BusyLittleShop

I've been using Lithium Iron batteries since 2009... The first was
Josh Kaufman's Speed Cell... On the question of longevity my Speed
Cell Lithium Iron worked flawlessly in my RC45 for over 4 years
despite the fact it was discharged down to 3.5 volts in the first 2
years... It was still serviceable 2015 when I sold my Speed Cell to
Bob for his VFR 800 because I wanted a dedicated balance charging
system Shoria offers for my RC45...

Back in 2009 I went for a new Lithium Iron batteries because not only
are they 6 pounds 10 ounces lighter than the stock YUASA they do not
require trickle charging... I have had mine drop to 3.4 volts and
charge back up without the problems  associated with maintenance free
batteries...

The days of the old heavy lead acid battery are number... smart money
is on the new light weight Lithium Iron battery like Shorai... not
only is it 5lbs lighter but doesn't require trickle charging and will
not sulfate... I also recommend Shorai's balance charger because it as
two modes one for storage and one for charging...

http://www.shoraipower.com

Quote Shorai

Starter batteries of any type contain a large amount of energy. During
a short circuit, ALL that energy is released in a matter of seconds,
creating an extremely hot arc welder, possibly causing fire or
explosion. You MUST be very careful at all times to avoid short
circuit of the positive and negative terminals. Do NOT wear jewelry on
wrist or neck while handling batteries. INSURE that when installed the
positive and negative terminals are properly covered and insulated
from the vehicle. Do NOT use carbon fiber battery hold down units, as
carbon is an electrical conductor. When replacing a battery, its
important to verify that your charging system is working properly and
the output voltage is within the recommended range of 13.6-14.4v. At
no time should the charging system output be above 15.2v or it can
damage the battery.

All that is required by Shorai when up grading from stock to Li Ion
battery is to verify that your charging system is working properly and
the output voltage is within the recommended range of 13.6-14.4v. At
no time should the charging system output be above 15.2v or it can
damage the old lead or the new Li Ion battery.

Battery Basics

Or why do lithium-ion batteries cost so much?
Kevin Cameron
By Kevin Cameron
September 3, 2014

The term “lithium-ion battery” includes a wide variety of possible
electrode chemistries and electrolytes, and as these types of
batteries proliferate, we decided it was time to provide a basic
primer on them.

One of the most important facts is that lithium reacts vigorously with
water or water vapor. Therefore, lithium-ion batteries must be sealed
to exclude the atmosphere, and the electrolyte used cannot contain
water.

While most Li-ion batteries employ graphite anodes, cathode types and
applications are numerous, as follows:

Lithium cobalt oxide: achieves high energy density but current is
somewhat limited by electrode resistance and the heat generation that
it produces.

Lithium manganese oxide: good for electric tools requiring high
current. Less energy density than cobalt oxide.

Lithium iron phosphate: lower energy density but long life, inherent thermal safety.

Lithium nickel manganese cobalt oxide: good for low-drain medical equipment.

Lithium nickel cobalt aluminum oxide: able to tolerate many
charge-discharge cycles; might be useful for electrical grid storage
(storing solar power by day for discharge at night).

In all cases, the charging process stores lithium ions in the negative
electrode, or anode. Discharge moves lithium ions from anode to
cathode.

Think of electrode structure as analogous to the familiar problem of
airliner seating: To shorten loading/unloading time at airports, more
aisles are essential, but providing such aisles means the space they
occupy cannot be filled by more paying passengers.

Cathodes are made with structures that provide large surface area
(Li-cobalt oxide is a layered structure, but lithium manganese oxide
is a triangulated “spinel”). So, in general, having maximum energy
storage capacity makes it more difficult to achieve rapid
charge/discharge. Electrode resistance—chiefly the anode—generates
heat.

It was natural for users seeking maximum performance (laptop and
mobile-phone makers, Boeing, and others for aircraft use) to be
attracted to lithium cobalt oxide, but a number of well-publicized
laptop, handheld device, and other fires resulted, including one in a
Cessna CJ4 business jet, which caused the FAA to stipulate that this
model’s Li-ion main battery be replaced by either lead-acid or
nickel-metal hydride batteries. Boeing was allowed to put Li-cobalt
oxide aboard its new 787 Dreamliner because four levels of security
were provided. As we now know, even that did not prevent
“overheating.”

Fire results when a battery enters “thermal runaway,” develops
internal current, and becomes hot enough to vaporize its electrolyte,
generating internal pressure that bursts the battery’s containment.
The combination of the electrolyte—an organic solvent such as ethylene
carbonate—high temperature, and atmospheric oxygen generates an
intense fire. Lithium plus atmospheric water vapor reacts to lithium
hydroxide plus hydrogen gas. Big bangs!

Industry’s response has taken several forms: to shift to inherently
safer electrode chemistries such as Li-iron phosphate; to protect
high-performance batteries with charge/discharge controls and
temperature sensing circuitry; to add fire-retardant substances to
battery electrolyte.

In the case of the Shorai motorcycle battery, it employs the safe
lithium iron phosphate cathode chemistry. Even though this cathode
choice reduces energy storage in comparison with a Li-cobalt oxide
chemistry, it still displays much more energy storage than traditional
lead-acid.

Every week one can read of “breakthrough” developments in Li-ion
battery technology, most of them taking the form of ways to create
electrodes with extremely large surface area and an open structure
allowing rapid ion movement. No large company can afford to bet the
farm on new developments that have not been thoroughly explored, so it
can be years before such refinements make their way to market.

On 1/8/2021 at 12:59 PM, Careca said:

In many cases I have used Titanium bolts instead of the standard ones. They will never rust , ever.

I've Ti out Mr.RC45... replacing every nut and bolt with Titanium and saved about 8 lbs...  I second what Danno said... employ anti seize because titanium will gall...

First photo is stock RC45 parts with steel hardware... the second is my homemade modified parts with Titanium hardware...

Second photo is my homemade modified parts with Titanium hardware...

9 hours ago, daved said:

Re exhaust bolt: Mine was in bad shape too, I was surprised it came off with a 6 sided socket, felt like it was going to snap.

Good job... for best results replace stock steel bolts with stainless steel that will not rust...

23 hours ago, Cogswell said:

They are sexy - IMHO the best mirrors ever put on two wheels. 

Ducati mirrors are pure sex on two wheels... I custom fab a set on Marv's ZX7... painted green nobody notices them...

Exhaust bolts offer less resistance if you tackle them after a ride and all the parts are at maximum temp...

49 minutes ago, interceptor69 said:

Thanks for uploading that article. Fascinating technology. How much of that bike's DNA exists in our VFRs?

You're welcome...

The exotic oval-piston NR750 DNA was first used on the 94 RC45 in the form of the PGM-FI for Programmable Fuel
Injection which employed 46mm throttle bodies and total of seven sensors to deal with mixture control... The RC45

also inherited the NR750 massive 140mm 8 plate slipper clutch and the single sided swingarm... The RC45 engine

architecture exist in 98 VFR with its gear driven cams and fuel injection...

Honda part number identifier for the NR750 MT7 and the RC45 MW4... so check and see if any VFR part sports these IDs

I'm holding an NR750 piston at Jim Granger's RC30 shop... I'm sitting on Jason's NR750 at Bubba Gumps during the 2005 MotoGp at Laguna Seca...

Bubba Gumps not only serves good food but they also allow bikes on their property... this NR750 stole the show... it's the first time Honda's ultimate V4 has ever
been seen during Laguna Seca... I got to know the owner Jason...

Here is Essential Superbike on the ultimate V4 the Nr750 or New Racer...

I'd place the NR750 on a pedestal all by it's lonesome... it still
looks down at all the other manufactures with you'll never top this
level of engineering... it scared to FIM rulingbody enough to ban

anything but round cylinders...

The BLS method of removing and installing grips without destroying them or the
need for safety wire...

1)slip a rat tail comb under the grip...

2)position the end of the grip up hill so a trickle of alcohol will travel down the
length of the gap created by the comb...

3)remove comb and twist the grip to work the alcohol in between grip
and throttle barrel...

'4)To install flood the inside of the grip with alcohol and quickly and firmly work
it on...  employing this method I have never had to resort to safety wire to
secure my grips...

22 hours ago, VFR78 said:

 

I would prefer to run a fully synthetic 10w30 but struggle to find it in northern Sydney. Maybe it’s not that important and HP4 is fine. 

Which oil is best for longevity??? either a 30 or 40 grade oils in
either synthetic or mineral will meet and exceed your mileage expectations...

Which oil is best for lowering temps??? the 30 grades flows with less
drag than a 40 grade...

Which oil is best for Horse Power??? the 30 grades flows with less
energy than a 40 grade...

On 12/22/2020 at 3:04 PM, DannoXYZ said:

 

Make sure you're using real 100% acetone

I buy it by the gallon... Make sure you speak from experience before you forewarn...

I recommend employing a plastic welder...

1 hour ago, DannoXYZ said:

As mentioned, acetone will melt ABS.

Negative... acetone will not melt ABS nor it will not harm stock paint... rattle can paint yes... I employ acetone to clean the inside of the RC45 painted fairing...

Welcome NorCal owner to the forum... by chance do you know Tony Lamperti of Tony's Toys and Trucks???

I employ Permatex Aviation gasket sealer... I seal the gasket to the cover not the engine... this is a maintenance convenient move and not required to establish a leak proof seal...

Raising the front forks slightly in the triple clamps negatively cuts into available ground clearance where as putting a spacer between the top of the rear shock and the frame doesn't...

On 11/28/2020 at 2:10 PM, mtnpat said:

Thank you very much. This also gave me the spring free height I was going to ask about next. 

You're welcome...

Going by part numbers 91 VFR 750 and 98 VFR800 employ the same friction disc...

VFR750/800 clutch friction thickness

p/n 22201-MS6-620

2.92mm - 3.08mm (0.115 - 0.121) service limit 2.5 (0.10)

Gone in 91 but never forgotten Happy Birthday...

I live in Japan 79 to 81 courtesy of the USAF... I was wearing my
Mugen Tee shirt while spectating at Mt Fuji racetrack... Hirotoshi
Honda #1 son of Soichiro Honda and president of Mugen walked up and
introduced himself... Together we traveled back to Tokyo on the
Shinkansen... I summed up my life long love and admiration for his Dad
by saying "cut my wrist and it will bleed Honda red"... Hirotoshi was
so taken that he asked his Dad for a meeting but the answer was "Gomen
nasai" (I'm sorry) health issues... Gone in 91 but never forgotten
Happy Birthday...

12 hours ago, DannoXYZ said:

Running all 4-valves full-time gives horrible low-end. 

Negative Danno... if you ever get lucky enough to test hop Mr.Honda's race bred V4 it will

re calibrate the seat of your pants with its bottom end plod, midrange drive and top end rush...

Quote Fast Bikes
"In view of the modest stock HP claims, we didn't expect particularly
startling grunt from the engine as most of the manufactures have been
claiming 125BHP as a matter of course for their 750 replica
superbikes. Quite unexpectedly, the RC45 forced us to think again;
it's HP combined with formidable torque in the middle gears and the
extraordinarily clean and rapid response provided by the fuel
injection system make an explosive mixture which measures more like
130RWHP through the only barometer which really counts- the seat of
your pants."

My friend Makota San previous job was Chief Engineer Honda R&D who

invented Honda's VTEC... he calls VTEC "his baby" and recalls his boss
being super skeptical of the idea working at all...

Makota San also worked on the NR500 oval piston racer and he plans to
visit the Busy Little Shop some day because I have 2 cylinder blocks
off the NR500 that I packed out of Japan in 1981...

Makota San down on cannery row...

In my opinion VTEC stands for Vacillating Torque Engine Compartment... it worked on heavy cars
but it proved to be too radical on light bikes... 50% hate the bump in their powerband whereas 50% don't

mind the bump and favor the added gas mileage...

Honda has got to admit that their auto VTEC is a resounding success whereas the motorcycle VTEC has been a dismal failure...

2 hours ago, V4 Rosso said:

 That is when it has done about 70.000 km in varying weather conditions.

 

Post a photo of the critical pin and roller junction and you'll see that your chain was pretty on the outside and wearing metal to metal on the inside...

2 hours ago, V4 Rosso said:

 Chains don't get that hot that it affects the longevity of the grease anyway.

 

Chains do get that hot and heat affects the longevity of the factory installed grease...

2 hours ago, Fritzer said:

First of all, I would never use gas to clean my chain,  It is very dangerously flammable, has ethonal in it, so any amount getting through the x seals will degrade the lubrication (they are not a perfect seal).  Kerosene is a lot safer and is a lubricant.

I mainly employ gas because its handy... I've used K but its goes bad and stinks...

If there is one chemical our chains can handle its good old gas...
petroleum products have no lasting effect on the X W or O rings
because instead of rubber chain manufactures today actually use a
highly fluorinated fluoroelastomer known commercially as Viton or
Kalrez... very tough stuff... It has a excellent resistance to most
chemicals including sulfur... sulfur chloride... sulfur dioxide...
sulfur hexaflouride to name a few... most important it doesn't need
protection from drying out... they will far out last a chain's life...
 

8 hours ago, Sparkie said:

Every chain manufacturer recommends you use a riveted master link and avoid a clipped on master link.  Maybe you would consider their advice?

True but consider this... chain manufactures are advised riveted by
their liability lawyers not by their engineers... speaking as a
engineer I believe clipped ML on a X ring chain are safe... that is
because X ring links are pressed on... but the one step home mechanics
miss doing is side loading the clip once it is homed in the groove...
this step insures it will stay put... I've witnessed many customers O
or X ring chains missing their clips... they have no idea just how
many thousands upon thousands of miles covered in this unsafe
condition... but if a clip is tossed on a non O ring chain... the
chain it tossed all most immediately...

For some riders clip ML are unsafe... they would spend too much
attention on the clip and not enough on where they're going and what
they're are doing... it short it's a barrier for which only a riveted
link can solve... so even thought they may not find the right words to
express their fear... I urge everyone to respect their choice...

I also forgot... you may FIPG the link clips to keep it being tossed...

On 11/14/2020 at 4:24 PM, Fritzer said:

 

Correctly lubing a chain takes a little bit of effort but it is not that bad.  Looking back in my logs, on average, I remove, clean and oil my chain about every 2,000 miles.  About every 800 miles or so, I install a drop of oil at each roller to side plate intersection.  This procedure takes five minutes.

 

This is what I do to maintain the chain.  let me know if anybody has a better system.

 

 

Chains are pain to maintain... only a belt spells relief...

I've removed my X ring chain and thoroughly cleaned in an gas bath...

But lubing an X ring chain in an oil bath was not successful  because

What we are lubing are external roller and between the roller and the
sprockets (red area in my drawing)... we are not lubing the X rings
nor behind the X rings so any oil applied in that effort is a waste
and will only fling off...

If you wish to lube the critical pin and roller junction just cut and remove all the X rings...