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8 hours ago, RC36 said:

It's the usual thing. Tonnes of internet experts in something they've never tried, let alone owned for any length of time.

 

We're talking about a bit of metal with a pivot. It's hardly rocket science.

 

 

No, it's not just that, but hey, put cheap Chinese parts on your bike and roll the dice. I don't roll the dice with safety. 

I absolutely laugh when people put their head in the sand and act like it can't happen to them.

There have been enough horror stories (google "Chinese Levers Crash" and find out for yourself..) for me to determine that cheaping out on an item that interfaces the 200lb gorrila (me) with the brakes, is probably a stupid idea.

Quote

K&N has discovered that in certain KN-204 oil filters manufactured between March 1, 2016 and September 30, 2016, oil can leak at the area where a nut (intended for use to remove the oil filter during routine oil changes) was welded to the bottom of the filter canister. If there is such a leak, oil could come into contact with the rear tire or rear brake of the motorcycle on which the filter was installed. If this were to occur, it could lead to a loss of control or a crash. Therefore, K&N is offering to replace the affected oil filters at no charge. This offer of a free replacement also applies to those covered KN-204 oil filters that were purchased for use in an application other than a motorcycle, such as an ATV or PWC (personal watercraft).

https://www.knfilters.com/mobile/recallkn204

You can actually use just water, and save yourself the sticky residue. Next time, try it before the cola method and see if it's as good.

ADR #1: A Staintune exhaust is required to be fitted at all times while the bike resides in AU ;)

Apologies, haha.

I personally think it has to due with the placement of the filter between the front header pipes, combined with K&N offshoring production and the quality dropping. Higher heat than most bikes + lower quality product = higher failure rate.

23 minutes ago, Soupinmycoupe said:

I've been using OEM or K&N filters on ALL my bikes. Over 100k miles collectively. Rotella T6 on ALL my wet clutch bikes. And the TDi's. :)

I would avoid K&N, even though you've had good luck. Too many failures! Heck, one failed on a 6th gen here locally a week or so ago. 

I personally use OEM or Bosch 3300s

4 hours ago, JZH said:

 

I think you mean "surface charge"?  Anyway, I misunderstood Rick's message: if he tested the battery immediately after charging it overnight and disconnecting the charger, then the voltage reading would be unreliable.  A load tester is not absolutely necessary, but you do need to remove the surface charge before testing (by leaving the battery disconnected for several hours and turning on the headlights for a couple of minutes).  Then, a reading of 12.8v would indicate a good battery!

 

Ciao,

The battery could sit for a few days, still indicate 12.8, and fail a load test. That is why voltage can not be solely used to determine battery health.

29 minutes ago, Rick1 said:

That's what I was thinking as well...  I'll double check with my voltmeter.  Read online that I can check by starting and revving the engine, seeing where the voltage is at. 

Any opinions on that method?

Rick,

You should go through the stator tests 1 by 1, as well as the rectifier tests 1 by 1. Yes, you can watch your basic DC voltage when you rev. Stock regulator will cap out at 13.9v or so. That doesn't test the individual components so you can't be sure you're 100%. One of the legs of your stator can be out and it will still probably near 14v if your regulator is working right.

If you don't know how to use a certain function of the multimeter, look it up on the Googles or ask us.

There is no substitute from individually testing the components.

57 minutes ago, JZH said:

At 12.8v overnight it's absolutely fine! 

 

Ciao,

That's float voltage, but if it can't handle load, the battery is toast. Float voltage is not a great indication of battery health. The store should have put a load test on it, which it sounds like it failed.

10 hours ago, Rick1 said:

I tested my stator this morning, per instructions found elsewhere.

 

Battery checked at 12.8, after full charge off the bike and left hooked up to the bike overnight.

Ohms reading is -00.0 across all terminals.  

I have not found anything online about that reading...  Am I doing something wrong or does this mean the stator is toast?  Bike is 2000 VFR with less than 17k miles.

 

Thanks for any input.

 

Edit...  Just realized this is a 2013 thread.  :P

You test VAC between the 3 legs. You want to see 20vac at idle and 50vac+ at 5k rpm across all 3 (A to B, B to C, A to C)

6 minutes ago, Forbes said:

So seen that in future there may be a donation button, but how do I make one now?
Appreciate the site and members....
Craig

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk
 

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/donate/make-donation/

Hi thtanner,

Thank you for your donation of $25.00. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

Just swapped the wife's clutch @ 75k; the friction plates were crumbling a bit to the touch, so I would imagine it needed doing at 65k or so. Maybe it was ridden hard, but it's 110% better after the swap. This guide really helped ease me through the job (thanks!)

I also had a rewound do the same thing. It failed on the same legs as before. I checked all of the wiring all over the bike, to no avail. I gave up and ordered an OEM from the local stealership at a negotiated price and was up in 48h.