Kochan

Right? I found a diagram for my model. There should be bolts holding the chassis together.

I have to manage this first, to get full access to the ECM. I will measure the suggested wirings, and get back to you with the results. 

Thanks @Grum I will definitely check those connections as soon as I figure out a way to get to the black ECM connector.
 

As I mentioned, the ECM is fixed in a metal chassis that prevents the black connector from being unplugged and the bolts

connecting the front ant back part of the chassis are broken.

I don’t see other way to access the ECM than to unscrew the broken bolts and separate the chassis. 

Regarding the green wire in the blue connector mentioned before
- resistance to the negative battery terminal: 0.4 - 0.5 Ω from both sides of the connection
- voltage measured to the positive battery terminal shows battery voltage

The thing is that it does not look like it... This metal "chasis" is made of 2 elements that seem to be permamently fixed together. There are no bolts and It looks like it's fixed or there were bolts and they're broken. Very strange. I'll try to figure this out...

In the meantime I've measured the light-grey ECM connector against the battery positive and negative terminals. Here are the results. 

Thanks for the photo @Grum I have the Service Manual. I thought that maybe there was some other pin diagram available.

Regarding the ECM removal, there is nothing about removing the metal plate, that locks the ECM in place, in the manual. I can see no screws so I'm wondering how do I remove that. 

Good point@Grum . I’m sorry, working with electricity is not my strong side. I’ll be more precise from now on. 
By “it looks good” I meant I measured the continuity. I will double check it today and measure the resistance and voltage. 

BTW do you Goya know how to remove the protective chassis from the ECM to access the black connector? 

This is how it looks like for me
https://www.icloud.com/photos/#0adW_L7s9gDe5d-PGlz4gcKDQ
@Grum you mentioned PIN numbers, is there a layout of the pins somewhere to download? 

Thank you for your help! 


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The connection on this green wire looks solid at first glance…

Thanks for all the replies.

On 9/2/2023 at 2:19 AM, Grum said:

- What led up to this situation? Bike recently serviced, modifications, new battery fitting, R/R being replaced, etc. or just happened for no obvious reason?

I should start from the beginning. 

In 2018 I serviced the bike at the Honda dealer in my hometown, Krakow, Poland. Long story short, they messed up my rear wheel hub and a few other things and, because I did not know any better mechanic shop, I said to myself that from now on I would service the bike myself. They told me that the cam chains need to be replaced soon. I don't want to go into if this was necessary or not but the cam got more and more noisy over time.  In 2019 I decided to replace the tensioners, it didn't help so I replaced the cam chains with the dedicated DID chains. 

This was my first complicated bike job so I of course messed it up. I did not put my owner marks when disassembling and I put the bike together using the factory markings. I set the timing wrong a little so the bike was starting but it couldn't rev above around 4.5-5k. Thanks to the help of VFRdiscussion members I diagnosed a lot of components and came to the conclusion that there was something wrong with the cam chains (sic!). So I decided to go back to the old ones to test it. It didn't help but during the chains replacement, I figured out that I got the timing wrong and I set the timing correctly this time. The bike finally worked as expected but on the old chains so I was back to square 1. After all the trouble I went through, I didn't have enough time and energy to replace it with the new chains so I left it as it was and ignored the nose. I used the bike from time to time. 

Then the pandemic hit, we got locked down, etc. After that my father passed away and I was devastated for a long time. I didn't use the bike at all. I started riding again last year. I noticed that the noise gets louder and more annoying. Finally few weeks ago I decided to replace the chains with the DID chains I got. 

This time I did my own markings, photo-documented the state of the things before, and checked the timing of both front and rear cam shafts a few times after the replacement. It looked exactly as before. I put the bike together and to my surprise, it did not start. The rest you already know. 

What was removed from the bike during the job:

- tank

- airbox

- coolers

- clutch cover and everything under

- valve covers

- ignition coils

On 9/2/2023 at 2:19 AM, Grum said:

- Does your bike have the Honda H.I.S.S. key security system?

Yes

On 9/2/2023 at 2:19 AM, Grum said:

- Try holding the clutch lever in, sidestand UP while cranking, does this make any difference?

Tried that, did not help

On 9/2/2023 at 2:19 AM, Grum said:

- Assume battery terminals are clean and tight?

 

Yes

On 9/2/2023 at 2:19 AM, Grum said:

- Did you check for any active Fi fault codes, Sidestand must be Down?

Yes, no fault codes. I even disconnected the plug wonder the airbox to check if this would end up with an FI error and it did. 

On 9/2/2023 at 2:19 AM, Grum said:

- Assume your Fi light goes OFF normally after Fuel Prime has completed at Ignition Switch On?

Yes

On 9/2/2023 at 2:19 AM, Grum said:

- Are you very sure you don't have a spark, not just a flooded start situation? Plugs not soaking wet with fuel when removed? Possible leaky injectors? Perhaps a bad batch of fuel? Fuel Tank water condensation? Don't have a rodents nest in the Airbox, any chewed wires? Just thinking outside the square a little!

Yes, I've checked it a few times. No spark. 

On 9/2/2023 at 2:19 AM, Grum said:

Check the Neutral and Sidestand switch saftey logic Grounds at the ECM, probe these with a meter making sure these Grounds come and go with the operation of both Sidestand and Neutral switch. Make sure these Grounds are good, not just to frame but back to the battery Negative Terminal.

- Neutral Switch Ground should be at A7 (Black ECM connector) a Green/Red wire.

- SideStand Switch Ground should be at A20 a Green/White wire.

- Make sure the ECM GROUNDS at the ECM Gray Connector B1, B2 Green/Pink wires and B14 Green wire are good back to the battery Negative terminal.

Remove both ECM plugs have a very close inspection of pins and sockets, check for any sign of corrosion/oxidization especially for the A7 and A20 pins/sockets. Give the connectors a spray of something like CRC 2-26 electrical contact spray.

Note - Your ECM connections might vary depending on year/version However the ECM wire colour codes should be standard.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will test it today after work. I'll get back to you with the results. 

On 9/2/2023 at 2:19 AM, Grum said:

For Info - Faulty BAS (Bank Angle Sensor) = No Fuel Prime and Fi Light permanently On. Also, you can be sure that if you had an issue with either Cam or Ignition Pulse Sensors or their wiring the ECM would certainly let you know with Code 18 or 19.

Good to know. 

In general, like @airwalk said, it looks like the computer does not tell the coils to spark for some reason..

Thanks a lot for your help @Grum @airwalk

Hi guys,

I'm back with my dear VFR800. This time the bike does not want to start. I can see no spark whatsoever on any of the coils.

Here is the situation:

+ The battery is fully charged

+ The bike is in neutral (neutral light on)

+ The side stand is up

+ The ignition ON

+ The engine stop switch ON

+ The fuel pump primes

+ No FI errors

+ The engine cranks

+ I can hear the fuel pump works

= No start

So the first I've checked was spark, and there is no spark on any of the coils.

The next things I've checked:

- ignition pulse generator (works on another bike)

- cam pulse generator (works on another bike)

- side stand sensor (works)

- initial voltage on all coils present

- every coil has solid ground on the green wire

Any help with the diagnosis is much appreciated. I will get back to it on Monday after work...

Best,

Greg