Duc2V4

Since I have an 8 spoke coming in next week and I'm going to have it powder coated, I'll need to match the front wheel at the same time, which means removing the seals and bearings. This also means replacing them with new ones (might as well), so the question is, should I just get OEM or go with the All Balls kit? I'm going to do the taper steering bearings, so thought two birds, one stone. Any suggestions one way or the other?

BTW, I believe I'll be going with a Gold Metallic color on the rims...

Cheers!

I often wonder, "What have I gotten myself into?" whenever installation involves, Sawzall, Deremel, Grinder and the like...But as long as nothing snaps in two, breaks off at the wrong moment, or generally doesn't loose its structural integrity, I guess it's what has to be done! When I bought my Heli-Bars, one if the first instructions is to take a Dremel and cut off one of the banjo bolt stay tabs. I was a little surprised but knowing it was not going to diminish any clutch or braking capability, out came the Dremel. Oh, and any installation that does not involve blood letting is a good one. Knuckle busters are expected when working in tight spaces though.

Congrats on your install. Enjoy your "new" bike!

Cheers

To go allong with the last few post. Is the gate in decent shape or old and decrepit? You could always offer to build a new gate and just make it a little wider. Win, Win, you get a wider entrance and the landlord gets a new gate. To adress your issue first hand though, have you looked for slightly shorter mirrors? I think the ones for the CBR's might be a little shorter, at least when I look at pictures of them on eBay, but also appear to have the same mounting bracket (don't hold me to this). They may just be short enough to make the bike narrower but still allow decent rear view. I was actually thinking of going this route due to the few close calls I've had when lane splitting. There have been a few vehicles that have their mirrors at about the same height as mine! On my Duc, the mirrors are almost completely useless and would seem that they are only there to make the bike street legal.

I own that bike but can't answer your question because Seb did the work Maybe he'll chime in shortly and help you out. He lives in upstate New York so getting him to do job probably won't happen (I lived in Philadelphia eight years and rode up there.)

I would not have attempted this mod on my own. No way.

i am pretty mechanically inclined and knowledgable, just curious on the brake line differences between 5th and 6th gen

One of the members here, Stoshmonster, posted a good write up on 5th vs. 6th Gen braking systems, but it was posted at VFRW (http://vfrworld.com/forums/general-vfr-discussions/34274-slow-speed-maneuver-lbs.html) see post #5

Anyone looking for a donor cover, there's one on CL, amongst other items...http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/mcy/3607483479.html

I won't be mounting them just yet, as I have ordered a white and black euro style fairing kit, which hasn't arrived yet. My bike is Candy Glory Red, but i'm planning on doing a white and black theme with white powder-coat wheels. The stock silver-ish finish on the wheels is just so...MEH.

I can't wait to see how this will look. I think the VFR is one bike that looks really good in White and some of the non US offerings that have the B&W colors look very cool. Do keep us up to date with pics. I am really interested in how the halo lights look head on.

Two questions:

1. Did you only have to 'bake" it once or did you need to put it back in the oven before you were able to disasemble the housing?

2. It looks like your projectors have the "halo" ring, did you opt for the "Angel Eyes"?

Cheers

you should move or extend the fuse box under the seat...

Very cool indeed. Great Job!

I know this is an old post but I have a little update. I recently moved the switch to the left side of the console. Reason is that I had a blown fuse and to get to the fuse box, you have to remove the top right panel, which also means you have to remove the fastener that the switch currently acts as. Although I was able to access the fuse box without having to completely remove the switch, it is easier to not have the switch located there.

I found this web site has some good info on HID lighting and I believe I got the link from one of the other HID threads here.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

by SS ones ...a little bit more and they dont rust.

Speed Bleeders from www.wiremybike.com are officially on their way. I got the shipping notice on Friday. FYI, buying them from WMB was a bit cheaper than buying them direct and they had all the parts as a kit vs. having to order them individually from SB direct, so cheers on the referral Seb!

I bought some direct from Speed Bleeder for my Duc and I am very happy with them, but I'll check out the link, I always like to support fellow forum members. Thanks for responding guys!

Cheers

So I am getting around to ordering my Stainless Steel braided clutch and brake lines for my 2009 VFR800 (non ABS) and I figured I put in some Speed Bleeders while I'm at it. Can someone check me on the quantity I need? I counted 7 bleed points but I thought I would check just in case I missed one located under the body panels. Also, they all appear to be the same size, is that accurate too?

Front Left Caliper - Qty. 2

Front Right Caliper - Qty. 1

Proportional Valve - Qty, 1 (under seat)

Rear Caliper - Qty. 2

Clutch Slave - Qty. 1

--------------------------

Total : 7

Cheers

Did I miss something? These all appear to be 5 lug wheels.

Yep, you did miss something. They are available in a 4x100 bolt pattern in those diameters and widths stated above, the pictures are just generic examples of what those wheels look like.

They just "happened" to photograph the 5 bolt version.

Clicken sie linken and read the .pdf, it has all the 411

Yep, page 2 of the PDF. I opened it earlier but didn't see the second page.

Cheers!

If anyone else has a bent to do the car wheel swap, you don't have to use a 17x7 wheel.

They can be had in 17x6.5, 17x6, and 17x5.5

http://www.workwheel...ory=23&wheel=47

http://www.workwheel...rt SC2 Spec.pdf

Did I miss something? These all appear to be 5 lug wheels.

Sometimes it takes a day or two for a response on some topics, especially is it's good riding weather, more people on the road than at their computer. That being said, I thought there was a post here on VFRD or maybe it was VFRW that went over this procedure, you might try doing some more forum searching on both sites.

Good luck, I hope you find a resolution.

Cheers

Sweet! Now as soon as I finish paying Uncle Sam I can put money on getting my SS brake lines. Thanks for the write up.

Here's what I'm planning, but not in any particular order:

Steel Braided clutch/brake lines

Dynotune (with PAIR Valve removal)

Upgrade suspension front/rear (not sure if it will be rebuild or replacement. most likely rebuild front, replace rear)

New tires sport/touring (haven't decided which make/model just yet. thinking Dunlop Sport Max Roadsmart 2)

Of course Uncle Sam will dictate if any or all of these will be possible, we'll see what happens after 4/15!

Cheers

Very clean, I like the little finger indent on the end.

Cheers!

I found a nice handlebar mounted toggle that would work for the PCV. I was going to get this for switching my maps, but I got the pushbutton for the quickshift feature instead. I'm mounting a toggle under the seat near the PCV since I don't think I'll need to switch maps on-the-fly.

It's $38 at http://www.sierra-mc.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AR-STT

My current intention is to get the bike Dyno tuned and have it done for Max performance and then have them tweak it for Max MPG. Not sure if the is practical but thought it would be cool to be able to switch modes per say. I also see others doing this to toggle between a set map and the Auto-tune device.

That's brilliant. The only downside is the small amount of extra work when you need to remove the bezel but how many times are you going to do that anyway.

I also wanted a way to install my grip heater switch without drilling and found it fit perfectly in the steering column.

BC

That's along the same vein too, very nice. Personally I don't think I'll need to remove the bezel too often or at all, but even so another minute or two for the switch ain't bad.

Cheers

So I wanted to put in a toggle switch that would allow me to change maps/setting on my PCV but I didn't want to drill any holes in the fairing/body panels. I found this small toggle switch that is the same diameter as the fairing quick release "rivet" and was able to replace this with the toggle switch. It does double duty, it gives me a toggle switch and fills essentially the same purpose as the "rivet". It cost me $2.80 + tax for the toggle switch and the water proof cover, Took 15 minutes to install and I was able to route the wire through the right hand side panel and then across the frame under the tank and under the seat where my PCV is located.

Cheers.

BR / zRoyz,

You both mention being able to use the stock VFR wheel/rotor combo with the F4i forks and zRoys you are using the F4i caliper/master cylinder with that combo. Does that mean that the VFR calipers will not work with the F4i forks? I found a few sets of '02 F4 front ends for sale and thought I might look into this mod, but I would prefer to keep the stock brakes on my '09 w/linked braking intact. (I pressume they need to be F4i, not plain F4?)

You can't keep the link brakes with F4i forks because the LHS 6th gen caliper mount has the link brake mastercylinder for rear brake & the mount on that fork leg for that system is completely different, you can't really use the 6th gen lower with the F4i because of the compression adjustment adjuster is on the lower F4i fork leg & the reason to upgrade the 6th gen forks with F4i is to gain remote rebound/compression adjustment they have & the 6th gen doesn't. To keep the link brakes & improve the standard forks there are kits aval to add rebound remote adjustment but honestly if you get your 6th gen forks valving & sring rate set up well the only real worth while upgrade is USD forks.

Bellow is my 6th gen with CBR1000RR forks, I have sice installed my Ohlins CBR1000RR forks because the 25mm valving they have suits it better than the 30mm Ohlins cartridge kit in the forks in picture (the forks in picture are now installed on my CBR1000RR as the 30mm cartridges suit that bike better). The difference they make with handling & braking is like drinking your fav beer ice cold to the standard forks drinking it boiling hot.

These are Ohlins forks on my CBR that are now on above & above now on CBR, the reason for swap is the 30mm valving is for heavy braking & high front end loading, the VFR doesn't load the front end anywhere near as much as a sportbike.

That's what I figured. I didn't want to get too carried away but I would like a little adjustability on the suspension. Since my bike does dual purpose, commuter and partime playbike, I want to be able to tune the suspension to what type of riding I'll be doing. However, since its primary role is to get me "there and back", I don't feel I need to go too hog wild. If I realy feel the need to go knee dragging or hit the track, I usually take the Duc. As far as the after market "remote rebound/compression adjustment" kits, those might be more of what I'm looking for.

Cheers.

On my 02 street Vtec I had Aftershocks re-valve & re-spring my stock forks and have run them Hard for over 50k miles with very good results! Actually they didn't feel that good until I balanced the rear Ohlins with the correct spring, then entire bike was transformed!

Only downside is No adjust-ability

On my 04 Vtec Track bike I installed a full F4i front end w/calipers and radial M/C, new shim stack for stock Rebound valve and changed to large port Showa Compression valves w/new shim stack. Felt Great and fully adjustable.

W/ F4i forks you can use stock VFR wheel/Rotors or F4 wheel & stock rotors or F4i wheel and rotors. I used a stock 06 Vtec fender on teh F4i forks, only 4 of the 6 mounts bolts work, but that's plenty.

BR

Bellow is my old track bike 4th gen with 6th gen front end, I only used them because I had them from my 6th gen when it was upgraded to USD forks. Due to the RHS fork leg needs the link brake mastercylinder setup there not a good swap, I just filled the master cylinder & sealed it off. Your better off using F4i forks which have the bonus of rebound/compression adjustment. The difference from the standard forks & brakes was worth the change 100 times over & needed it for the track.

Bellow is F4i front end I fitted to friends bike, parts were: F4i forks, F4i calipers, F4i master cylinder, F4i guard, 6th gen triple clamps, 6th gen clipons, 6th gen wheel, 6th gen rotors, 6th gen axle.

BR / zRoyz,

You both mention being able to use the stock VFR wheel/rotor combo with the F4i forks and zRoys you are using the F4i caliper/master cylinder with that combo. Does that mean that the VFR calipers will not work with the F4i forks? I found a few sets of '02 F4 front ends for sale and thought I might look into this mod, but I would prefer to keep the stock brakes on my '09 w/linked braking intact. (I pressume they need to be F4i, not plain F4?)