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BSR67

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    UK
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    2002 VFR800-2

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  1. Thanks Grum. Good advice as ever. I’ve managed 84 miles on the bike without a hitch so far. Will undertake the busbar mod as soon as possible - soldering the group together. Shocks me, as it does others, how undersized and basic the wires and devices are given the load and heat. Thanks very much Alex
  2. Hi Grum/All It’s a damn shame the video doesn’t work. It shows me running the multimeter along the pins with the black lead on the negative battery terminal which we know is securely earthed. Taking the photo attached here, the readings on the lower row of ten pins working from RIGHT to LEFT are (where on 200 ohms the multimeter reads 0.08 ohms when the red and black are touched together): pin 1 1.0 2 1.3 3 1.4 4 no continuity 5 ditto 6 0.10 7 no continuity 8 ditto 9 0.10 10 no continuity Taking the upper row working from RIGHT to LEFT: Pin 1 (slightly scorched) 0.09 2 2.8 3-10 no continuity So, if in the table above pin 1 (slightly scorched) is the main earth wire, the earth is Good at 0.09 ohms (0.01 off base reading). Pin 2 is 2.8. Is this the culprit? I’ve re-assembled for the time being and plan a test ride. The only pin of concern is upper pin 2. I will report back later - probably Monday. Thanks all for guidance and patience. Alex
  3. Hi Grum/All This is the busbar. Interestingly there is a natural break between the two sides at the far end of the plug (the opposite end to the main earth wire). You can just about see it in Photo 2. Alex
  4. Step 2 Continued. Video checking the pins on the grey ground bar. One side at a time. One connector is slightly higher - the second pin in the second video. Will welcome your thoughts on that second pin and also, the test regime for the ECM to ground. Thanks Grum Alex IMG_7318.MOV IMG_7319.MOV
  5. Stage 2 continued. Plug exposed. Some light scorching. The lightly scorched terminals across from one another read 0.08 ohms when linked back to the battery negative. Others give no reading. Some are Differing values. Video to follow. Thanks Alex
  6. Step 2 Here is the earth block. I’ve unwrapped it. It is far easier to access from the top. Going to separate the cap shortly. alex
  7. Hi Grum A small step. Photograph attached of ground anchor point left hand side of the bike (as you sit on it). It shows the two green/pink wires. Also two further green wires. The second photograph shows the battery ground bolted to the frame cross member. ALL readings (black multimeter lead on battery negative, red lead to anchor bolts/copper/steel connectors and to alloy frame immediately next to the anchor points) are the SAME as touching the two multimeter leads together - on 200 ohm gauge the reading is 0.08 ohms. The ground function is consistent and works. I have cleaned all spade ends and frame mounting points with grit paper as a precaution. All readings are the same at 0.08 after cleaning. The photographs are before cleaning. Thanks Alex
  8. Hi Grum I will check the frame grounds later today. Didn’t realise 20 Ohms is sufficient to form a bad ground. I could not see a cable tie on the loom but will recheck. There is just so little slack on it. The plug is bound up in insulating tape, right? Will follow the steps. And understand the methodology. thx
  9. Hi Grum I’m going to be reporting back early next week. I’ve investigated, found the plug but only have basic tools here so need to collect a load from home at the weekend to allow me to remove more parts. The plug is hard to access - I need to remove the airbox etc to improve access. Back soon. alex
  10. I mean report back! Wish I was having a drink!!!!! 😀 I’ll report back later ….!!!!!! Alex
  11. Thanks Grum Will be checking later. Will revert. Do you know where an ECM test harness is available? Part number look up doesn’t yield any results. Alex
  12. Thanks Grum! Amateur hour continues! 😄 I'll re-check later today and revert, plus the findings from under the panel. I haven't checked the grounds on the ECM yet - do this at the same time or after the earth bar checks? Thanks Alex
  13. Hi Grum Whoops - amateur hour last night! Forgot about the 5,000 readings. Here they are: Voltage pre-start - 12.69v Voltage after start at 5k rpm - 14.41v Voltage at 75 Centigrade and at 5k rpm - 14.39v Resistance between battery negative terminal and frame grounding point - see photo! Will pull side panel this evening. Got to get to work! Thanks Grum - appreciated. Alex
  14. I’ve cleared the fault code. FI light stays solid when dealer plug bridged. At the moment FI light goes out after removing bridge ……..!!!
  15. Hi Grum Here we go: Battery Voltage pre-start (battery off bike) 12.77v Battery Voltage pre-start (battery fitted to bike) 12.77v Battery Voltage immediately post start 14.33v Battery Voltage after approx 5-7 minutes, engine temp 80 centigrade 14.25v Battery Voltage with lights on High Beam after 5-7 minutes, engine temp 80 as before - 12.55v FI light not on. On centre stand. Side stand up. The only other thing I have done is disconnect these two wires from the +ve and -ve of the battery which I think feed a 12v socket outlet/USB which is not connect at the USB end. The terminating wires are tapped up. Have checked continuity of 30Amp fuse. 100% OK. They get bloody hot don’t they! Thanks Alex
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