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About NateV8

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  • In My Garage:
    1994 VFR 750
  1. I have the full service manual downloaded from here but it doesn't always help when you are not familiar at all with bike carbs. They don't have a section on what to look for if someone screwed with your carbs and changed things from stock ;) All I'm asking for is to share some knowledge! I'm not annoying others who replied and are trying to help. Hopefully my questions will help others in the future as I have used the search function (before it is suggested) and couldn't find answers to my questions.
  2. But if the VE has been reached wouldn't that mean at low-mid rpm it would be less efficient due to poorer fuel atomization and at WOT it would just mean slightly richer than the smaller carbed 94-97? Well doesn't really matter. Is there a way to know if the needles have been changed from stock? I have no idea how the adjustments of the needles work
  3. Thank you! What was the reason they made them #128 on the front? Maybe I was reading threads that were talking about the 90-93 VFR being jetted rich from the factory with #130 mains.
  4. So I'm curious about the jetting on a stock vfr. I was told that the 94-97 had #40 pilot jets and #125 mains. I recently read some info that the fronts are #125 and the rears are #128. Any truth to this? I find it odd they would be different being liquid cooled. I'm also curious also about jetting. Many people say they (94-97) are lean from the factory but others say it is rich. I have removed my snorkel, which doesn't do much, but my muffler is stock with baffles removed I believe as it is much louder than stock. I'm not sure if that qualifies for changing jets or not. But if it is lean from the factory wouldn't a small bump for WOT be ok? Like going with #128 main all around? I'm pulling my carbs soon and if I find #130s in there I'm going to change them as that is too rich for near stock. If the pilots were changed I will change them back to stock. As for needles. When people change jets do they change needle positions? I haven't found much about needles so I guess they leave them be?
  5. I sealed them up because they shouldn't be there. I removed the snorkel for sound. It's running rich as the original owner more than likely messed around with the pilot screw mixture and changed the jets. If they have been changed I will swap back to a #40 pilot which is stock and a #128 main which is just a tad richer than stock. 1 5/8 turns is the stock pilot screw setting, 2 1/2 turns like you said seems really rich no?
  6. I'll go back to my other thread. We can lock this one up as I got the answers I needed.
  7. Where does one get one of those? lol
  8. Well 'm not cleaning them in my friends garage so I just have to throw the tank and panels back on and hopefully I didn't fark anything up while I was in there. Gotta wait for the snow to take a hike and then bring it over to my place. How do you adjust those pilot screws while the bike is running though? some kind of rubber ring (carb boot?) is fully blocking the rear ones on each side.
  9. Yep, that's why I said I will wait until I clean the carbs and confirm jets and pilot screw settings. Question though, if jets and such get blocked wouldn't that cause a lean condition?
  10. Yes they are definitely rich and the deposits on them don't help. I just installed new plugs. While running WOT and pulling plugs is great for tuning WOT, I'm having problems with the slow circuit/pilot jet, so idling and just off idle. I agree, when I find out what jets are installed it will be easier to figure out what to do from there. Since the bike is mainly stock it can only only take a very minor increase in jetting sizes while still being able to be fine tuned. I'm taking the carbs off in april and going to clean them, check jets and reset the pilot screws. Bike is in storage right now and I can't run it on the road until after march 15th and roads need to be dry and clear also. Anything higher than a #132 main I will change and anything higher than the stock pilot (#40) I will change. Honda tunes the bikes very well so seeing my bike is near stock it shouldn't take much to get it dialed back in with stock jets. It isn't the best excuse but I don't have the time or place to do constant WOT runs and check plugs. Plus stopping to pull plugs on a bike seems very annoying, on my mustangs it was 5 minutes, on a bike I don't even think it's possible to do in under 30min without burns. I mean I have to move the fan/rad to get at the front plugs which would be instant burn state from WOT runs and removing the tank requires removing all the fairings, at best I could leave them off and then have to DC all the fuel lines to remove tank on the side of the road. No thanks lol
  11. Cool, sounds good. By may 20th it may be +18! A good chunk of February was above 0!!
  12. All good, I know where the pilot screws are now. I'm going to remove carbs here next month and clean them and check the jets. I will report on that when I find out. Next on my list is brakes.
  13. Alright well I will wait until I clean the carbs later this spring. Probably in april. I can then check to see if it has a jet kit and should fix any plugged ports in the carbs. I will then reset the pilot screws to 1 3/8 out. If it has a jet kit should I go back to stock jets? I think the stock jets are 130 main and 40 pilot, maybe anything bigger than 132 main and 42 pilot I should replace? I'm not sure what a good jet size is for a near stock vfr 750.
  14. Bringing this back from the dead but I live in brossard

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