crakerjac

Why not leave the reed valves in place and just put the block off plates over the gasket?

The way I look at it is this: I've put 15k miles on my bike with this being a problem. I've toured across the country and even did a track day on the bike. The notice about the recall doesn't make the failure more likely to happen, so I'm going to keep riding it (or not with the snow on the ground) until I get it fixed... I'm going to let a few others be the Guinna Pig because the new parts don't necessarily equate to 'better' (ergo less driveshaft lash).

So I'm reading through the service bulletin and I'm trying to figure out exactly what they are replacing. As they disassemble the rear end, they are replacing the caliper bolts, ring set and circlip on propeller shaft assembly. The dealer is also supposed to apply some moly grease when they re-assemble, but I'm not seeing any big parts they are replacing... they all seem like stuff you would replace anyways when doing a tare down.

I have a set of torque wrenches... but as I'm putting stuff back together, I always have to turn it just a little more... then a little bit more for good measure. My dad is the same way and I will probably pass on that same nasty trait to my son (circle of life and all).

So there is no chance of getting a 'free' differential fluid change out of it. I understand it's easy and straight forward... I'm just a chronic over-tightener and don't want to sheer off the bolt.

Is a shaft drive fluid change part of the work order? I know the fluid change is easy, but if it's one less thing I have to do come spring then GREAT!

So I guess I'm going to have to find a dealer to get my bike fixed. Last place my dad took his Goldwing to kinked his Radiator return hose when reassembling the bike causing it to overheat...

I just don't trust anyone to work on my bike (and that includes myself at times).

If it's a big enough issue for Honda to do a recall, they must know something we either don't know, or haven't seen (yet). As with all recalls, I ask myself, is the manufacturer addressing the root cause or are they simply replacing the part(s) that are wearing out.

I agree with you swimmer. I don't think it's been a real 'problem' on my 2010. There is a little more slop in the drive train than I would like, but otherwise it fits 80% of my needs (dedicated track bike and wife's cruiser fill that last 20%).

Not seeing my 2010 listed as having a recall either... I wonder if the 'fix' addresses the real problem, or if it's just a band-aid for users to limp along until their next motorcycle purchase.

Awesome post! I was just trying to figure out how to do this.

The only option on the DCT is the Don Guhl re-flash. I cannot comment on the factory warranty as I purchased a leftover 'demo' bike and it had no such warranty.

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I posted my comment on your 'Feedback' page, but I figured I would post here as well.

"I'd like to see the option to export routes to CoPilot. Right now, I can export the route as a .kml file and then use ITN Converter to convert the .kml file to a .trp file."

I use copilot too with my phone and a sena smh10. Do you know of anywhere that explains how to do custom routes for copilot and how

to convert and import them, I love copilot but that is the one thing that would make it perfect. I had no idea you could do that. For instance all the routes on bestbikingroads.com are useless to me since they are gpx files. Thanks

Right now I use ITN Converter. It will pull in Google Maps so you can create whatever route you want (similar to MotoGoLoco's Route Builder). You can then export the route to a CoPilot 8 file (.trp) and save the file to your phone. On my phone (Android) I save the .trp file on my SD card here: com.alk.copilot.namarket.premiumusa\NA\save. Next time you open CoPilot, you should be able to load the route you created.

The ITN Converter is a little clunky to use, but it gets the job done. The Route Builder is pretty slick. I'm going to keep an eye on it and see where it goes.

I posted my comment on your 'Feedback' page, but I figured I would post here as well.

"I'd like to see the option to export routes to CoPilot. Right now, I can export the route as a .kml file and then use ITN Converter to convert the .kml file to a .trp file."

No.

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Back to the 1A vs. the 2.1A phone charging. I'm more familiar with Android, but I assume iProducts follow the same set of rules... Even though we all know Apple tends to ignore the rules and make up their own... but that’s another topic.

Per the USB standard, a USB port can source up to 1A to any peripheral (e.g. iPhone). If your iPhone will charge via USB port on your computer, it WILL charge with a 1A USB port. The kicker here is that the phone will charge VERY SLOW since the phone is charging in USB mode.

The USB wall wart you use to charge your phone has some logic that will place the phone in AC charge mode which draws the most current. The upside to this is that your battery will not drain while running GPS and Bluetooth apps. The downside is that you need to make sure that your charger can source enough current to charge your phone (2.1A is typically more than enough).

I'll leave out all the technical mumbo jumbo about how the USB port tells the phone what mode to charge in (USB vs. AC)... mostly since this is where Apple made up their own rules to make chargers proprietary...

Long story short. 1A will work to charge your phone if the screen is off and you are not using it. 2.1A is a much better choice as your phone can still charge while using the GPS with the screen on and jamming out to music via Bluetooth.

Yup. However they do make a 'less expensive' 1 A version. If you are going to go the USB route, don't get stingy now and go with the 1 A version.

3BR makes some good stuff. I've got the bar mounted USB port on my VFR1200. I didn't take any pictures of the install, but the finished product looks pretty nice. The wires from the USB port run to the accessory harness under the left faring.

Went to install the Bazzaz today... I found the connector (I think) but I cannot seem to get enough slack in the wires to her the connector apart. The connector seems to be tied to something behind the frame. Is there something I'm missing or is it just going to take some bruit force to pull the connection apart? I AM pushing the button to release the connector... Just no dice.

edit: Nevermind... got it.

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The Z-Bomb seems like a nice easy solution to the power restriction in 1st and 2nd gear. I'll look more seriously at it once I'm through the break-in period on my bike and can get on it a bit.

My concern is that Mr. Honda implemented this restriction due to some mechanical weak point and not 'wheelspining power' in low gears. Is there any concern about extra strain/backlash on the drive shaft due to this mod?