interceptor69

The drill bit arrived and it appears to be a simple reverse drill bit.  Doesn't look like the one I've used before but that was a spark plug that broke off in the motor.  Is this what I need to drill those out?  Want to make certain before I truly screw this up.

be a simple drill bit, just reversed.  Is this what I need to drill the bolt out?

I couldn't find that particular size bit at HD or the usual stores so ordered from McMaster-thanks for the info so I could get this done.  

One more thing.  Why do u guys think that bolt broke off when I tried to remove it?  I remember using a torque wrench when tightening those bolts a few years ago.  Is there something I should use when tightening the new bolts to prevent this from occurring again?  

10 hours ago, RC1237V said:

     The bolts in that area are 6mm diameter, and 90mm & 95mm according to the parts diagram. The longest left hand drill bit that will not mess up your threads is the 5mm left hand cobalt, which is 92mm. Measure what is left of your bolt, and make sure you have enough to grab onto with your drill. Luckily there should be no tension on the broken piece, and you can also subtract the thickness of the slave cylinder mounting flange - make sure it is not on the bike, you need all the room you can get. Put the drill bit all the way in before hitting the trigger, so if there are exposed threads, it will center itself. Do not spin the drill forward, or it could drive the broken-off piece deeper. Once it clears the threads you will need a thin magnet on a stick, or some sticky grease on the end of your broken bolt to retrieve the broken nub.

 

With some luck, and patience it should come right out!

 

McMaster part number is: 3474A56

Thank you for that detailed instruction.  I believe I can get it out if I can get that bit you mentioned.  Again, thank you to everyone who responded.  Great forum here!

6 hours ago, Dutchy said:

U could consider...

 

get a length of 6mm threaded rod and see hom many mm it will "grip" inside the hole to assess where the broken bit sits.

If you have say 4+mm thread  for the rod to sit, cut the rod to size.

Fit the slave (there are still 2 regular bolts) and put 2 nuts on the rod.

McGyver 2.0

You know,, I thought about that but thought the idea ridiculous.  Maybe it isn't.  I will probably try the abovementioned technique suggested by @RC1237V first and if that doesn't work will attempt your McGuyver trick!

11 hours ago, MBrane said:

One about 2/3-3/4 the size of that bolt which I think is a M5. You don't want to cut into the threaded area of the case or you'll be in the Heli-Coil zone. Those work well too if 5h1t goes sideways, but more work.

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/ Spendy, but good quality/fast shipping.

Thanks.

On 2/17/2026 at 9:32 AM, MBrane said:

I would soak the hole with ATF/acetone, and try a reverse/counterclockwise drill bit first. There's a good chance the heat from drilling will back the broken bit right out. If not then you have a hole for a square extractor. Round/spiral extractors are evil bits designed to make your life even harder when they inevitably break off in the hole you just drilled.

Thanks.  What size drill bit would u try?  That's a small bolt.

Thanks.  I'm not looking fwd to it.

ng to remove it that holds the clutch slave cylinder onto the engine.  Now to find a bit that can back the broken piece out.  Is there a bit that small?  I have used them before on larger broken bolts but not something that small.

Love the silver.  Congrats-looks like a nice one.  

I have a copy of the software somewhere (if I can find it).  I bought on for my '98 VFR early on but sold it to someone on this forum when I bought a newer version. I also have quite a few files that others created when they dyno'd their bikes for the '98 version.

Also, if one wanted the decals applied is there a source for the OG "VFR" and "Interceptor" decals?

Appears less expensive than having the old ones painted, especially if they can somehow recreate the decals faithfully.  I'd like to know if anyone has bought a set and the quality/fit.

On 9/21/2025 at 11:55 AM, vfrcapn said:

The Partzilla picture is showing the underside.

Ah, thank you.  

On 9/16/2025 at 11:14 AM, vfrcapn said:

The rear did, 77222-MBG-000 and still available, just picked one up last year for a new bike, #18 below.

 

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/77222-MBG-000

 

 

 

following this link the product doesn't appear to have any markings on it-no "VFR" just plain black plastic.  Not the one shown in photos in posts below.

Sargent seats are a good alternative.  I tried the Corbin and it was incredibly uncomfortable.  The Sargent is very comfortable and supportive and, along with the tank pads keeps me from suffering when braking hard.  This video was taken for the audio but you can see the seat as well.  And the tank pads.  

I have the same - love it.  Good luck keeping that rubber thing around the top of the screen! 

I can't imagine how difficult this must be for you.  So many memories of both bike and owner...

Those wheels...  Wish I were closer to California-I'd buy it.

23 hours ago, St. Stephen said:

Whenever someone mentions Elf I always think of the front swingarm! I took the photo below quite a while ago.

 

Speaking of stickers, bonus points for the Cycle sticker.

 

 

Is that Ben Bostrom??

Nice work.  Not sure I've ever heard of anyone replacing the "coils".  Why would one replace them?  Do they wear out over time? 

I recently had the tank off doing a spark plug change and when replacing the tank clamped the metal hose holder too tightly over the hose and noticed on the next ride a strong vacuum when trying to open the gas cap.  Loosened the clamp thingy and no problems.  The vacuum was so strong it was difficult to lift the gas cap.

I know Barber Motorsports Park Museum has quite a few.  In Leeds, Alabama, just east of Birmingham.  Incredible selection of motorcycles (and some racing cars).  Worth a visit.

There's a parking light bulb in there?

Welcome-it's a beauty! Love the silver.