zupatun

thats' still pretty stylish...

Congrats! Looks great!

wow...drool...wow...

here's the thread where one guy does his F4I internals swap:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/53881-what-fork-oil-wt-with-f4i-internals-mod/

Posts #17 and #18 have some key issues noted with this "swap". You do retain "adjustability" but I think you don't have adjustability on the FLY if you swap the VFR forks with the F4i forks...

Have fun and be safe.

Matt

FWIW I did the complete F4i swap on the front end of my 2000 5th Gen...I run 6th gen triples and use F4i forks, the 5th gen front wheel, F4i brakes, F4i MC and a F4i front fender. Here's the thread where I started asking...BTW I didn't document my swap very well...I'm not the greatest poster on the forum...

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/72069-6th-gen-f4-fork-swap-questions/

This post has a pic of a dude who had his innards swapped out by HK in Holland: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/69986-front-end-conversion-was-yours-worth-it/?p=830492

The think that's neat is they separated Rebound from Compression - one fork handles Reb and the other comp...so you can adjust both comp and reb on the fly instead of having to take internals out of both forks and adjust then put back in...

Love the hugger! and everything else too...

Always keep your eye out for a used Ohlins or Penske...love my Ohlins BTW...

Best O luck.

Matt

I used F4i forks (F4 is NOT the same) and 6th gen triple clamps. 5th gen wheel and spacers, 5th gen fender (F4i would be best). F4i caliper front, 5th gen rear with loop. F4i front and rear master brake master cylinders. De-linked the brakes. Re-valved the fork shim stacks as well. Seems to work nicer than stock with excellent adjustability on the fly.

Matt

Neat never saw that...will have to do that a couple times a year.

By the way...having done this I have ZERO issues with the brakes pulsing...makes me wonder how many people ding/bend their rotor carriers in a fall or bumping against something and don't even realize it is not the Rotor warping...but the carrier pulling the rotor out of the plane and putting runout out of spec...

These were bent more than a 10th of an inch (130 thousandths) peak to valley runout!!! now they are straight, straight, straight...darn cool. Thanks Hispanic Slammer

Matt

So far I like the F4i using 6th gen triples onto my 5th gen. However, I only have 0.95 springs up front and I'm currently 235lbs...at the start of last year I was 255 lbss...so I'm gradually going toward the correct front spring rate for my weight...problem is I always ride (except trackdays) with Givi bags and a tank bag.

The other thing that is now more apparent with the F4i forks is that I re-set the sag and set the comp and rebound in the middle of settings and I notice the rear end isn't following the front. Seems that the code on the Ohlins rear says the spring rate is stock...that HAS to change. I've ridden around this before and now how to manage this but I would be better suited and have a more stable bike tipping in and coming out of corners if the rear spring rate and fronts matched the bike well...

If anyone knows someone in Northern Virginia who can swap out an Ohlins spring (must have the Ohlins style spring compressor tool) let me know...maybe that Ducati dealership in Winchester?

Matt

buddy of mine had a bin of parts he bought...I needed new rotors (Galfers down the the min thickness were shot and pulsing horribly) and the price was more than fair.

However, both were not in spec for runout. One was more than 1/8 inch (130 thou plus!...) out and the other around 50 thou out.

I went and bought a Harbor Freight dial indicator and a magnetic base with adjustible arm for less than $30 and proceeded to do the suggested method above. I drilled a 5/16" hole in a c-clamp and the adjustable arm was bolted to the C-clamp and I clamped the thing down to the fork leg as in the description above.

A 24 inch bar is probably about 6" to 12" too short...but I managed to budge the carriers of both back into spec...I could have done down to .001 runout, but it was around 1am when I finished (started at 10:30 PM) so I was toast...still satisfactory results...the only thing is that I needed to push the carrier out between 30 and 40 thou past zero to get it to come back in to zero...that's about the only difference.

Here's the data for the left and right rotors before and after with some pics of the setup.

If you can afford it...like racers do, I'd change oil every weekend. Most people won't change early at 2000 miles. I use T6 and change at 6000...to each his own. I might get a package from Blackstone and do the test as this is a new bike to me...3000 the first time and 6000 the next...bike has 73k mi.

Very important to have the ability to measure rivet dimeter here as well. I second on overpriced tools. I've used a punch and drift...I'm good at it, wouldn't recommend it for most...this is even easier.

Once every year or two is when I change changes, at most...

If I put chains on multiple bikes or for my job is buy the tool, but not for once every couple years plus or minus...

Matt

I'd like a parts list, circuit diagram and code if possible. I might be able to source an EPROM programmer somwhere around here. Thanks,

Matt Roth