RADU

Winter has passed. Have you fixed the fast idle? I have a similar problem.

my shock was changed with a custom one from a cbr f4, but nevertheless i don t see the bolt on the catalizer going through the shock mount. what headers? what will leak? Nevertheless, i decided not to take of the center stand for painting it, because it appears to be very difficult. I tried to losen the exhaust mounts so i can bend the exhaust segment which covers the center stand screw, but i was not able to accomplish that. It appears i have to just take off the entire exhaust (from front cylinders to the rear wheel). It's too much of a pain to do this , except if there would be a exhaust system job scheduled (like changing or refurbish it). Thx anyway guys.

guys, anyone?

Hello guys, How do you remove/install the center stand to a 6th gen? Mine is very rusted and i want to bring it down, paint it and then put it back, but i can't see how to remove it because the exhaust pipes are very near it; there does not seem to be enough space for the screw to come out because of the exhaust. So is it possible, or for this action the exhaust pipes need to be first removed? THx

Big thanks again marooncobra. It will take a while(at least one week) until i will start the tshooting, but will definetely get back with feedback. Thanks a lot for the detailed steps. It is what i was looking for.

Thanks marooncobra, I will investigate as you say. Thermostat was changed last year because it got completelly stuck. Again i may ask, in case of wax unit change, does the procedure involve calibration of any components or is it just unscrew things, change parts and screw back? Reffering here mostly to the nut part at de end of the wax unit's piston. Thx again

Thanks Marooncobra. I now read about it and i think i understand what you are saying. Some quetions about it: -are the terms "choke" and "fast idle speed" meaning the same thing in this context? -if linkages are stuck,some wd40 on them would be enough? -is there a way to check if the wax unit (which i read it does not have any wax at all) is not working properly? I mean a simple way, not taking it of and dismantling it. -if i find out the wax unit is malfunctioning, how can i change it? Is it a simple operation, or a complicated one which presumes calibration etc? I am asking this because i know the wax unit has a nut painted with white, at the end of its piston where the linkages are and a mechanic told me that is complicated stuff which needs calibration-very hard to do (the nut and wax unit i mean).

Hi guys, I have a problem with choke on my VFR 800 VTEC 2002. When the engine is cold and also outside is not quite warm (like autumn or spring), the choke does not go on when i start the engine. I turn the ignition on, start the engine and it struggles to run , at low rpm, strong vibrations etc. After one minute or so when the engine starts to heat, the rpms increse a bit, the choke suddenly comes in (sometimes it does not at all), but that is too late; it runs for a while, then it gets off (normal behaviour, as the engine in that point gets hot enough to run normally). How can i repair this? What part is responsable for this? Can i change that part? Can i take a second hand one and install it? What code does that part have? Is it a simple operation or it requires calibration and more advanced stuff? Thanks.

Although not the topic of this discussion, why it does not apply to 8th gen? Besides the preload knob mounting bracket, the shock absorber itself fitted without any modifications, right? Can you post the thread? You mean, he can provide the schematics and the parts needed for tuning the shock and forks? After that, do it by my own?

This is exactly what i want to achieve. So the best option with the highest ratio cost/performance, is to have the stock forks and shock absorber tunned, correct? This is my biggest problem now. There surely must be mechanics or companies that can do this, but i don't know none of them. RC36Rider suggested MCT in the UK, but for the beggining i rather search for local nearby solutions; i would prefer to have this services reachable in order to make any kind of tests if required. So i am still searching now in local forums for suggestions indications. Rogue_Biker, thank you, you have explained in your previously post, EXACTLY what i want o obtain from my VFR as well.

Guys, thank you all for the suggestions here. This is exactly what i want to avoid. Since i want to invest in better suspensions, i would rather give my money on something that really worths it. Nevertheless, the budget is an important parameter here and so, i don't want to buy very expensive Ohlins or other brands; i don't say they don't worth the money but i don't want to invest in suspensions more than the motorcycle's value. Yes, i can see they also have Street Box kits, including front and rear suspension, but are really OK, or just a normal rear shock with a stiffer spring? Do they have a site to check out more details? What would be the benefit of buying a ABS version of rear shock and revalve/resprung it? Isn't it the same shock absorber as the one on the non ABS version? I know that it has preload adjustment knob, but besides this...? And also, if i would do this, wouldn't i end up in the same situation as: Simply re-springing existing suspension won't give the owner the big jump in performance they most likely had in mind either. Thank you very much. I will start and read it right away, because indeed, i need to understand better what i want and what i get. You guys all speak about Daugherty and it's not quite clear for me what do you suggest: -to send my rear shock absorber to them in order to tune it, or just ask them for a completelly new shock absorber already tailored for me? What brand would be this one? -also to buy fork suspension springs from him or to send my fork to him in order to tune it. The option of sending them my suspension for tunning and then ship it back to me would be very expensive. Does not worth it. I will send an email to them asking for the options, but first i want to be clear about your suggestions, guys. Once again, thanks a lot.

Hello, I have a 2002 VTEC VFR model and for quite a while now, i am not very satisfied with its stock suspensions. Although i have adjusted the rear suspension to make it more hard, i still have the feeling the moto feels "like a boat" if you know what i mean. The suspensions (both front and back) leave the impression that may be very soft. The feeling gets even more real when i load the motorcycle with luggages and passanger. A mechanic adviced me to install progressive springs on both front and rear suspension. My questions: 1-would progressive springs make a difference; will the suspensions get more stiff and ferm? 2-if yes, what brand to choose? 3-are there available progressive springs for rear shock as well, because i haven't seen any ? 4-my model does not have an adjustment knob for rear shock absorber (soft-hard). Is it possible to mount one of these on it, or should i get a totally new shock absorber which has this feature (very expensive)? If yes, what brand/model suggestions do you have? My purpose is to ride the motorcycle in a sport touring fashion; touring with some confort, but also in certain situations (like accelerating, braking, entering curves), i want to feel the suspensions a bit more sport, stiffer, with less "boat" effect. Thanks

Does nobody else have other suggestions?

This was the first that came in my mind also when i read this. If it is really not the case then there's a tiny possibility (i've seen it though) - the bulb itself is defective. Try to change for a new one that is doing ok in other car/motorcycle. But strange if all four are similar. Actually i just thought - are UK bulbs the same as for other EU? Perhaps they have differently placed mounting plate.. (just guessing). Look at the bulbs from outside as i just did on my bike - inside bulbs there is smth like a rod and a filament. The filament should be vertically under that rod - rod is facing up, filament down. If yours are positioned differently, try to rotate them and see if it makes some improvement. Just checked and the lights are positioned as you say; rod up, filament under it. That's what i was also saying; left-right - ok, but not in the sky. English men may ride on the other side of the road, but the beams are aiming likewise, not in the sky.

Because, at that time, i found this set of lights on ebay with a really good price and they were the only ones. I didn't have other options to choose from. The only thing was that they were UK lights and i thought to myself (and did some research on the internet) that there is no difference between them and the ones for the rest of the countries in Europe; the only probable difference i thought to be the fact that they can go with the light a bit up on the left side of the road than the right side. But yet again, that is a setting configuration. This was the first that came in my mind also when i read this. If it is really not the case then there's a tiny possibility (i've seen it though) - the bulb itself is defective. Try to change for a new one that is doing ok in other car/motorcycle. But strange if all four are similar. Actually i just thought - are UK bulbs the same as for other EU? Perhaps they have differently placed mounting plate.. (just guessing). Look at the bulbs from outside as i just did on my bike - inside bulbs there is smth like a rod and a filament. The filament should be vertically under that rod - rod is facing up, filament down. If yours are positioned differently, try to rotate them and see if it makes some improvement. Thanks for advice. i will take a look at it tomorrow.