BSR67

Hi Grum, I thought I'd follow up on this, although it is some time since the original issue. I didn't make any earth bar mods for some time - in fact, the bike covered 1,500 miles before it coughed again. Same behaviour - cut out at speed (80mph), instantly restarted, glowing FI light, then brightly on. I checked the EFI codes and again it said both O2 sensors although the heaters. The bike was slightly more haywire - fuel pump running continuously on power up, erratic flapper valve behaviour - generally unhappy. I left the bike almost two weeks, and when I turned the ignition on, the fuel pump kept running and the FI light kept flashing 24/25 despite not having a wire bridging the plug! So, I did the blue connector modification - the one on the left side under the fairing behind the nose fairing, when I bridged the green earth wire with a fresh wire and took this back to a frame grounding point. I soldered the jumper wire in and insulated the connections. I then followed your Option 4 advice Grum and stripped the plastic off the earth bar cap and soldered two wires on to it (the bar is grouped in to 4 and 16 pins), and took both back to the negative battery terminal (academic I know as in effect both the 4 and 16 pins are connected via the common battery ground connection), and I then bound the earth bar assembly up in black insulating tape. So, I've now done a further 600 miles and it has been trouble and gremlin free thankfully, so far (fingers crossed). So the moral of the story is, most people pull the entire grey earth bar assembly off and solder 20 wires together which just felt like a serious hassle. I was fortunate that the 20 pin earth bar plug was in good enough condition to be used - I realise these sometimes melt, necessitating the 'solder all 20 together' option! So, thanks for the great advice, and I hope this is useful to anyone having the same FI gremlins. Alex

Thanks Grum. Good advice as ever. I’ve managed 84 miles on the bike without a hitch so far. Will undertake the busbar mod as soon as possible - soldering the group together. Shocks me, as it does others, how undersized and basic the wires and devices are given the load and heat. Thanks very much Alex

Hi Grum/All It’s a damn shame the video doesn’t work. It shows me running the multimeter along the pins with the black lead on the negative battery terminal which we know is securely earthed. Taking the photo attached here, the readings on the lower row of ten pins working from RIGHT to LEFT are (where on 200 ohms the multimeter reads 0.08 ohms when the red and black are touched together): pin 1 1.0 2 1.3 3 1.4 4 no continuity 5 ditto 6 0.10 7 no continuity 8 ditto 9 0.10 10 no continuity Taking the upper row working from RIGHT to LEFT: Pin 1 (slightly scorched) 0.09 2 2.8 3-10 no continuity So, if in the table above pin 1 (slightly scorched) is the main earth wire, the earth is Good at 0.09 ohms (0.01 off base reading). Pin 2 is 2.8. Is this the culprit? I’ve re-assembled for the time being and plan a test ride. The only pin of concern is upper pin 2. I will report back later - probably Monday. Thanks all for guidance and patience. Alex

Hi Grum/All This is the busbar. Interestingly there is a natural break between the two sides at the far end of the plug (the opposite end to the main earth wire). You can just about see it in Photo 2. Alex

Step 2 Continued. Video checking the pins on the grey ground bar. One side at a time. One connector is slightly higher - the second pin in the second video. Will welcome your thoughts on that second pin and also, the test regime for the ECM to ground. Thanks Grum Alex IMG_7318.MOV IMG_7319.MOV

Stage 2 continued. Plug exposed. Some light scorching. The lightly scorched terminals across from one another read 0.08 ohms when linked back to the battery negative. Others give no reading. Some are Differing values. Video to follow. Thanks Alex

Step 2 Here is the earth block. I’ve unwrapped it. It is far easier to access from the top. Going to separate the cap shortly. alex

Hi Grum A small step. Photograph attached of ground anchor point left hand side of the bike (as you sit on it). It shows the two green/pink wires. Also two further green wires. The second photograph shows the battery ground bolted to the frame cross member. ALL readings (black multimeter lead on battery negative, red lead to anchor bolts/copper/steel connectors and to alloy frame immediately next to the anchor points) are the SAME as touching the two multimeter leads together - on 200 ohm gauge the reading is 0.08 ohms. The ground function is consistent and works. I have cleaned all spade ends and frame mounting points with grit paper as a precaution. All readings are the same at 0.08 after cleaning. The photographs are before cleaning. Thanks Alex

Hi Grum I will check the frame grounds later today. Didn’t realise 20 Ohms is sufficient to form a bad ground. I could not see a cable tie on the loom but will recheck. There is just so little slack on it. The plug is bound up in insulating tape, right? Will follow the steps. And understand the methodology. thx

Hi Grum I’m going to be reporting back early next week. I’ve investigated, found the plug but only have basic tools here so need to collect a load from home at the weekend to allow me to remove more parts. The plug is hard to access - I need to remove the airbox etc to improve access. Back soon. alex

I mean report back! Wish I was having a drink!!!!! 😀 I’ll report back later ….!!!!!! Alex

Thanks Grum Will be checking later. Will revert. Do you know where an ECM test harness is available? Part number look up doesn’t yield any results. Alex

Thanks Grum! Amateur hour continues! 😄 I'll re-check later today and revert, plus the findings from under the panel. I haven't checked the grounds on the ECM yet - do this at the same time or after the earth bar checks? Thanks Alex

Hi Grum Whoops - amateur hour last night! Forgot about the 5,000 readings. Here they are: Voltage pre-start - 12.69v Voltage after start at 5k rpm - 14.41v Voltage at 75 Centigrade and at 5k rpm - 14.39v Resistance between battery negative terminal and frame grounding point - see photo! Will pull side panel this evening. Got to get to work! Thanks Grum - appreciated. Alex

I’ve cleared the fault code. FI light stays solid when dealer plug bridged. At the moment FI light goes out after removing bridge ……..!!!