jeremy556

My real question with these has allways been how much force can they take before punching a hole in that nice purdy spensive radiator they're in rather close proximity to...........

I would think, not much. HPS brand were of a similar style - no cut needed, but had a bracket that was at least supported on two sides.

Good write up but I have never seen set of these help on a low side. I wish somebody would post pix's and show me how they help .

This was tossed down the track at about 100mph, and slid to a stop on tarmac. No damage to radiator, fuel tank, or frame.

A year prior to this crash, a 25mph low side without frame sliders resulted in a damaged radiator, tank, upper fairing, and scratched frame = bike totaled.

I sit corrected. Damn, is that an R&G????

It was

Good write up but I have never seen set of these help on a low side. I wish somebody would post pix's and show me how they help .

This was tossed down the track at about 100mph, and slid to a stop on tarmac. No damage to radiator, fuel tank, or frame.

A year prior to this crash, a 25mph low side without frame sliders resulted in a damaged radiator, tank, upper fairing, and scratched frame = bike totaled.

Hole saw works just fine

As a system that uses electricity that the bike is throwing away and then taking that byproduct to improve combustion I find it very intriguing.

The bike isn't throwing away electricity. The load on the engine from the stator is the resistance of the system attached to it. As you draw more amps, the stator will be harder to turn, using more fuel.

No, the stator generates full output (for the rpms it is turning) at all times. You can't increase the load on it, you can only siphon off the power it generates (which is why we have a regulator to soak up the power that the bikes systems don't burn up).

"According to a spokesman for the American Automobile Association, "All of these devices look like they could probably work for you, but let me tell you they don't."^[37]

Anytime you hear words like "Can I just say" or "That's a very good question" or "let me tell you"... you're listening to either a politician or a spin doctor.

You're right, permanent magnet generator, not field controlled generator on bikes.

Hydrogen as a supplement

Main article: Hydrogen fuel enhancement

In addition to claims of cars that run exclusively on water, there have also been claims that burning hydrogen or oxyhydrogen in addition to petrol or diesel fuel increases mileage. Around 1970, Yull Brown developed technology which allegedly allows cars to burn fuel more efficiently while improving emissions. In Brown's design, a hydrogen oxygen mixture (so-called "Brown's Gas") is generated by the electrolysis of water, and then fed into the engine through the air intake system. Whether the system actually improves emissions or fuel efficiency is debated.^[35] Similarly, Hydrogen Technology Applications claims to be able increase fuel efficiency by bubbling "Aquyen" into the fuel tank.

A common fallacy found in connection with this type of modification is the mistaken assumption that cars generate excess electricity via their alternators that normally goes to waste and therefore is available for electrolysis. The amount of force required to turn an alternator or generator depends strictly on the electrical resistance of the circuits it is supplying, and residual heat lost due to friction. If an electrolysis unit is added to a car, the amperage it draws from the car's electrical system will make the alternator harder to turn, which will put additional drag on the engine. As a result more fuel will be required to maintain the same rotational speed (RPM.) ^[36]

A number of websites exist promoting the use of oxyhydrogen (often called "HHO"), selling plans for do-it-yourself electrolysers or entire kits with the promise of large improvements in fuel efficiency. According to a spokesman for the American Automobile Association, "All of these devices look like they could probably work for you, but let me tell you they don't."^[37]

As a system that uses electricity that the bike is throwing away and then taking that byproduct to improve combustion I find it very intriguing.

The bike isn't throwing away electricity. The load on the engine from the stator is the resistance of the system attached to it. As you draw more amps, the stator will be harder to turn, using more fuel.

Actually, it is, as the VFR, and most bikes used a fixed magnet generator, which is different than the type used on cars.

As some more features get worked out and added I'll get much closer to unity (that is when power in - power out. Then maybe I may be able to convert the VFR to run on hydroxy gas as the primary fuel

So you are going to make HHO from electrolysis, the electricity supplied by the burning HHO?

Ya know, there are laws against this sort of thing

Its a perfect stoichiometric blend of H2 and O2. If ignited it will rapidly burn and produce WATER!!!!. ...... and less unburned hydrocarbon fuel going out the exhaust port.

What are you trying to accomplish? Better mileage? More power? I never did read a clear explanation of goals.

Explain to me again how adding a stoichiometric mixture of one fuel is going to reduce the unburned portion of the primary fuel. I am not seeing the change in the amount of free oxygen available to burn off the original excess primary fuel.

Electrolizing water = 2H₂O --> 2H₂ + O₂ (with the input of electrical energy from your motorcycle)

Combusting those gasses = 2H₂ + O₂ --> 2H₂O (with the creation of heat energy, some of which is lost to the atmosphere)

You're converting water into gasses then converting them back into water, correct? But you've used electrical energy from your motorcycle to do it. Unfortunately you don't recieve all that power back, thanks to the SECOND LAW OF THERMODYNAMICS.

Plus, you are taking up the finite space in the cylinder that could be filled with gasoline and air and substituting in a fuel that has a lower specific energy.

It has been a long time since I have sat through a Chem lecture, so please feel free to point out any error in my understanding.

Add in the pump that you are also running and what I'm seeing is a motorcycle that is less efficient than it was before. A motorcycle that has less power than it did before. And a motorcycle that is mechanically more complicated and argueably less safe than it was before.

This about sums it up.

Google "Brown's Gas" for a thorough debunking.

Race only slip on. Way too loud. Vibrations and back firing from the lean condition.

Disconnect the PAIR system to get rid of the popping. The back fire has always been there, you can just now hear the combustion that takes place in the headers as the PAIR valves open and allow oxygen to mix with unburned fuel and hot headers.

Kanadian Ken

For all you racer types out there: Do any of the track day sanctioning organizations have a problem with solid mounted pegs? I know at one time WERA rules required folding pegs. Supposedly somebody, sometime in the distant past put a footpeg through their calf muscle when they went down.

I haven't checked the rule book, but I would say no. Don't see too many bikes without solid rear sets, and those are running stock parts.

Not the best pics, taken in the trailer while loading it up.

Broken footpeg hanger, trashed center stand and shifter

Upper and side fairing, bar end and lever of course. The crackling in the fuel tank paint is my crappy rattle can clear coat that didn't last very long after fixing damage from a previous crash. The fairing did not touch the tank, radiator, or frame in this case.

What was left of the frame slider, and one of the reasons I would prefer Radar's. It is difficult to remove the slider when the nut and the engine mount bolt have become one. The bike took a very long slide, it never left the track, just slid on its side straight down the back straight at Jennings.

I was under the impression that the frame was on the inside of the fairing. Guess my bike was made different.

I also learned that a dented gas tank totals a bike. I thought total meant total loss.

Guess I have a lot to learn about bikes. :cool:

When you tip over, the fairing stay will bend, and the fairing will crush the fuel tank, radiator, and the frame itself. My bike was totaled for this exact reason, when the fairing scratched the frame.

Try this link:

Frame Sliders Search Results

If that doesn't work, hit search at the top of the forum and search for "Frame Sliders." The topic has been done to death, usually about once a week since the forum started.

If you want effective frame sliders, you have to drill your fairings.

but isn't Honda concerned with what their customers think?

I have what happens without the fix....

So why on earth would you buy another VFR? Those are some crazy pictures.

I just want to get my vfr fixed. Make sure everything is ok (run it for 300miles) and then sell it. My VFR days are limited.

Honda bought him a new one.

The VFR is a good bike, just has a couple issues, like wiring. I doubt you will find any bike that doesn't have issues. If you are able to fix your wiring problem, you will likely be trouble free from here on out.

I have what happens without the fix....

You are the reason for the fix!

"YOU'RE ON FIRE!"

"Oh, thanks man."

"NO, YOU'RE ON FUCKING FIRE!"

Hahahah. :happy: :goofy: F***! That is funny. Ok, I'm not sober right now, but it it still quite funny, ain't it?

ppm

What's funnier is to hear him tell it in person, with or without the people that were there telling him it was on fire, when there were flames coming out of the bike. His bike literally burned down and Honda bought him a new 07 RWB after not being able to fix his bike, and issuing the wiring harness recall because of his bonfire.

I have what happens without the fix....

You are the reason for the fix!

"YOU'RE ON FIRE!"

"Oh, thanks man."

"NO, YOU'RE ON FUCKING FIRE!"

1) get a piece of mechanics wire about 12" long and make a hook on the one end - you'll need this to fish out the top washer and actual spring - if you aren't removing the shocks from the bike. (I swapped my spring out with the shock in place).

WTF is this "mechanics wire" you speak of?? Is that like a coat hanger or something? Can't you just use your finger? (I imagine you are using your middle finger by now...) :goofy:

And yeah, a pipe cutter works great! :cool:

Love ya Ken! :goofy:

I could use my finger if it were about 10 inches long - how do you pull the spring out with the fork still attached to the bike?

Shit - a pipe cutter would have been the way to do it - damn - stupid me.....

You could use a 10 inch long finger for a lot of things. :cool:

If the fork caps are off and forks are compressed, the springs shouldn't be too far inside the tubes. I always just use a set of needlenose pliers.

2) spacer. Racetech includes a long tube in their kits - and its there for you to cut a longer spacer if you need it. I had to make two spacers for my bike - but a hacksaw and a file to clean up the edges worked fine.

The Racetech springs are shorter than the stock springs, so you will definitely need to make a new spacer. A tubing cutter works well as well :fing02:

If you weigh more than 130lbs, go ahead and change the springs without revalving if you can't revalve at the same time. As far as changing oil weight, much of the conventional wisdom I have read over the years seems to be wrong according to what some knowledgeable guys who make a living at doing suspension and my own observations have told me. I would stick to within 2.5wt of stock with stock valving. If you start putting in heavy ass oil, you will have way too much damping, which while reducing or eliminating dive during braking, which seems like a good thing, is actually not. Too much damping which will cause your front tire to bounce off the ground instead of compress the suspension which will reduce traction, obviously.

Brake dive is a good thing. You are transferring the majority of the weight of the rider and bike onto the front wheel, so there is close to 100% more than normal weight on the front end, and the dive makes it easier/faster to transfer the weight to achieve maximum traction and braking force.

Why?

If you don't have the revs/mph/wind speed memorized already, just shift down for more revs, up for less.

Odd to spend that much for hoses. If I were spending that much, I would want all the strait sections made of aluminum tubing to at least save some weight.

Ohlins all the way. :fing02: Can't wait to get the forks on. :491:

Your profile shows an RC51 as gone. Did you do a RC51 on your VFR and are installing RC51 R&T forks? What calipers are you using?

I had a '03 RC51 that was decked out. Ohlin's, Thorsten carbon fiber parts, PVM wheels, cams, head work, Sato's, etc. When my wife got cancer over a year ago. I wanted her to do some riding with me. So I put the RC back to stock as much as I could, sold it, and sold of the rest of the parts. Bought the VFR. Keep 1 set of Ohlins forks for the VFR, as I had 3 sets of them. When I was looking at the VFR, I was lurking here on the forum for information. :biggrin: That's where I got the :idea3: for the Ohlin forks. LOL As for the calipers. I'm sitting on a set of 108mm Brembo monoblock radial calipers right now. Problem I'm having is that nobody I talk to can give me the information I need for the disc off-set without machining thing some. I want to do this as a complete bolt-on. If I can't use the Brembo's, I use the RC51 calipers, as they are a great set-up to begin with. I just don't have a set right now.

I hope your wife is doing well.

As for the calipers, you may want to send a message to a member here, BusyLittleShop. IIRC, he had a similar issue with some R&T forks and Brembos for his RC45. He ended up machining his own out of magnesium or some foolishness, but I think he had found an off the shelf option as well.