bdouvill

Hopefully, I guess I now opened the last parts that was meant to be opened which were the fork legs... I had the tyres removed once to get the wheels restored so no more water there anymore... The only thing that I did not touch yet (of all parts that I got) are the brakes (front and rear) as well as the clutch system (master cylinder + line + receiver). Will flush any fluid (will report if I find any water in there) and upgrade to new braided lines anywhere. Probably try to get quickly some Brembo Red pads (front at least).

Thanks for the info

Is that muffler a Delkevic? Any though on quality and sound?

Very goog job indeed. Can't wait to see more pics [emoji4] Envoyé de mon SM-A510F en utilisant Tapatalk

I found some water inside the 2nd fork leg... I cannot figure out how, the fork seal was not even leaking... Envoyé de mon SM-A510F en utilisant Tapatalk

Google gave me the answer: http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/BVFRforkservice.htm Here it the bottom of the cartridge: You can just push the bottom part - which is in fact the compression rod - with your finger. It is retained with a C clip: Remove it and you can separate the whole assembly 😉 Have to order the Honda parts: fork seals and bushings, dust seals. And extra shims to upgrade the compression and rebound stacks. Will also order a fork seal driver 🙂 To be continued...

Just removed the 2 fork legs. Only open one that had the fork seal leaking. This is how oil of a never serviced fork looks like: like engine oil way over the service due milage... I would guess service was needed somewhere at the end of the 90's (remember we are in 2017?) Fork seal is... I have no words to describe it: Bushings look normally worn to me, will change them anyway. This is how far I was able to go: I understand the right part is where the magic happens (as Dutchy would say). I did not understand how to dismantle this assembly (noted fork cylinder assembly in the manual). Does anyone has an idea on how to proceed?

@NISxMO I know what you mean. All I can suggest is that you start with disconnecting the choke mechanism for carbs #2 and #3. This is done by unscrewing the 2 bolts noted #34 on this diagram: http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-vfr750f-1993-p-france_model5630/partslist/E__1600.html#results Then choke lever should at least open correctly carbs #1 and #4 with the 2 long arms noted #22. If that works ok, then you have to adjust the position of smaller arms #20 one remaining carb at a time. You should then be able to open all 4 carb lever with the left hand side bar lever. I hope it helps.

Thanks for your inputs @Dutchy & @JZH. Will wait to cure the pump for now. I removed the exhaust pipe in order to get it sandblasted then will spray it with high temp paint. Will also remove the front fork for inspection, change of oil/bushing/seals and review of the compression/rebound stack.

Some news. Most important is that it fires!!! Okay, not for long cause I have gas supply issues. Plus the exhaust header is not bolted at the back, that's a pain in the ass to do especially since the 2 front parts don't want to separate from the rest and that I plan to get the header sandblasted. So exhaust gas is leaking from the back and it's really loud... Anyway, already a good point, isn't it? I solved my throttle cable issue, just tension that was not correct. Current issue is gas pump is simply not pumping... I googled and understand I can bypass the gas pump relay which I did. So I don't know if the relay itself is working but when I bypass it, I have +12V at the pump connector. So I guess it's simply not working. Here is the inside: Any advice? I believe I can change the mechanism only but I don't know if it's worth it. Spare pump might be more or less in the same condition. Also, the interior of the tank definitely needs a lifting 😉 I consider buying a tank restoration kit from Restom. Did that on my Bandit (long ago before gravity got me and the tank felt in the garage...) and that works really well.

Things are progressing and this starts to look like a bike. I was even able to get it out of the garage 😉 I am having troubles with the carb throttle cables. My bandit 400 only has one cable and this is easier to set... I found the cable routing drawings from the Honda manual not super clear so I have some doubts. Nevertheless, there's something wrong. When I am at full turn on the right, I open the throttle and it does not come back at all. No problem when turning on the left. Can someone have a look at my pics and tell me if something is wrong? In particular, I don't like how the 2 cables get out of the frame. The upper cable is bent has the pics show and this might be the reason why the throttle does not come back when cables are tights. Thanks a lot in advance.

The bike has been flooded in 2 meters of water (and lots of mud) for at least 3 days, see the 1st page of this thread and you will get it ;-) Apart from that, the inside of the carbs is quite ok for a 24 year old lady.

Few pics of the carbs. I rebuilt them a few days ago. When I opened them, found plenty of mud in each carb fuel reservoir... So I had to split everything to clean properly anything including the fuel line. I used a Litetek kit that I ordered at the same time as the one for my Bandit 400 last summer. So yes, I already knew what a pain it can be to put everything back together, especially being sure the balancing mechanism ensure full range of motion around the balance point. Putting back the top plate (that was removed by the previous owner) what a real PITA. I hope I don't have to split them again... Next is putting the bike on its two wheels (I don't feel confident with the front stand) so I can put the carbs and the exhaust back and see how it goes. I'll see for the fork after that.

I got a weird thing with my front disk brakes... The center of the disk is painted in black but got some scratches and I found this would be bad with freshly painted wheels. I cleaned them with brake cleaner (the exterior face only) and the black paint just vanished!!! See the pics: The back: The front after I applied brake cleaner... I can clean them better, I know that 😉 I just wonder whether the inner part is likely to rust with humidity (so I need to repaint them with proper paint) or not. It is likely to see brake discs completely rusty after the rain but it goes away as long as you use the brakes again. It does not apply to the inner part unfortunately and that would be kinda ugly - that would ruin the work on the wheels. I will let the one on the pic outside for a couple of days and see what happens.

Got them sandblasted, prepared and powdercoated in a small business next to my place :-) I paid 90€ ex-VAT per wheel but it's well executed. They did not paint the front wheel bearing location nor the threads used to mount the brake discs. They can also sandblast my exhaust pipe. Will do that in a month or two, that did not prevent to try to start the engine with the exhaust pipe as it is now. Got to get some rubbers mounted now. I trashed the front one but kept the rear one: it's outdated (made in late 2011) but not really used (except it is a little bit dry now). I will use it for now in order to remount the bike and change it when it's fully running. Will save some € until then...

I could not resist to put a picture. I got 2 words for you... Gold Wheels!!!! I'll try to take better pictures this week-end if the sun comes back 😉 Also carb rebuild is done, got to post the pictures as well.

You probably want to have a look at @TheStig thread here:

A little bit of googling shows that SC Project is apparently an exhaust maker: http://www.sc-project.com/indexhome_eng.htm

Seen it in this video (like you too probably): No idea of who built it and where we can actually get info about the build...

Problem solved. Thanks to both@RC36Rider and@JZH for your help. Next is carbs rebuild [emoji6] Envoyé de mon SM-A510F en utilisant Tapatalk

Finally understood that I probably misrouted the whole connector and that nothing is missing. Will have a look this week-end ;-)

@JZH the black wire on my own picture is the other side of the one displayed on your picture for sure. This is the part displayed on CMS picture in @RC36Rider post. So I am pretty sure of me ;-) The 10$ question is what is the reference of the missing wire??? And you are right, I have a missing M6 bolt. The beginning of the thread is damaged, I have to find a slightly longer one. I have a spare one like 1 cm longer but it's too long...

@RC36Rider thanks a lot for checking 😉 I am sure, there is the same kind of wire from the water temp sensor to the main harness, as you can see here: This one is green as mentioned in the wiring diagram - look at the picture background 😉 - so I expect to have one black for the neutral switch but I don't have it... I considered carefully the parts fiches but can find any (neither the temp one nor the neutral one)...

I had a spare dead battery from my friend 675 Street Triple. Charged it for almost 24h before it was fully charged. Mounted it in the VFR and (drum sound) tadahhhhh starter rotated the engine!!!! I have spark on the 4 cylinders. I put the new sparks plugs that I have. For the previous question, I asked because I did not find this part on Honda exploded views (but I tried). For the time being, my McGyver wire can do the trick but I need something more reliable to ride it.

Hi there, Some news. I tested again my radiator and found no leaks... I put the lines on and filled them with water to add some pressure. Seemed good to me. Now I put back the wiring harness (what a mess...) and found that I had a tiny part missing. Could anyone give me the Honda reference for that part going from the neutral switch to the main harness? I took me some time to understand that this was missing and caused the starter not to start. Look at my McGyver option here 😉 With that, then starter went back to life but the battery went in smoke right after... Need to get a new one.