WDIV

I dropped my tank and broke the same connector. 

https://www.cycleterminal.com/250-housing-lance.html <<-- Where to get a new connector. 

Before:

After:

20 hours ago, mello dude said:

 

https://roadstercycle.com/

 

Dude.... do it right or dont do it..

 

SH847 from roadster, this is the way 100%

There's gotta be a way to read the FI codes. I'm too new around here to know how it's done but on my last bike, there was a wire jumper that you use to check it. 

EDIT: 

PO had this put on the bike. I rewired it to work on a relay instead of being wired directly to the battery. The USB ports have come in handy for an aftermarket GPS to verify the speedo accuracy. 

10 minutes ago, MBrane said:

Magnet on a stick is one of my most used tools. Having it handy can help to keep things from dropping into the abyss.

Absolutely. I have a couple and they're constantly saving my butt on the car and the bike 💪

Thank God for magnets!

So I decided to change the CCTs preventatively while also enlarging the hole for oil to 3mm as recommended by Kevin's Shed on YT and I tried to remove as little as possible to do it... so here's the top CCT
 

I shoud have disconnected the small air hose going around the top of the CCT but kept it moving anyways. It definitely would have stopped the cap from falling into the head. 

Not wanting to spend $100 on a CCT lock tool and being absolutely terrible with the tiny factory piece of metal, I decided to try this which worked surprisingly well. 

The next picture I took was when I *thought* I had the cap on it's way out but it only goes one way...

So grabbing a second magnet to help turn the cap so I could actually reach it from the center and pull it straight out, I was able to get this done!

45 minutes of fishing with magnets and I finally got it. Holy schnikes was this nerve racking. I was really, really glad the cap was easy to grab with a magnet and was glad no heads had to be removed to grab it. So if you find yourself in this situation, be patient and you'll eventually get it. 

Happy Friday!

6th gen is the best gen! (I'm biased, obviously)

Just ride it until it shows you what else is broken lol. That's what I've done and it's been great so far 🙂

43 minutes ago, afinepoint said:

Honda pump $742.

 

Aftermarket $90.  Manufacturer Yezoauto. Amazon.  No reviews.  

 

Thoughts?  I know the cheaper is going to be a roll of the dice but there is that wonderful Amazon 30 day no question return window. 

 

Relay ordered.  

Let us know how it goes cus I'm curious about this adventure as this point lol

15 hours ago, AdamC said:

I did have to resort to taking it off, and realised is a doddle. Curious would we expect this amount of corrosion on a relay pin to potentially be the issue ? Also means I can do some "while I'm in there" jobs and cleaning.

No way. That's the same relay I replaced on mine because it caused an issue where the bike made weird ticking noises when it was completely off. Mine was also corroded. Replaced with a new one and was good to go. Weeeiiiiiiirrrdd. I thought it was a fuel cutoff relay. 

2 hours ago, SABen said:

 

I also found a cable that looks to be connected to something to stop it moving too far - at first thought it was supposed to attach the tank to the frame, but saw no missing/empty bolts.

 

 

 

 

 

There's a hole in between the two bolts on the tank that it gets attached to with a screw/bolt.

Not to be discouraging at all but I'm glad I'm not the only one who bought a VFR and is dealing with some wackadoo problems lol

I just bought chinese replica fairings on ebay. Definitely just ABS plastic and definitely get the job done. 

Any other symptoms? Mileage? Maintenance done?

I'm not a big wine person but I'd do this in a second for whiskies 😁

Pics of the wine in bubble wrap in the PVC? (or all loaded up in the panniers?)

20 minutes ago, Grum said:

WDIV. Are you able to verify that the Bank Angle Sensor wiring is all normal? Or has the BAS been bypassed ie the BAS is unplugged and the Red/Yellow wire has been Grounded or jumpered to the Green wire of the 3P connector. Refer attached drawing.

And just to be clear, your picture of the Relay base and its socket all corroded is the Engine Stop Relay? And none of the other relays have similar corrosion? 

I'll have to look. I looked for the Fuel Cut relay where the picture showed it and couldnt' find it. I'm not sure if it's buried somewhere or what. I'll try looking at the bank angle sensor. 

10 hours ago, bmart said:

We're here to help, despite our actions...

I appreciate it more than you know. 🙂

 

4 hours ago, Grum said:

Ha stupid me! Just looked like a bunch of strange cables coming out of the front fairing, over suspicious about some weird wiring on your bike.

 

Again..any idea which of the four relays it was?

I replaced the engine stop relay as it's the only one I see in the diagram that seems capable of bypassing the battery. 

The pic that helped me find it here.

I just used the wiring diagram to find how anything could be connected without the battery.  

On 9/9/2023 at 10:12 PM, Grum said:

 

P.s. Listen very closely to your video again, is it just me? Why do I hear what sounds like some sort fan running just prior to you turning OFF the Ignition near the end of the recording?

I went out to the bike last night to see if I heard the same. That's my bad. The PO installed LED lights that have fans on the back of them. Heck of an observation by you!

20 hours ago, Grum said:

Good find. BUT...... Which relay is it, important info? Is it the Engine Stop Relay? Might be worth checking ALL relay sockets including the Starter Relay for similar corrosion!

 

There's no way I'd be placing my nice new relay into those sockets! They look horrible, just wouldn't trust them, based on all the corrosion and oxidization evident, you could never rely on good contact connection. It's not too hard to replace the spade sockets with high quality ones like in the attached picture (Ignore the pic of the Starter Red Plug).

 

I'm still baffled by the fact you had the ticking noise with Ignition to OFF! This doesn't make sense! There is no power to any Relay Coil when the Ignition is OFF. I "smell a Rat", there must be some strange non OEM wiring changes, additions/modifications or intermittent short going on here!

 

Just curious! What is this mass of mostly yellow looking wires, just doesn't look right? See attached in Green circle. 

 

P.s. Listen very closely to your video again, is it just me? Why do I hear what sounds like some sort fan running just prior to you turning OFF the Ignition near the end of the recording?

 

The yellow wire is my 12ga extension cable on the floor far behind my bike lol.

At the end of the video I hear the fuel relay go but no "fan".

22 hours ago, bmart said:

They make tools to clean connectors, male blades and female side too! Do a quick search. 

I'll grab one now. Thanks! Had no idea these terminal cleaners existed!

On 8/10/2023 at 5:50 AM, Grum said:

Take the seat off, raise the tank etc. It should be easy to locate where the loud ticking is physically coming from.

The relay was ticking like mad and I'm sad it took me this long to get around to sorting it.

This... doesn't look great. 🙂

New relay looks a little better sealed.

Cleaned up the original harness as thoroughly as I could with a brush. Definitely thought about de-pinning it be a bit more thorough but it looked good enough.

Hopefully this sorts the weirdness out but we'll see over time. It's raining today and tomorrow so monday, we test ride. 🙂

Who doesn't like pie cuts on an exhaust? 

It looks good so far and I'm betting you know the wheel has that dent in it. I can't wait to see more tail pics. 

On 8/16/2023 at 9:25 AM, Sweeper said:

Forgive me if I missed it being mentioned. The 6th gens were notorious for crappy starter valve sync from the factory in addition to being lean. PC or other controller will solve a lot of the issue but to get it really smooth, get the throttles synced. You are dealing with a lot of issues from an old bike. It will be worth it in the end. They are very reliable when sorted and nothing beats the sound of a happy V4.

Already got the PC6 installed and going 🙂

 

20 hours ago, carlgustav said:

 

I've wondered on/off for years about pulling the stock turn signals and adding short ducts in their place to direct air towards the radiators (or just into the area) when moving. If any additional airflow is actually effective, then what do you do about turn signals? I've not seen that anyone has tried this so it may not be practical.

Hmmmmm. You could always move turn signals to the mirrors, bar ends, or even just place some LED strips on each side. 

I was gonna say grab a rebuild kit when I saw the thread preview but you specifically say you don't need that 😬

On 8/11/2023 at 11:07 PM, Cogswell said:

Ok, so I'm late to this - brand me a failure . . . !    Just a few random thoughts from my experiences with a 6th gen . . .

 

On the ticking sound, that does sort of sound like the 'ticking time bomb' - LOL!  I have never heard that from any bike.  Very odd.  Is there some accessory the p.o. would have added?  

 

Re surging, that's a well documented 6th gen issue - thank your elected representatives for urging the EPA to tighten their regs to save us from ourselves (leaning these things out to ridiculous levels).    Generally, a PC or Rapid Bike will smooth those out.  Also, sending the injectors off for a bench cleaning where flow and spray pattern are verified can also be helpful (easy on a 6th gen). 

 

Re the fan, either a single pole double throw (SPDT) or a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch can be very useful.  The wire to the thermo sensor on the left rad is hot with the ignition on.  All the thermo sensor does is ground the wire.  Remove that wire and connect it to the center connector of the new switch.  Then connect a second pole of the switch to ground and the 3rd pole of the switch to the thermo sensor.  Now you can force the fan on, off or route current from the power wire to ground allowing normal automatic operation.  It might seem odd to switch the fan to "off".  The trouble is that when the fan is running it's sending air through the left rad in the opposite direction of the normal flow from moving forward, stalling flow over that rad.  Once the engine gets over 220 and you get to speed,  the fan continues running but works against the ram air flow, not knowing that you're moving.  So turning the fan off can get ram air flow going again and cool things off faster once temps climb above 220 deg.  If you get a DPDT switch, there will be two sets of connectors, you'll just use the connectors on one side, the others remain unused. 

 

As for 6th gens with issues, I didn't think there was such a thing as ones without!  It's just all about dealing with them, which you seem to be well on your way to addressing.  Eventually you'll probably have cam chain tensioner issues, but that's not a big deal - there are some threads here about that, too. 

 

Cheers.

The ticking is a relay on the fritz, I'm sure. Whether it's caused by an 28 year old relay going bad or a bad grounds, I have yet to figure out. @Grum has been incredibly helpful. I took all the body work off but haven't been able to get the relay to act up again. Oh intermittent issues, how I hate you lol. 

For the surging, the PC6/O2 delete seemed to help a ton. Everything smoothed out, especially in the low end which was surprising. I bought a set of used injectors off of ebay specifically to send out for cleaning so I could replace them. It's on my list lol. 

The fan turned out to be a bad motor which was very exciting as I was getting frustrated trying everything everyone had recommended. No one wants to assume it's the $300 motor that's gone bad after 18 years but here's to it lasting another 18 years. I noticed mine consistently kicks on a 190* so I think the thermo sensor that I have isn't stock. PO wasn't helpful at all. I do wonder about air flow beneath the bike though and have thought about putting a naca duct somewhere and running a bit of ducting to help move cooler air into the under tank area... 

I wanted a VFR for a long time and I'm getting what I deserve lol. On the plus side, it's already been a ton of fun and I'm stoked to get her to 100%. The CCTs are inevitable and I'm hoping I'm on teh right side of mileage (22k) to avoide them for a little while lol. 

18 minutes ago, Grum said:

Take the seat off, raise the tank etc. It should be easy to locate where the loud ticking is physically coming from.

I'll try that after work. I just need to get it to start doing it again. 

9 hours ago, Grum said:

 

Unless you're bike has ABS? With Ignition to Off the only thing hanging off the battery is the R/R and clock power at the Instrument Panel! Perhaps, other than non standard wiring or accessories, your Ignition Switch may have developed some strange internal short.!!

 

"So while the key was on but the kill switch was off, it was ticking" - In this state Kill Switch OFF, all your EFI stuff including ECM, Fuel Pump, Engine Stop Relay, Fuel Cut Relay and sensors are unpowered. This means only Main Fuse A 30amp power is supplying the ticker! Assuming your battery voltage might be getting low, with Ignition to On you might get headlight relay chatter, but with Ignition to OFF this is impossible!

 

DO you have any non standard accessories or wiring added to the bike? If so, is this wired into the Main Fuse A 30amp (In the Starter Relay)circuit, or directly wired to the battery? I'm almost convinced there's a non standard relay somewhere, alarm system maybe?.

 

Curious - While watching and listening closely, why am I hearing what sounds like the cooling fan comming on with Ignition to ON? Can't see the temperature guage, was the engine excessively hot when you did the recording?

 

Just for Info - Some advice regarding the Kill Switch with a VFR. If you stop the engine this way and perhaps get distracted by someone or something and forget to switch Off the Ignition, your headlights will still be glowing, potentially flattening your battery, I've seen this happen.!!

Over working the Kill Switch, which is really for emergency use, just introduces another switch that may wear out causing issues over time, and as we know, a Kill Switch fault will instantly Kill the engine and possibly when you least expect it. Just a thought and as always YMMV.

I thought the ticking while the key and kill siwtch were off would be impossible too. But here we are lol. 

The only after market things related to any wiring are the relay/wiring for the volt meter and the SH847 RR from roadster. 

The cooling fan was that whole ordeal that's already been sorted. If the fan was on, you'd know it. Now I wonder what you're hearing. Bike was cold at time of recording. 

About the kill switch, I've only seen VFR people here and in teh FB groups say this about the kill switch. With it being engrained in my process after 70k miles of riding, I'm not sure I'd be able to switch that up at this point lol. Are suzuki switches just made better? My naked SV wen through all kinds of weather and I smashed that switch on and off for as long as I had that bike without issue. :)