keef

The TL rad worked so well I was thinking about ditching the oil cooler. It always ran around 85-90 Celsius.

I had one fan on it and wired up. At 80kph and faster, the fan would spin by itself since it got so much air flowing through the rad. All I needed to do was swap input from left side to right side,no other mods to the rad.

Since I bought a cheap ($110aus) china rad it sprung a random leak. I have a custom made one ready to go on, much narrower (350mm wide) but 42mm thick, no fan. The TL rad looked really wide without a fairing, but on a track bike it'll be under the fairing anyway. i dont think its any wider than the original side mount rads.

Luigi, here is a link to my thread, because it's easier than posting pictures.

I started it years ago, and keep doing bits and pieces. But it shows the TLR rad mounted up.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/76261-vfr8-streetfighter/#entry916303

Stoltec whonow?

Just kidding, I read through some of your posts and decided to try and hunt down an R1/6 mc instead of the 3/4 one I had. Aus dollar to US isn't so good right now, so looking for a second hand one instead of new.

When my 5th was standard, I though the brakes were okay, but terrifying in the wet. They needed a good handful to be decent.

But if you use the rear at the same time to activate the extra piston on the front brakes, much better. I can't imagine the 5th and 6th brakes are that different.

There is a big difference to the MT brakes though.

Give it a go, and if it's rubbish, sell it to me.

Odd, for some reason, I didn't get notification of replied to the thread. Interesting.

Anyway, thanks for the feedback. It was a long, long, long winter so I honestly cannot say if the brakes are the better, worse, or the same as compared to fully stock. At this point, I can only guess. I don't ever remember being 'blown away' with the stock setup, though. That said, I'm still not happy with the current setup. Hearing the comments here, I'm going to try for another bleed (though in fairness, the front's bleed very easily, which is the bulk of what I feel) and will check the pistons.

Lever travel? There is a good bit of travel before anything meaningful happens, but it's reasonably firm once I get to that point. Feels like shit in comparison to my FZ-09 w/ R6 master cylinder or CBR600RR w/ Brembo RC19, however.

I suppose I could try swapping back to the stock pads. These pads do like a bit of heat to get going, but the difference isn't tremendous between hot and cold.

No idea about the Vfr brake problem (mines got a gsxr front end with radials) but if you decide to get rid of the spare R6master, let me know- I also have an MT 09, and looking to upgrade it.

Luigi,

i have used the top radiator from a suzuki TL1000R with an oil cooler from a honda SP1. It worked very well.

I had to move the inlet on the radiator from Left side to right side, but very easy.

As it was a "made in China" copy, it started leaking after a year - it also looked a bit wide on my streetfighter with no bodywork.

I have a custom made narrower radiator to mount, that has a 42mm core instead of standard 16mm core.

I love fighters, and this is absolutely beautiful.

And don't forget

http://www.flat-out.com/

i just listened to the vid. That noise is why i wanted a vfr. I'm going to the garage tonight.

Can someone post avid from Tmac so i can here a heap of vfr's together?

The TL1000R front mount rad that I was using was far more efficient than the twin side mounts the bike came with.

I've got a custom made rad from race rads in Dandenong Victoria in the garage ready to replace it.

front mount radiator. it works better than side mounts, so the oil cooler has less work to do.

Every streetfighter needs knuckles, Austin.

If you lane split, the hand guards are essential, nothing worse than misjudging a mirror and clipping it with your brake lever. If you have a radial MC, you will need ones that give more clearance for the lever- look for ones for supermotos.

I'm using a 4 row off an RC51 down low behind the headers. The TLR rad works so well i'm thinking about deleting the cooler.

If you decide to get a bigger oil cooler, get a generic one with standard fittings - easier than bending the vfr hard lines.

I'm using 05 gsxr 600 forks and yokes with a ducati 848 front wheel. I have too much trail at the moment, and fork springs that are too soft, so the front end pushes a little under brakes going downhill- uphill or flat, no probs.

Once I get stiffer fork springs, I will raise the forks a little in the yokes to shorten the trail. I need the forks stiffer to maintain clearance for the front mount rad.

Or I could raise the back end a little, same effect.

Confusing, ain't it?

Use a front mount rad.

The TLR 1000 rad I'm using on my 5th gen works a treat. Still using the original Vfr fan switch, and it's all good.

I crashed pretty bad back in 2009, 5 weeks before my wedding. Compound fracture of my femur, and also broke tib and fib. My foot was up near my hip somewhere. Sliding into the guard rail was better than sliding off the edge, though.

I remember the road was smooth then bumpy, then i was on the side of the road wondering who took my gloves off, apparently it was me. I managed to take off my belt and wrap it around my leg as a tourniquet, wasn't sure if my femur had torn the artery on its way out or not.

Choppered to hospital (my mates i was riding with almost beat the chopper), 3 weeks in hospital, a lot of conversations with my then fiancee about me still riding, and then married on crutches.

A month out of hospital and i was back on my other bike (gsxr 600 srad) doing laps around the carpark in my apartment block, I just wanted to get back on the horse, so to speak.

I had 2 minor crashes since then ( in the first 6 months after the crash) when i panicked for one reason or another, and then picked the bike up and continued on my merry way; low speed stupid stuff.

I knew i was panicking because of the accident, so i did a california superbike school which helped a lot, it also got me positioning my body better, especially my leg. After it's rebuild my foot isn't quite straight, and it's not a flexible as it was. I've done a few track days on the vfr as well to get used to it - the bike i totaled i had owned for 10 years, a gsxr 711, 185kgs wet weight and 130hp at the wheel. Lovely for a 20 year old bike.

It takes time to get the confidence back, but if you work at it, it'll come.

No worries, Mohawk. I've downloaded the manual to my dropbox, so I can look at it on my ipad in the garage.

When a noticed a small leak, I wiggled the hose which made it a big leak. I then tightened the clamp as much as i could, and still managed to pull the hose off with my hand. That's when i figured i should measure the stub, instead of just assuming it was 25mm like the rest of them. Heat shrink is a great idea, i tried silicone rescue tape, but no go, so i just put the original rubber one back on.

I filled the bike with coolant last night, no leaks this morning, so ill start her up when i get home from work, annoy the neighbors with a v4 rumble, and see if it leaks under pressure.

I find it interesting that you feel the need to get a condescending jibe in before you help a new guy answer a question. That said, I reckon I've got enough of an idea to have a go, Mohawk, and asking questions is how you learn more. If it's not the thermostat, what is it?

It does have an overflow tube from the rad, coolant expands, it overflows into the expansion bottle, and is siphoned back up as it cools.

Proper technical terms may escape me, but I'm not a complete goose. I've changed the plastic expansion bottle as well. Its in pretty much the same position, but much better looking.

Yep, doing a streetfighter. I started a thread on it a couple of days ago. The new rad sits higher than the OEM oil cooler did, well above the little cutout in the cylinder, the tire should hit the motor before it hits the rad. I have taken for a quick spin up and down my fairly long driveway, and noticed a few leaks, the worst one was from the pipe around the generator cover. I saw one of your threads about the silicone hoses, didn't notice the update about not being able to get the reiforced hose to clamp properly. I switched it back to the standard one last night, when I've got the time to wait for postage from the uk, I'll get 45 degree hoses like you did.

The oil cooler has been changed to an sp1, and now sits down low a bit behind the headers.

All good, i drilled and tapped into the bottom of the in line adapter, so air will be able to make its way out through the rad cap or overflow/expansion can.

Just above what I think is the thermostat housing, I think it's the highest point in the cooling system. I guess air works it's way up to the thermostat, gets forced through the air bleed hose, then into the right rad, at which point it floats up to the rad cap and comes out there when you burp the system, or out the overflow pipe later on if the cap is closed.

Drilling and tapping another nipple is another possible leak, but if the hose always has fluid running through it, if I block it off, it could stop the whole thing from working properly.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/monthly_10_2013/post-28591-0-08224700-1382328061.jpg

Hi all,

I'm new here, but have had my VFR for a while. I am almost finished my front mount rad conversion using a TL1000R top rad. It's mounted using the mount points for the standard oil cooler, which i relocated lower down inside the headers, and upgraded to an sp1 cooler while i was at it.

My question is, do i need to plumb in the air bleed hose?

The original right hand rad has a nipple for the bleed hose to connect to as well as a nipple for the overflow. the TLR rad only has a nipple for the overflow. Do i need to plumb in the air bled hose (i can drill and tap another nipple) or can i just plug it after i have bled the system?