since they are hard to see. Set the crank for Cylinder #1 Check the clearance on cylinder #1, use a .006" feeler gauge on the 2 intake if its tight, if not then move to a .007" it shouldn't fit, you will have to replace the shim if it goes past this make sure to do both of the intake valves, then go to the exhaust side start with a .012" feeler if its not tight go to a .013" if it goes past that replace the shim. Do this for each cylinder. You have to put a bend in the feeler gauges to reach in Now Cylinder #3 also on the rear side of the bike. Check the clearance on #3 If they are in spec replace the cover, use sealant on the round part of the cover gaskets. Bolt it back on. Then move to the front. Drop the oil cooler and the 2 radiators, there is a radiator sensor which must be unplugged on the left side, remove the bolt and gently side it off the upper and lower holder pins do the other side then let it drop down out of the way. Remove the oil cooler bolts and drop it down. Remove the cover then move the crank to #2 position. Check the clearance on #2 Move the crank and Check #4 All mine were in spec again!