squirrelman

after years of scientifik experimentation and research i can bench synch carbs to near-perfect accuracy without any need for gauges, and it costs nothing.

pm me for details.

OK u have alot more heat 2 dissipate so overheating will be problem, innit ?  on a bike prone 2 run run hot alreadi ??

your clutch won't hold much additional power.

Raeva mi verker 

best way to avoid storage-related carb problems is to DRAIN the float bowls b4 storage and crank the engine over a few turns to suck fuel from idle jets. sta-bil does nothing to prevent clogging and may cause corrosion of carb alloy.

https://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/multimedia/videos/911066-fuel-storage-damages-aluminum#post911197

notice that your owners manual instructs that carbs should be drained for storage !

i seriously doubt a hiflo meets honda standards.  if you get what u pay for, you're getting less quality with hiflo, made in the 3rd world to their standards.

not a good idea as you'll have problems that carbs don't have, and i's a needless expense, trading simplicity for complexity.  ^^mr mello has it right.

finally sold my '86 700 on cl, owned it for 26 years but need money for a cataract operation.  $1300. around here (bflo, ny) very little interest in these old bikes.

no problem, i still have 3 more  vfr's

Fi has multiple potential problems, no better than carbs.

damned if i know................but it looks to be either #10 or #12 above.

since fi has so few actual benefits over carbs, and since so many fi bikes are available now, it seems impossibly difficult and senseless to try a conversion.  anyone who can't get their carbs working and tuned to 100% of their potential hasn't got a chance with a complicated, computer- and sensor-driven fi system that was never designed for their bike.

short levers=less force applied

Made in China ??  🙄

just last week i fueled up and rebatteried the '86 rwb 700 i've owned since 1991 to get it out of winter storage.  ran great, so i rode it home from my shop (8 miles each way) and enjoyed being back aboard, but it makes so much engine noise (normal) and once the engine reached full temp it got so hot, i decided to park it again and just continue riding my '89 Hawk for commuting. 

good move bunky, thanks !!

A spark is a spark, why spend the money, why bother to change from OEM ? no advantage i can see.    any more HV?  don't think so.

someone, please, why is this any better ??

Long hose clamps (jubilee clips to you GB lads) can be used to compress springs.  use about 4, evenly spaced.

Hard to understand the entertainment of seeing a clutch basket rotating But a couple of gerbils running in a wheel, now that's cool !

Well done John !

May i add supplementary info to your thread that's relevant to gen 1 and 2 VFRs

?:

http://vfrworld.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/14-1st-amp-2nd-Generation-1983-1989

Our muckluck-booted, seal blubber-eating member from frozen Alberta has it exactly right: you MUST drain the carbs from the bottom for the best results. BTW, Sandy, trying to convert your 4th Gen to FI is impractical and just about impossibe unless your budget is unlimited, and why ??

There is NOTHING wrong with carbs and no real advantage to FI aside from lower emissions and slightly better fuel mileage.

FI was fitted on bikes for cost cutting, better control of emissions, and because contemporary dealer techs prefer using a computer as their brains instead of being able to diagnose and repair carbs.

you're an engineer, so mathematically calculate the new spring rates you will need at front and rear to compensate for the increased weight. Show your formulae and work.

tyres, too may be inadequate for extra pounds?

may need to drastically change sprocket sizes also.