Dutchgixxer

Sadly, nothing for the DCT :sad:

Got this from another site. The author is a Honda Mechanic.

"the thing is like this...

you wont derestrict it as it is not restricted in anyway. The clutches are programed to ingage softly at a rate that the gear change is hapening much quicker than any person can do on a regular gearbox. Meaning that if the 1st and 2nd were restricted the clutch engage rate should be diferent for those two gears...but it isnt ;) .

All together it is a complicated system that you dont want to mess with with any resistor plugs or symilar...

Trust me when i say...leave it alone.

So lets get to the speed limitation...

again it is in the ECU and it is there because bikes cyclistics are not up to the higher speeds than the 250 km/h she is doing now (and Honda dont wants that somebody gets killed at that speed as the bike could be unstable ower 250 km/h).

Alltogether it is a triple secured system and it is impossible to change it without interfering in the ECU (only Honda can do that in the factory, but they wont) and fooling around with some blind plugs or resistor plugs for the wire loom conections will throw a fault light on your dashboard and you will be able to engage the 1st or 2nd gear only (sort of a limp mode to help you get to the nearest Honda service if something goes bad on the trip).

And then you wil need help of course (to get that gearbox back in neutral and get you going again).

Bottom line...dont touch anything on the bike...do not disconect any sensors, cable conectors or unknown switches as it will triger the fault light and it will record the faults in the ECU unit."

I think its safe to say that this applies only to the DCT bike. Means my dream is up in smoke! :angry:

For the DCT the only mod possible is the speed derestriction mod. I you tell the ecu that the speed is 250 km/h while riding faster there is no error generated.

For the manual clutch type all the mods are easy with no errors generated. No restistors are needed.

I am no Honda technichan but an electrical engineer.

News Flash

Honda dealers worldwide report vadalism to their VFR1200 on the showroom floor.

It appears that cable end are cut to remove a plug.

This mystery baffles Honda HQ.

Investigation continue.....

:laughing6-hehe:

:laughing6-hehe:

I'd Luv to have a true plug and play piece of apparatus to rid the bike of this dumbed down mode!!

If you have a true interest, please post up, so perhaps we can see this come to fruition....

It would be most awesome :fing02:

Hi VFRRider,

I am also interseted in a true plug and play connector. Maybe it is possible to get one through the Honda dealer (without cable harness).

Ralf.

Honda is not going to help you! Honda has decided to restrict. They will not help to derestrict

Giving this some additional thought, whoever makes these ECU connectors for Honda isnt about to give us a few..

As far as these being replicated on the aftermarket..I just don't think so..... with that being said, I fear the only way

to do this would be to cut wires...

After speaking with Dynojet this afternoon, the connection they are gonna use, is behind the fuel tank, not that

they would part with anything even so... or would their vendor

So It really looks like a snip to cure the dip might be the only way!

So, with the snip method, does the gear indicator say 3 in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear?

Yes you are right. The ecm is fooled to derestricd 1 st and 2nd gear. The ECU thinks the 3 rd gear is used while it gearbox is in 1st or 2nd. It works perfectly and its a simple mod.

1st gear = 3rd

neutral = neutral

2nd = 3rd

3rd = 3rd

4 th = 4th

5th = 5th

6th = 6th

If you do not like wheelies you can decide to leave the 1st gear as it is. :biggrin:

see this link:

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2010-honda-vfr1200f/o/m19229#sch657650

Can you tell me which parts are needed Dutch?

Thanks

Please check post #46. I need a male and a female connector.

Larry, Phobe, any way to get the correct connectors?

Thanks

I have just been out on the 1200. Made the first 70 km on the VFR in 2011. Roads where dry so i could play a little with the bike. The derestriction works fabulous. The hessitation in 1st and 2 nd gear below 5000 rpm is completely gone. The sudden torque increase if the revs rise is not feelable any more. Its a better mod than putting a Akra on the VFR. Costs of this mod $7. Espesially fore mountain roads riding ( i use the low rev range a lot comming out of tight bends) this mod is very adviseable.

I have also experienced the quality of the öhlins rear shock. What a difference. Its more comftable but better damped. I have to tune it futher. But i need warm tarmac for that :cool:

Any updates on this? I'm a structural engineer, but not too electrically inclined. And would prefer a plug and play w/o splicng any wires. Like the O2 manipulators I used on my Ducati.

You could remove them in the future if you needed to. Someone could make some money on this idea before Dynojet gets around to it.

On the CBR1000, do you mean the timing retarder eliminator? My 08 CBR1000 had the redline area of the rpm timing restriction that cut 6 hp. So powercommander TRE plug and play

added back 6 hp on top end.

Supply me the right connectors. I will make you a wireing harness.

OK, waiting for the final version of the plug and play derestrictor for the Viffer 1200...

Mine is ready and working. It is not PnP but is works. its switchable so for me it is not a problem that the gear indicator gives false reading in 1 st and 2nd gear.

The bike wheelies off the throttle in 1st :)

Who can provide me 2 pair of Gear Position Sensor plugs. 2 male and 2 female plugs. I Will send you a wiring harness back with switch-able 1st and 2nd gear de restriction abillity .

It is a 8 pole connector with 7 poles used.

Looking at the pictures near where you guys are making the modification.... Is that a standard molex connector that we could buy to create an inline harness with a switch, rather than cutting up the OEM wires?

Yep and if you could build a bunch of them cheap I bet you could sell them for 50 bucks a shot.

Can you figure out wich molex connector it is ( Gear position sensor harnas near the switch ) ? Thank is advance !

DutchGixxer: please take a look at this and tell me what you think:

http://vfr1200fa.blogspot.com/2010/11/switchable-power-modes-part-ii.html

The trottle valve is operated by a closed loop servo system. The ECU reads the trottle valve position it is compared with its desired position. If there is a diffence ( error ) a correcting action is taken. The 4 wires are the 2 motor wires and 2 wires to measure the current trottle valve position. If one of the wires is cut or moddified the trottle by wire is not working any more. So do not mess with the closed loop servo.

Btw i am busy decoding the "serial link" to the combined dash indicator. to be continued. :cool:

I can almost guarantee you that the detuning in 1st and 2nd is due to something along the lines of your theory. Some people in the forum seem to have the opinion that Honda did this to help prevent people from spinning the tire or hurting themself like the internet idiot pulling out of the dealership on his gxxser. Well I say bullshit. A little dead is the same as alot dead. This bike has so much power in ALL the gears that I can't even believe it's a topic of conversation. I am so freaking thankful that I bought my bike before stumbling across this forum. I most likely would have read enough and decided "why in the world would I want that underpowered...short ranged...ugly as hell bike?" I rode about 200 miles of various twisties and open road this weekend in perfect weather and much of that time riding I was thinking about how much I love this rocket. Best bike I have ever had...hands down. I am in agreement with you that the detuning is for a mechanical reason so I won't be cutting wires on mine.

I have another theory on the torque limitation in first and second... It might be to keep the side gear case with its coil spring / cam damper from blowing up. A sudden high-torque hit will bang that cam into the coil spring really hard.

I wonder.....

Well i also say bullshit Why ?? in 1st and 2nd gear the bike is restricted. But till 5000 rpm. After 5000 rpm the power builds till a 150 hp on the back wheel.

If the gearbox could not cope with the power Honda should have made a restriction on top power not just at low revs because the power is there already lower.

The low rpm restriction in 1st and 2nd gear is just simple and cheap traction control.

I went to Radio Shack and bought the switch I linked to in post 19. Here is a crude illustration of how I plan to wire it.

I'll mount the switch under the seat... That will ensure that the bike has to be shut off to throw the switch.

The wires coming from the GPS need to be in the middle of the switch, and either set of leads coming off either end. Then in one ON position the sensor is hooked to the ecm, on the other ON position, you GPS is hooked to your modded wiring where it sends the GPS signal right to the 3rd gear wire.

Jason

:fing02:

I went to Radio Shack and bought the switch I linked to in post 19. Here is a crude illustration of how I plan to wire it.

I'll mount the switch under the seat... That will ensure that the bike has to be shut off to throw the switch.

I think your wiring diagram is false. In the derestriced mode 1st and 2 nd are always connected to the ECU. The ECU sees 2 gears engaged.

The GPS for 1st and 2nd wires have to move to both the middle ( P contact ) poles.

Now you have individual switches for 1st and second gear... Good idea I might do the same. It's probably advisable not to flip the switches when the bike is in first or second. Otherwise you could throw a fault code.

edit: a DPDT switch would also work.

Please explain what a DPDT switch is.

Thanks

Double-Pole-Double-Throw On-On switch. Like this one: http://www.thesource.ca/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Switches+Switches&product=2750636

It is an "on-on" switch with 6 terminals. I think I might repair my harness wiring then install one of these under the seat tied into the wiring near the GPS for switchable power modes.

Thanks for the explanation. I prefer 2 single On-On switches.

I have chanced the scematic a bit. I have made de de restriction switchable. Some testing learned that when using sports tires ( i do ) in cold weather or in the wet its very easy to spin the rear wheel.

Phobe had alterted the wiring near the ecu. I have made the mod near the GPSensors connector. Its just a choise

Now you have individual switches for 1st and second gear... Good idea I might do the same. It's probably advisable not to flip the switches when the bike is in first or second. Otherwise you could throw a fault code.

edit: a DPDT switch would also work.

Please explain what a DPDT switch is.

Thanks

Did you see that youtube video of the kid that throws down his brand new gixxer as he guns it out of the dealership? Rear wheel just spins out like the tire was made out of plastic! Then down she goes...

I saw a video of the VFR1200 being driven by a journalist at a japanese track way back at the initial release and he spun out the rear wheel...saved it, but still... I have a feeling 'if you don't know what your doing' the torque at the rear wheel will bite you in 1st or 2nd gear in this new VFR1200, so Honda played it safe. That's all they needed, all kinds of stories about it being a 'dangerous' bike. I think that is why is has been restricted...poor man's traction control.

Brian

I think you hit the nail on its head. :biggrin:

I have chanced the scematic a bit. I have made de de restriction switchable. Some testing learned that when using sports tires ( i do ) in cold weather or in the wet its very easy to spin the rear wheel.

Phobe had alterted the wiring near the ecu. I have made the mod near the GPSensors connector. Its just a choise

Did you see that youtube video of the kid that throws down his brand new gixxer as he guns it out of the dealership? Rear wheel just spins out like the tire was made out of plastic! Then down she goes...

I saw a video of the VFR1200 being driven by a journalist at a japanese track way back at the initial release and he spun out the rear wheel...saved it, but still... I have a feeling 'if you don't know what your doing' the torque at the rear wheel will bite you in 1st or 2nd gear in this new VFR1200, so Honda played it safe. That's all they needed, all kinds of stories about it being a 'dangerous' bike. I think that is why is has been restricted...poor man's traction control.

Brian

I think you hit the nail on its head. :biggrin:

I have derestricted the 1st and 2nd gear power limitations. I have made a simple scematic :

You will get falsh readings on the dash when 1st or 2nd gear are engaged.

I am busy decoding the serial link between ECU and dash.

To be continued

While this looks feasible in some respects, I would caution that unless you know what the I/O interface properties are, you may be violating circuit constraints which would then risk a blown sensor or worse. I offer the following scenarios:

1. Each output of the GPS is an open drain that is asserted Low (or simply grounded) for a given gear selection. Then tying 3 output wires together into one input as you have shown is a wired OR gate and will logically work.

2. Each output of the GPS is an open drain that is asserted High (or simply opened) for a given gear selection. Then tying 3 output wires together into one input as you have shown is a wired AND gate and will NOT work as all 3 outputs must be asserted High simultaneously which will never happen.

3. Each output of the GPS is a CMOS type output that is asserted High (i.e. actively driven high) for a given gear selection. Then tying 3 output wires together into one input as you have shown is a definite circuit rules violation as the output that is attempted to be driven high will be actively countered by the other two outputs which are actively driven Low, thus causing a near direct short to the supply voltage and maybe a fried GPS.

Perhaps you've already found that it does work as shown, in which case scenario #1 is most likely true. If it doesn't work, then beware of scenario #3 which could end up costing you some $$$ to fix.

Good luck in your efforts, I wish I could do the same but the DCT control needs to know the actual gear selection otherwise it would be constantly trying to downshift below third and never finding it.

Thanks for your reply.

I found from the honda scematic that if a gear is selected the ECU input is pulled to ground. ( your option 1 ) The screenshot with the color in it is a screenshot from the OEM honda scematic.

This mod is not working for a DCT.

I have added 2 scans of the OEM scematic.

schema L.pdf

schema R.pdf

I have derestricted the 1st and 2nd gear power limitations. I have made a simple scematic :

You will get falsh readings on the dash when 1st or 2nd gear are engaged.

I am busy decoding the serial link between ECU and dash.

To be continued