BSR67

Thanks Grum. Good advice as ever. I’ve managed 84 miles on the bike without a hitch so far. Will undertake the busbar mod as soon as possible - soldering the group together. Shocks me, as it does others, how undersized and basic the wires and devices are given the load and heat. Thanks very much Alex

Hi Grum/All It’s a damn shame the video doesn’t work. It shows me running the multimeter along the pins with the black lead on the negative battery terminal which we know is securely earthed. Taking the photo attached here, the readings on the lower row of ten pins working from RIGHT to LEFT are (where on 200 ohms the multimeter reads 0.08 ohms when the red and black are touched together): pin 1 1.0 2 1.3 3 1.4 4 no continuity 5 ditto 6 0.10 7 no continuity 8 ditto 9 0.10 10 no continuity Taking the upper

Hi Grum/All This is the busbar. Interestingly there is a natural break between the two sides at the far end of the plug (the opposite end to the main earth wire). You can just about see it in Photo 2. Alex

Step 2 Continued. Video checking the pins on the grey ground bar. One side at a time. One connector is slightly higher - the second pin in the second video. Will welcome your thoughts on that second pin and also, the test regime for the ECM to ground. Thanks Grum Alex IMG_7318.MOV IMG_7319.MOV

Stage 2 continued. Plug exposed. Some light scorching. The lightly scorched terminals across from one another read 0.08 ohms when linked back to the battery negative. Others give no reading. Some are Differing values. Video to follow. Thanks Alex

Step 2 Here is the earth block. I’ve unwrapped it. It is far easier to access from the top. Going to separate the cap shortly. alex

Hi Grum A small step. Photograph attached of ground anchor point left hand side of the bike (as you sit on it). It shows the two green/pink wires. Also two further green wires. The second photograph shows the battery ground bolted to the frame cross member. ALL readings (black multimeter lead on battery negative, red lead to anchor bolts/copper/steel connectors and to alloy frame immediately next to the anchor points) are the SAME as touching the two multimeter leads together - on 200 ohm gauge the reading is 0.08 ohms. The ground function is consisten

Hi Grum I will check the frame grounds later today. Didn’t realise 20 Ohms is sufficient to form a bad ground. I could not see a cable tie on the loom but will recheck. There is just so little slack on it. The plug is bound up in insulating tape, right? Will follow the steps. And understand the methodology. thx

Hi Grum I’m going to be reporting back early next week. I’ve investigated, found the plug but only have basic tools here so need to collect a load from home at the weekend to allow me to remove more parts. The plug is hard to access - I need to remove the airbox etc to improve access. Back soon. alex

I mean report back! Wish I was having a drink!!!!! 😀 I’ll report back later ….!!!!!! Alex

Thanks Grum Will be checking later. Will revert. Do you know where an ECM test harness is available? Part number look up doesn’t yield any results. Alex

Thanks Grum! Amateur hour continues! 😄 I'll re-check later today and revert, plus the findings from under the panel. I haven't checked the grounds on the ECM yet - do this at the same time or after the earth bar checks? Thanks Alex

Hi Grum Whoops - amateur hour last night! Forgot about the 5,000 readings. Here they are: Voltage pre-start - 12.69v Voltage after start at 5k rpm - 14.41v Voltage at 75 Centigrade and at 5k rpm - 14.39v Resistance between battery negative terminal and frame grounding point - see photo! Will pull side panel this evening. Got to get to work! Thanks Grum - appreciated. Alex

I’ve cleared the fault code. FI light stays solid when dealer plug bridged. At the moment FI light goes out after removing bridge ……..!!!

Hi Grum Here we go: Battery Voltage pre-start (battery off bike) 12.77v Battery Voltage pre-start (battery fitted to bike) 12.77v Battery Voltage immediately post start 14.33v Battery Voltage after approx 5-7 minutes, engine temp 80 centigrade 14.25v Battery Voltage with lights on High Beam after 5-7 minutes, engine temp 80 as before - 12.55v FI light not on. On centre stand. Side stand up. The only other thing I have done is disconnect these two wires from the +ve and -ve of the battery which I think

Hi Grum Fuel Injection light stays on when running with the side stand up. More digging on earths needed. And maybe the ECM. Battery terminals are clean and tight (battery replaced a handful of weeks ago during the last round of FI grief!) Amazon Multimeter has landed. Will message voltages later. Alex

Hi Grum Connections look to be in good shape. Multimeter landing tomorrow. Will update. Alex

Hi Grum Connections look to be in good shape. Multimeter landing tomorrow. The bike does run but the FI light stays on. Will update. Alex

Hi Grum! Good to speak again! Bike has been faultless until now - and I've covered 650 miles. I'll check the connector as directed. Also, will buy a multi/test meter. As you'll recall I work away from home in the week, so don't have all my tools (and the bike is at work having made the journey last night!). Will get on to Amazon Prime delivery now! Will also check ECM grounds. Could be a lengthy task. Will be back soon, BSR67

I have checked the ECM codes - 23 - Faulty Oxygen Sensor. Other Honda makes and models fit? thx

OK, so strange happening this evening on a 160 mile ride. Was pottering along at around 80 mph on the A1 and the bike suddenly cut out (I saw the Rev counter drop to zero) and a pulled over and let the clutch out on deceleration. The bike restarted and the Fuel Injection light glowed. It then got brighter and brighter. Bike ran 100% for the next 100miles. Got to destination and then stopped and restarted. Light was out but then came back on and the tickover is lumpy. I haven’t read ECM codes yet. When I arrived at my destination the bike would restart and the FI light stay

Just the one Grum ....... Eek! There's an article on here on how to self programme new ones. Will try that or Honda! Could be expensive! Taking the old girl out for a shakedown later. Thanks for everything. BSR67

Ha ha ha! Thanks Grum! Will be avoiding that flooding scenario at all costs! My sons took the bike for a blast. The outstanding news is that the tick over is now stable and at 1,200 rpm. It had been all over the shop with the previous owner. I've now fitted the correct exhausts (the previous silencers had be 'de-baffled' and were LOUD), and I'll also fitted a replacement side fairing panel (RHS). All fault codes cleared, which stopped the 'flashing 9 times on power up'. I now have no FI light and the throttle response is crisp and clean. I have re-connected

It's ALIVE!!!! 🤣 Slightly embarrassed to say I changed all four plugs - they were sooty, very wet, the gap was about 3 miles. It started straight up! I still have the FI light on when running - need to sort that via clearing codes I hope - I haven't yet! Before start up it blinks 9 times on a cycle. I'll clear the codes a little later and see what gives. How does the choke operate? I think the rich running could be a sticky/dodgy choke. Is the choke operating when the holes in the throttle body are open or closed? How is it activated? A million

Hi Grum i haven’t cleared the ECM MIL codes yet. So that is the next job. I also have a set of new spark plugs and will fit those today. I’ve topped the fuel up with fresh. May be tempted to drain it all off and start with 100%. Will update! thanks BSR67