enzed_viffer

which port does the fluid go through during compression?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I think it goes through Singapore. :goofy:

Yeah, what Trace said. (Beautifully explained, by the way!)

I fitted the GenMars to the VTR1000 I had, because most of my riding was commuting, and the bars on the pre-2000 models were too low. The extra 19mm the risers gave was just enough to make the bars OK (and coincidentally, the same amount the later models' bars were raised by!) An additional advantage I found with the risers on the VTR is that there was a small amount of slop where the tabs on the clip-ons fitted in the holes in the risers, and the tabs in the risers fitted the gap in the yokes.. Althought tiny, theis afforded a small amount of adjustability fore/aft, to change the angles of the bars at will, and angling them as far back as possible like this made the bars also more comfy (and once again, coincidentally similar to the angle change Honda made to later models).

As an aside, does anyone know if the bar height/angle on the various generations of VFRs has changed?

Hey don't be hatin the sheep border='0' alt='user posted image' />

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I do be hatin' the sheeps.

I worked for two and a half years on a sheep station, torturing them in various ways. There was a sign in one yard that said:

DUMB SHEEP MAKE YOU NASTY

It was right.

I was mild-mannered, slow to anger, and a pleasantish sort of bloke before working there.

Now I'm a psycopath.

:goofy:

Yech you guys really know how to hijack a thread

:D

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Cootey! 'Ow are ya? How's your kangaroo? Got heem tied down yet, Sport?

my bad. 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thta's alright, I fogive you. I know you Candians don't know wany better. :P

Besides, you're in the same industry as my wife (she works for AirNZ), so that makes us practically kissing cousins.

damn...australia has the coolest stores.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Those were all Murkn stores; Ozzie ones are generally (but not always) suffixed by .com.au.

Anyway, I'm from Noo Zilund, so if we had those kewl stores they'd be .co.nz, unless they went for the .com thingo. Like if they were Murkns that had moved here, or they were marketing to Murkns. Y'know how it is, eh?

big wrench/gorilla/LeaningOnMofoThingo.com,  i think

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No, actually that was three options: a big wrench OR a big gorilla OR a big LeaningOnMofoThingo. So that would be www.tools-r-us.com, www.gorillas-r-us.com, and www.bigmofoleaningonmofothingo-r-us.com

ive thought about this mod.  but with my long legs my toes point down while on the pegs.  i have the rear brake already as low as it will go.  an inch lower peg and the rear brake will be unuseable for me.  anyone know a work around to get me longer adjustment?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Another option is what I did to my gearlever to get it in just the right position: stick it in a vice, heat it thoroughly with a hot-air gun, then lean on it with a big wrench/gorilla/LeaningOnMofoThingo.

One down side to this method of relocating the topbox is that the seat will not come off without removing the brackets first.  THere is not enough clearance.  If I can figure out a way - or someone here has an idea - to raise the topplate - I'll do that.  MAking a new bracket that has a higher vertical  would work, but I'm trying to make work what I have.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The trouble with that, Ken, is that you would then be raising the centre of gravity again, which would be nearly as bad as the 'normal' Givi mounting position.

What about if the brackets were like door hinges (the kind that have a pin in the middle), with a locking pin in one "hinge pin" you could pull out? Then you could just pull the locking pin out, remove the pin on that side, and hinge the rack over to get the seat off. You wouldn't even need tools then to get the rack out of the way.

Tired with people tailgating me, and having to fan the brake lever to warn them I was slowing down, I looked at the available brake-light modulators available. I really liked Signal Dynamics one http://www.signaldynamics.com/products/Modules/xp.asp

and the Kisan ones also looked OK http://www.kisantech.com/index.php?cat_id=3

Then I talked to my TechnoNerd son (#2), pointed him at the Signal Dynamics site, and asked what he could do. He thought for a few milliseconds, and said, "Yup. I can do that."

Eventually ( he was very busy with important projects like Quake, GT4, and suchlike), he ran a virtual prototype on the PC, got it to work, then bought the various doodads required, built a 'bread board' prtotype, and got that to work too. Then, after much hassling, and some help from me with drilling and stuff, the doodads were assembled into a Thing.

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

mod1.jpg

I then cut the wires (green, yellow and red) to the brakelights (I knew which ones they were, because I'd already cut the earth/ground and taillight wires to hook my R/R fan into them), and put some bullet connectors on each end of everything, and hooked it up. Yup, miracle of miracles, that worked too, so after some thought, I cut a plate of thin, galvanised steel (No Dad! You can't use aluminiumininum - it'll corrode!"), loosened off the screws holding the taillight assembly in place, and fastened the bracket across under the cowl. A strip of 3M fastening stuff (like velcro, but different), and it's all go.

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

mod2.jpg

So, now when I brake, the brakelights flash 5 times, then stay on as long as I hold the brakes on.

It's illegal here apparently, probably because it's a Good Idea and aids safety.

The Safety Nazis don't like people doing sensible things, and frown upon people who take it upon themselves to improve safety without Official Approval Or Sanction.

We've already got some ideas for improvements, like using a MOSFET transistor instead of the one we did use, which would obviate having to use a substantial heatsink. The first one we tried was too small, and heated up to about 70 C. The one we used was a pentium processor heatsink, which is larger than it needs to be, but it was just lying around, and we couldn't be bothered cutting it.

Also, it'd be kewl if the taillights flashed when the brakelights do, in added emphasis. We may also reprogram the micro so that there is a decaying flash rate, rather than steady one, so it starts off flashing fast then slows down.

But it's all good, and for ~$22, it's also a cheap aid to safety.

And I've got my stories sorted out for when the Safety Nazis object and try to ticket me. Interfering bastids.

I do know that after installing the PCII and O2 elim. and getting a good map in it, I still had a very moderate flat spot around 4500-5500.  Opening up the airbox has eliminated it, and the tank-lift was done at the same time.  I don't know if there is more top-end power, but the mid-range is much improved.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Interesting, but not unexpected. I found when playing around with the PCII that I had to LEAN the mixture out a bit at 5k rpm to get it to run right. I was sure initially that it needed more fuel, but the more I added, the worse it ran. So, I had a look at a few maps and found they had some minus figures there. Thinking about it, I suspect Honda allows for the effect of opening the flapper valve, and dumps more fuel in, but it's not quite right. Certainly leaning it out took away some hesitation.

So, it's possible your mods actually helped the standard map to not be slightly rich.

Nice setup, Miguel.

I have a question not really related to that - where did you get your CF (or fake CF?) triple clamp cover from?

I put some 1/4" spacers under the front mounting tabs, and found some longer stainless bolts at the marine supply store here.  ...... The result is more air coming in under the front of the tank.  I haven't had it dynoed yet, but the tank lift seems to help in the midrange, which is where we need it.  Sounds great, too.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That's interesting, and it would be good to find out if it does help, as it's easy to get misled by wishful thinking or it sounding more powerful.

No, I'm not saying this is the case with you, Keith.

I had a VF500, which has a snorkel that sits more on top of the airbox than in front of it. Because it wasn't glued on properly, it could rotate, so I tried it a few times with the opening facing forwards rather than backwards. I'm sure it helped, especially with headwinds, as I had this theory that there was a negative pressure area under the rear of the tank, and it made it harder for the engine to suck air in with the snorkel facing backwards.

I do know that having an aftermarket foam filter AND the snorkel facing forwards caused my carbs to ice up on one ride.

Here is the final product, I painted it with black krylon fusion paint to make it all black and added aluminum screen to the front to keep leaves, bugs and other large things out.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Why didn't you paint it after adding the screen?

... we have been together for 4 years now, so it is basically a formality.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Mebbe.

My woman-thing and I had been together about 4 years before we married, and I thought it wouldn't make much difference, but it did. We both felt more secure, more committed, happier. That was in 1982.

Or was it '81? :warranty:

I do know it was September 4th. :goofy:

Are you looking at the shift light for each shift?  If so, how is that any different than looking at a tach? 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Unlike a tach, where you need to look at the dial to interpret it, a shift light doesn't require you to look at it at all, as you will notice it in your peripheral vision when it comes on. Like at traffic lights, the faster takeoff comes from not staring at the light waiting for it to change but from looking straight ahead. You'll see the light change in the 'corner of your eye' without needing to fix your gaze on it.

Something people have overlooked is that you don't necessarily have to set the shift light for maximum revs - you could set it for the revs where maximum HP occurs, where max torque is, or even just where you habitually change gears.

Bump.? See my edit (in red) about the horn making the shift light act unruly!? :beer:

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I think it's because you're drawing your power from the tilt thingo, and when you blow the horn, it goes, "Aha! He's tilting at windmills again!", activates the tilt angle sensor, and viola! (a small stringed instrument) - the light flashes.

"A hit! A Hit! A very palpable hit, M'Lord"

"Nay, Squire; tis but a near miss. Avast! Let us seek another windmill. Forsooth!"

I'd thunk you'd have something witty and pithy to say about "BLUE is kinda cool, for you oddballs who have blue bikes"..... :goofy:

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hadn't had my kawfee yet... just having it now (not that it'll help much).

How about: "my balls ain't odd" ?

Or, "Haven't you heard - blue is the new black!" ?

Anywayz, I was a bit taken aback by how clean'n'shiny your bike looks in the pix. Mine is the same year, but looks like a junker in comparison. :beer:

Good writings, Mr Trace. :thumbsup: I expecially liked the humorous bits like the "8-track for your Goldwing", as I'm easily bored (as you know) and this is a technical topic (which you also knew).

Very good.

There's another potential option, which may be used in conjunction with the "triangular plates method", or on its own.

On the Gen5 VFRs, the eccentric in the rear hub is positioned so that with a normal chain/sprockets, the eccentric is below the swingarm. There was a mod publicised some time ago for earlier model VFRs that involved reversing the eccentric so it was in this position, which had the effect of raising the rear of the bike and quickening the steering somewhat. I tried this on my 1990 VFR, and it worked well, raising the rear by (IIRC) about an inch. I'd imagine that the reverse is possible, and that rotating the eccentric on the 5th/6th gen bikes so it is in the 'normal' position for the earlier generation VFRs would lower the rear by about an inch.

I have a suspicion in the back of my tiny mind though, that there might be a problem with some bolts somewhere in the hub blocking complete rotation. This wasn't a problem on the earlier models, but IIRC it could be on later models.

Worth a try!

Oh - and before someone asks - the procedure is:

1. Loosen the pinch bolt on rear hub.

2. Rotate the eccentric adjuster to loosen the chain, but keep going, and going.

3. Eventually (if there's no bolts or summat else in the way), the chain will start to get tight again, as the eccentric passes the horizontal plane and starts going back up past the swingarm.

4. Adjust chain to correct tightness.

5. Tighten pinch bolt.

Of course, if there's some impediment to all this, ignore steps 1-5.

Oh dear.

It seems that having my posts either side of yours has snorkeled and/or flapped your brain, Trace. You've gone from sounding all scientific and knowledgeable to sounding as mentalised as I am.

:beer:

Anyway, my red herring / blue cod about the Superstorm's lunchbox missed the obvious point, that you made mention of: it's carbed, and a tidy, well-organised airflow is more important to it functioning well than our injected beasties.

BTW: would it have been easier to have some connector pipe thingos (technical term) made than gutting the cat? Or did you want it to look standard?

I can?t believe the O2 elims will make the engine run hotter.  The increased temperature condition is likely related to the installing/reinstalling of various components.  A more accurate way to see if the engine is running hotter might be to get a hand held  IR temp sensor.  I would be looking at such coincidences as faulty thermostat, fan engagement bimetallic thermal gizmo, loose vacuum connections, buggered EFI connections.

Yeah, neither can I, but the evidence seems to point to that.

But what "various components" were installed/reinstalled?

When it first ran hot, I thought, "Nah - that can't be right!?!" and considered other options: Had I done something to the cooling system (I had to move the coolant overflow tank)?

Perhaps the brakes were dragging (new pads fitted)?

The fan works OK, cuts in when it should. The bike's radiators don't cool as well as I'd like (I have some cunning ideas on that front), but seem to be functioning as intended. Nothing has been touched since the O2 sensor eliminators were fitted except the ECU.

It?s amazing how a series of seemingly related events can draw one to erroneous conclusions.  The brain is always trying to tie things together to make sense of the world.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes, that's true, but there's something weird going on here. Whether I've made an erroneous conclusion or not remains to be seen. I'm tempted to plug the O2 sensors back in, but I don't want to return to the jerkiness and awkward transition between closed-loop and 'normal' mode that I had before.

But, as I've also said before...anything upstream of the filter, short of putting a blower on the bike, won't make any diff to the stacks or the FI stuff. 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That's probably generally true, but I'm not convinced it's absolutely true. Why do I say that? A year browsing Superhawk/Firestorm forums showed that modifications to the airbox of those beasties was generally counter-productive, due to some cunning design by Honda to utilise Helmholtz resonance and other esoteric physics to maximise cylinder filling. F'rinstance, the airbox has a 'spoiler' just downstream of the snorkel that seems to serve no obvious purpose, yet aids the aerodynamics of two thirsty great crabs (?!?) CARBS (that's better) sucking in air. Remove the spoiler and/or snorkel, and things gets messy from an airflow point of view.

Yes, the VFR is not a VTR, and probably 4 stacks make for a more homogenous airflow than 2. Yet there are possibly some minor effects happening. Maybe we can discount these as being insignificant. Certainly anecdotal evidence (has it been quantified?) suggests that removing flapper valves, snorkels and the like is at least not detrimental to performance.

Anyway, getting back to the PCII thing: The weird thing is that the bike was running OK on the PCII, then it wasn't. It's now running (relatively) OK with no PC, and because my accountant will never approve purchasing one unless it was at the $35 it cost my friend for this one, it's no big deal for me to leave it off. In fact, refitting it and getting the VFR running wonderfully well could be viewed as a bad thing, because that would be snatched away from me when I return the PC.

Weird & does not compute, how did you measure it's running hotter?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It's not accurate, of course, but it went like this:

1. ECU/EFI 'normal': temperature gauge gets to 104C, fan comes on, but only after 10 minutes or so of slow-speed running in traffic.

2. O2 sensor eliminators: Temperature gauge is up in normal traffic, and fan comes on even when bike isn't at slow speed.

3. PCII fitted: as for (1). After two days, bike starts running badly (poor connection? Map not loaded properly??)

4. PCII removed (O2 sensor eliminators fitted): Bike is running at 106C in normal traffic condition.

I ride the same route to work and home every day, so I've got a pretty good feel for what the bike does. Last night (4) and this morning, it was running significantly hotter than the previous couple of days. Yeah, it's sort of "seat of the pants" measurement, but it's obvious enough to make me sit up and take note of it.

Well, I'm still keen to do the "quick'n'dirty" FPR mod. After four days of running with O2 sensor eliminators, and three days of trying out a borrowed PCII, I've removed the PCII, because the VifFerraRi starting running like crap: stuttering in mid-range, idling at 1000, and feeling rather unhappy. It's now running as it was before. Curiously, with the O2 eliminators, it runs hotter than when they're not there and it's able to run in SuperDuperlyLeanSavingThePlanet mode. This is rather counter-intuitive, surely? If the sensors are present, the ECU doesn't bother with closed-loop, and the bike is easier to ride because it behaves like a carbed bike all the way through the rev range, not assuming whenever the throttle is closed that it's time to sip Diet Gas.

So anyway, it appears to be running a bit lean, and a bit hot, so I'm hoping the FPR mod will richen things up just a tad (metric, of course) and stop the bike overheating.