boOZZIE

I think they need 10 - 15 orders per 

production cycle and if ya go back to the last run I think you might be at about 5.

Yep that 'RB02 active' is the 1 and that's the same spot I had mine located. 

I dropped the computer connection cable, with a bit of double sided tape, to the outside to make it easier.

21 hours ago, ShipFixer said:

So question...bike starts, Rapid Bike software connects to the unit via USB just fine and shows bike status.  Appears to have a map loaded already.  Do I just ride this thing for a while and let it figure itself out?

You need to select an option while connected to the bike for it to optimise/self adjust the fuel map.

I can't remember where it is exactly as I have deleted all my software 

43 minutes ago, Cogswell said:

 

There are several of us that have RB Racing modules, but are unable to load the RB software in to Win 10. The install returns an error that something is missing from Win 10, but it can't be updated. If you did successfully, a link to the source for RB software  would be helpful.  Any tips for getting the software loaded  would be appreciated!   

 

It might be that you need to download the correct RB drivers for w10. I'd suggest getting in contact with Yaman https://rapidbike.us/

1 hour ago, ShipFixer said:

Well, maybe between the tiny cargo slot in my Seargeant saddle and what space is left towards the back of the two pockets, I can make something work.  Time to get creative...

Do you do any 2 up riding? 

If not, try relocating tools like this

12 hours ago, Grum said:

Hey boOZZIE. Just curious, what is the benefit of all short velocity stacks, considering the different induction air pulses with the V4 firing crank angles of 180, 270, 180, and 90.

Honda went to a bit of trouble in matching/tuning the velocity stack lengths with the above crank angles.

From my understanding it moves the power curve slightly to higher rpm range and therefore a little less down low and inturn slightly less snatchy throttle down low....maybe. no quantifiable testing done. 2 short vstacks were au$30 so I gave it a go and it goes good.

but variable height velocity stacks would be noice for g9 🙂

2 hours ago, ShipFixer said:

Interesting.  Better than stock, no lean mixture issues?   I think I mentioned elsewhere, I'm a fan of defeating closed loop control via the key switch and happy with that (no surging, etc.).  I would like a RB at some point but if I could piecemeal this out over time that would be swell too.

No problems. See the Dyno graph 

ignore the vtec transition, that's variable 

2 hours ago, ShipFixer said:

So I have my VFRD production headers in hand, waiting for install.  To make it work right, I think I'll likely go with the RapidBike Racing module when I get around to install it.  Does that mean it'll work with a pre-programmed map or one I can adjust, until or if I get a My Tuning Bike module that plugs into a Bosch wideband O2 sensor?  

Try it without a module and with stock o2s first . For mine it is running fine without the RB unit I had after it shat itself. 

My 6g mods - no snorkel/flapper/pair valves 

-K&N or Pipercross airfilter 

-all short velocity stacks

-WiLD Headers

-Micron cans

1 hour ago, Cogswell said:

I got a RB Racing to go with my VFRD headers.  The RB Racing module I got came with a pre-loaded map for the VTEC.  As is,  it plugs in to the 2 stock O2 sensors and self tunes to your setup - headers, cans, air filter, engine condition, etc. For now, I just plugged the one 18mm O2 port.   I picked a couple of MPGs - no telling if it would do that for you.  The engine runs flawlessly, I love it.   If you want to use a wideband O2 sensor, you'll need the My Tuning Bike.  I haven't done that but it's on my list.  IMHO RB is way better than a P.C. 

 

As for the software, that . . . has been more of a mystery to me.  I consider myself relatively tech savvy - I've built some PC's,  but I'm certainly no expert.  However the only place I could find to download the software from is from Dimsport's Italian website. For whatever reason, it would not load properly on my Win 10 laptop.  I have not gotten around to calling Yaman to find out where to get it and if there's a user's guide for it.  If anyone solves that, I would be very interested in what turns up.

 

 

My software wouldn't load on w10 either , I needed a driver update.  From dealer. 

When you get the software running it has a login with your specific details that comes with the module and iirc that's where the manual/user guide is downloaded from

On 2/26/2021 at 1:57 PM, Dangeruss said:

Just a couple of questions while planning for the odds and ends to install these when they show up;

-What is the assembled length between the spring hooks on the rear primaries? (or what length springs are suitable).

-I assume the current batch have O2 sensor bungs (can't see any in the pic above) and will need M18 plugs until I install a PC or RapidBike. Are there 2 or 3?

-Is it worth installing the headers before fitting a PC or RB, or are the trade offs not worth the gains?

 

Thanks!

-From memory they come with springs 

-3 bungs. 2 for stock o2s +1 for wideband o2

-I had the RB hooked up from the install, and then it shat itself, so now it's running with the stock o2 sensors.

AFR now is mid 13s and to be honest it runs better without RB, better performance and better economy 

Ymmv

15 minutes ago, Cogswell said:

 

What happened to the RB - it just died?  They seem very well made - but that doesn't mean much - it's what's inside that counts.  If it did, sorry to hear that - they're not cheap.

 

 

Yep, somehow it got corrupted  (vibrations,heat. IDK) and was pouring fuel in and flooding engine. It was 6 years old.

Anways she seems to be running fine without 

🍻

20 hours ago, Gotama said:

I got these same numbers with just a gutted stock can and stock headers . PC3 tuned on the dyno 

As stated i have no RB anymore or PC for that matter, and is not tuned, so there is definitely more to be gained.

However, it's not all about that top hp number, as other graphs have shown its more about that midrange, where road users spend the majority of fun time in. 

That VTEC transition looks pretty ruff.

However out on the road today it was reasonably fluid and also the butt dyno says that the mid-range/torque is actually better without the rapidbike 🤷‍♂️ 

No rapidbike any more, so probably a few ponies left unaccounted for

Then the wetness came all over me..... 

Just like Donald 🤣

Back on topic

14 hours ago, lplplplp said:

thanks very much...weight?

I don't know the exact weight but it is mentioned somewhere in this thread... so go stock the fridge with some frothys, plonk yaself in that comfy seat and start from way way way back in the beginning of this journey 🍻🍻

Yep

92cm x 42cm x42cm

so it appears from member Danll that 9ft/lb is the correct torque spec for these bolts

Thanks Danll for the correct torque setting. 

I knew the 20 wasn't correct, just not what they should be.

I thought that's how H numbered the cylinders. 

Drawing is confusious.

Instead of "front" being written on the left with an arrow pointing to the top, wouldn't it be clearer if "front" was written above the numbered squares 🤔

11 hours ago, Dutchy said:

N+1…............. MBD......

 

Call it what you will....

 

 

It needs some serious TLC, beauty is indeed skin deep...

 

 

 

Drum roll.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

new old redslut. Noice.

Hope u take better care of this one 😛

Is that a signature on the front wheel fender?

Does this contradict the front/back lean/rich?

🤔 WiLD Headers o2 sensors are 1+2 (L) & 3+4(R), same with RB injection maps. so you may have to go Mohawk's route and add some more bungs and individually map with 1 or go all out with 4 wbs

With the laptop connected to the RB you can go into configuration of injection maps. im not sure if they can be changed to 1+3(B) & 2+4(F)

I'm reading that as the internal cct bolt p297 sm not as the bolt for the external cct lifter or are they the same spec?