RossR

Miguel,

You have been very quiet since your first announcement about closing VFRD, but if you have been reading all the posts you should feel very proud that you created a site that so many people feel is a treasure trove of information AND camaraderie. Please don't let it go!

This is truly the best VFR forum! In fact, the best and friendliest forum that I belong to!

Ross

On 5/26/2023 at 3:45 AM, Northesk said:

I've been mostly a lurker on here, but I am sad to hear that VFRD is to meet its end soon.

 

I don't know whether this suggestion may be helpful, but maybe a Discord server could be an option for those who want to share VFR tips, builds, advice and that sort of thing? I've found this forum to be the best in how it's all laid out and easy to navigate, so I was hoping that maybe an idea is to transplant that over to Discord?

YES! This is the best VFR forum with a good layout and the friendliest and most helpful members!   😢that it is ending.

On 5/14/2022 at 4:08 PM, comradeQuestion said:

My bike has aftermarket clutch and brake lines which are noticeably longer than stock.  They're actually a little too long, but its not a big deal.  The fast idle cable is stock since it had obviously never been removed from the throttle body when I pulled the bike apart.

 

The problem isn't the lines, its the handlebars, levers, or master cylinders hitting the fairing (or tank).  I'm going through this right now with my project bike that has cbr600f4i forks and bars on it.  They aren't angled correctly and don't have the same rise, so they either hit the tank or levers start hitting the fairing.

I meant that I would be interested in the Convertibars if they do not work for you, not the lines.

On 6/26/2022 at 2:38 PM, bmart said:

Unwilling to spend the dosh on Helibars, which are a mediocre solution anyway, I ordered a set of extenders from Russia's friend Belarus. I can't believe that they actually made it, and that there were no made up fees. 

 

Tidy packaging. Quality parts, although deburring could have been better. Reused stock O-rings and the safety clips aren't needed (there's no space for them, but they could have machined it in...)

 

Easy adjustment with 10mm socket/wrench, so better than stock in that regard. I set them up with the same intended sag as the stockers. I need to check that before riding. 

 

It would not be difficult to raise them a tad more, if the cables/hoses would allow, with washers/shims keeping the alignment pins engaged (less than fully). 

 

Comfort shouldn't be worse! $106 delivered. Helibars are now a completely stupid $359 delivered. Surely worth a go!

 

A few shots of the difference on the bench and installed:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes, Helibars are a stupid price for what they are. Good marketing, just like Corbin seats.

Let as know what your riding experience is with those risers. I had put them into my Watch List on ebay.

Better to buy adjustable Convertibars if one is going down that route. I have not seen a single person who regretted buying Convertibars. Can't say the same for Helibars. The only thing is that your outlay is high up front as you do need to change all lines to get the best benefit. They are adjustable 4" up (possibly higher) and 4" back and the angle of clip on is adjustable too.

https://www.convertibars.com/product-p/honda-vfr-800-98-99.htm

AND, you can adjust the parameters in a few minutes with an Allen key when on the road so you 'tour' or 'track'.

Not sure if these have been mentioned before on this thread.

Apex clip ons are similar but their clamp is not as good as Convertibars. This was pointed out by a competitive cyclist on another forum who knew something about seat clamps. I think he said that Apex thread into the metal and will eventually fail, whereas Convertibars don't. I can't offer any opinion on that.

https://www.apexmfg.com/all-products/apex-clip-ons/apex-3-riser-clip-on-set

Windshield trimming may be required with both these.

1 hour ago, Terry said:

Hi Ross

 

All that will get you is externally adjustable rebound damping, but all the stock setup shortcomings are still there; the VTR damper parts are identical to the VFR, just with the adjustable rebound bleed. My view is that the VFR is undersprung and overdamped as stock, which gives a harsh ride. The main culprit is the compression valve body which is overly restrictive to compensate for an overly soft spring (for less Japanese-sized riders anyway).

 

If money is tight then for best effect I would spend it first on a set of compression Gold Valves, then springs (something like 0.9-0.95 kg/mm seems right to me), then rebound Gold Valves, and last on the VTR adjusters. Jamie Daugherty certainly knows a thing or to and I've used his parts as an alternative to Racetech. 

 

Just my 2c worth. 

Terry

👍👍👍

16 hours ago, Terry said:

Not correct. The fork tubes are different diameters as you say, but the cartridges are all the same 20mm OD in all the Showa forks that I've seen. There are model-specific differences e.g. in the valve base at the bottom where the CBR has a larger diameter bolt securing it to the fork, but that valve base is still intended for the 20mm cartridge tube. If you work through the Racetech site you will probably see the same part numbers listed for Gold Valves for the different bikes as well. 

 

If you want to make your 5G forks externally adjustable you should get the fork caps and cartridges off the VTR1000F Superhawk/Firestorm. That cap will screw straight into the VFR fork, and you will get adjustable rebound. You are right that a F4i cap is 43mm and won't fit the 41mm VFR fork. 

Thanks Terry,

As I said, I am at kindergarten level.

So, fork caps and cartridges off the VTR1000F Superhawk/Firestorm plus an appropriate spring change, and the correct grade of oil would be a quick upgrade.

How bad/good is the quality of the OEM fork spring? I've seen posts by Jamie Daugherty where he says that the rear shock spring is appropriate for a 12lb person, and judging from the feedback on the VFR forums and the CBR1100XX forums, he really knows his stuff.

Ross

4 hours ago, Terry said:

The damper cartridges are actually the same dimensions, just with the external screw adjusters.

Thanks Terry,

Same dimensions but the F4i forks are 43mm so putting the F4i cartridges into the 5th Gen 41mm forks would not work. Correct?

I am at kindergarten level with regard to this topic.

On 9/30/2020 at 4:54 PM, Terry said:

I've had stock 5G, modified 5G (replaced springs and Gold Valves) and then modified 600F4i forks on my 5G. Bang for buck, the modified 5G fork is pretty good and maybe 95% of what the 600F4i fork offered. The latter seemed to have better quality/design bushings that made for lower friction and a better ride, and the 43mm vs 41mm stanchions were definitely less prone to flex. I never got a lot of value from the external adjusters as they fall into the set and forget category. Using VTR1000F caps/damper rods will get you adjustable rebound if you wanted that for not much $$.

Hi Terry,

What modifications did you do to the F4i forks. Did you swap out the entire front with the triple trees?

Ross

On 12/9/2021 at 6:40 AM, raYzerman said:

If you want more adjustability, try Convertibars.... I was lucky enough to find a used set... pretty rare they come up for sale.

 

https://www.convertibars.com/Default.asp

Could you post photos and/or your opinion about them on the 5th Gen? 

On 12/11/2021 at 12:07 PM, comradeQuestion said:

My bike came with Convertibars.  Not really sure I like them, but they do get you more upright.  There's just barely any room between the tank and nose fairing for you to change the handlebar position, so the convertibars have to be angled awkwardly for my hands.  Also, I can't have the clutch lever angled far enough down, so my wrist is in extension when operating the clutch which fatigues my wrist quickly.  It seems like every aftermarket handlebar I've looked at would interfere with the fairing and/or tank, or would need extended throttle cables.

Do you know whether the brake lines were changed for longer ones. Without changing lines and cables appropriately for the rise that you want, I don't think that you can get the full benefit of the Convertibars. The 'choke' cable might also have to be changed if you want them high.

If you don't like them and decide to sell them, please let me know.

On 1/24/2012 at 1:40 AM, Veefer800Canuck said:

RC51 forks on a 1999 VFR800. No, I would not switch back.

The longer trail due to the RC51 triples different offset makes the bike steer slower (all else being equal) but on my bike, the front end is slightly lower than stock, and the rear end, I raised up, plus the handlebars are wider for more leverage, so it pretty much cancels that effect right out.

The brakes are absolutely stupid, and the ride quality and adjustability are far better than the standard VFR boingers. I added an Ohlins rear shock, courtesy of a VFRd member, and the transformation is complete.

Old thread, but since you are a Forum moderator I am hoping to get a reply. What handlebars did you have on this very nice looking VFR? They look wider and higher than Helibars.

I am not sure if this has been posted before but I just came across this website dedicated to the VFR (primarily the second-gen 1986-87 VFR 700/750), and set up by a VFR enthusiast by the name of Joe Nelson. I would be surprised if he isn't a member of this forum. Some useful articles, some (possibly hard to find) parts, an interesting Blog, and some history on the VFR

Maintenance - v4 Dreams

Hi RossR,

Thank you for your donation of 15.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

Thanks Seb. That's where I should have posted this thread in the first place. I the Moderator or anyone can tell me how to do that it's where it belongs.

On 1/1/2019 at 11:39 AM, SEBSPEED said:

I did a write up here on using PlastiFix

I did a forum search for PlastiFix, and your thread does not come up. can you please post a link. Thanks.

6 hours ago, MaxSwell said:

I've always thought fifth gen fairings were ABS. I cannot remenber for sure what I used to fix the trim around turn signal spaces, perhaps PlastEase, but my results have been so so. 

I think that you are absolutely right. That's why I made the point of saying that one must make sure that the adhesive and technique match the type of plastic. There was a guy at the last local motorcycle show who was selling a kit for fairing ABS repair, but I have misplaced the literature. When it turns up I will post the details. In the meantime here are links to some advice.

https://advrider.com/f/threads/repairing-broken-abs-parts.586425/

https://www.webbikeworld.com/repairing-motorcycle-saddle-bags/

1 hour ago, Hingley said:

Do you know the code of Honda motorcycle plastics and what car bumper plastics code is?

 

It might be different for each model. You have to look at the the back as Duc2V4 has posted. In his image you see the code PA6 +PPE which is mix of two different plastics. Usually it's just one type. Once you find the code Google it and you will find out the type of plastic. Some fairings are ABS which apparently is easier to work with.

PPE is polypropylene which is notoriously difficult to glue or paint. My Givi E-41 cases are PPE.

I came across this article and video and thought that it might be of use to anyone attempting to repair broken tabs on their fairings. Remember to always look at plastic Type code on the inside of the fairing before you buy the appropriate adhesive.

https://diy-auto-repair.wonderhowto.com/how-to/fix-broken-plastic-tabs-bumper-0141489/