chris2992

There are 3 "legs" of the stator, the 3 yellow wires. Lets lable them 1, 2 & 3. Take your multi meter and set it to AC voltage with a range of 0 to somewhere around 200v (same range you would use to check a 120v receptical in your home). Now take the voltage across 1 and 2, 1 and 3, lastly 2 and 3. All 3 values should be very close to one another and at idle read about 20v and at 5krpm read about 60v. Make sure to do this with the RR disconnected.

Horror stories from electro sport products. Try Ricks products, http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/ then read this thread to see his work. Rick's stator The good thing about rick's is he is cheeper than OEM, and offers a 1 yr warranty. He also uses higher quality wire that is more resistant to heat and stress that a MC engine provides. I can't speek for sure, but I doubt that there will be a compatiable stator.

See the other thread, I replied there. That isn't an oem RR. The black wire is a voltage signal wire not found on the 5g VFR. You may have a RR from a 6g, not sure, but that isn't a 5g RR. On a side note, If you are having charging issues, I highly recomend the mod that you are posting in.

First off, fill in this chart. In brackets are typical good results. Battery voltage with bike off = [12.5v] Voltage with bike at idle = [13.2v] Voltage with bike at 5k RPM = [14.0] AC voltage from stator at idle (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [20 vac] AC voltage from stator at 5k RPM (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [60 vac] Those 5 checks really help diagnosis. B. Sounds like your stator is tost, but the AC voltage checks will confirm that. C. No, so long as you didn't run it for a really long time (long heat cycle).

You can buy the craftsman kit on sale for $70. In this case, I'd say the extra bit of money spent on the craftsman (if there was any) would be well worth the trouble you'll save yourself.

"this is a super reliable bike I would hesitate to drive it anywhere". Alot of faith in his product.

The diagram in incorrect as for wire placement on the RR. I put it together for the Beaf up Dem wires thread, not for this thread. I guess I need to make a note about it on the picture. Thanks for the heads up.

The gray and black that you see is all mounted to the RR. The yamaha wiring harness plugs into what you see, similar to the connector on the ECU of our bikes. So no I didn't use the yamaha connectors, but made my own out of standard female spade terminals.

I picked my 05 RR up on ebay for $18 shipped and couldn't be happier. It is much larger than stock, so I had to cut off a 1/2" from each of the fins. After cutting them off, I filed the corners to rounds so they didn't scratch everything they touched. It just barely fits behind the plastic, at the closest point it is about 3/16" to 1/4" clear. It, so far, has functioned much better than the stock unit. I get a rock steady 14.0v at idle and at 5k rpm I have 14.2v, and the max that I have seen is 14.3. To say the least, this unit is steady and consistent. Also a big perk is that it runs cool to the touch at all times, I pulled the seat after about a 2 hr ride and it couldn't have been more than 20deg f above ambient, where as the stock unit would have been untouchably hot. As for installation, here you go. You have to drill a new hole for the right side, but no biggie. I also just used the hardware from my OEM RR, however I was running the upgraded unit that included longer bolts, so if you have the smaller unit, you may need new bolts. Once mounted, on to the electrical side. The gray connector is the 3 phases coming from the stator, order is no matter, just connect the 3 wires from the stator to each of the 3 inputs on the RR. I just used gold plated standard covered spade connectors. The black connector is the output to ground and battery. The lead on the left (closest to the gray connector) is the battery positive, the lead on the right (farthest from gray connector) is the ground. While doing this mod, I did some beefing up of the charging system wiring. So here is a diagram of what was done. All wire added was 12ga high strand. NOTE: This shows the +/- coming out of the RR backwards, This is only for wiring, space relation is incorrect Wiring Upgrade New + Wires in Red, New - Wires in Green. All wires used are 12ga high strand. Thanks to: Original007 for the R1 RR help Zam70 for the wiring Idea

No, just a big empty collector box.

I just put 30amp fuses in them since thats what the factory harness has in it. Depending on how I am reading this, this could be bad. You should only have 1 30a fuse, or if you have multiple fuse holders, you should have fuses that add up to 30a or close. If you have 2 fuse holders, and 2 30a fuses, on the down stream side of the fuses you have 60a of potential. A dead short with 60a is enough to do alot of damage. If you have 2 fuse locations, I'd use 2 20a fuses as the smaller fuses will blow quicker than the larger one, and in a dead short as the amperage spikes, one of the fuses will let go then immediately the other because all the amperage is concentrated to one instead of both. Kinda confusing, but the end goal is to minimize the potential with out shorting yourself power on the bike side of the battery. Why have 60a of potential when you only need 5a.

End Results: (keep in mind that I am using a R1 RR so results may be skewed) Idle 14.0v steady 5k Rpm 14.2 steady No drops anywhere in the rev range.

AutoCAD > Copy and Paste into Paint > Save as .jpeg > upload to VFRD

Here is the wiring diagram of what I did. You won't have the Kriss Amp-U-Tron in line, but you can mearly cut the main feed to the battery and splice in an extra wire to boost charge to the battery. Wiring Upgrade New + Wires in Red, New - Wires in Green. All wires used are 12ga high strand. Keep in mind that when you have the extra wire coming directly from the RR to the battery, and you add a second 30a fuse, you then have on the bike side of the battery, 60a of potential. To prevent this you may want to change the 30a fuses for 15a or 20a fuses so as not to have such a huge potential in case of a dead short.

Yep, quite simple actually, hardest part was drilling a 1/2" hole in the cap without breaking or scratching the cap. Just take your time and step up in 1/16" incraments on your bits.

Radio Shack, just a simple momentary push button.

Unfortunately no, I did the wiring job while in wait mode for the RR to get here. However I'm sure that the RR was bad.

GOOD NEWS AT LAST I got the R1 RR in today and got it hooked up. Instantly had 14.0V at idle and 14.5v at 5k RPM. I also preformed alot of the procedures in the Beef UP Dem Wires thread. I haven't had an oppertunity to completely finalize the wiring, but when I do, I'll post up some pictures. I have to give a big thanks to Origional007 for providing the pictures and information on the R1 RR.

Quick Sketch of the Wiring Diagram Quick Diagram Quick Diagram<br />

True that auto's don't use a fused charge lead, but the RR is on the fused side of the battery already, if you provide a direct link from the rr to the battery, you just by-passed the 30a fuse for the entire electrical system. In your system, you could remove the 30a main fuse and the bike would still function normally. Have you looked at the wiring diagram? If not, here is my best explination Battery>30a Fuse> Y splice with one lead going to the RR the other going to bike power. You went directly from the RR to the battery, therefore the existing 30a fuse could be removed completely from the system and be function normal.