Bassie

Your "eliminator" is nothing more then a ~330Ohm resistor, nothing more, you can measure it. Remove it, then measure the 2 pins (normally connected to the white O2-sensor wires) and it should read about 330~1000Ohm. These "eliminators" do nothing more then fool the ECU that an O2-sensor is present, that is it. They do not eliminate anything. Because if you forget them, it will make your FI-light come on and the ECU tells you something is wrong, however that also means you miss any real important problem with your bike. You do not want the FI-light on all the time, telling you the bike has a problem

I have done this mod today and can only say this: WAUW! It's brilliant, not only makes it the pairing mode obsolete but it also makes the bike respond well from about 2500 rpm. I have done some serious digging and you do not need a power-commander or anything to feel the difference. What this mod does is simple, it tell the ECU that your Lambda-sensor is connected, nothing more nothing less. A working sensor does provide a voltage to the ECU to what the ECU responds by using some sort of mapping. Because the mod omits the voltage, the ECU will think the sensor is broken, it knows this after about 3 minutes. You can smell this during starting as the ECU keeps pumping extra fuel that doesn't ignite well, as such the exhaust will smell a lot after petrol. As the ECU notices that the "sensor" doesn't respond to it's regulation it assumes it's broken and starts a special optimized combustion-program that has static parameters. This special program is optimal, and you know it as the power is there and the response is brilliant! It's also this program that the power-commder uses to control the injection. However, you do not need a power-commander, the optimal program is already in the ECU and works as expected. There is instantly a lot of extra power and torque, if you wait 3 minutes after starting. I have done this mod on a VFR800Fi 2000 and a CBR1000RR, and on both machines the results are great. Also, this mod makes the ECU just respond to the throttle and not to the O2/CO2-level anymore, as it thinks the sensor is broken. Yes when you start it smells bad, but it quickly returns to normal with an improved riding experience.

Kind of gives PAIR blocking a whole new meaning. Maybe he shouldn't have disconnected her flapper. Why? The flapper stays in the middle the last time I checked after a few KM's. And as said, she doesn't bang me after the mods, in fact she hardly moves at all during the ride.

Those look bad. But I think I worded my question wrongly, are you using an after market exhaust-pipe or still the stock one? As I'm using a DAM pipe and I was unable to ride at 3~4 rpm without hearing loads of pops and the bike had hickups at 50km/h or less. With both modifications in place it simply runs far better, the hickups where so bad that my wife was banging me with her helmet at those speeds. After making both mods, she's no longer banging me. I do not call that change a sugar pill. However, the stock exhause pipe masks the pairing and flapper a great deal, people only notice it when fitting something else. Mine: As for the LED, that is a great idea, I will connect one to my connector somewhere this week and have a spin with it.

You never answered my question about the exhaust. Nor did you show any pictures of the melting. I know the paring mod works and works good in combination with the flapper-mod. I have done it on several bikes and all bikes improved handling and low RPM riding. Why are you twisting and turning about the pairing being the problem of your melting? Also you never explained why the reed should separate the cylinders. I'm far more curious to know why you insist the pairing-mod should be the problem. Answer those and I will start measuring for you tomorrow. My VFR800Fi (2000) didn't melt, nor did my sons CBR1000RR (2006) and both run better then ever before. So why did yours melt?

The valve reeds don't keep the cylinders insulated, why would they? They are there to block the combusted gases to get back into the airbox. As the exhaust is combined at the cat anyway, why insulate them? Each cylinder has it's own outlet valves and they are closed on turn anyway. Have you noticed this? There is no air-pump to let air flow from the airbox to the reeds. Also the tubes are not made for high temps or pressure. It's my opinion that the combusted air is pushed out by the cylinder, then reach the reed (that closes because of the pressure) it follows it path to the cat. However, because of the combined pipes at the cat, the other pipe to cylinder no2 is getting under-pressure, so it sucks in air from the pairing and that waits there until the outlet-vavle opens to press combusted air out. That mixture goes in the direction of the reed (that closes on it's turn) and follows it's way to the cat. Then reed 1 opens and air is sucked into exhaust 1 etc... I really believe your blocking (either plates or before) was leaking hot combustion air into the pairing-system or passing your reed somehow and made it melt. Maybe the reed on 1 cylinder was never placed properly and melted because of passing gases. So in my opinion the reed malfunctioned somehow even before the blocking, but just 1 side. Maybe mounted wrongly or not sealed enough at the factory. It happens things go wrong, that is what warranty is for when they leave the factory. I do not believe the blocking of the pairing (when done properly) is causing it to melt.

It's my opinion that the reed is only there to prevent the pairing-tube to push exhaust-gases back into the airbox. But because the pairing-blocking there is no function for the reeds anymore. As such I believe it can be removed in total, reeds as well as the plumbing. However, I didn't though about O2 being sucked in because of a leak, I thought of gases being pushed out and overheat the sealing. Either way, it should not leak.

I got it now, sorry was looking at a wrong angle related to your problem. I have done some digging and I think the reason it's melting is because one of your blocking plates is leaking. Because if it is leaking gasses will pass from the exhaust and heat up the aluminum plate, so hot that it could melt the reed. That means your blocking isn't done properly, ergo you have to seal the leak. When there is no leak the plate isn't heating up and the reed shouldn't be heated or do anything at all. In fact, when you mounted the plates, you could have removed the reed in total in my opinion, but I just did the marble trick. The melting isn't caused by the disabling of the pair system, but by a failure (leak) of your attempt to disable the system. That is what I found by reading others that report the same happening and it looks to be the case. As for the effect under power, the paring-system has a major effect under power, but you won't notice with a stock exhaust as it masks it. The riding comfort between 3000~4000rpm completely changed after blocking it.

To help you a bit: http://www.moccsplace.com/images/pair/pair1.htm http://johnny.chadda.se/article/pair-and-flapper-mod-with-bonus-snorkel-mod-for-vfr/ http://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68735 http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/engine/vtx-1800-desmog/ Everybody is saying the system is rubbish and not doing anything but make sure it meets te sniffers demands. Want me to give to a load more pages? The pairing and flapper serve no purpose, none at all. Some do explain it a bit like your believe, but all remove it. If you talk to bike-engineers, they all tell you it's useless crap.

No there are no easier ways to do it, as you have to control the exhaust to to make it run well. But hey, don't believe me, trust your autoshop stuff, I don't care. Or do you believe the flapper has a function too? It's just to pass the noise rules at about 5000 RPM. Heck in Germany Porsche called their 1st gear "Gelände" meaning terrain-gear, just to make sure they where able to pass sound tests in third and not the second gear as everybody else. Do you really believe pairing is good for the environment? I bet you think solar-panels are good too right? It's just a fraud to pass regulations, nothing else. But hey, everybody is free to believe what they want. If you think it's a good system, well why do you block it??? BTW carburator cars have cats for years and years, they never needed pairing. Yet currently the injection engines need it, while their combustion is far better then ever before. It's fraud.

The pairing system on a VFR (and other Injection bikes) consist only of 3 tubes and a valve. The only thing is does is put clean air in the exhaust at low RPM to fool the sniffers. It's no more complicated then this: It can simply be removed in total and blocked at 3 points, 2x at the exhaust where you put the blocking plates. And 1x at the airbox before it goes to the pairing-valve. As for leaking a bit near the exhaust, that could happen, as it gets hot there, it's the exhaust. However I would close it, use some closing material to seal it else the O2 sensor still (may) think the mixture isn't right. The pairing system isn't useful, it's just a major fraud to pass the CO2-maffia rules, nothing more. As you can't optimize a bike that has optimal burning of fuels, that generates CO2 as optimal combustion is maximal CO2 (it's a bit more complicated but still). However the CO2-maffia turned CO2 into a bad thing, as such you need more O2 in your gases, what better way to do it then simply inject O2 in the exhaust itself? And because they do it before the cat it mixes perfectly and the rules of less CO2 compared to O2 is met. It really has no other meaning then that. Have fun: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiler-combustion-efficiency-d_271.html The real bad gas is CO, that kills people, but they never talk about that.

I presume you mean the tubes coming from the airbox and goto the cylinder-covers. They are there to let (clean) air in and out of the oil-circuit. If those are leaking they could (in theory) put dirt in your oil. I assume you mean those, else show a picture of the tubes you are talking about.