VFR78

I’ve put a Kaoko and the low Motopumps on it for the trip. Years are catching up with me! I think the only benefit of the Motopumps might be in my head, not my body.

30 minutes ago, Grum said:

Thats strange. Had a 1980 Mazda 6 did 320,000k,  ED Falcon another 300,000k a BA Falcon 265,000k. My partners current 2013 Mazda 3 123,000k.

Four VFR's, my previous 6gen sold with 94,000ks.

 

All of the above never needed wheel bearings!

 

However my partners 2001 Mitsubishi Lancer did chew out a front left bearing but can't remember the mileage.

Are you only referring to the front wheel bearings? And how many k's have you done? Pop the bike on the centre stand and have someone push on the rear to raise the front, give the wheel a spin, it should be smooth and free spinning, you may need to remove the calipers to check this.

 

Only looking at the rear bearings. I replaced the fronts when I had the ding repaired and wheels painted. Just because it was simple to do. The back runs smoothly. Maybe my mechanic is talking out the other end. My FG2 XR6 has 102,000kms on it and he’s never looked at it’s bearings! The bike has 62,000kms on it and all seems good. Just concerned that if something goes wrong in the boonies I have to park it under a tree and catch a bus. 

No issues yet, but a local mechanic (cars) has suggested that sealed bearings are usually done by 60,000kms. 
 

I’m heading off on a 9,000km trip into Central OZ in August and was wondering if new bearings should be on the “to do” list before heading off.

Currently, I’m just doing all the fluids, chain & sprockets, filters, tyres and brake pads.

Question Grum.
 

Are you still on the original wheel bearings? 

Many thanks Grum.

No, but I’d like to know. I’ve been using rubber feet from a stool, since I picked mine up second hand.

On 6/27/2020 at 5:03 AM, BusyLittleShop said:

Anyone one else meeting their mileage expectations running a 30 grade???

 

I have just started using HP4 10w30 after 52,000km using Motul 7100 10w40. The bike seems to run a couple of degrees (c) cooler and also seems smoother running. This, of course, might all be in my head. 
 

I would prefer to run a fully synthetic 10w30 but struggle to find it in northern Sydney. Maybe it’s not that important and HP4 is fine. 

Does anyone know if braided lines alter the way the ABS responds, compared to standard lines? That is, does the lack of flex change the actuation point?

5 hours ago, Grum said:

I'm obviously missing something! But what is the benefit in going to all this trouble for the rear brake line replacement on a relatively new bike? After all, it seems like a lot of it is steel line anyway!

I understand especially for the front system it will give a more positive brake feel and possible greater hose life.

But is there much to be gained by doing the rear? Never had any issue or need for rear brake hose replacement especially on relatively new bikes!

I'm not talking of race track applications here, just normal road use.

Just wondering, YMMV.

Grum, unfortunately the Galfer braided line kit seems to come with all of the Viffer hydraulic lines. Maybe a marketing ploy.

We all know that braided lines are an improvement, but like you I doubt I would get much benefit out of a rear line or clutch line. Fronts are a little different and make the bike feel tight.

Guys,

I will get some Autosol ASAP. Tend to just give it a once over with Jif, when the road gunk builds up, but you have made me feel very slack!

The clutch cover has an R&G protector over it. I have to admit I dropped the Viffer about a month after I bought it in 2014, during a walking pace U turn and put some minor marks on the clutch cover and the upper fairing . Hence the R&G cover, the US Interceptor badges and the fake carbon patches up high.

The wheel was fixed by a motorcycle smash repairer in Sydney with minor heat I think. They send the wheels out to a Sydney wheel guru, if it’s too much for them or to an uber wheel guru in Melbourne, if it’s really bad.

I sent photos to a few wheel guys, before I bit the bullet, and all were confident they could fix it, but would damage the bronze colour. I would not have changed the colour, if the bronze wasn’t damaged.

 I need to wait for the weather to clear Grum, before I get a good photo. Will get it tomorrow.

Found this buckle in the rim a few weeks ago. Not sure whether it was from a cattle grid in far west Queensland or one of my local goat tracks. Didn’t ever lose pressure, but I couldn’t sleep at night. Repairing it mucked up the finish so I had the rims painted black.

I’m with Dutchy. I have been running Roadsmart 3s on my 8th Gen for the last 45,000kms and get over 20,000 out of a rear. They hold their shape well, unless you do lots of freeway miles. Roadsmart 4s are now available in OZ.

Everyone has their own preference. Metzeler, Avon, Michelin, Pirelli, Bridgestone, Dunlop all make some good sport touring tyres. Rule number one would be to match the front with the back, if possible. Different brands behave  differently. Plenty of comparison tests on the net.

Returned from 4700km ride through outback Queensland (Sydney, Coffs Harbour, Moree, Roma, Augathella, Quilpie, Windorah, Longreach, Emerald, Miles, Inverell, Port Macquarie, Sydney) and spend a couple of hours debugging the Viffer. Luckily the Covid-19 restrictions post dated the ride. Whew. The country folks were well organised and kept everyone under control.
 

Changed the oil and filter and cleaned up the chain. Used Honda HP4 10W30 for the first time in 53,000kms. Have been using Motul 7100 10W40 for the last 47,000km and wanted to check if the Honda recommended grade cooled the motor a little. The HP4 was like pouring cooking oil into the bike. It seems pretty thin. It’s a semi synthetic so maybe it was the wrong call.

I have been using Dunlop Roadsmart 3s from the first change and easily get 20,000kms out of a rear. I’m a 68 year old so my boy racer days have vanished, maybe that is why the tyres last. Plenty of good and bad reviews for the Roadsmart 3s, but I like them.

I had to replace the water pump at 43,000kms after noticing coolant loss and a persistent drip. Easily done and everything is back to normal. Have seen the issue on other bikes.

I run a DID ZVMX chain with AFAM sprockets and standard gearing. I have replaced the whole lot a couple of times. Some guys seem to run their final drive a lot further, but I have found damaged O rings a couple of times, so I replace everything. I tend to do a weekly ride near the coast and might be picking up sand that cuts the O rings! I get the parts from the UK for about 20% less than in Sydney.

Pretty p$&&ded off that Honda aren’t bringing the VFR into OZ anymore, when you can still get them in Japan and, I think, the UK. The Kwaka Ninja 1000SX has killed it in OZ, but they won’t do 400km on a tank and who needs 1043cc.

Rant over!

It gets pretty hot in Oz too. Mid 30c riding is pretty common. You just do it.

The Kwaka seems to get a lot of positive reviews, but I wonder about the handling. They have put “Special” Bridgestone tyres on it to lighten the steering, why?

My VFR has about 50,000 km on it and it is still a cracker. Wouldn’t know what else to buy.

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