schwarzc

Sounds neat, maybe I will try that. Thanks 🙂

Thanks a lot! 🙂 I plan on making an "emergency fuel cut relay override switch" anyway while I am tinkering with the wiring, .... so I can choose to override the relay at all time. Or I probably make just a 3 pin connector, with the blue/black and black wires connected, that I can swap for the relay. And yes, I dont like running the bowls dry either, but I dont have much choice at the moment (VF is to precious for me to ride daily, and the garage is a few km away from my flat) - however, that might change in the future, ....but I dont like having the bowls full, either, since this clogs the jets and was the reason for the second carb rebuild, .... Thanks again 🙂

@Gebruiker: Thanks for the picture, but this I know already. I need a photo of the real conntector since the wiring diagram does not represent the actual situation in the connector (red/yellow is not in the center) @RC36B and @squirrelbrains I rebuilt the carbs three times, and always had this issue. When I compared the carbs of the RC15 to the carbs of my other bikes (ST1100, FZX), I found a little detail: The FZX and ST1100 had features on the float bowls, that prevent the float bowls from opening too much. I recon, that this was done to prevent exactly this issue. (Bike is standing long, bowls run dry, needles get stuck, fuel overflows) And while I think, that a shortwired fuel cut relay might work on bikes with exactly these features (probably all bikes but an RC15), a shortwired fuel cut relay will probably cause trouble on a RC15. Because there, the bike needs the vibration of the engine to unstuck the float needles before/while the carb is filling. And as soon as I service the carbs a fourth time, I will also invent some sort of end stop for the floats. Until then, I would like to have the fuel cut relay working, to eliminate further uncertainties, .... Edit: another indicator, that the carb is fine: As long as the float bowls are (semi) filled, there are zero issues with overflow. This does only occur, when the float bowls are empty. And even then, the float needles unstuck themselfes after sitting for 1 or 2 days, ....

Hello! I have a very special question - can anybody with an RC 24 or RC36 tell me, which colour is assigned to which pin on the fuel cut relay plug? I know, that the wires are black, red/orange, and blue/black. And actually I know, the place of the red/yellow wire, but the photo I have does not show the difference between black and black/blue enough - so I probably only need to know, which colour is the center wire, .... Background:, The fuel cut relay on my VF (RC15) is broken, and I shortwired it. So, when I switch on the ignition, the fuel pump starts working. However, if the bike is standing a few months, the floats get stuck, the carbs overflow and I have to follow a certain procedure to be able to start it (switch on ignition, wait until the carbs overflow, wait 2 days, start the bike)). Plus I am suspecting, that some fuel starts leaking into the oil, as it starts overflowing the carbs. So, I want to have the fuel cut relay. Now, the fuel cut relay for the RC 15 is VERY expensive and hard to find, as there are no aftermarket parts available. However, the parts for the RC24/RC36 are much cheaper and more common. After looking at the wiring diagrams of the RC15 and the RC24/RC36, I discovered, that the fuel cut relay have exactly the same working princible, and after checking a few parts diagrams, I discovered, that some early VFRs used the RC15 fuel cut relay with the RC24/RC36 fuel pumps. So, I deduct, that the RC15 and RC25/36 relays should be interchangeable, but the pin assignment would likely be different. If it was not different, the RC24/RC36 fuel cut relay would likely be marked as successor to the RC15 part. So, I want to replace the RC15 relay with the RC24/RC36 relay, but I need the pin assignment.

Connect black and white, isolate the blue wire. The fuel pump (fast ticking noise) should work, when you turn the ignition on. If the ticking noise stops, after some time (~20 sec), everything is good. If it continues, your carb needle valves are stuck in open, and fuel will come from the carbs.

Extra O-Ring and new pushrod seems to cure the problem - no leaks until now, ....

I tried the Teflon shrink wrap, but it failed. I run a house brand 10-40 of a local motorcycle accessories shop - no problems with this oil in other bikes, ... Now I applied an extra O-Ring inside the Seal (where the spring goes, to increase the pretension, the seal has to the push rod) and ordered a new push rod. As soon, as I tested this combination, I will let you know about the results

Yes, it is the push rod seal for sure. The seal has been installed with the help of a bit in the right size and is in the correct position. Between seal and gearbox cover, I used the blue "Hylomar" sealant. The only way, oil can leak is from the push rod. Yes, I know, I can switch the push rod, and I already did. No change. In the meantime, I ordered a new push rod (gotta rule everything out before doing into major modifications), and I still have to try the PFTE shrink wrap mod, .... To my luck, I dont have to split the cases to remove the the gearbox cover, however I will browse trough your history to find the information. Thanks!

Hello! Short description: I have a 83 VF750F, and i cant get the clutch push rod seal to seal properly. I changed the seal itself 3 times (2 times aftermarket, 1 time an original Honda part), and it is still leaking oil. Not much, but still annoyingly enough to see sometimes a little bit of smoke from the collector at the stoplight. (where the oil drips onto and vaporizes there) The push rod has been cleaned and the surface is good. Its diameter is 7.95mm. The oil leak does only occur when riding. AFAIK, the problem is a small radial movement of the push rod when driving, where it pushes the seal lip around. I found "Teflon shrink wrap" as solution that worked for one guy, but not for another - so I will try it, but i dont trust it. Does anybody know this problem or do you know a permanent solution besides the Teflon shrink wrap?

I got the BT45s on mine - great tires, ....

Hey! Thanks for the feedback, that is the information, i needed :) I am in contact with the "metal gear" company - they can modify the brake discs, so i can put them on the comstar wheels. I also found comcast rims on ebay, but the seller wants 150 USD shipping, ... phew. Now i have to decide, what to do, ... Does any of you know the reason, why the US got comcast, and Europe got Comstar? - I am just curious, ... @cornercarver: If i will swap, I will keep my comstar rims (we have very strict laws for modification here - i need the wheels if police sends the motorcycle to federal technical inspection) but I can search for comstar wheels here (plenty of rims around on ebay), and send them to you :) (but keep in mind, this i a winter project, If i do the swap, it will have be around November/December)

Hello! I have a 83 VF750F and it hast comstar rims (gold aluminium rim, multi piece, all fitted together with rivets) And I have a problem: I dont get any decent brake discs anymore. There are some used ones around on ebay (where you never know, what you get), and no aftermarket discs except from a small german company called "metal gear". Long story short: these brake discs must be modified to fit the comstar wheel (riveted to the little central "adapter"). And as I dont like fiddling around with brake discs, i searched for alternatives, and came across the "comcast" wheels for the VF750F. (cast aluminium, black "spokes", polished silver outer rim) These rims look like they can take the disc directly without adapter (which, in therms from honda development team would make totally sense, .... ) Does any of you know, if this is true? Do you know any other differences between these wheels? (distance of brake discs, axle, speedo drive, tire dimensions, and so on, ... ) and does any of you know, why the RC15 has 2 sets of different factory wheels? Has any of you already done a wheel swap from comstar to comcast of vice versa? Thank you in advance for the answers! All the best greetings from Austria

Hello :) The pics, you took at "Dopplerhütte" on the "Exelbergstrasse" I live and grew up in Vienna. ;) Welcome to the forums, and the city

I "restored" my VF (actually, its an ongoing restoration, that will last until I die, ... ) , ... it was mostly a technical restoration, all the fairings and panels remained in original color and condition (altough some parts were powder coated). Technically, I did everything (brakes, fork, electronics, shock absorber, carbs ... ) except opening the engine completely (but I did the cams at some point in time ....) If you want me, drop me aline at schwarzc@gmx.at Location: Austria

The cam must be for a VF (chain driven, 1 cam lobe for 2 valves) The Head is also for a VF (2 valves are operated by 1 rocker arm) Edit: No extra ponies when you swap a RC24 engine in an RC15 Frame, but highly increased reliability of the engine. I´d like to do this mod, myself, too, but I didnt find any reliable references if ist possible, and how it is possible.