Grum

9 hours ago, Devo said:

Thanks for the comments, gents.

 

Unfortunately, not my first rodeo. This afternoon marks my third stator replacement. Already replaced the r/r with a mosfet one early last year. Soldered wires, no connectors. Battery is relatively new. Have the VFRness installed. The curse followed me from my '97 to my '03.

 

Going to run a big ol' ground line directly to the battery this time as well. Was just musing about "if some is good, more must be better!" regarding r/rs. Fuck it, we're doing 5 rectifiers! https://www.theonion.com/fuck-everything-were-doing-five-blades-1819584036

 

Just getting frustrated with constant charging issues and not being able to rely on the bike. Makes it hard to go on any sort of road trip.

Hi Devo.

While the MOSFET R/R is a great improvement over the old OEM SCR Shunt type. The best option is the Series Type R/R like the SH847. The series type allows the stator to supply only the power required by the bikes electrical load.

When using the series type r/r changing the 55w x 2 halogen H4 headlights to LED equivalents will also benefit both r/r and stator. In fact any form of load reduction when using a series r/r will greatly benefit reliability of both stator and r/r, unlike the shunt type.

The other issue, is that virtually all failed stators fail in the windings that are Not bathed in the oil, oil helps in taking away the extreme heat that the windings experience as the stator is basically working flat out with a shunt type r/r and especially with the inefficient OEM SCR type.

One of the excellent updates on the 8gen is forced oil cooling for the Stator and an all new very smart and efficient r/r. 8gens have been going since 2014 and many like my own have clocked up large mileage, I haven't heard of a stator failure yet, but the r/r have failed, only two that I'm aware of over the two VFR forums.

Once you do get your charging issues sorted the 6gen VFR is extremely reliable. Had three of them only one needed a stator replacement.

Good luck.

Cheers.

Wow, how weird is that!!

Wouldn't be item 4, O'Ring by any chance?

6 hours ago, vfrcapn said:

Tough crowd...

 

Aftermarket heated grips are inexpensive.

 

Bike looks great, ride it and enjoy!

No Sir, wasn't being "tough" at all, just wanted to highlight things he may not be aware of, the OP appears to be not too familiar with the bike, hopefully it might help him to locate the OEM items from the PO, or maybe certain items might be rectified under some form of Warranty arrangement from the dealership, if it was purchased from a dealership.

Never heard of the heated grips being removed from an 8gen and especially from a bike with relatively low mileage.

There are certainly many mods on the bike that seem a little strange to me.

And Yes hopefully the bike will be a great ride for the OP.

Cheers.

On 2/7/2024 at 10:18 PM, RockGod said:

I had no idea the discs weren't OEM.

I got the bike with the rear seat and rails, full service history, and all documents / books but not the stock exhaust, screen or levers. Will need to go check for the tool kit and seat height adjustment

 

Another not so obvious change is the rear sprocket it's non OEM!

8gen standard sprockets are 16/43. You would also think with the mileage your bike has done it would probably still have the original chain, and therefore the original sprocket!

I wonder if the previous owner wanted to change the final drive ratio. Check if the rear is a 43 tooth sprocket?

AND it keeps getting weirder!! Your rear Brake Rotor is also non OEM. Why all the brake Rotor changes on such a low mileage bike?

Still amazed that it appears all the heated grip hardware has been removed, one of the excellent additions to the 8gen.

Bit of a shame, there is a piece of broken missing fairing just below the right side pillion grab handle cover! And is that paint missing, just aft of the grab handle cover?

Check the rear cowl it doesn't seem to be sitting properly, sits high, and is mostly noticeable at the rear of the cowl..

On 2/8/2024 at 7:50 AM, demarion said:

i press starter button it don't make any kind of noise and it kind of looses a tad bit of power from the dash like its gonna try to start or atleast turn over but doesn't. Any ideas? 

Yeah, as mentioned first up! load check your Battery!!

Then buy yourself a multimeter, you can't properly work on bike electrics without one And knowing how to use it!

TIP - First thing, with any electrical issue ALWAYS verify the health of the Battery no matter how old or new, and make sure the terminals are clean and tight.

6 hours ago, RockGod said:

My seat was set on the low brackets at the rear, but in the high position at the front

That's why I mentioned it. I've never used the high position but could see yours doesn't seem to look right.

Refer to you Owners Booklet regarding the seat height and as mentioned make sure the height setting collars are fitted when using the High position.

If the collars are not fitted and the front is located in the high stay you could be stressing the seat structure.

Yep as Thumbs mentioned left side white circled switch.

46 minutes ago, RockGod said:

I had no idea the discs weren't OEM.

I got the bike with the rear seat and rails, full service history, and all documents / books but not the stock exhaust, screen or levers. Will need to go check for the tool kit and seat height adjustment

 

If you purchased from a dealer perhaps they could contact the previous owner, the original items are probably of no use to him.

The disc rotors look like the EBC brand. Do a Google search, you'll see.

Once again, if the bike has the H.I.S.S system its important you have two keys as they have an embedded Transponder chip that comunicates with the ECM, if the correct code is not read at Ignition Switch ON = No Engine Start. If you loose the one remaning key, or it's Transponder Chip fails, you could be in for an expensive and inconvenient situation. If you ONLY have the one key then get a new Transponder Key Blank cut and then programme it to your ECM. The Service Manual (VFR800F/VFR800X) Downloadable from the forum explains this, or take the bike to a good Honda dealership and they can do the process for you, for a fee of course!!

Very strange that the Heated Grips which should be there are missing!! I've heard that running them at level 5 for long periods have caused the grip rubber to degrade in some instances.

Noticed there's lots of aftermaket changes and additions. Curious as to why the front disc rotors are not OEM?

- Did you get the separate pillion seat and handles?

- Two keys? Especially if your bike has the H.I.S.S system.

- Tool kit under the seat?

- Owners manual?

- Were you supplied with the OEM Screen and Exhaust?

- Looks like the seat is set to the high position, check that the two seat height raising collars have been installed.

Unless you have records that the Brake and Clutch fluid have been replaced recently then replace and flush the fluid, an easy job on an 8gen. Coolant, if no replacement record should be done as well.

Enjoy the 8gen.

When you say the battery is good, how old is it? And have you had it load checked?

Assume you have verified the Main Fuse A 30amp in the Starter Relay is good? Check for any burnt or overheated stress signs on the fuse itself and that it fits snugly into its leg sockets.

Do you have the wiring diagram for your bike and do you have a multimeter?

Make sure the connector plug to the Starter Relay has no sign of overheated, burnt or high resistance joints especially for the Red wire and Red/White wire.

Suggest as a starting point you measure the 12v feeding your fuses in the fuse box and work back from that, If the 12v for the fuses is absent follow the Red/Black wire back to the Ignition Switch. The Ignition switch (when On)  joins the incoming 12v from the battery (via Main Fuse A 30amp) on the Red wire to the Red/Black wire which then feeds 12v to your sub fuses within the fuse box. 

If needed follow this voltage back to the battery on the Red wire? Somewhere between the battery and your fuse box is where you appear to have lost 12v.

Hi Mowhawk.

Would seem to be an impossibility that the engine could run with both Ignition and Kill switches to Off. Discounting any strange wiring mods!

His mention of..."I replaced the battery as I was attaching the wires to the battery it was refusing to turn off I had a little Google and I tapped the solenoid with the rubber bit of a screwdriver,  it went back to normal"

This made me think he was referring to the Starter Motor, with the possibility of a sticking solenoid or a wiring short. 

Until we get some better details from the OP it all sounds a little vague to me.

Cheers.

Bit more info....

Are you saying the Starter Motor wont turn off? Or are you saying the engine continues to run with Ignition Off, Kill Switch Off, and can't be turned off? Are there any wiring modifications?

If its a Starter Motor issue....

With a multimeter set it to Buzzer or lowest ohms range. With the red plug removed from the Relay, and Ignition to Off. Probe the Red wire and the Yellow/red wire spade connectors of the plug (not at the relay) flex the lead and make sure you see No Continuity or Buzz. Any intermittent buzz or continuity means you have a short.

Hi Skids.

Excellent advice already there for you.

Just to add one more for a snippet of info. Any damage to the Molybdenum butterfly seal coating, will cause additional bypass air resulting in high uncontrollable idle.

Bottom line is the main cause of Hi Idle is either the Wax Unit (or blocked coolant flow through it as mentioned), additional air into the throttle bodies (vaccumm hoses, throttle body mounting boots) or perhaps a dud TPS or ECT signal. Assume you don't have any Fi Flashing Codes.

Terry raises a good key point here, if your idle very slowly returns to normal just relying on engine temperature heat soaking the WU then that is a good sign coolant flow through WU could be restricted or blocked, this could be within the WU itself or the hoses.

Cheers.

3 hours ago, Joshcole987 said:

I have a 2008 Honda CBR, 600RR I have had trouble where my battery got drained and the bike wouldn’t turn off until Dead I replaced the battery as I was attaching the wires to the battery it was refusing to turn off I had a little Google and I tapped the solenoid with the rubber bit of a screwdriver,  it went back to normal it’s been riding fine for two days now is having the same problem and has drained a brand-new battery is it worth taking it into a shop or just trying to replace the solenoid thanks 

Assuming the Starter Relay wiring is similar to the VFR.

Remove the Red Starter Relay electrical connector and undo some of the insulation tape. Check for a Red wire to Yellow/red wire short. Refer attached picture.

Take a look at the Starter Circuit wiring diagram attached, you'll see if this short happens your Starter Relay Coil will energize permanently until you either disconnect the Battery or remove  Main Fuse A 30amp, housed in the Starter Relay.

Once you have sorted I would Definetly replace the Starter Relay just on spec as it would have taken a beating, I hope the Starter Motor has survived the ordeal.!!

Mate. Don't forget that beneath the nice glossy paintwork and fairings, it's just another 6gen, nothing special or different behind it's fancy dress.

I had the same feelings about my own RWB, a lovely bike, but the 8gen has blown all those cares away.

Pictured (Dec 2007) - My buddy and his sexy 2006 Black. I fiited some nice Staintune exhausts to both bikes, they look and sound great.

The white wheels, especially on your 8gen, look great.

Don't regret it, move on. Seriously, the 8gen is a far superior bike, IMO. Still think a nice aftermarket exhaust will further add to your bikes good looks and of course that delightful 90deg V4 sound.

Cheers.

9 hours ago, Flister said:

Holy crap thanks for the heads up on the warm idle. It was set at 2000rpm which I thought was normal. The first owner was a Motorcycle CHP and had it serviced by his department so it makes sense it wasn’t adjusted at first service but I didn’t doubt any of the service done. The assist is weird because it doesn’t disengage unless I literally have the lever touching the grip. So I have to grip the lever with all 4 fingers because any on the grip still block the lever from fully being pulled, which isn’t right. The switch is perfect activating at ~55% like it should. It’s funky because it’s good practice to not grip levers with all finger, but Honda kinda cucked us with that. ASV levers may give a good enough angle to make it engage but im not sure.

 

Getting your warm engine idle back to 1200rpm will make a big difference. I guess I wouldn't trust any CHP service dept. used to working on Harley Electra Glides to work on a VFR!

Change your clutch technique....From a stationary position going from neutral to in gear with some vague partial pull in of the clutch is a BAD technique!!!

If you use all fingers on the clutch and pull it in fully this is the best option. You will minimize the chance of a forward jolt when going from neutral to in gear, minimize clutch drag and clutch wear as you were probably within the friction zone, lessen any load on the engine possibly keeping it cooler while stationary, and the launch assit function should work well and consistently from the fully pulled in position. However once on the move can revert to any clutch method you like!

Be wary, some aftemarket levers don't trigger the clutch switch properly and have caused issues.

I trust you have NO problems with In Gear engine starting Sidestand Up. This is another indication that the clutch switch is working......or not.

Personally I have no issues with the launch assit function, it's bearly noticeable and works well. I've not seen or heard a bad report about it, mostly it's owners just observing that it's there and curious about the rpm increase on clutch release in gear.

Yep you've got yourself a super reliable vfr a joy to ride.

What's the history, how many miles/k's ?

And as Presson states, fire away with any questions, we are all here to help.

Good luck with the purchase. And welcome 8gen owner.

20 hours ago, Flister said:

This may be a dumb question but I can’t seem to find a solid answer. I have a 2015 year model and noticed that when pulling in the clutch it disengages but the RPM’s will drop only partly, but not all the way. If pulled to the handlebar it lowers to the same idle speed as neutral. It’s just enough to cause the bike to overheat from the idle being so high when stationary. I’ve played with the lever pre-set distances and flushed and replaced the fluids a few months back. Is this normal? I saw something somewhere that Honda did this as an assistant to help starting to move from a stop and prevent stalling, but is there a way to adjust it if true? I was looking at buying aftermarket levers to see if they’d help but don’t want to spend the $300 on them if it changes nothing. Thank you for any help or suggestions.

Firstly, make sure your warm engine idle is set to 1200rpm. The idle speed adjustment knob is just forward and above the clutch slave cylinder.

And yes, there is the launch assit function that increases rpm with clutch release when in gear. With a warm engine this is approximately 250rpm, with a cold engine it can be higher. Under normal conditions the function should be almost unnoticeable.

Might also be worth confirming the clutch switch operation (both electrically and mechanically) you need to be sure that with clutch pulled in you hear the switch click well before the handlebar. Just checked my 8gen and this happens at around 60% of lever travel, clutch lever setting at 4.

Perhaps it's your clutch technique of not pulling the clutch lever in far enough to activate the clutch switch? For a few good reasons, clutch should be fully pulled in from a stationary start!

57 minutes ago, lankywhale said:

What it does now is key on, abs light on, over 6mph abs light off. If I come to a stop it stays off. If I key off, then key on, the light comes on and then goes off over the 6mph etc.

Your last statement sounds like it's returned to normal ops.

The ABS system is critical on good battery voltage, so just check the state of your battery and clean tight battery terminals, any doubts about the battery, have it load checked.

Have you downloaded the Service Manual? If not you can download it from this forum. Section 16 ABS tells you all about it. Like the ECM the ABS has its own diagnostic error codes.

Good luck hope this helps.

Followed Philois1984's idea and had the same job done by Officeworks, really happy with the results especially for a garage pic.

Not far off 100,000k's of faultless smile inducing riding with the 8gen, definitely the best of the four VFR's I've owned, by a long shot.

Thanks again to VFR80025th and Terry for the poster arrangement.

Cheers All. 

1 hour ago, Mohawk said:

I was referring to the left side of the bike rather than the wax unit. I'm fairly sure that flow direction is immaterial as it's just a heating circuit. I replaced mine with a 99 choke cable setup, best thing for them IMO & just ran a hose direct from left nipple off take to the thermostat nipple. 

My Bad .....Sorry Mohawk misread left and right as looking at picture and drawing relative to the wax unit.

Like your idea of reverting to a cable choke for a 5gen, Less clutter under the TB's and one thing less to give you problems. 

8 hours ago, Mohawk said:

The wax unit appears to have a hose on each nipple, so I assume you have the loose end of the left side one in your hand. It goes to a nipple on the top of the left side engine coolant intake stub in the edge of the left side V of the engine. 
 

The other hose goes to the thermostat housing. 

 

Hi Mohawk. I think the hose positions are opposite to what you've described.

Looking at the drawing and the OP's picture, both are oriented the same. So looking at the left or forward hose connection at the wax unit the drawing shows that going to the T/Stat housing (outflow). The right or rear hose (inflow) goes to the "left side V of the engine".

Not sure whether the flow direction through the wax unit is critical, but best to have flow per the drawing I guess.

Yikes Dutchy, what is all that white stuff??

Many Thanks VFR80025th and Terry. A large print in the garage is going to look great.

Picture size of the file looks like it will match nicely to A2 format = 594mm X 420mm 

Cheers.

Kon'nichiwa ogenkidesuka Phil.
 

Excellent stay stay stay!!!. Tell them you'll take it for a ride to give it some good exercise, explain that this would be extremely beneficial for the bike.