bmart

It was a few weeks and dozens of projects ago...but I can pull them and look/measure again. I've always measured with teh springs out, as all of my manuals suggest. Do you have another method? 

Quick question. I swapped the stock front fork springs (.740 kg/mm) for .900 kg/mm but the front is very rigid after. I used shorter spacers to match the combined length of the stock parts. Before I go swapping spacer lengths, can you guys think of anything that could have gone wrong? This was really simple and I've installed many fork springs over the years without issue. 

Spooned the last pair of RSIIs onto the yellow bike and will eventually get to ride it! The'98 will likely get RSIIIs in the spring. 

My VFR connections on this list indicate that I'm doomed if I do nothing. My VFR sources off of this list say that most VFRs run just fune into high mileage without issue. So...I'm open to a cheap fix, but not interesting in spending 10% of the bike's value on electrons. 🙂  Plus, Yamahas rock, so it would be fun to have a Yamaha R/R on the VFR. 

Thanks for reviving the thread. I'll look that one up. The VFRness on my '98 has been spot on in it and the '99 before it. The '00 got new Dunlop RSIIs and one day I'll have time to test ride it! Larger rear sprocket and levers are also on the bench and ready for install. 

The tires on my '98 are nearing end of life, especially the rear (~3500 miles per RS2 rear). The tires on the '00 are original and unpleasant to think about riding on. 🙂

My '98 had RoadSmart IIs, which I am in love with. They aren't available anymore, but IIIs and IVs are. I have one set left in the closet and am not sure which bike they will go on. Probably the '00 as it isn't riding as is (not is it on the road yet). 

I truly had no issues on the GPR-300 set on the CB-1, but the typical dunlop feedback wasn't in play. If I were riding the VFR more (too many bikes!) I'd try the RoadSport IIs and report back. 

I haven't ridden any Metzlers, Bridgestones, or Michelins that I've liked. I generally ride the VFR pretty hard solo or two up and have even had it coaching at some track days (with proper tires, not STs which uslaly start to give up before turn 2!). 

When can we start a new poll for current options? 🙂

Care to provide years or p/ns that work? Direct plug in or rewire? I'll be awake soon & will search!

Thanks. $240 though. I'll also look up other options. 

And I apprecizte them. I also got some opinions from a bunch of Internet friends (VFR owners) on another list. lol Looks like it is staying and I'm on the hunt for a few aftermarket goodies which seem to be getting harder to find. 

Thanks all!

Got it. Thanks!

Also found this which mentions a frame change, but it looks non-U.S. HESS was non U.S., I believe, but also see modified clutch. Thoughts? (Sorry...I like to track things!.)

"2000: Honda VFR800i gets minor update; slight frame changes, modified clutch, refined fuel injection, more durable electrics, improved mirrors, HISS security system."

It isn't all bad...3k miles. 

9 hours ago, Tirso said:

Also, having a VFRness may still lead to R/R failure.  A Shindengen SH847 will solve the problem for the bike's life.
Have fun with the new yellow bike!

Thanks for this. Are you saying R/R only, or with the VFRness for the 2000? 

You'll laugh...red. I absolutely hate red and have owned a 1999 and 1998 for a total of nearly 12 years and ~30k miles. I've even thought of just swapping the bodywork and selling the low mile 2000 as red! 

Also discovering the VFRness is different...and the R/R?

Are there big problems with the exhaust or wax unit? I found rumblings about both, but nothing concrete (worth worrying about). Thank you!

Thanks, guys. 

Why would you rather the 98, Captain 80s? (great name...)

Hey all,

After nearly eight years of ownership, I may be moving all of the goodies on my 1998 to a 2000 model and have a few questions. I believe that everything will be a direct swap, but hope that you guys can guide me if I'm wrong. Thank you!

Items:

Sprockets/chain

Fork internals

Shock

GIVI rack

Staintune slip on (2000 has O2 sensors and cat, right?)

Sargent seats

Windscreen

Air fitler

Might I be missing anything?

Once I wrap up the swaps, the 1998 will be for sale here in Charlotte, NC in nearly all stock form w/~25k miles and excellent. 

Anything else I should know about the swap to 2000, including the wax (?) fuel enrichment unit? 

Thanks, all!

Well, I pulled off the BT-023 pair and installed a set of RS2s today. The rear was done at under 3k miles, which just makes me sad. The front has a ton of life left, but I wanted a match pair. One test drive later and ayep, I made the right decision. They are better in every way. They last longer, provide way more feedback, make tar snakes disappear, and work better in the wet.

I now have a less than ½ worn BT-23 front left over which I may keep for later, or sell along with my track day takeoffs. I wish Dunlop made these in CB-1 size…

I can see all of that. I've already had the front resprung and valved properly, so I'm sticking with it. I was weary of the linked brakes, but they've been brilliant wet and dry, so no point in changing them.

You're right about Yamaha brakes. They're the best out there for stock. I swapped them onto my Suzuki track bike so that the lever would have some effect. :)

Tell am amateur, what is that front end going to do for you?

That is my current plan.

Update:

Under 3k miles. The rear BT-023 is D-U-N done. The front has about 2/3 life left, which is impressive.

$/mile

BT-023 front (est) $100/7.5k-$.013/mile (hard for me to believe if I didn't ride the miles myself)

RS2 front $130/5k-$.026/mile

BT-23 rear $135/3k=$.045/mile (not much of a deal, despite lower pricepoint)

RS2 rear $180/5k=$.036/mile (and better in rain)

May I suggest running all tires at 0 PSI so as to avoid any gasket blowing? :)

For street riding, I think it is up to the rider to set to whatever they wish. I usually hang around the manufacturer's because it has never been a problem on ST tires while scraping knees or hard parts. Why change?

No one said you can't! :)

My experience on and off the track is that a rider will notice changes in tire pressure, and that the bike will work differently, but under most circumstances, a pound or three here and there isn't go make an earth-shattering difference. There are far too many variables for anyone to provide the "perfect" numbers. Rider weight. Gear/equipment. Outside temps. Hot or cool roads. Suspension. Braking style. It is a fool's errand until you get into a somewhat controlled environment.

I didn't want to say anything, but you are right. 36/42 or you're probably doing more harm than good.