schwarzc

Sounds neat, maybe I will try that. Thanks 🙂

Thanks a lot! 🙂 I plan on making an "emergency fuel cut relay override switch" anyway while I am tinkering with the wiring, .... so I can choose to override the relay at all time. Or I probably make just a 3 pin connector, with the blue/black and black wires connected, that I can swap for the relay. And yes, I dont like running the bowls dry either, but I dont have much choice at the moment (VF is to precious for me to ride daily, and the garage is a few km away from my flat) - however, that might change in the future, ....but I dont like having the bowls full, either, since this clogs the jets and was the reason for the second carb rebuild, .... Thanks again 🙂

@Gebruiker: Thanks for the picture, but this I know already. I need a photo of the real conntector since the wiring diagram does not represent the actual situation in the connector (red/yellow is not in the center) @RC36B and @squirrelbrains I rebuilt the carbs three times, and always had this issue. When I compared the carbs of the RC15 to the carbs of my other bikes (ST1100, FZX), I found a little detail: The FZX and ST1100 had features on the float bowls, that prevent the float bowls from opening too much. I recon, that this was done to prevent exactly this issue. (Bike is standing long, bowls run dry, needles get stuck, fuel overflows) And while I think, that a shortwired fuel cut relay might work on bikes with exactly these features (probably all bikes but an RC15), a shortwired fuel cut relay will probably cause trouble on a RC15. Because there, the bike needs the vibration of the engine to unstuck the float needles before/while the carb is filling. And as soon as I service the carbs a fourth time, I will also invent some sort of end stop for the floats. Until then, I would like to have the fuel cut relay working, to eliminate further uncertainties, .... Edit: another indicator, that the carb is fine: As long as the float bowls are (semi) filled, there are zero issues with overflow. This does only occur, when the float bowls are empty. And even then, the float needles unstuck themselfes after sitting for 1 or 2 days, ....

Hello! I have a very special question - can anybody with an RC 24 or RC36 tell me, which colour is assigned to which pin on the fuel cut relay plug? I know, that the wires are black, red/orange, and blue/black. And actually I know, the place of the red/yellow wire, but the photo I have does not show the difference between black and black/blue enough - so I probably only need to know, which colour is the center wire, .... Background:, The fuel cut relay on my VF (RC15) is broken, and I shortwired it. So, when I switch on the ignition, the fuel pump starts working. However, if the bike is standing a few months, the floats get stuck, the carbs overflow and I have to follow a certain procedure to be able to start it (switch on ignition, wait until the carbs overflow, wait 2 days, start the bike)). Plus I am suspecting, that some fuel starts leaking into the oil, as it starts overflowing the carbs. So, I want to have the fuel cut relay. Now, the fuel cut relay for the RC 15 is VERY expensive and hard to find, as there are no aftermarket parts available. However, the parts for the RC24/RC36 are much cheaper and more common. After looking at the wiring diagrams of the RC15 and the RC24/RC36, I discovered, that the fuel cut relay have exactly the same working princible, and after checking a few parts diagrams, I discovered, that some early VFRs used the RC15 fuel cut relay with the RC24/RC36 fuel pumps. So, I deduct, that the RC15 and RC25/36 relays should be interchangeable, but the pin assignment would likely be different. If it was not different, the RC24/RC36 fuel cut relay would likely be marked as successor to the RC15 part. So, I want to replace the RC15 relay with the RC24/RC36 relay, but I need the pin assignment.

I got a Wilbers rear shock in my RC15 - great stuff! If you order from them, you tell them your weight with gear, the weight of your passenger (with gear), how often you ride with your passenger, how often you ride with luggage, what roads you ride normally, .... Then, they will manufacture this rear shock to your specification without additional cost, .... but it will take some time - usually 2 weeks, ....