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ducnut

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Posts posted by ducnut

  1. 7 hours ago, Cogswell said:

     

    I hate to say this, but for clarification FWIW that may be true but AFAIK is not verified . . . the photo is a comparison of the VFRD tube to the 6th gen OEM header.  If a B.W. is the same diameter then it would be true however that is not what's in the photo. To be fair the description was somewhat ambiguous in the original post.   The pic was originally was posted April 20 last year on page 29 of the thread, below. 

     

    https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/88463-new-5th6th8th-gen-performance-header-now-in-production-in-usa/page/29/&tab=comments#comment-1107058


    I corrected it. It’s been so long and my memory was off. 

    • Like 1
  2. On 6/14/2021 at 7:37 AM, Trackdog said:

    Ya, that tyre looks like money WSBR!

    That is one damn good looking VFR! Holy Shit!

    Not to go off topic, but, Who's exhaust are you running?  The can has to be mounted solid, so probably $$$.

    Did you have the wheels powdered? Price?

     

    This is my first VFR and is going to be primarily my "B" bike.

    All of my machines are kept in minty condition. I was thinking I could do a rain day ride with this bike and not worry.

    Maybe see the track, the reason for the 60.

    Pirelli has a couple good 60's. I wonder why some of the other MFG's don't offer it?


    Sorry for the delay. I have company, this week, and haven’t been surfing the web. 
     

    Thank you, for the compliment. I’m quite proud of it.

     

    Now, I have a VFRD header with a modified Staintune. I found the muffler at a salvage yard, by itself. Without the original hanger, I just welded a piece of flat, bar stock to the subframe to support the muffler. Since I wasn’t going to run passenger pegs and my new mount was plenty rigid, I removed the passenger peg mounting from the midpipe, for a cleaner look. 
     

    The wheels have three layers of powdercoat; base color, transparent metallic, and clear. I can’t remember the price, but, it wasn’t cheap. 
     

    The 60-series is primarily a track-oriented size and profile. Given the decline in middleweight sportbike sales and not seeing the size on showroom bikes, it leaves only a track-focused tire company like Pirelli to carry the torch. Pirelli and Michelin attributes aren’t too far apart for mere mortals, so I’m good with Pirelli’s offerings. 

  3. 31 minutes ago, Trackdog said:

    Cut the chain?, because you re positioned the eccentric?

    I don't wanna make any assumptions, but did you shorten a stock factory chain, or, did you custom cut a new/replacement chain.

    I was thinking bigger tire, longer chain, no?

     

    Nervous about going thru the trouble of mounting it just to see if it fits.

    I just bought the bike and it has OEM chain,sprockets, exhaust

     

    I just stuffed a much bigger tyre on my DR350 than recommended, but that was an easier job than this.

    It was just a  "F" it and try it it job.

     

    I think the 60 being more "peakier" will improve handling a couple ways, turn in easier, and may be able to,  when needed to,  ride a little softer.

    I should probably get EXACT clearance measurements and see if I can find the difference between the 55 and 60 size.

    I was hoping someone would say, "ya I did it" and fits...lol

    My first VFR.....

     

         180/55-17 180/60-17                            Difference
    Diameter inches (mm) 24.8 (629.8) 25.5 (647.8) 0.71 (18) 2.9%
    Width inches (mm) 7.09 (180) 7.09 (180) 0 (0) 0%
    Circum. inches (mm) 77.9 (1978.58) 80.12 (2035.12) 2.23 (56.55) 2.9%
    Sidewall Height inches (mm) 3.9 (99) 4.25 (108) 0.35 (9) 9.1%
    Revolutions per mile (km) 813.39 (505.41) 790.78 (491.37) -22.6 (-14.04) -2.8%


    Yes. A new chain. I fitted a longer shock that was, also, extended as long as I could and made a gearing change. 
     

    Yes. The tire is definitely pointier and is amazing to ride. It’s definitely worth whatever effort it “may” require. 
     

    The top pic shows the lower eyelet nearly contacting the suspension link. The bottom pic shows how much of a meat the 180/60 is. 

    5D93E088-37DB-4A36-B059-DE49A393E984.jpeg

    A44AE103-C7F5-426F-802F-7564D18BA239.jpeg

  4. 1 hour ago, Trackdog said:

    Has anyone tried a 180/60?

    I have '98 that needs tyrs.

    Considering the Pirelli Diablo Rosso III and going from the 180/55 to the 180/60


    I love the 60 series. They’re wider across the tread face than a 55 series and are much taller. The rear ride is much more supple, as well. You’ll want to double-check it’ll clear your swingarm and exhaust. I fit mine onto the bike, rotated the eccentric for clearance, then, cut my chain to fit.  Michelin has stopped production of their 180/60 street tires, so will probably switch over to Pirelli. 

  5. 5 hours ago, Stray said:

    Docnut, does that setup cook your rear brake fluid? 


    Nope. There’s plenty of airflow around everything. Not having a heat shield and the more outward-mounted rearsets on adapters should help, too. I’d venture to say the factory setup causes more heat in the fluid, with no airflow, all the radiant exhaust heat being contained, and the hose being routed inside sheathing. There has to be heat soak. 

  6. On 1/4/2021 at 5:15 PM, JZH said:

     

    Which heyday?  During my schooldays I knew FMF as a prolific manufacturer of BMX frames!

     

    (Why do I get the feeling we've already had this conversation?  LOL.)

     

    Ciao,

     

    JZH


    I don’t remember the BMX frames, but, do remember when FMF started getting into streetbikes and seeing their stuff on the grid at AMA rounds. 
     

    I was a CW Racing fan and had a ZX Long. Loved their handlebars, too. 

  7. 4 hours ago, ShipFixer said:

    My truck could really use some SS lines, along with a couple other things.


    On my Silverado, I did Russel SS lines, EBC Extreme-Duty rotors, and Hawk Ceramic pads. Holy smokes! What a difference. Just the SS lines on the previous pads and rotors was a big difference; the brakes were so much sharper. 

  8. 7 hours ago, jim v said:

     

    1. My header has 3 O2 ports, one for each pair of cylinders and one downstream of the merge. Unfortunately, the header pairs the left & right cylinders (iow a front and rear). The technician highly preferred front-front & rear-rear cylinders for tuning purposes. As he said, the temp difference between front and rear cylinders is large enough to make a difference. We ended up using the single O2 port past the merge to tune.


    These are 180° engines, which is why the cylinders are paired as they are. Pairing them, both fronts and both rears as a 360° engine is done, will cause running issues and kill power on an 800. Black Widow have their header paired that way. I tried one and it was everything I could do to get my bike started. Once running, it acted like is was flooding, up to ~4K rpm. That experience is what got me to buy this header. 

    • Like 1
  9. Yep. You want a Shindengen SH847 Series R/R. You can go the Roadstercycle route, which contains everything and is a simple swap (I have his kits on 2 of my bikes). Or, you can find a 2014+ Suzuki V-Strom 1000 R/R, which is an SH847, and build your own kit. 
     

    This is how you want to connect your new R/R. 

    FE1CE15F-F2AE-4109-AC09-5DF53EBC0C7B.jpeg

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  10. 9 hours ago, petarm said:

    So I'm now beginning to consider new fork internals and as I have Maxton shock and fork internals on my 2005 SV1000s which is my track bike, I thought I'd speak to them first.

     ^^^ This is what you need to do.

    You’ve had decent suspension and, now, have that experience to compare to something stock. You’re never going to be happy with stock components, from now on. Just spend the money on Maxton internals.
     

    All my bikes have their front and rear suspensions reworked. It’s just a given, for me. 

    • Thanks 1
  11. 18 hours ago, Cogswell said:

    I guess once the mid pipe has been expanded there's no going back - it would be too big for the stock headers (thinking of when / if the bike is sold) - haven't figured out any way of filling the gap to go back to a smaller diameter header. 


    I’m not worrying about it. At the point my bike is sold, the value of the individual bits on it will be of no consequence. 

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