KanadianKen

Enzed - so if I take the micro switch right off - then solder in one side of the push button to the top left, and the other to the bottom left - when the push button is closed, it completes the circuit and the transmitter sends the signal? If so- I can handle figuring out the leads into and out of the relay. thanks.

It should do (test it with the battery in to make sure), but you don't have to unsolder the switch. It'll work just fine with it left in. If you want it out (to save accidental pressing, for example?) then just put a small screwdriver or something under the switch, and pry it gently while you heat the terminals on one side then the other.

I left my switch on because (a) it's under the front fairing where there's no danger of accidental operation, and (B) I can revert to using it as a normal remote should I need to - just snip the wires off.

Gaaaa!! All this talk has got me wanting to farkle again. I'm thinking of having a go at wiring it through the headlight flasher, and powering it from the bike's battery rather than an internal one.

By the way - this isn't my idea, so I can't take credit for it. I copied someone else's initial idea, but just did it slightly differently.

Thanks for the comments - I'll be giving this a go in the coming weeks. Great idea Chris#### !

It has a micro switch that is soldered with four pins. Can someone tell me based on these photos - where I have to wire the leads in from the appropriate leads on the relay? I plan to use a standard relay like that used on the Stebel horn mod.

I just shorted mine out (with the battery connected) to see which pair it was. One pair worked, the other didn't. In your pictures, I'm guessing that either the left-hand or right-hand pair in the bottom picture will work, given the way they're effectively the same from an electric point of view. I'd go with the left, as it would be easier.

If you wanted to come through from the other side, you could poke the wires through the holes next to S1, and bend the wires over to those two, or bridge them across.

Enzed - so if I take the micro switch right off - then solder in one side of the push button to the top left, and the other to the bottom left - when the push button is closed, it completes the circuit and the transmitter sends the signal? If so- I can handle figuring out the leads into and out of the relay. thanks.

Ok - so I ripped my spare transmitter apart.

It has a micro switch that is soldered with four pins. Can someone tell me based on these photos - where I have to wire the leads in from the appropriate leads on the relay? I plan to use a standard relay like that used on the Stebel horn mod.

MIcroswitch:

Other side:

THanks!!

No I don't Ken, but if you want one, I can pull it back apart. I'll tell you what it did, It is very straight forward. On my opener, I had 3 buttons, each button has 4 contacts, but this is just for mounting, you can trace the wires on the circut board to tell which two are the actual contacts. The reason there are 4 contacts is so that when you press the button, the swith doesn't bend, if there were only two, it would be like a table with only 2 legs, won't stay up too well. I double checked my self before I cut anything buy just shorting the two legs that I thought were switched contacts. I then "un-soldered" the switch from the board, and inserted the new wires, "re-soldered" and done.

Now, that was confusing, I'll shoot a pic in a bit.

THanks CHris - I think I get it. I have a spare transmitter for my garage - I'll take it apart and have a look see at the internals. Great idea you had.

Cool stuff. Would like to do the same to mine. Got any close up pics of the wiring you did to the transmitter switch? :thumbsup:

OK - here's the photos with fairings on, and it's all buttoned up. Great fit - spacing off the fairing is very good. Looks great!!

THe last two pics are a bit blurry - I guess the auto focus didn't know where I wanted it to look... the gap is likely about 5/32" maybe a touch smaller - off the plastic.

Sorry for the "boring" pics for those that aren't interested. However - I think that there is enough interest to benefit those other snowbound folks to help the grey matter keep thinking up ways of tweaking their ride before the snow thaws...... :thumbsup:

Didn't somebody on here once post that they used black door edge moulding to hide the cut edge, putting the joining seam at the bottom of the hole, so as to hide it?

Wow, I almost passed out, that was such a long sentence..... I gotta go lie down :o :wacko: :goofy:

that trim shouldn't be required - the holes are clean, and you won't be able to see them... I'll snap some photos shortly.

When you look at these two photos - you will see two recesses. One is the seat face of the frame, and then there is a raised "shoulder". The original slider bases that Radar made didn't accommodate for both - as the 5th Gen that he has didn't have the two surfaces. We took some measurements and then Darren sent me an anodized Black set that he tweaked to fit these recesses - and they fit spot on. Perfect fit on both mating surfaces - stronger connection to the frame. These slider sets are unreal quality pieces that I hope I never get to test.

Here's the revised slider base in anodized Black.

I'll install them completely with my fairings this afternoon to show the overall fit and finish. I might even clean up the hole saw holes before snapping the pics to reduce the stomach turning effect that holes in fairings cause to some here.... :rolleyes:

VeeferMadness - I'll do your install with you - its a piece of cake.Even for a monkeys ass like me, we take our time, get teh Sleemans chilling, and get at it.

I may have worked out an easy fix for the coolant bottle that is a little different than the corner notched out. I hope to finish minethis weekend, i'll post up my suggestion if it works.

ANy other members in the SOuthern Ontario area that want this done on either a 5th or 6th gen - and a 4th gen if its turn key - let me know. Happy to help.

Great job on the rewire. thats on my list of things to do. I don't have near the electric consumption you do, but I 'd like the wires to be layed out much better under the seat.

I hope to add heated grips, and a powerlet of sorts at some point. Might as well plan for more than I need. Nice work.

This might work for the 3rd Gens as well? BMV - lets cut some holes in that fairing!!!!

After the wreck last July, I definately want a set. Looks to be much more precise than the R&G set I was thinking about. Topic will be tracked!!!

Ken....One helluva write up, not so detailed that it seems dumbed down too far but a solid basis for someone to refer to. Thanks.

Radar... I want one, PM me or I will you.....Sometime!!

Hawglet - thank you - I'm glad you were able to follow my install - I tried as best I could to keep it flowing and understandable. I'm sure that others could smooth this out even better - but I enjoyed it. Get in touch with Darren at : radar88ster AT gmail.com

Ken, am I correct to think yo do not have to drill through the coolant tank?

THe coolant tank has to be altered, I just didn't get that part done yet. If you go to the R &G website - they show what the coolant bottle looks like after its altered.

Heres how it'll look once altered.

Ladies and Gentlemen

If your wanting to install sliders like radar/ken but are afraid to cut fairings ( like me) trust me when i say if Ken can do it anyone can :thumbsup: :goofy:

Once again nice work on the install, looks like a quality product :thumbsup:

THanks Dude - with friends like you, who needs enemies? And for the record I'm not as big of an asshat mechanic as my good friends would have you believe, however I do still need a lot of help figuring out all this two wheel mecanix stuff....

For my next trick, I will coerce Dude and MCrew to "Assist" me in changing my sprockets and chain!!! :thumbsup:

Wow ken now thats an extreme way to make sure you drill the whole straight. Looks good though I like the idea. Would have never thought about doing it that way. :thumbsup:

All credit goes to Radar. Its his ideas. I just followed through with the plan. :thumbsup:

Heres a couple closeups of the slider base mount - on the frame - Seb had asked for a better shot. I mentioned in the write up that the shoulder on teh engine bolt had to be turned down - the base has to be able to mount tight and flush to the frame for strength. YOu can see that the slider base is flush and fits perfect.

By the by - I went to the R&G site to snoop around. I watched a demo of the install for those sliders and it seems like there is WAY TOO MUCH room for error using a dremel tool to get the holes "just right". After doing this install with specific tools, and drill bits and hole saw - there is no way I'd even think about using a dremel on a fairing - no chance!!! THis method is precise, measureable, and consistent. Way to go Radar!!!

Hey - if you guys want to talk about a set of sliders that is on Lady White Lightings bike, please start a new thread - I'm just trying to help out a guy with a great product idea, and share this super easy install method.

Those Sliders on Lady White Lightnings bike look like they'll be a great sturdy point to balance the back half of the bike onto the front turn signal :joystick: . Sorry - they look like they are in the worst possible location for a crash impact - also - wouldn't the knees be hitting them? Now go talk about other sliders elsewhere. This thread is reserved for the good stuff!!! :warranty:

For what its worth - if there are any GTA / SOuthern Ontario or other folks close enough that want me to do this install for you, I'd be pleased to help you out. Get your bike to my place, and an hour later you're bike will be done. We'll likely still be shooting the shit, but it doesn't take too long. :thumbsup:

Radar can be reached on this site, and I know that he'll post up Sunday night or Monday as to how to get a set of these from him.

He does top notch metal work, and I believe he is a gunsmith by trade so his precision must be very good.

He's in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, and he contacted me to try this out on my 6th gen - to see how it would work and to do a write up on it for the install portion.

You've most definately found a great way to drill at a very precise spot. I command you for that. Having said that, I would go the Lady White Lightning way before I do that. I really don't like the edge around the wholes.

What is the "lady white lightning" ?

I haven't touched the holes to clean them up at all. THe holes are very clean, my damn camera takes really good closeups and it exaggerates the finish. THe holes are perfect, and the plastic "Strings" will easily come off.

:beer:

Nice job! Looks like they're in a good place to protect the rads and engine covers. Any pics of the slider base where it faces the engine bolt? Just curious.

And a suggestion for Radar, if you wish to make more of these as a kit, I would buy extra engine bolts and tap them, then include them and their price in the kit. It makes it more appealing to people that way, as all they'd have to do is spend $$, without having to track down a machine shop and then wait for them to do the job.

And one more, maybe offer the "centering plugs" with a deposit, so buyers could return them, and you wouldn't have to make so many?

All that said, I might buy a set, if you're making them...

Good points Seb, Darren and I talked about the engine bolts as well. I think that would be the way to go. As for the centering plugs - I think he plans to include a pair with each set of sliders.

I'll try to get a couple of up close pics of the base where it attaches to the engine bolt.

I know that Darren has a couple extra sets turned of the bases, and he was about to turn the plastic. He's away for the weekend but I'm sure he'll chime in next week.

:thumbsup:

Drilling for Sliders

Radars Sliders and Installation

And how to drill your fairings without having a nervous breakdown.

For product availability EMAIL RADAR AT : radar88ster AT gmail.com

I was the test for Radars awesome sliders, and finally I got fed up with the cold and snow, and went into the garage for about an hour today. The results below are very good, and I think Radar (Darren) has hit a home run with the products he makes. Read on.. Its long and photo heavy - but I hope it explains how this was done, and the simple tools that were needed.

1) You will need to acquire the “Basic” goods from Radar (Darren in Saskatoon, Sk., Canada). Get yourself the slider mounts, the bolts, and the sliders themselves.

The trick to this installation is based on two very simple – yet custom turned centering plugs. These plugs fit snugly into the holes where the front engine bolt goes through. Darren turned these, and sends them with an o-ring installed to snug up the fit.

2) From your local hardware store, you need to pick up a few things. You will need an 18” long ¼” inch drill bit, a 1 1/8” hole saw, an arbor to hold the hole saw, as well as a length of ¼” “drill rod”.

3) Ok – first things first. This would be a very easy install with an extra set of hands and eyes helping out, I flew solo on this cold winter day – but it all worked out perfectly. Strip off the side fairings, and remove the coolant bottle. On the bottom of the coolant bottle is the spout that the hose attaches to – cap that with a rubber cap so it doesn’t leak out all over the floor. Put the coolant bottle out of the way for now. Back to this later.

4) Next – remove the front engine bolt. This bolt passes from the left side of the frame, through a “floating” spacer/big ass washer, through the engine, and exits through the frame on the right side. You will need to take this bolt (which on 6th Gen’s is hollow) and get the inside tapped on both ends about an inch deep to fit the bolts that Darren sends. (I’ll edit this after I get the exact specs back from Darren). This is ultimately where the Slider bases mount to the bike – by far the strongest location on the bike. Here’s the bolt – after it is tapped.

5) Insert the Centering plugs into the holes from the engine bolt. The following picture has the drill bit going through the centering plug, but you get the idea. Spray some aerosol lubricant into the center of the centering plug – it’ll make the drilling go easier.

6) Now reinstall the right side fairing, and put the Honda securing bolts back in and tighten them up. You need the right side fairing to be held securely, as the first hole that is drilled, originates from the left side, and uses the 18” long ¼” drill bit. The drill bit is slid in through the centering plug on the left side, through the floating spacer/big ass washer – and then carefully through the right side centering plug. Hook up the bit to the drill, and take a deep breath. Get the drill going about half speed, and gently start to push it into the fairing. You may feel the drill “skip” depending on where it’s touching the inside of the fairing. Have your helper gently press against the fairing – in the direction of the drill bit. The drill will pop though, and you should have a clean ¼” inch hole like this.

7) Now – retract the 18” long drill bit, and get the 1 1/8” hole saw, and the length of drill rod. I had to buy 36 inches of drill rod – so I left it that length. You could cut it down to 18” and be just fine. Install the drill rod onto the arbor for the hole saw. The arbor I used already had a ¼” centre drill bit in it, so I removed the drill bit and installed the drill rod. It is simply used to keep the hole saw cutting in a perfect circle – as it is guided by the centering plugs on both ends.

8) From the RIGHT side of the bike, insert the drill rod through the already drilled ¼” hole, and get it through the engine, and out to the other side of the other centering plug.

Here’s what it looks like on the other side with the drill rod slipped through.

Again – get the drill spinning about half speed – and with easy pressure – cut the hole in the side of the fairing. The centering plugs will keep the hole saw from skipping or jumping. It only takes a few seconds, and you’re through. One down, one to go!!

9) Now take off the right side fairing. You can take some fine sandpaper to the hole on the right fairing and gently clean up any plastic “strings” that didn’t come off clean. (Leave it off for now – engine bolt has to be re-installed.)

10) Before you re-install the left side fairing, prop something under the spacer (I used a pair of pliers).

11) From the RIGHT side of the bike, you slip the 18” long ¼” drill bit through the centering plug, through the engine and out through the left centering plug on the left side of the bike. Once the drill bit is just through the left side centering plug, re-install the left side fairing. This just makes it easier to guide the drill bit through all the holes, before it gets down to business.

From here – you are going to repeat the same steps as you took to do the right side drilling. Create the pilot ¼” hole on the left side, then using that pilot hole – use the drill rod installed on the hole saw arbor, and make the second 1 1/8” hole. At the end of the drilling you will have two holes in the perfect locations for the sliders to be installed.

After the left side holes are made, take off the left side fairing. I’ll skip ahead and show you the steps to install the slider bases, and the sliders themselves.

Using the magic of time lapse – you have by now had your engine bolt tapped on both ends to accept the thread size of the bolts that come with Darren’s kit. (Again – I will edit this after I confirm with Darren what the exact thread size is – I believe the finished kits have 5/16” Coarse thread bolts.) The machine shop that did the tapping for you, will also have to turn down the shoulder on one end of the engine bolt mounting nuts. I apologize – I will have to edit this also – after I get the correct size from Darren. This allows the slider base to slip over the tightened engine bolt without clearance issues.

12) Re-install the engine bolt.

13) Reinstall both left and right side fairings.

14) The threaded end of the slider base stays on the outside of the bike.

Slip the bolt into the slider mounting base from the threaded end – and it screws into the newly tapped and reinstalled engine bolt with a light amount of blue loctite. I’m unsure as to the torque value to apply – I will edit with correct values.

Then – apply some blue loctite to the slider mounting base threads, and screw on the slider itself.

Do the same on both sides, and enjoy your finished project!!!

RADAR will be providing details of his kit, and it fits both 5th and 6th Gen VFR’s.

The coolant bottle needs to be cut and resealed - I haven't done that yet - but I will add that portion to this as soon as I'm done.

SO - how much of the "Brown" in the original post - was oil?

Stator Re-wound by Ricks Motorsport Electric. A+++++ Quality

Stator Re-wound by Ricks Motorsport Electric. A+++++ Quality

There is the rewind job. Looks great!! Stay tuned for a result post.

Looks like a damn fine job! :thumbsup:

Trace - the man with a strippers pole in his garage gutted a 5th gen cat..... pretty nice job as well! :thumbsup:

See!! The vtecs are better!! :lol:

Please don't take that seriously, anyone, I have no intentions of going there... ! :deer:

Thanks for the review Ken! Once I figure out if my triples are/aren't tweaked, I'll be doing this install! Now go wash your bike! :goofy: Shame on you for putting her away like that. :P

the bugs, and dragonfly's help keep her warm in the garage - no way I'm cleaning that stuff!! Bike is made to ride, not be a pretty garage queen.

Lemme know if you need any other pictures. ANy excuse to take her out is good for me!! :beer: