bmart

Have you looked at your boot height? They may just be too thick for smooth shifting both ways. I've seen that countless times. Moving the lever can help one way, but makes the other way worse. 

Found a tan connector last night, so I have to pull it apart and clean it...and maybe source the housing and/or blades. 

So after converting the dash to LED, my 2000 "dash" turn signals are intermittant. The left one sometimes works. The right one rarely works. I have it all apart again. Cleaned dirty fuses like I did on the 1998, but no difference. Checked the switch. Cleaned the relay connector. No difference. Swapped bulbs to a few other kinds. No difference. It did not do this before the bulb swap. I can get them to work sometimes if I wiggle things (relay, connector, bulb sockets, my left ear...), but not the same things, so I think that is coincidental. Leaning toward just having an old relay. Thoughts? 

Looking good! I wish that I was close enough to join you on that ride. 

I wish that someone would give me some bikes to play on!

Belarus...found it, but currently out of stock. You could write to them. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284690254630

I've owned a bunch of 3rd Gen Subaru Legacy sedan/wagon models and have enjoyed noticing the differences through these "identical" years. Silly things like the aimable dash vent and much smoother air/fuel map on my 2000 that disappeared in later years. Sadly, everything that changed got cheaper/worse over the five year cycle!

While replacing the dash bulbs on the 1998 and 2000 VFRs within a few days, I noticed that the plastic clips on the 1998 are of the "T" style; easy to remove and to break, and that the 2000 were the Phillips head; harder to remove and to break. Curious...

Search this forum for Belarus. I've already hunted this down and posted it somewhere for someone else here!

I can hear the members laughing already. 

A few days after reassembly of...everything, I turned the key on for something and discovered that 1/2 of the bulbs weren't lit. So, I ordered some 6000k T10 bulbs and installed tonight. Just like my CB-1, I discovered that some of the bulbs are smaller. Are they flat T5 bases? They're all working, so together it went. While the screen looks brighter than the bulbs in the 2000, the rest looks pretty much the same to me. 

Thank you! It is reassembled. Nothing looked like corrosion, but there were some grimy spots which I cleaned. 

From a dash connector standpoint, is there anything other than those two connectors (blue and grey)? I have it apart now and am about to clean and reassemble, unless there's more disassembly! Thanks all! (I thought there were some other smaller connectors in there.)

Tackling this tomorrow (while doing the sign of the cross)!

VFR forks getting attention over the next week or three. Trying a new to me place that came highly recommended from a riding buddy. '98 forks are excellent from Thermosman. 22k+ since last refresh. Also bringing '00 forks to request setting the damping up as similar as they can get to the perfect '98. We'll see! (Still hunting for a reasonably prices shock for the '00.)

Also taking both ends of the CB-1 to the same guy. It has been a decade and a lot of miles since they've been refreshed either. 

Also also taking the KLX to him to let him set up the carbs properly. We've made it better, but it still runs rich and doesn't like to run when it is cold, on or off of choke. 

The garage is a frackin' mess with parts and bolts everywhere. 

Hi bmart,

Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

Thanks, guys. I'll check all of those before the next ride! 

Found many fuses looked like these. Cleaned them and the fuse holder. Also the DIODE ASSY., THREE WAY (SUMITOMO)
31730-MAS-601, which looked like a fuse to me. 

A VFR, a CB-1, and a Suzuki ride into a bar, and the bartender says, "what is this, a joke?" Anyway...

I finally got out on UGLYRED, the 1998 VFR you all talked me into keeping, for the first ride since months ago. It functioned fine, but there were peculiarities in the dash display, but not other systems. The clock would periodically reset itself, as would the two trip meters. I've never seen that before on...anything.

Voltage remained correct at ~14.7V, like always. It was 12.5V when I rolled it out, which was a little odd, as I charge it every two weeks. The Motobatt battery is just under 3.5 years old and they seem to go 6-8 years without issue.  I checked the battery terminals;  the fuses and other connectors are up next (tonight/tomorrow). Then I remembered a post, which I couldn't find despite my best searching, about corroded connections in the board that makes up the dash. Does this sound related? Any other good ideas? Grounding connections? I did not need another bike task on the winter list! Red. I hate red!

Mobil 1 4T has served me well for many years, available nearly anywhere. I've also heard some nice things about Valvoline's motorcycle oil. Both say good for wet clutches right on the labels. 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-Racing-4T-Full-Synthetic-Motorcycle-Oil-10W-40-1-qt/16767829?athbdg=L1100

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-4-Stroke-Motorcycle-10W-40-Conventional-Motor-Oil-1-QT/16879749

Right. Regardless of the damage done elsewhere!

250. There's a lot of chatter about all of the improvements on the 300, but most skilled riders seem to think that no one would notice. And I never even use the 250 power!

My VFRs got a little Honder brother the other day. 

I've never heard of YSS. What are they similar to and can they be purchsed set up properly for the rider's weight before they're shipped? 

"For Sale: Slightly used zero mile Honda. No low ballers."

That looks like big fun! 

I'm frequently surprised at how close people are comfortable riding to one another. 

Italian pahts? How long until it failed?  😁