kaldek

Yes, the Autotune is basically a Wideband Commander 2 hooked into the PCV. The PCV is what performs the dynamic fuel adjustment based on the data from the Autotune signal. This would be a good device to have on the Supercharged motor, with customised AFR entries set to nice and safe numbers when under boost. An advantage of this would be if your fuel was of poor quality for some reason and you suddenly started to run lean, the Autotune could fix it by sending more fuel before you damaged the motor. There is a flipside to this however, in that a failure of the Autotune could possibly result in a dynamic adjustment to LEAN mixture. The risks would really be about the same as driving a factory boosted engine though, so I consider it low risk. Actually, you can reduce the risk even further by setting a maximim enleanment value in the Autotune to a very low number - maybe even zero. This would mean the Autotune is allowed to richen the mixture beyond what your custom map says, but is not allowed to lean it out.

NO - If you do the procedure as laid out in the manual you will have no trouble adjusting idle. If the manometer balance is off for the 4 starter valves when you first hook it up you just set them equal to the non adjustable valve, the idle speed will fluctuate as you do this YES. The basic balance will be preserved as long as you dont go banging around too much. The problem lies with trying to adjust balance and idle speed at the same time, if your trying to get the idle set at the same time your adjusting each starter vavle indivdually of course it will be difficult. Hang on a second - what vacuum line is your MAP sensor connected to while you're doing the adjustment? The MAP sensor connects to a 5-way joint, and you remove all four feeds from that joint to hook into the balancer/manometer.

Hi folks, I recently did my starter valve synchronisation on my '02 and have some notes to add. First up, when I did this initially two weeks ago it coincided with my Stator frying itself and my main fuse B holder melting, so I was somewhat distracted. Anyway when I fixed all that up and took the bike for a ride it was running like a bag of spanners - it wouldn't hold a steady idle, the idle speed was ALL over the place, and eventually it was jerky and snatchy like never before - picture the usual VTEC surging and multiply that by ten and you'll know what I mean. I thought that being distracted by the Stator problem had made me sync the bike incorrectly, but what had actually happened was one of the vacuum lines had slipped off the number three intake tract! The MAP sensor must have been getting completely crazy readings and causing the ECU to go completely nuts. This explained why the bike was crap at small throttle openings, and OK at WOT; the MAP sensor is not used by the ECU for large throttle values. After fixing that with some new vacuum hose cut to length and hooked up, I thought I was a real smart bloke by hooking my MAP sensor up to the flapper valve vacuum hose so that the MAP sensor was working while I was doing the valve sync (and therefore not giving me any FI codes). Folks, it turns out that's a bad idea. You CANNOT sync the starter valves when the MAP sensor is connected and working! As you adjust the starter valves, the vacuum reading changes and the ECU starts messing with the idle speed, which messes with the vacuum readings, which causes you to twiddle with the start valves, which causes the vacuum reading to change, which causes the ECU to mess with the idle speed again! An endless loop of misery... In short, disconnect your MAP sensor vacuum hose, plug the flapper valve vacuum hose with something, and just let the ECU go into a limp home mode. Then, and only then will you be able to have the bike hold an idle you set it while you adjust the starter valves! And when you're done, check to make sure the vacuum hoses to the intakes are taught and not able to slip off easily. If they do, replace them with some new vacuum hose. The other thing to note is that if you start the bike with the MAP sensor electrically connected, but not to a vacuum hose, the bike will not want to run. You have to start the bike with the throttle cracked a bit and keep it cracked for up to 15 seconds until the ECU goes open loop. I think if you don't connect the MAP sensor to its electrical plug, this problem goes away. Regardless, you will get ECU error codes stored in diagnostic memory which you need to clear out after the job is done. This is needed because the error codes are errors which you are basically creating on purpose. If you have real problems later, you don't want red herrings in the system!