JETS

Hi JETS,

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Thanks VFRDiscussion

Hi JETS,

Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

Have all the filters listed in the first post been proven to be superior to the stock Honda filter?

Read for yourself, this tester feels the Honda Filter isn't of the same quality as the recommended filters.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html#OilFilters

But just like oil to a certain level, anyone will work if you change it often enough or before it starts to loose it's ability to do what it's meant to do.

++++4 on what Baileyrock has said. Read the article, then comment. We are not closed minded, but this has all been hashed to pieces several times.

MOst mc filters open completely up (unfiltered) under full throttle conditions. I think debating which filters best under these conditions is meaningless. Actually Auto filters can prevent full oil flow under these conditions, cause they have higher pressure requirement to open up and bypass.......

The only time the by-pass opens is if the filter is near clogged and causes a backpressure which exceeds the pop-off bypass level. Motorcycles do not normally have very high pressures or high flows as compared to the auto engines that these filters were designed for. The margin of reserve flow to prevent over pressuring is quite large. Unfiltered oil is extremely unlikely if the filter is ever changed, and the oil is not sludged out. I think the important factors regards quality of filtration, especially in small micron size, is the best protective factor to consider when choosing a fliter.

Somehow you are feeling the back torque that normally occurs with a v-4. I'm not sure why it affects you so much, but the standard answers are there in throttle management, idle RPM setting, clutch release, and if available, the use of slipper clutches. Reprogramming to reconfigure off-throttle RPM roll back could theoretically retard engine braking. One would have that deceleration rate to live with in all circumstances, so I can imagine it would not suit all downshifting circumstances. The main purpose of downshifting is to be in the best RPM range in the power band to use for acceleration out of the apex in any case. As some wag has said, "The engine is not a brake", although it can become an expensive one.

I have tried killing the motor at speed and rolling throttle open or closed. There is a small perceptible difference in retardation, but not strongly so, not near enough to warrant all the fuss over it as a passive device. Opening a live throttle, on the other hand, has an enormous effect on deceleration. I'd shop there.

Read some on repairing ABS. You will save yourself a lot of grief and wasted effort. Polyester "fiberglass" resin does not form a strong bond with ABS, nor do most epoxies. Go to the Urethane Supply website and poke around. Buy the book if you really want to know. It isn't harder than what you have done, but really needs the right materials to work.

Engine braking is just running an air compressor with the momentum of the bike and mostly unrelated to sucking on the closed throttle butterflies. Keeping a mildly higher idle, like 1500-1800 will take a lot out of the apparent braking. Learning to slowly slip out the clutch on downshifting is very useful on VFR's, as Jason Pridmore used to demonstrate. Those two simple things will make you more pleased than thrashing around with ECU and imbalanced throttle bodies. Just sayin'

Strikes me as how you had better figure out what caused the breaking first. This should not happen if something isn't moving that shouldn't be. I think the fender is polypropylene, and it can be welded with the proper adhesive and stainless steel mesh. Since the fender gets a lot of flexing and shaking in daily life, fusion welding is quite likely to fracture. DuraMix 4036 two part or Scotch-Weld 8010 will stick and bond well.

On CBR accidentally tweaked a rotor breaking a bead. Damn! But just careful gentle pry-work as described above worked perfectly to realign the disc.Using the dial indicator is essential. I was the carrier that bent and not the steel brake disc as far as I could tell. Worked fine afterwards.

Best not to fubar them in the first place, tho.

No road crashes, but did on the track early on, then several later as I pushed it to learn more at the edge. It kind of gets it out of your system to see where a reasonable limit is and survive the error, having learned from it. I am not saying that one needs to crash to learn not to crash, but rather saying that focusing on NOT crashing is a good way to sap your attention to actual riding needs and make it more likely to crash. Getting good at leaning and braking on the track prepares your skill set so much that it is way more than you should ever need on the highway. It builds confidence and gets the "tentative" cobwebs of doubt out of your head. I totally agree that seat time heals much, but I heartily endorse those "do a trackday" urgings posted here.

Do I Need the snapring on the top of the forks or is it safe to move my handlebars up flush to the top of the fork and just tighten the bolt really tight?

I would be very thoughtful about not using the snaprings as they prevent a clip-on from slipping up and off the fork should the clamping bolt loosen. If you have ground off the locating pins the clip-on could loosen and rotate, causing hair raising control issues, but with snaprings in place at least the brakes would still work should it be the right one. Clamp bolts become the only line of defense with ground off pins. I just think everyone contemplating this maneuver ought to be aware of the degraded safety of flight issue, FYI. My track bike clip ons have no pins and checking the clamping bolts is an absolute must that I do before every track day as one of the "kill you straight off" items on the check list.

Phots are of the oiler--a Container store 4 oz. lotion pump, modified with a pin hole to prevent siphon action and attached to Ace Hardware 3/16 copper tubing with a generous bedding of hot glue. Vinyl tubing runs to the swing arm and a stainless bracket filled with a squared off rubber stopper that is drilled to hold the exiting 3/16 tube which then wyes into twin small copper tubes (about 12 ga., also Ace hobby section). Oil is deposited onto both sides of the sprocket and carried into both chain o-ring areas by centrifugal forces. 12 ga. tubes were fitted into the swaged out 3/16 tube and soldered in place. The outlets tubes are tipped with 12 ga. vinyl wiring insulation that was stripped off and trimmed. This flexible end allows close approximation to the sprocket teeth and nuts without worrying about interferece or in reversing when the sprocket rotates backwards.

The aluminum oil container fits nicely into a black irrigation lawn sprinker body that has been cleaned up of protrusions and fitted with an aluminum bracket to fasten it to the appropriate location. Give it a push now and then. Mine fits unobtrusively inside the front cowling.

Tom

In the engineering reviews the Purolator Pure-One did the highest filtration and had the least back pressure, plus has the best anti-bleed back check valve =Numero Uno. And the price is right. The long version is even better to reach.

Che belissimo moto, luigi. lavoro eccellante! I like your welding skills and your ability to fit many odd parts together. I have had my 4th Gen on the track and they are amazingly good at it. The sound from your pipe would be something to hear.

:fing02: This thread is frippin hilarious! It must be great to have buddies like this........where else but VFRD?

Seeing that big drill poised over your VFR, doesn't that pucker you up a bit?? Kind of like that proctologist saying to you, " this may hurt just a little....." :o :o :o

B) I hope no one "needs" sliders, but as one who has used them, I offer a few bits for thought. I had rear engine bolt located sliders on my 97, plus bar ends and buttons on the passenger peg brackets. I slid out on the track at 40 or so and as long as sliding was going on there were no problems. When the bike hit the grass though, the frame slider dug in and flipped the bike violently onto the other side, smashing a great deal more plastic than any slide would have done alone.

I am re-thinking the slider deal and plan to avoid the big peg sticking out the fairing way far. I think a shorter sturdy peg makes sense to avoid engine and case damage, etc, but give up on the idea of trying to avoid plastic damage so much. Maybe a stubby slider, bar-ends(that slide and not too long to dig in and get your $800.000 tank), and the rear pegger button to hold off the can and rear plastic somewhat. I may use the Brit mushroom-style fairing bolt buttons, just to absorb some of the grinding. I was impressed how well the fairing brackets did do on impact. Clearly they took up some of the energy, and if the forces were distributed more widely, some repairable plastic might result instead of exploded puzzle pieces. You REALLY want to avoid flipping and smashing up the dash and front uppers, tank, et al.

But the VFR does run well as a naked bike......just a tad embarrassed. Here is a shot of my confession of guilty damage to my poor VFR. And after a tear-down and alignment check-up, the poor thing just got back out on the track and ran straight and true without a blip.

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naked.jpg

B) I hope no one "needs" sliders, but as one who has used them, I offer a few bits for thought. I had rear engine bolt located sliders on my 97, plus bar ends and buttons on the passenger peg brackets. I slid out on the track at 40 or so and as long as sliding was going on there were no problems. When the bike hit the grass though, the frame slider dug in and flipped the bike violently onto the other side, smashing a great deal more plastic than any slide would have done alone.

I am re-thinking the slider deal and plan to avoid the big peg sticking out the fairing way far. I think a shorter sturdy peg makes sense to avoid engine and case damage, etc, but give up on the idea of trying to avoid plastic damage so much. Maybe a stubby slider, bar-ends(that slide and not too long to dig in and get your $800.000 tank), and the rear pegger button to hold off the can and rear plastic somewhat. I may use the Brit mushroom-style fairing bolt buttons, just to absorb some of the grinding. I was impressed how well the fairing brackets did do on impact. Clearly they took up some of the energy, and if the forces were distributed more widely, some repairable plastic might result instead of exploded puzzle pieces. You REALLY want to avoid flipping and smashing up the dash and front uppers, tank, et al.

But the VFR does run well as a naked bike......just a tad embarrassed