Mohawk

Question. What is the trigger for the quick shifter ?

Looks like power on one pin, to earth on another with signal on the 3rd pin, but is it just a positive voltage trigger ?

I can see the setting in the software to set the trigger voltage, so assume that part is variable, so in theory any positive feed on the sensor line could be made to trigger the QS !

Played some more with the RB Master software & nowhave options for defining the number of rows/columns, but they are a simple menu of fixed options, 40x8 etc, no means to specify the actuals you want. Busy converting PC custom values to RB rpm fields.

It appears the newer RB Master, does not allow you set the rows, it only allows start & end RPM. Was a bit confused, as I thought Yaman had missed my RPM increase, but when you reset it in the config it can be increased there.

Found a good calculation for conrod piston stress increase with RPM. If the you divide the RPM increase by 100 then square the result it gives an estimate of the stress load % increase.

So for me, the default VFR800 rev limiter is 12,200rpm, I asked for a 300rpm increase, so 300/100=3, 3x3=9% load increase.

You can see why Yaman recommends a max of 500rpm rev increase by running the numbers. 500/100=5, 5x5=25% load increase which is significant, and probably close if not over the built in safety margin the manufacturers may have incorporated for longevity.

Ah OK, I was going to transfer in small blocks once I'd compared the tables.

That does bring up one thing, there appears to be different RPM setting on different pics of RB fuel maps, what is the standard step, as in 500rpm, 250rpm etc ? The ones from CR above seem to show 300rpm steps. Is that default, is it configurable ? I'm happy with 300.

The first PC3 custom map I had had 500rpms values & the bike was OK, but I then discovered you could activate 250rpm values, so I did & interpolated the change between the rpm cell above & below & the bike was even smoother after that ! 300rpms is close enough

Thanks Yaman, I thought from reading RB info that the fuel correction is % change of the open duty cycle on the injector !?

10% is 10% unless someones telling porkies !

I'll try the unit as is with the Vtec map & hope the unit can tune effectively from the narrow band sensors.

Hey CR, can you manually make a make in the RB Master software ? Reason I ask is I'd like to copy my PC3 Custom Map injection % figures into RB as a base line, as their base map will be for a stock Vtec engine !

Oh and another thing, will the unit power up on the USB, without being attached to the bike ? So I can do the above in comfort of my office

Sniff sniff, mines still awaiting UK Customs clearance :( More pain when they sting me for VAT & import duty :( still cheaper than UK supplier though :)

Thanks, Just had a look & those are available in the UK for a reasonable cost, so once the Units here I'll get one ordered :)

Hi Yaman, The RB Modules support a quickshifter. But will it use various QS or will it only support the RB one ?

On the ignition advance, as detailed by CandyRed, what fuel is it tested with by Dimsport ?

A very sweet project. If you intercool then use a water/air cooler with separate radiator electric pump.

I'd love to see some pics of the turbo exhaust & boost pipe plumbing.

Do you have any idea on the weight difference between the rc45 swingarm and the VTEC swing arm?

Ask Larry he scored an RC45 race one for Mr RC45 I believe. So I hope he has weights for standard (close to 5th gen) and the race unit.

Is there enough clearance under that rad for the front wheel ? It might hit at full compression !

The oil cooler can help, a bigger one would reduce the temp of the oil returned, but it would work better if placed in front of the header pipes. The cooler lines on the VFR feed the cooled oil to the high pressure pump pickup chamber, so it will have an effect.

That said the oil needs to be at a reasonable temperature to do its job properly. Too cold allows sloppy plain bearing fit, to hot causes seizure, so there are limits, as oil was NOT intended specifically as a coolant in this engine.

Looks good.

Hi Yaman, regarding the Rapidbike Master software, I assume it comes with the Race unit, or do we need to download it ?

Hey Rush, mines a Y2K 5th Gen, with O2 sensors, so you are not on your own !

I've equipped my 5th gen with Ramair, I've had it to a true 140mph & it's was still accelerating hard. If you look up my 10 year refresh threads, then 1st & second versions are detailed there. I basically sealed the under tank area to the airbox & sealed the edges to the tank to the frame where the original intake was. Then fitted a scoop below the head stock, between the oil cooler & the cross rad hose.

Nope, SA1713 was !

Hi CR, I was actually referring to the OP's build ;)

so as its been over a month, any news on this build ?

Well this one runs & runs every few months ;) Honda messed up when they put the side rads on, as they can trap stones between the rad & the fan. The fan is normally on the back of the rad, but they didn't leave room & had to fit it to the front. THAT is the ONLY reason the fan sucks from the outside of the bike.

The major problem with that is the lack of a fan on the right rad. So hot air get put into the fairing void, cooking the engine & the right rad does nothing at all to cool the engine.

I tried the vtr fan blade and while it works great if you are moving at 25 mph or more, it is incappable of cooling the bike off while stuck in traffic. blowing hot, stagnant, engine compartment air across the radiator will not drop temps.

Again that is because the right rad does nothing & now drawing air through the left rad the correct way, actually sucks air through the right rad into the void & this hot air gets pulled through the left rad, achieving nothing.

So the best solution, is two fold, one swap the VFR fan blade for a VTR one & fit a large stone grill over the back of the fan motor support frame, this is what Honda should have done. On the VTR they left a large gap between the blade & the rad, this deals with most road sized debris, but reduces the fans effectiveness. On the VFR the blade is too close to the rad, so a grill is required to keep any large debris out, to stops the fan blade using it to destroy the rad fins ! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

So I have the following on mine, VTR fan blade + grill. Right rad fan added, this being a very high flow PC cooling fan fitted on the inside of the rad front half with a protective stone grill, but you could use some of the new slimline fans from CBR's but they are all puller fans so should fit on the outside of the rad. I also have a lower temp fan switch fitted in place of the standard one in the left rad. This works perfectly & turns on the fans early before the bike gets silly hot & thus the fans have an easier time cooling the engine.

Last summer we had 32c (90f) air temps in the UK, which is unusual & my bike never got hot once, even when stuck in traffic with local air temps over the tarmac of over 100f. The joy is by pumping air through both rads, they suck cool air in from in front of the bike & out both sides.

I also have an electric water pump, which circulates the coolant at a constant rate, where a mechanical pump is really needed is when its pumping the least & the rest of the time it over pumps. I can turn off the engine when I stop & leave the ignition on & the water pump does its job & the fans work if needed.

yeah been there done that & 30mm is the most length you can lose & still have a good VS entry. You could radius the airbox mouths & shorten by another 10mm, but not sure if it would flow as much air. The TB's are good for 1mm increase to 38mm, but as per Bioblade testing, they are NOT the restrictive area. Making them bigger will achieve nothing, but messing up the fuelling. Cam lift & duration limit the breathing of this engine. It lacks compression which is easily fixed on the 6th Gen, but much harder on the 5th gen, but can be done.

The RC45 has the same inlet track as the 800, the 45 as standard has a 46mm TB, but with a 40mm velocity stack. The 45 race kit opens this by replacing the VS with full width ones. The man Larry, made a replica set, spent ages on it & LOST power everywhere. Without the race kit, it's a bad idea. My modified VS are 40mm diameter & 30mm shorter, but I've not got round to dynoing them yet.

The idea is they should move torque higher up the rev range & thus increase HP. We will see ;)

The journalist that had the BioBlade done told me, that some mild head work (suspect HRC RC45 mods) some cams, new exhaust one off by Arkropovic & an aftermarket airfilter gave it 124rwhp, 130 on methanol. It retained the standard airbox, as they had to pass noise tests !

Yeah the lights on the PC are fuel adjustment not Throttle Position !

Total waste of time unless you are racing, they do NOT do anything useful & are of NO benefit to a normal road machine.

If you look at some of the early V4 collectors, for that is what he has built here, they enclose much of the primary header, so what looks like very short primaries are actually much longer ! You could do the same with this setup, thus giving more baffle area to play with. It's a nice first try, but could be improved as far as sound control is concerned.

Sorry was not meant to be a jibe. The VFR service manuals are online on this site, that's the best place to start if you want to learn, all parts are described correctly & there is a complete coolant flow diagram, which shows what does what & where it is located.

The reinforced hose did not seal correctly dues to the top hose mount stub NOT being the correct size ! Even with the 45 degree parts, it would not seal properly, when I measured it it was 1.5mm undersize. I used some heat shrink to bring it up to the required size & its been sealed tight evr since.

Good luck with the build.