Terry

I never had this problem on my 83 VF750F, but the cam chain and tensioners were rubbish! I didn't keep it long enough (30000km) to develop any cam issues that I knew about, but I did have to get new chains and tensioners in that time.

It is good to be able to see that Honda learned their lesson with later engines, the cams and buckets in both my 99 VFR800 and 97 VTR1000 look like new after 90 and 70,000km respectively.

However, the camchain tensioners in the VTR are STILL RUBBISH!!! Installing manual tensioners was my first upgrade, more like an insurance down-payment.

The last Gold Valve I installed was in my RF900 so I don't have access to specific instructions that relate to the VFR. However the RF instructions specified that a drilled bleed hole was only needed if there wasn't some other fixed bypass there already. So on the 5th gen the hole is needed on the compression valve but not on the rebound.

If anyone has specific instructions for installing a Gold Valve for rebound I'd be interested to read what they say about this.

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Having read though the posts above, I think there is an error in the installation for the rebound valves, where there is talk of drilling a low speed bypass hole into the side of the Gold Valve.

I am intimately familiar with the inside of the 5th gen fork, and this definitely already has a bypass hole in it, basically oil passes through up through the hollow shaft and exits at right angles to the shaft. I have circled the hole in HS's image. If I am not mistaken it looks like the 6th gen compression valve also has the same set-up and I have circled that as well. So just a word of caution make sure that you need that drilled hole before you make it, otherwise you will end up with too little low speed compression damping. The 5th gen compression valve definitely needs to have the hole drilled through the valve body however.

Well I don't know if there is any coincidence, but I cleaned my bobbins the day before I noticed the wobbling rotor! Beats me whether this caused the runout or whether it was always there and I was just paying more attention. Anyway, I managed to straighten the carrier last night so there's now 0.12mm runout, have yet to test ride but I can feel the difference just spinning the wheel.

Darned if I know how or why, but midway through a ride on Sunday I noticed the front brake start pulsing. I have followed the extremely helpful instructions above (the g-clamp base was inspired!) and determined my right rotor now has 0.58mm (22 thou) of runout (service limit is 0.3mm) at the carrier, so I'll be attempting to correct that with some gentle prying tonight. The left rotor by comparison is near perfect with just 0.07mm runout.

Thanks to HispanicSlammer, Ferchja and Zupatun for taking the time to post your methods.I hope I get the same good outcome.