HughJebolzak

This is sad news indeed.

I just parted with my '99 but spent much time here gaining valuable information. Thanks for putting the time and effort in Miguel.

BTW...I passed it on to my son.

Mobil 1 M1-110. 

Same filter for my VFR, Civic and Ridgeline believe it or not. 800cc, 1800cc and 3500cc engines. 

I buy a few when they go on sale

I also had a pulsating brake issue until recently. It would present itself not while braking at speed but only when almost stopped. The last few rotations of the wheel pretty much. Then it was an almost on or off sensation. Very unsettling.

New EBC x-series rotors and HH sintered pads for the front would have cost me $740.00

I tried the method shown by ferchja and it worked pretty damn well. Good enough to have saved me the afore mentioned $740.00  😀

Hi HughJebolzak,

Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

What about my Oil Logic ?

I agree...

My experience is that Honda can be trusted... if they recommend in

writing a 8K oil interval then it will meet and exceed your mileage

expectations because I believe after talking with the engineers at

Honda that they do thoroughly test the oil... in fact it doesn't

matter to your engines longevity if you run Dino or Synthetic... or

even 50 40 or 30 weight.... no one is wearing out their engine... but

it does matter in the amount of rear wheel HP is wasted in unnecessary

oil drag... between a 30wt and 40wt is 2 to 3 HP in unnecessary oil

drag... between a 30 and 50 is 4 to 6 HP in unnecessary oil drag...

choosing the freest flowing viscosity of 30 as prescribed by the

official Honda manual over a 40 50 is smarter because it will:

1)increase HP at the rear wheel

2)quicken the throttle response coming out of the corners...

3)decrease over all operating temps...

4)increase the oil flow at the critical bearings...

I admittedly popped in on the last page of this discussion, but I'm under the impression that the above weight oil is not good for wet clutch bike engines. "Energy conserving" circle = not for bikes I've always read.

Or should I be quiet and read the whole thread?