iske

Ok. I went with CBR 600 F4i forks and mudguard, VTEC Triples, clipons. VFR Fi (2001) front wheel and axle and spacers (yes it fits perfectly). F4i front brakes (calipers and master), HEL Dual braided lines, rear master and HEL short line for bridge. Jaime Daugherty supplied everything for front fork rebuild. Springs, valves, bushings, seals, and 929 shock conversion. I did the transformation. I finished on Friday night. First impression is: Transformed Wow ! The package works great. Suspension and braking everything is very very good. I would like to thank everyone on this great forum. It's is a real treasure to be here and read all this data, information, ... Especially to Baileyrock and Jamie Daugherty. This is how my bike looks now: After test ride. New forks and brakes. I realy like the stock look. I think this is how Honda should make them in the first place. Ivan

Thanks Jamie. I notice on the rear is one rate higher than suggested same percentage increase front/back. But you are the expert. :) So if I go .95 front and 1150 on the back (instead of 1100), I can't go wrong? Ivan.

Ivan, Springs or correct spring rates are the Foundation of any suspension, they support the bike and riders weight. Valving controls the springs osolation, suspension transitions, bump and ride control. On the front running F4i parts allow adjustments of both comp & rebound which is Great, it allows for rider tuning to personal preference. The F4i rebound valving is decent, but the compression valving is poor. Installing some older Showa 3-port valve bodies would make a big improvement. You would have to change the shim stake to get full benifits. BR Thanks. I will keep that in mind.

Depends slightly of what type of riding you plan on doing. The .95/19.6 should be good and on the firmer side better for twisties and the other combo slightly softer for better touring/comfort. BR Well I do both, that is why I bought VFR in the first place. When I am in the twisties chasing fellows on 1000RR, 1000 K7,8,9,... R1 and others I tend to ride fast and agressive. But When I am touring I always carry side cases, tob case and tank bag and passenger (I know too much). On stock susspension somethimes feels like I am doing push ups the whole trip. So if valving is what makes ride plush or harsh not the spring it self. What is the best compromise? I must get it right at first try, because I am importing parts to Serbia (so called third world country), and it will be extremly expensive to send it back, almost as the cost of new. As you said before, there is only one spring that fits the rider (based od free and rider sag numbers), I am guessing Better go firm I can dial in valving since I will have adjustable suspension. Or I am getting it wrong? Ivan.

Hello I believe this is the right place to ask a spring rate question. I am building my 5th gen 2001 VFR. I will put F4i front end with VTEC fork tubes and VTEC triple clamps. I am planing to buy AK-20s (we will see about that :) ) , and get NITRON Race Shock in the back. What spring rate do you suggest for my weight (85kg/185lbs)? The guy that will set up AK-20 for me said 0.95 in front, so I guess 19.6 in the back. Or is it better to go with 0.90 front and 18.6 in the back?